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Yeah you are correct. It was a pretty colossal machine in it's day. It's still a pretty epic machine today. Thanks!

I'm not on the forums. Just here. I have a couple other videos on another channel called WAR offroad. Here's a couple links to those that may be interesting to you. If you browse their video library you will see even more of me offroading and showcasing the van. Thanks! th-cam.com/video/Ps2mXvE-jyo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/htSDsnsPg6k/w-d-xo.html

How did it turn out for you? -Eric

@@ericschulte1853 I'm finishing a rebuild on my 7.25 IFS front differential. Therefore, I have not driven the van, yet! Crush sleeve and backlash tomorrow....Test drive Wednesday!

That sucked! I had the front differential out and it was still a PITA! The top 15mm bolt, especially on the passenger side, was extremely challenging! Trying to get the threads started with the 1/4" plate between the frame and clam shell was tough! Just knowing that I have poly inserts and how burly they are, gives me peace of mind! I may have a noticeable vibration while at a stop light, but I also have 315K miles on the van...not sure if they are related. At the end of the day, I'm relieved that I have plenty of space between the Axle tube and Oil pan! Therefore, Success!....You did that 3 times? You are hardcore and have a lot of Patience! THANKS

The trans shim is only necessary if there are clearance issues with the front driveshaft, or if you have a new wobble on acceleration from the minor change in rear driveshaft u-joint angles. If everything feels normal, then generally I'd not be concerned with shimming the trans.

I am going to check my driveshaft angles to make sure they are in spec with an inclinometer. I feel a vibration. I rebuilt my front, rear differential and NP136 transfer case in addition to new Spicer U-Joints. Vibration could be from anywhere. ✌️

Ok, I have a vibration of some sort. If I shimmed the engine mounts 1/4”, wouldn’t logically, I need to shim the transmission mount the same? Then, check the New U-Joints from the driveshaft at my rebuilt NP 136 transfer case, driveline angle, then Pinion angle? Right? There’s a U-Joint phasing video on TH-cam from Weber University that is very informative….I’m not trying to hijack your video!…..Just chasing a vibration ✌️

@@BigZaddy2112 describe your vibration to me. During accel? All the time? High speed cruising? Just idling? If it is a driveline vibe, definitely will be exaggerated during acceleration and at higher speeds. With some good detailed descriptions I may be able to offer some analysis. I chased many different vibes in mine.

Thanks! I rode it for a while then sold it to buy something bigger. Definitely regret that!

glad to help. Mine are still trouble-free two years later!

Spot on! "20" is the designation I found stamped into the frame as well as the engine case. Further research of the specific serial number puts this Atlas at 1965. Thanks for the input.

The guy I bought it from thought is was a later Mercury, thus my confusion in the video.

I am resurrecting a very early Atlas. I bought it as a box of parts. The con rod bearings were down to the copper. The oil tank had 1/4 inch of gunk and the screens were mostly blocked. Suggest you check the oil lines etc on both bikes before trying to start, unlike those asses on TH-cam. " Will it start after 40 years!" @@ericschulte1853

I found it on ebay for a very reasonable price. it was a sound chip with speaker and was easy to wire in. Has 7 different selectable sound choices.

I was able to reuse the stock push rods, even after checking the pattern, they were spot-on. No guide plates needed either.

@@ericschulte1853 Okay, I kinda figured. Thanks for the quick reply!

pro comp 11.5" straps from Summit Racing.

Thanks-I listened to the video again and you DID mention 11.5", but I didn't hear it the first time around. Thank-you.

yeah that's the plan! Trying to instill the value of the simple things in life for sure. Thanks for watching!

Yes! It's been more than a year since I went back to rubber and added these plate spacers and they are still working perfect. I haven't had to give any thoughts to a sagging engine resting on the front axle.

@@ericschulte1853 awesome, thanks for sharing!

Sorry to pester you about this again, but one more question. I know you switched back to engine mounts with rubber bushings but it wasn't clear which trans mount you went with. Are you running the energy suspension poly mounts or did you switch to a rubber transmission mount also? Thanks a ton!

No a bother at all! Rubber trans as well.

I'll just keep this thread going in case anyone else follows along. I've been working on this job for the last few evenings and I've got the plates and new passenger side mount in but I can't get the center bolt holes to line up for the new mount on spacers on the driver's side with the stock engine brackets. I'm using two spacer plates per side like you recommended and the AC Delco rubber mounts. I noticed that you used the trans dapt ones, not sure if that would make much difference v the ones in using. With the decrease in distance between mounts that the plates create, how did you get everything to line up? Did you use the stock engine brackets or aftermarket? Thanks for helping out with this!

No, I have found that the rear is not prone to losing a spring.

New tie rod ends resolved my death wobble.

Hard for me to say. I had a 2004 WJ with 2" spacer lift but kept the stock shocks and the sways were always connected. Never had a spring pop on that one. Thanks for watching!

just added a two-year update vid! Thanks for watching

@@ericschulte1853 my hero ❤️

I have a whole video series on my channel pretty much from start-to-finish for you to get more info from. Thanks for watching!