วีดีโอ

Thanks

7/16 to remove Impellar,. Be careful not to touch capacitor or consult a professional in your area if needed.

I think it would be best if you seek help with Autopilot by phone or check the manual for how to properly get your pool ready. Rock salt is not the correct salt to be used in a pool.

@@stxlocal535 it looks like rock salt to me… I just bought the house a few months back.. it looks like it uses it because it looks like it’s going down just a little since then

The system seems to be not new by any stretch of the imagination,but the pool guy checks everything out and says that it is working the way it should

Sorry I don’t have a video on that. If you’ve lost your password, I believe you’ll need to reset the pump to factory settings and then you should be able to set a new password. Best advice for now would be to download the manual & search for a solution there.

Which controller do you have? What cell options does it have?

You just need a PTFE lube.

Awesome! Glad we saved you an unnecessary pool bill. Thanks for the comment.

I'm now in the same predicament, the Motor hums and trips the breaker, I suspect the impeller is at fault. Where did you buy all your parts?

@macferigo you can find all parts online. Download a manual so you know the part numbers. If you suspect the Impellar may be impeded by a rock or something. Unplug the pump and remove the four bolts and the motor will slide out as in the video. Remove the diffuser and inspect the Impellar & remove any debris. It could be the start capacitor as well. Be very careful with the capacitor as it contains enough power to kill. Research how to replace it before replacing it or seek professional help.

Haha! Thanks, glad the video helped you!

Hi, Are you still getting a chlorine reading when you test the water? What Salt System do you have?

I’m guessing it’s the Pentair Intellichlor?

@@stxlocal535 Chlorine is reading low. IC-15 Pentair Intellichlor. Apparently it's been discontinued and 4 years is not highly unusual for a lifespan: not the best, not the worse. A month ago I didn't tighten the bottom filter bucket drain screw - I was trying not to strip it - and I think it had a very light leak, but it was enough to reduce the jet flow. The flow light NEVER turned red so it wasn't that bad, but perhaps that contributed to it burning out? or perhaps it's because I only cleaned it every 4-5 months instead of 3 months? Our flow, the jets, are great again but we may either try replacing the flow switch (seems pointless but not expensive) or suck it up and spend the +$1,200 on the IC40.

If salt level is good and pool is fairly balanced, but no chlorine is being produced. You can try raising salt level to 4000, use chlorine tablets to raise CHL to 3 ppm for a week to see if it continues producing on its own after the week. If cell is matched to pool size, then it may be time for a new cell. 4-5 years is typical life span for cell matched to pool gallons. Larger cell will last longer since it won’t have to work as hard.

Awesome! Glad my video helped you. Have a great summer!

Actually, we did not show the blanking procedure at all in this video. Thanks. Also the steps followed in the video are the ones in the directions for the meter shown. We will have to do a new one soon with a newer model & include the blanking. Thanks

Screen Blank Breaker on? Timer on? Correct Voltage at Timer Line & Load? If yes… turn breaker & timer off and check to see if Nano was wired correctly. Check to see if correct fuse installed and not blown (fuse & wiring is different for 110v or 220v. Check that jumper wire was installed correctly. If all is correct than it’s possible the board is bad. You can always call Autopilot to walk you through troubleshooting.

Glad the video helped you!

Thank you

Thanks, glad it helped you.

Thank you!

It’s just the way they are designed. I know, it’s always an issue. Jandy valves do seem to last longer and there’s no plumbing to repair them.

Here’s another video for reference. How ball valves versus Jandy valves work th-cam.com/video/d1QrdPcQlWY/w-d-xo.html

That’s awesome! Sorry about the impeller ring some how we lost that part of the video. I’ll have to update when I can. Always keep an eye out for new leaks after seal repair. Glad you were able to save a tidy sum, while solving the problem. 👍Nice job!

Thank you, glad it helped you.

Thanks. The white impeller ring is part of the Super Pump II. It may be there to help the impeller from wobbling.

Thank you for your quick reply. I researched and found out it reduces the radial/ axial loads/ vibrations over time thus extending life of pump, just like you said. Reason why I asked was because I forgot to put it back when I swapped out motor yesterday. Went back in this am and put it back thanks to your awesome video. Thanks, my man!!! ✌🏻

@@tlc8865 You’re welcome. Glad the video helped you.

Awesome! Happy to hear our video helped you and thank you for telling us about your success.

You’re welcome. Glad we could help.

Awesome, glad to hear it!

I don’t know. You could find out by searching for the manual of the motor.

You’re welcome, glad it helped you.

If you replaced the seal and not the motor then the only thing I can think of is to check that you turned breaker & timer back on.

I read on another post that their problem was that the unit was looking for an outside timer, changing that, and changing the setting to a 1 speed pump?? I Won't be able to check anything until I get home this evening. But I also wonder if it could be a relay. The unit is acting like it's working...just never getting power to the pump.

My apologies my previous response was for someone else. If the salt system has power, then it seems you installed it correctly. If the pump isn’t coming on, that’s a separate issue. if they are wired to the same timer, make sure that the pump wiring is still connected to the timer properly. If your pump is a Intelliflo pump, check to make sure that the time is correct in the upper right hand corner and then press start on the pump at the bottom of the screen on the pump. It should say running schedule if you run your pump on manual, then pressing a number and then hitting start should start your pump.

Hey man, thanks for your response and help. Turns out it was just a bad control board. I checked everything..the fuses...relay....voltage coming into the unit and to the pump...and it was all good. We just slapped the new one on...set it and it worked instantly.

You’re welcome. Good to hear you got your pool back up and running.

No wedging required. On the AO Smith UST series motor, there is a 7/16 in nut on the end of the shaft used to stabilize the shaft, allowing you to remove the impeller. Accessing it is a careful procedure and you must stay away from or discharge the capacitor.

The motor is designed for this, there are parallel flat sides on the shaft for a 7/16 wrench. It does require some trial and error to get the angle correct, but once it's on it works well. To remove the impeller I use a rubber strap wrench, better than what was shown in the video as it can go directly on the impeller with no damage.

It’s hard to know without hearing the noise, but the fact that it stops leads me to believe it could be a rock or something stuck in the impeller. It could also be that the bearings are starting to go bad. I would check the impeller for damage or debris caught in it.

@@stxlocal535 this pattern has been going on for a month now. My gut says it is the bearings since the noise goes away after 30 minutes. I already have the replacement pump just in case I have to replace. Your video helps and makes it less intimidating

Thanks. Yes, I tried to stress that in the video. The oils from your skin and or the lube can damage the ceramic and cause it to fail.

I'm not sure how or why that advice got started. I've replaced several hundred seals working as a pool tech for the last 28 years, and have never been concerned about touching the ceramic. If it was an issue, you'd have to be equally careful to not touch the carbon ring that rides against the ceramic. I've never had a problem.

It’s in the seal manufacturer’s instructions. It states that the seal should remain packed until ready to be installed, have a clean work surface so no dirt or particles can get on it and not to touch the ceramic, so oils from your hand don’t get on the surface. They state that small particles and oils from your fingers can cause premature failure of the seal. I don’t recall stressing it in the video, but we hold the seal by the rubber only when applying lube.

7/16

Sorry I don’t know the Hayward 6060. Just enter the make and model of the pump and type seal at the end in the Google search bar and it should tell you. Or download the pump manual and check the exploded parts view.

Can I use PB Blaster silicone spray on the seal?

@@chrisconner2981 No it must be a PTFE lube.

@@stxlocal535 Well after about 3 -4 hours of searching on the interweb I found a seal kit and took your advice and fixed her up! Thank you and if anyone ever has a question on the Hayward 6060 booster pump I would be happy to help. The impeller has a slot that I used a wrench handle as a tool to put in the slot and remove it. I was lucky to remember my dad doing that on something when I was a kid watching him.

@@chrisconner2981 Glad to hear you were able to get the pump fixed up and running!

You can get one at Ace hardware. I’ll put a photo up when I get a chance.

Large angle pliers or "channel locks"

Oil Filter/ PVC Pliers, the ones i have are made by Channel Lock. They work great for unions, male adapters & stuck impeller removal.

I use a rubber strap wrench, it can go right on the impeller without any concerns of damaging it.

With pump off, If you are isolating the pump by closing the intake and return valves before opening pump lid to clean or replace basket, then no significant air should be in the pump/ system that would need to be cleared, but you can always bleed the any air just to be safe. Make sure to put all valves back in normal operating positions before restarting pump.

Thank you!

Thank you for the awesome comment!

Thanks! Happy to know it helped.

Glad our video helped you! Thanks for your comment.

The loud noise means the bearings are bad. If there’s a shop near you that will replace the bearings that may be a cheaper fix. Just check price for bearings vs. motor replacement.

It’s recommended in the manual to use a 7/16 open ended wrench to steady the shaft for impeller removal. There are many parts easily damaged near the shaft, which may cause an electrical fire or motor failure.

I used a rubber strap wrench worked great

Awesome! Glad to have saved you an afternoon! Thanks for sharing your success with us.

Thank you! Happy to hear our video helped you get your pool pump by up and running.

In the video the pipe with the red tape goes the main drain of the pool. We label our pipes with different colors.

Thank you, I’m glad our video helped you.

It’s the pump motor! Sorry to hear that, hopefully it will die soon and they’ll have to replace it.

Camera died on this shoot so I had to use previous footage to make it useable. Hope it was helpful to you.

@@stxlocal535 thanks for the reply

Depends on the price of the motor & seal. A single speed pump motor replacement with an easy swap usually runs around. $400, including seal and gaskets and 1 hour labor. However prices on pool products keep going up every month.