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4 to 7 feet

Yep first time double hook-ups on Patrick's trilogy of terror!

No problem 👍

Me to

Wym the battery was the problem??

Philly dee

Yes

If still no start that mean your ecm control module is dropping ground voltag

I’ve only ever heard/done it as the big 3 hahah

you ever figured this out? i swapped my ecm thinking that’s what it was broke down before but it was a broke wire and now that it runs it does this. under full throttle it’ll bog and thsn finally say reduced engine power but under slight acceleration it does fine. it blows my mind literally happened on the way home from gettin the wire fixed.

@@nate.hanlon Yes i did it was the Ground on the drivers side back against the Firewall its just a short ground wire i could not get it broke loose so i just ran another heavy duty Red wire from the Alternator bracket back into the firewall,But your problem sounds like you have Carbon build up on your throttle body Butterfly or maybe a weak fuel pump i know one thing buying parts for these pickups sure isn't cheap good luck.

@@missourimule2827 i’m afraid ima have to check all the wires again from checking them from before to find the broken wire. so there’s that ground wire and another one correct ?

@@missourimule2827 and i’ve already cleaned the throttle body and the fuel pump seems to be good makes the noise everytime i crank it lmao. maybe could be from where we tried to crank it a few times and it wouldn’t start maybe it wore the pump out but i doubt it.

Looks to be early 2000 Suburban or Tahoe

Exactly

Yes it was

I think what he is thinking is connect everything directly to the battery. Both wires in the back. The passenger side as you mentioned is critical. I have that one spliced and connected back to the ground at the firewall. And the firewall is grounded direclty to the battery and the engine. Over kill likley but if it breaks off at the back of the engine like many have experienced, I am still grounded. Drivers side is odd to me but was the one that was very corroded at the firewall. It appears this wire simply grounds to the engine block (negative). So essentially I have a redundant ground to the engine block plus I took another wire from the firewall and grounded it to the battery as well. Little to no chance of losing a ground. Overkill but man this thing is sensitive. My battery negative terminal on one of my 03's came slightly lose and "reduced... " came on. Thankfully it was the battery terminal.

Really good point. Looking under the hood just now, I can't think of a reason why not and it would be cleaner. Didn't think it through. Brain fog obviously. Passenger side ground needs to be grounded well and I would still be sure the engine block is grounded as well. If you do this with the thicker wire, it may take some finegaling to bolt it to the negative on the battery. There is not much room. I had to get a larger bolt for one of mine as it came loose. If you don't bolt it tight it will come loose and momentarily disconnect triggering "reduced engine power" as well. Thanks for addition. Need to make a better video now. :) Or you should make one to help others once u are done.

@@2009adtommy No, please you make the video's it just occurred to me as I just had this problem and the battery negative would be the best ground. Ps I squirted WD40 on the inside of the plug on the left side of the throttle body.

Do you have a "reduced engine power" warning? Other than max 40mph. What other symptoms do you have. Don't worry these engines are simple. Also what year? Do you have a cable throttle?

I know what you are saying but these grounds I made are now easy to get to and when corroded, I can easily remove and clean. Don't know why GM decided to hide the grounds in the back of the engine where one of them is nearly impossible to reach. Very strange to me. In any case I wouldn't discourage this repair as these corrections have solved both my 2003 Tahoe issues. I have an outboard with a similar grounding problem and it is a 1 hour job minimum to remove connections (and a plate) to clean at the connectors and the block. So I did the same. I brought the ground to a very accessible location for the next inevitable time that I will have to clean it again. I have noticed on all my vehicles, a lot of the problems are connection issues and mostly the grounds getting corroded. So if you want to do it as from factory feel free. But I believe this not only a design error as one of them often breaks in the back of the engine but for the purpose of anesthetics/or GM ease, GM foolishly hid these connections in very difficult to reach places.

@@2009adtommy did you ever get it fixed

I am listening and willing to learn. Give me a web link regarding max 18 inch ground wire and I will post it. Remember don't do what I do! 🙂 I think if you brought it back to original condition, you can go worry free for another 100k miles. But nevertheless send me the link. Never heard of this before.

I would clean it and leave it attached.

Yes only because that large ground at the firewall is connected to the back of the engine which I can't reach to clean. Also the ground at the firewall was very corroded. So I grounded it to the front of the engine which I can reach. I even took a wire from the firewall to the ground at the battery for redundancy. Over kill I know but have not had a problem in 3 or 4 years. It is all about the grounds at the back of the engine, under the car under the drivers seat, the throttle body, gas pedal sensor and the wiring harness at the throttle body. I changed them all but what really did it was the grounds. The slightest variation cause a fault. I just had a reduced engine light come on and I was so annoyed and it turned out that the ground at the battery was loose. Grounds are the key.