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I enjoyed your video very much. Since you offered I just gutted a house that my ex bought and found that the external walls have no insulation (just plain plywood.) even though it was cladded with brand new boards. I'm thinking of ripping the cladding and doing it properly with the zip system. am I making a mistake?

I hope he was thanking Jesus when he said that. Glad you got better.

booo

This is CLICKBAIT!!

Having the extra insulation in the garage will be worth it in the long run. When your building a house that will be around for decades, it is worth it. Looks like this is someplace that will get cold and the garage will be cold. The big difference is the summer time when the sun is beating on the side of the house. You don't want your garage to be a sauna. I live in an expensive house and the garage is way too hot in the late afternoon when the west sun is beating down.

Confused why a lot of their headers don't have jack studs... it's like they are held in place by nails from the other side of the king stud.

In Montana qe extreme weather. Sumner and winter. Zip system is a no go here. They use it but you should use 1/2 osb then cover it with 1/2 foam. That actually helps everywhere if you think about it. Use silicone sealing up the edges before sheathing it. Anything to seal that up is better.

There is ZERO reason to cut it in two pieces!

Is that caulk or spray foam to seal top amd bottom plates?

It doesn’t take long to get proficient at flashing the entire sill with one long piece of flashing rather than two and you eliminate the risk of a bird’s eye at the overlap. You can see it done this way in the how-to video on Huber’s website (the manufacturer of Zip products). My preferred method, however, is to flash only the corners with the stretch tape (4-6” onto the sill and 4-6” up the jamb sides) and then use the regular Zip flashing tape (comes in rolls with no backing to peel off) across the length of the sill and a couple inches beyond on either side, and then up both sides overlapping the sill flashing tape and extending a couple inches beyond the head of the opening (per the Huber installation video and elsewhere on TH-cam). There are two reasons I like this option: 1) the Huber stretch tape can be difficult to handle as you try and remove the backing (as you can see in this video) and doing only the corners in stretch tape is much more manageable, especially with larger window openings; and 2) the stretch tape is much more expensive than the regular flashing tape so you can reduce material costs with this method. As near as I can tell, the time required for each method is about the same-particularly with a bit of practice-so the labor costs are about a wash. That said, I think contractors should choose the method that works best for you and your crew and that you feel most confident in providing protection from leaks. DIYers might want to use my preferred method because your labor costs are zero and you’ll see a savings in material costs. Just DON’T put a seam in the middle of the sill as in this video as that is the most vulnerable part of the entire window assembly. You always want to “shingle” the tape by installing from the bottom up wherever possible and avoid seams or joints as much as possible-not just at the windows but for the entire wall surface.

That title is doing some lifting the video isnt keeping up with,

Looks like you glued the zip panels together. What did you use?

On the Rockwool, I installed 12 years ago in my house and I like it. Back then it was available and I even got the ginormous ones for the attic. Now it's slim pickens and Lowes just raised the price of the R15 from $58 a bag to $79 (2/24). Currently, for supply reasons and cost, I'm mixing Johns Manville mineral wool for the concrete walls, Knauf fiberglass everywhere else, and cellulose for the attic and the space above the garage where the living space is above. On that note, the basc gov site recommends insulation touching the floor above and the air gap toward the garage, but the building science site says the opposite will provide a warmer floor above. I'm going with the latter, plus it's easier for me. Seal the rim and then blow in about 10 inches of cellulose and call it good. There is also a guy on YT who somehow runs a vent from the duct into that space to heat it.

why not to use Rockwall ins. as already pay extra for R-Zip sheet. Mineral wool give you better R value and also soundproofing

Thank you for sharing. Appreciate you including such details. Could you share what your target ACH50 is for the air sealing? And are you able to share any tested outcomes (whether at the rough-in stage or after drywall)?

Is vapor barrier tape not needed on the horizontal seams between faced batts?

Y’all are doing a great job. But you might want to invest in a body mic so we can actually hear what you’re saying. EDIT: I see you have a mic on, but is it working? You’re voice gets louder as the camera gets closer to you and quieter as you turn your back or walk away. That makes me think the body mic isn’t working and only the camera mic is.

Does that R sheathing have a radiant barrier on it?.

spraying between studs and plates must be a joke. You air seal a building from exterior. Use liquid applied air/water barrier on top of the zip sheathing. How do you even install drywall with all that spray foam sticking out. Do your drywallers shave them off? If so your so called seal is gone because that spray foam doesn't expand into the stud. Such silly building practices.

Just curious. At 2:42 the beam you were standing about underneath, was not setting directly on a corresponding built up column. What am I missing?

What flashing did you use?

Great video. My comment is not about your video but about the codes. So we are required to make a house airtight by code, then we have to make a hole in the house and run an exhaust fan continuously to bring in fresh air by code? What am I missing because that sounds like insanity?

not worth it particularly considering the insulation should actually go on the outside. backwards product.

How long does it take and how much does it cost?

I am redoing a brick home in DESOTO, TX ... is a ZIP system good for the outside

Thermal breaks are required by IRC and codes now. Usually min is R5 on the exterior, You could have gotten sheets of polyiso + zip for less than the ZIP R which is what I'm doing.

The question is in the end is it worth it. Up front no but long run yes.

how fire resistant is the foam backing

You can't know if it was worth it until the house is done,can't the occupants experience a hot summer and a cold winter.

I don't care about the layout. talk about zip r

Former Landscape Architect. Grading is the most overlooked part of any construction project. This includes; Cut / Fill, Drainage, Utility Trenches, Roads for Cars, Sidewalks for People, etc. Do it wrong and if discovered later in Project, can be very expensive to fix. How do you fix it when a building is sitting on it now? Didn't mention if Geotech Fabrics were called for. They can be used to spread settlement over a larger area. They can also be used to spread a load over a wider area. Were Pilings and Ground Beams considered. This can be used on sites with wet soil conditions. It doesn't require 4 plus feet of compacted engineered aggregate. Those are usually less excessive options on larger grading projects and reduce amount of material being brought to site. For a small residential project, adding engineered aggregate is probably best option.

How do you counter flash at the bottom of flashing is stuck on sheathing? Should you have placed paper under it?

Cost of material for LP smart side ?

Nice job are the window extensions factory installed by Anderson ? What dimension are the extensions assuming you have 2x6 walls ?

Lighting on the stairs is spot on !

Diggin the Bronze nice build thank you !

Owner building and I appreciate the information your sharing it’s going to be a wild ride !

Cost to correct unbuildable soil?

Question: I understand it depends on a host of factors, but just ballpark, what is the cost of a poured concrete shell (not ICF) verses a high performance framed shell using 2x6s per linear foot of wall?

OK, I want to see an $80 bracket. Any links?

Terrible audio...

Polyurethane insulation?

I'm planning to build a custom home in Maryland, climate zone 4. I'm planning to do continuous insulation and trying to decide between Zip R-6 vs regular OSB+1" polyiso as separate materials. Although the latter would probably be cheaper in material costs having to go around the house twice with the additional labor costs would likely make the total costs a wash. Was wondering what you thought? Thanks.

Does it mess folks up with hanging rock? Do they come back and shave the foam down?

whats that sealing the zip r together on the back?

Great job smart man 👍👍👍

We provide dumpsters for production builders in our area and we see "homeowners trash/trash from somewhere else" all the time. We have a sign that says there is a $500 fee on our dumpsters but it doesn't deter them. What most of our builders are doing now, is putting up cameras at the main entrance/exit to catch them. You may be able to put something like that up and put a sign up stating your on camera to let them know. Crazy thing I see lately, is a framing dumpster swap was called in because it was full--when we arrived it was half full with little lumber in it due to people coming and taking it out of the dumpster. 😄

Curious why you did 2 seperate pieces instead of 1 piece all the way across? Learning and have seen it done in 1 piece but not 2 and did not know if there was a reason for it other than being easier? Thanks

There is a a much easier way to build coffers like that using 7/16 osb. Double up sheets on floor draw pattern cut it out lift directly up nail to truss then blocking for depth then lift other cutout directly up and nail to blocking

On air sealing details: Once sheetrock is put onto those foam air seal spots its toast. Wouldn't using silicone have made more sense?