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From the research I've done, it does seem to be common, yes. The Hyundai Sonata's were known for having wonky electronics. Especially with the MAP sensor. Some individuals even went to extreme lengths to remove the code with no luck. Just make sure that the engine code is actually for the MAP sensor before doing any work.

I couldn't imagine!

@@Kaswells_Kappa I retired from that world.

Sounds complicated

@Kaswells_Kappa a 2 hour job took 3 hours of QA paperwork

It seems like that item is no longer available. I can do some research for you if you'd like to have that specific yellow stitch boot, but there are other colors available as well, such as white, red, and black. I believe i paid about $90 after shipping but prices have basically doubled now. Those specific ones are about $180 before shipping it looks like. As far as the bezel you mentioned. The frame does come preattatched, but the bezel (the chrome piece, not to be confused with the frame) needs to be transfered from the old one to the new one as in the video. If you have anymore questions please let me know, and I hope this helps!

Anytime! No resetting is needed, just plug-n-play. If you feel the need to reset the computer by unplugging the battery, then you are more than welcome to do so. It won't hurt anything.

Thanks for getting back to me. I can pick on up on line for 40 Bux They didn't want to go through the hassle if you have to reset the computer. Somebody said you had to reset the computer if you pull out the o2 sensor If You Don't reset the computer then your car may burn more fuel or idle rough

Absolutely! Well, it can help to reset the tables quicker, yes. When it's reset, it creates new tables and tries to relearn everything, new sensors and old, to tie it all together to get the perfect ratio. Now, is it necessary, not really. The ECM will learn everything and adjust the ratios without resetting everything as well. So, either way will get you there, honestly. However, if you had an engine code for the O2 sensor, then yes, definitely reset. The code won't clear otherwise. If not, then i honestly wouldn't worry about it unless the engine ran horribly. I didn't reset mine, and it's been working great with no issues. Hope this helps!

You are correct. It seems I am wrong in saying it helps with conductivity. It's clear I'll have to further educate myself on this specific topic. I'll have to see if i can cut that from the video smoothly later on to make sure others aren't convinced of this as well. Thank you.

@@Kaswells_Kappa You might remember me from other videos and comments, I really do like your videos and you helped me A LOT with my Opel GT, your videos are always on point, no bs and what I especially like is that you torque everything to specs! - However, we all make mistakes, so don't worry and keep up the good work! PS.: What I like to do on spark plug changes is to put the dialectric grease on the ceramic of the spark plug, with a q-tip and leave the boot as is; that way I ensure that no grease gets on the spark plug metal while inserting the ignition coil.

I do, yes! Don't worry, I know i make plenty of mistakes, and there are plenty of things I miss. That's just part of it, and I'll never have a single video where everything either goes to plan or touches every single subject perfectly. But that's also just part of the process of learning and gaining experience. And now, because of you, I've learned something new and have inspired me to go study another topic for the interest of others. So thank you!

You're the first person I've ever heard say that

Are we referring to what Spreedated has said or me?

Absolutely, and you aren't kidding! With how they managed to create a system that makes sure it can only be filled in a very specific way, I'm not sure whether to call them dumb or smart.

Thank you, Flow, and I apologize for the late response. It's been pretty busy. I really did like the hamburger style, BUT with how I wanted to design the website, it seems that I needed to try something different. As far as that opacity rule, I believe it may have been a technical error in translation from wix to Firefox. Other browsers seemed fine, but Firefox proved to have other underlying issues on top of the hamburger menu as well. So I'm trying a different type of directory where it's listed out on the main page. Hopefully, it works out. This way, I also have the Google Drive availability too. But it may change again as I'm trying to narrow down styles and get the best optimization for the website.

Thank you for the tips and the notes, Flow. Maybe one day I'll get to making a video of removing the Intake Manifold, but as of right now, it's not in the plan, stan. If i ever do it, you can be sure to see a video of it, though. As far as the air filter, I did make one a LONG time ago. It's one of my first videos, actually. However, it's old, outdated and I need to make a new one. I'll be producing one for the Solstice here soon, hopefully, but I have other videos in the works at the moment that are soaking up my time. Coilovers are no joke, lol *cough cough*.

Howdy! First off, I sincerely apologize for the late response. It's been a busy few days, and I've been slowly replying to comments as I go. I specifically waited to answer yours until I could give a thorough answer. So, to start simple, yes, it could easily be the oxygen sensor. Even when referencing replacements, the service manual only suggests replacing the O2 sensors. Granted, it could still be caused by an outside source, but with this type of DTC, the ECM purposefully tries to increase the fuel trim from lean to rich to see if the O2 Sensor is reading properly. This DTC says it did not. So the likely culprit is that either your O2 sensor is worn out and needs to be replaced, or it has been contaminated. The service manual states that silicon-based products can contaminate the O2 sensor. Second, it was pretty tough, yeah. I had to pretty much brace myself against the front tire and push off of it to give myself enough oompf. I'm a small guy, so it took a bit, haha. You are correct. I didn't heat it up much. If heated up more, it may have broken loose much easier, but I was more worried about thread stripping, so I just warmed it up instead of getting it to operating temperature. Third, BUY OEM PARTS. OEM Parts (ACDelco & GM) are always gonna be the go-to unless it's a reputable company that makes parts that are either on par or exceed the industry standards. I bought a GM brand through eBay to save some cash, but I would definitely buy an OE brand. Other brands are either lesser quality or just won't work right. This was the first time I've replaced this part on my Cobalt as well. Lil bit more mileage, 180,000, but each situation is different. Every vehicle has gone through different things. I like to always say the parts that outlast the others were made on a Thursday. The ones that crap out early were made on a Tuesday, haha. Anyway, I hope this answers all your questions and gets you where you need to be. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Once again, I apologize for the late response!

I love them! It brings some color to the engine bay. I had to replace the worm drive clamps with t-bolt clamps due to the worm drive slots eating into the silicone. T-bolt is also more secure and can tighten down tighter.

Thank you! They make everything so much easier. Most kappa owners will get removable pucks. I prefer these as they stick and stay. Don't have to drag them out every time I need to lift the car.

@@Kaswells_Kappa where did you get them... I've never seen them before.

@SeanPamer I bought them from DDMWorks. They sell a silicone kit that comes in yellow, red, or black. Since my car is yellow, it was the obvious choice! I'll provide a link for you down below. Link: www.ddmworks.com/Silicone-Coolant-Kit-for-Solstice-Sky-by-DDMWorks_p_710.html

@Kaswells_Kappa i was inquiring about the pucks... where did you get those at?

Right, sorry. You have two separate comments on this video, so I must have thought you were referring to the coolant hoses.. The lift pucks are actually designed for a BMW E36. I usually buy mine off of eBay for cheap. Just type in BMW E36 Jack Pucks, and they'll come right up!

There's a reason they're there! No guess work involved. Just torque to spec, then leave!

Anytime, good luck!

Kenneth. I'm not sure where the rest of your comments went concerning the problem with your misfire code, so I'm replying to you here. Sorry for the late reply Kenneth, trying to respond to comments when I can. It's been pretty busy Alright, well, if you're still getting a code after that, I would be more inclined to study the Kappa, note when the code turns on and how the car acts over the next few days. I would also ask myself: - Does it run rough? - is it rough while driving or at idle? - is there excessive vibrationa nywhere? If so, where at? - does the engine shake more than it should? - does the car have a really rough ride? - does the engine shake excessively while revving in park? - does the harmonic balancer shake excessively? I would be sure to note every little detail. Make sure you soak everything in and take a good look. Listen to how the engine sounds. Sometimes codes are like rabbits. You gotta chase them down.

@Kaswells_Kappa great advice, I sure appreciate the response. Vehicle runs perfectly fine. I'm doing some further troubleshooting. I'll be sure to share my findings.

Absolutely. Keep me updated on what you find. I'd like to know what's going on. I'd love to be able to help more as well, but there's only sp much you can do through a screen.

@Kaswells_Kappa totally agree and thank you so much for your help. You've been EXTREMELY helpful

Thank you, I do what I can and struggle to figure things out so that you guys don't have to! I thought of doing this, but I figured there would ALWAYS be a bit of oil left in the engine. So I just take care of the bottom all at once, then the top all at once. Saves my back too!

Well, with how the hood is angled when it's fully extended. It's hard to really use anything to hold the hood up. So it's a tricky process.

Believe it or not. I have a few items with a simplified logo on it, haha. I have a shirt, a mouse pad, and a coffee mug. I've been looking at getting some oil change stickers for all the vehicles I do maintenance on. But I'm still looking for a good vendor.

Absolutely, thank you so much!

It's good to know there's a clear type seal for the Tan Tops. Black isn't a good color for them. As for the title, as much as I would love to, I simply don't think I should. Would I love to include this for every convertible vehicle? Absolutely. But this video is specifically meant for the Kappas, and not every procedure is the same for other vehicles. So, for simplicity, I believe this is the best title! But thank you, though. I actually encourage commentary like this!

So the way DOT works is the higher the number, the higher the boiling point. So DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. If a vehicle requires DOT 3, it can also take DOT 4. But if a vehicle requires DOT 4, it can not take DOT 3. If you put DOT 3 in a DOT 4 vehicle, the brake fluid will boil and burn inside the brake lines. This, in turn, can create bubbles in the brake line or even cause your pedal can go to the floor. A dangerous situation. So, in short, you can always go up in number. But you can't go down.

Some of these I still gotta find. And I haven't really gotten around to looking at some of the arrows yet. I've been replacing the necessary stuff first. THEN, we can get to the cosmetics 😂

@@Kaswells_Kappa no problem! Just busting your chops!😂😂😂😂😂

I figured you were, haha. Have a lot on the list, but I'll get to it eventually! 🤣🫡

Just bought a factory type rear spoiler for my 08 N/A base and have no idea how to get behind the area where the screws go to attach it, directions are for a Honda ! Can you give me any suggestions??

Off the top of my head, no. I'll have to check and see if the service manual says anything when I get home, I'm pretty sure it does. It won't be until later, though, so you'll have to just sit tight until then. Unless i find something in the meantime

Ha! I commented before watching. I’ll need to try it your way.

Ha!! Well, there ya go! Didn't even have to say a thing. That's awesome. Yeah, give it a try. It helps to put more of a leverage on it as well without tearing the console up. These things are fragile enough as it is.

What happened to the Saturn sky?

Still got it! Just needs an oil change, so I've let it sit while I work on the Solstice. The next thing I need to do is suspension, which is a big replacement, so I've been waiting until the temperature lowers, and I can spend as much time as I need on it

I do not unfortunately. This is a common problem, however. Most individuals get some type of pic with a 90° bend to move the bar holding the flaps down. I'd have to refer you to one of the forums and search for stuck trunk. They should have plenty of threads on how to unstick it. I'll provide you with links to them below. If I happen to get time to find one myself for you, then I'll post a link to that. Good luck. Links: Skyroadster.com Solsticeforum.com

Of course, it's been my pleasure to do so, and not everyone can afford the time or the luxury of being a full-time mechanic. Heck, even I'm not one. This is just a hobby! So I try to do what others can't and try to fill in that gap for them. I do plan on doing them in the future, but I've been waiting to do it since a procedure such as the tranny fluid has to be done a very specific way. And, until recently, I didn't have the right resources. So because of this, I've been waiting until I can do it right. If I misstep, it could or can be catastrophic for others. But, yes, I do plan on visiting those procedure s!

On your Kappa??

@Kaswells_Kappa no, my previous car was a Honda Fit and they stroked me a check for compensation and that's how I ended up getting myself this sky

Well, the Sky's are better by far anyway. Sounds like they did you a favor! Still, it sucks they did that to you. That's why I only work on my cars.

@Kaswells_Kappa yeah true. They really did do me a huge favor. Now I just hope the dealership can figure out what's going on with all of the misfire issues it's been experiencing

Hopeful they will. I know some can be fidgety. Especially with these older vehicles

It is fairly common nowadays. Especially since these cars are 15+ years old. Plastic gets brittle. Easily replaceable.

@@Kaswells_Kappa love your channel! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences

Absolutely! Knowledge is power

For battery terminals, you have both aftermarket and OEM options. For aftermarket, Dorman is a great option and can typically be purchased through autozone. For OEM, I typically use HyundaiPartsDeal.com. I'll provide the part numbers for both below. Hope this helps! Dorman: Positive - 926-496 Negative - 926-497 OEM / Hyundai: Positive - 91860-2F020 (Part Code 91860T) Negative - 91860-2F030 (Part Code 91861B) Quick Note. The OEM positive terminal for the Santa Fe is not listed through dealership sites. However, the part is still available, and will tell you this will not fit and that it is for a Sonota Hybrid. This is not true. This part was designed to fit MANY vehicles with varying displacements and power outputs. I will also provide you with a link to eBay, which has both OEM terminals for cheap. Something to also think of. Hyundai used two iterations of battery terminals for the Santa Fe. The parts given jere are for the newest iteration. Good luck! eBay Link: www.ebay.com/itm/324715888518?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=njQQK8YgRJW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=HKi0iOlVTcG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You're so welcome! I agree with you. I may have only one of my Kappa's for a little over 4 to 5 years now, but I have definitely seen and felt the presence of the enthusiasm for this community fade away. Even the Skyroadster forum isn't quite as active as it used to be. All I typically see are for sale or parts wanted posts. The Solstice forum is still quite active, though. The fact that I couldn't find any videos for replacements or even a good quality video for that matter for some procedures was the main drive for starting this channel. Seems like others enjoy it! Don't worry, there'll be more to come. That's for sure! I've even started trying some new things to make the channel better as well! So stay tuned! Once again, thank you so much!

You're darn right! I can't stand those things! Drive me nuts! Absolutely, I'll be monitoring everything and watching how they run overtime

Honestly, I thought about doing so. But I wasn't completely sure if it was a critical calibrated deal like the crankshaft position sensor. I SHOULD have looked it up, but with how little time I've had recently, I cut a corner. When I make the Saturn Sky version I'll definitely include it and include the Service Manual page for them. Thank you!

@Kaswells_Kappa Also, those sound dampener covers are only on the turbos, not on the NA engines. Oh... and I hate those "Christmas tree" things too. 😒

Now THAT I didn't know. Explains why it's nowhere to be found on GM's catalogs. Spent a lot of time trying to figure that out. After taking this one off the Solstice, I'm more tempted to remove it from my Sky as well. DDMWorks Coil Covers are looking really nice right now.. I cant STAND them! I know they're actually called clips, but I can't help but see a Christmas tree. So that's what they are now.

Anytime bro, that's what these videos are for. To help you and then spread the knowledge!

Not to hard at all! You're very welcome!

These were purchased with this very thought in mind. The price was the main domino for this decision. Not only is it a tad cheaper, they look stylish compared to the OEM's dulled look. So it helps to dress up the engine a bit. Now, whether it actually impacts anything, I honestly believe it may only be on par with OEM standards. BUT, if the details say otherwise, then I will be impressed and share what I've found.

You already know it! 👌🏻

I agree. The Sky's interior is definitely nicer and has more of a sporty feel to it. That is what I do like. However, since the sky's interior doesn't have the handle, I could see a dealer arguing sonce there's no safety handle needed there, then it must not really affect safety much for the Solstice. On top of this, dealers usually sell used vehicles under a "AS IS" label. This means that if something was broken and you agreed to purchase it as it was, then they are not liable for any damages you find.

But if it’s a “safety issue” you can leverage that when it aimed to them replacing/repairing it… the “As-Is no warranty” document doesn’t hold a lot of weight when it comes to “gradual safety concerns” if they’re minuscule in nature or not. We had a dealership twice and the state laws are huge when it comes to safety regardless if it’s ridiculous or not. Good luck and I can’t wait to see more videos of the Sky and Solstice!

You make a good point. I'll have to consider it. But that's also if the part is still available. I've already had a dealership screw up a repair they had to do on my Sky, and now my fender doesn't sit right. I try to stay AWAY from dealerships, but we'll see. It's another video if I do it myself! Thank you so much h, and don't worry there will be plenty to come!

Not to my knowledge, no. What most of the Kappa community has done, including myself, is purchase an aftermarket unit along with the necessary accessories to replace the radio. Crutchfield can give you everything you need, including harnesses and mounts, to ease the replacement. Most of the newer GM vehicles also use different software to communicate with its systems. Examples of this include GD2S, which was implemented sometime 2010-2013 depending on the vehicle. And have switched once again to a software called Ultifi. Granted, you could buy a harness to transfer said data between the new radio and the vehicle like most aftermarket radios. The only issue would be to find or craft this harness to do so. The easiest and simplest way everyone has found is to just buy what is already available. Most aftermarket radios have many functionalities nowadays and can tack all minds of data if set up right. This includes Bluetooth, GPS, Phone Connectionality between IPhone and Android, and much more. I prefer Pioneer but others have also used Kenwood, Sony, Alpine, and JVC. I hope this helps!

@@Kaswells_Kappa Thank you so much.I really appreciate it

Absolutely! You're very welcome!

@@Kaswells_Kappa I just uploaded a video of the one we picked up yesterday. It's really clean!

You aren't kidding! That's a clean ride! Makes me want to scrub my engine bay down, looking at it! I also see that original wind restrictor! Those are hard to come by! Good find indeed. Congrats!

I went ahead and did mine. I have a coleman mug that would cause the cup itself to come out. Other than that, yes the clips do hold everything in well.

Absolutely! You are so welcome!

I try to be as detailed yet simplistic as possible for others to understand easily. Kaswell

Absolutely! The early stages include your vehicle idling rougher than usual. As it gets worse, you could experience misfires. You typically replace them when you replace spark plugs, but I tend to replace them when the engine starts to idle rough. Even then, coil packs tend to last a long while as well.

@@Kaswells_Kappa thank you for your answer. It’s very helpful! Do you happen to know the part number and where to buy them??

You're very welcome! The Part Nunber is 12638824 and can be purchased from GM Dealerships such as gmpartsstore.com, a dealership in New Mexico, gmpartsgiant.com, a reputable GM parts dealer, or even places like your local Autozone and eBay.

@@Kaswells_Kappa. Thanks again!

You're welcome!

Thank you so much! That's what I aim for!

Thank you so much! Yes, the engine showcased in the video was a 2008 2.0L LNF Engine. However, the Ignition Coils are interchangeable between the 2.0L LNF and the 2.4L LE5 Engines. I typically buy my parts from either gmpartsstore.com, a GM dealership in Nevada, or gmpartsgiant.com, a trusted company. Ignition Coils are still readily available to my knowledgeable so there shouldn't be an issue finding them. Just search for the part number 12638824 in your browser or the above sites, and you can order as many as you need. EBay is also a good choice for a cheaper price. As far as issues, there weren't really any issues with these Ignition Coils. However, they were showing signs of wear. For example, the engine will idle a tad rougher. In a worse case scenario, it could fail to send electricity to the spark plug. As for when to replace them, it's recommended to change them when you change the spark plugs (typically every 100,000 Miles / 160,000 KM), unless you feel the need to otherwise. Thank you so much! I always try to include as much information as possible. Even if it's for the smallest replacement. Knowledge is power. An LS swap isn't in the current future, but one sure could dream! Haha! But no, that's still way above my pay grade at the moment. Maybe in time, though. Hope this helps, and once again thank you so much!

I wonder who they were trying to scare off with a Bluetooth system like that! 🤣

I wonder what they wanted to play? With the wires cut and all.

I'll have to see if I can find a hidden module. There are plenty of signs showing work has been done with the wiring.

Interesting. Well, that doesn't belong there

Siren for an aftermarket alarm system, likely

That would make sense. GM's Kappa Platform (The Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice) didn't have the best "alarm" for theft deterrent. I could see someone trying to beef it up.

Thank you so much! Cabin Air Filter is actually on the list, I just haven't gotten around to it yet because it's been so hot. Now that it's cooled down, I can go back and work on it some more. So stay tuned, and I'll contact you here when it's done!

There are two ways the Kappa community has come to adopt when removing the battery. The first and intended way of removing the battery was given by GM, and it was done through the Fender as seen here. It is also included included in the Service Manual. The second and unintended way was through the Wheelhouse Liner and was created by the community. Both ways are used evenly by the community by about a 50/50 split. Some prefer the liner method, and others prefer the fender method. There are benefits and risks to both methods. The benefit of the fender method is that you don't have to lift the vehicle. The downside is that you risk misaligning the fender. The benefit of the liner method is that you don't risk misaligning the Fender. The downside is that you risk damaging the Fender if you lift the vehicle improperly. In the end, it all comes down to preference. I prefer the Fender method as it was intended through the manual. Soon, I hope to redo this video and show both methods and let the community decide on how they wish to remove the battery.

Thank you so much, and thank you for saving! That's exactly what these videos are intended for. I'll have to take a look and see how my arrows are holding up. If they aren't up to par, then I'll replace them. You can be sure I'll make a video if I do! Thanks again!