วีดีโอ

Wow... 😮 SAFETY FIRST ( N O T ! ! ! 😂😂😂😂😂 )

Dang, save some air for the rest of us. (Intro)

Cheers mate, appreciated! Thanks for uploading, shout out to your "new old guy". He seems to have done a few of these before, and even without special tooling, he did alright without damaging the seal at installation

Thanks for posting this tutorial. Anyone know the torque spec?

What was the reason for changing this did u have an esc inoperable code?

thank you so much! super helpful 😊

Great video!

Don't use those after market spyder injectors, there junk, go with oem or original.

Bonjour, Où je peux trouver cette pièce pour la changer svp. Merci

Thank you so much for one of the very very very few videos on this issue, my water pump was going out and making the engine sound like slight knocking, but after diagnosing the issue to the water pump, I used this video as a guide and it was very helpful

Fantastic video thank you

Thanks for posting. I couldn't find a video that showed where the third sensor was located. A pain to get to but I did it. 😀👍

Dang. Didn't work for me. Nothing is...

Why not put a c clamp to push piston in? Turn it the opposite way to where the handle is on the back of caliper where brake line is.

Lucas in the winter is crazy thick. It can plug up filters when it’s cold and take a bit to heat up and flow. No thanks.

Going to do this job in my garage on jack stands. Wish me luck.

I replaced the same parts and now they make a weird whining noise every time I let go the brake pedal, does anyone knows why?

I just want to thank you !!! your video was perfect…. I did exactly what you did and I got the job done correctly. What a pain in the neck

Cool tutorial!! Thanks 😊

Thank you

Like from the top???

Isnt there a easier way!!??

The plug wire tho...

Thanks. Did it on Panda (pretty same as 500) and all you need is to loose engine mount (in UK drivers side) and lift engine as far as it goes, you can get alternator into place above the halfshaft - its a bit tricky but it work. The top bolt is bigger challenge 😁 mirror and small ratchet set could help. Mine 120A alternator died at approx 40k miles/5 years ☹️

"I don't have a ball joint tool" hits the 1 minute mark.

Part #?

if you go a little slower with the old boot removal. you can take the outer rubber sleeve off (it's actually two pieces, a thin rubber cap, and the sleeve), then while holding it firmly in a vice or clamped to something - just tap the metal bracket with a hammer or heavy wrench and it should come off easily. The lower boot/bump stop has a yellow foam stop at the top that needs to push fit into the bottom of the metal bracket when it's installed - it's flared to keep it into the metal bracket. Otherwise, it flops around. If you have some strength to push it up and a lever bar to keep it in position while you thread the lower bolt in by hand once it's up into the lower bracket, You don't even need to put the vehicle on the lift or even jack it up to replace these! Honda Quote: $738, Shock ea $275-ish Shocks: KYB 3440039 shocks Rock Auto $122.

it sucks that it's 199 usd in Australia it's 333 usd

Mine has no pressure anymore turns on, gets to the green but no pressure

is it intermediate difficulty replacing transmission?

same for a 2000 savana 3500?

If their is a seal there why would you need rtv?

Thank you ❤

Very informative I will be ordering these

Yeah go ahead and put a gouge on the aluminum block so it can leak oil again 🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks for the clear video, about to give it a shot!

I was going say “look kids no batteries required,,,put he has one power tool 😢😢after all

If you don't have a tool (even homemade) to push the seal in then you should just keep the old seal. There is no way that went in without damage

Thanks, easily done. I could not get the 'boot assembly' off of my shocks, I had to remove the rubber boot to get to the metal stopper assembly inside and tap it with a hammer to get it to come off. Even though I live in California there was a bit of corrosion holding it firm. After that mine was exactly as yours. Thanks again.

My 2012 fusion was leaking antifreeze inside the passenger side, I bypassed the heater core hoses in the front under the hood. I know I don't have heater anymore but the leak stopped. Is the heater core needs to be replaced, 2012 Ford fusion SE 2.5

quick and easy if you don't live in my shitty country where everything breaks and both lower bolts did right with the block

Thanks!

Nothing about this looked easy. and quick

Any easier on the two cylinder twinair ?

Thanks for the video! For those wondering, the clip comes out with some needle nose pliers on either side. Super easy plug & play, definitely worth the time to save some money.

Mine is flashing even without pressing the reset button. When I hold the button for several seconds, it stops flashing and turns solid. I just got the car and the dealership has the back tires at 40 PSI, so that's likely what caused the issue

Did you have to discharge the A/C system when replacing the alternator? Edit: Looks like you were able to unbolt the compressor and disconnect one of the brackets holding the A/C line...but I just wanted to check and make sure it was/can be done without discharging/recharging the A/C system, as I have the same car (but a different year--mine is a 2015 200, 3.6L) and wanted to know what all is involved with alternator replacement. Good job!! It seems like the engineers go out of their way to pack as much as they can into the tiniest space possible, without considering access to components that are commonly replaced. Thanks for the video!

Do you know where the drain actually connects? I have the same issue on the drivers side, took the A frame covers off and the headliner, turns out the previous owner has disconnected the drain hose and I have no idea how to reconnect it? Any suggestions? Thanks

Never ever put anything on the outside of a seal. It's friction fitted.

Maybe he needs to steam clean the hair off his head then he would be Mr.Clean certified for this review.