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I really don’t remember off the top of my head, but I think it was somewhere around $1,600. I’m in rural MS so the same work in most large cities and or other regions of the country could go for double or even more. It all depends on regional materials cost, regional cost of living and the ease or difficulty getting to and from the project site. You also have the supply and demand factor to equate into it as well. Hope this was more helpful than confusing.

You could do that with an exterior grade of plywood. That’s how my pallets are made. For single bottom boards, I like the smaller planks for a number of reasons. The narrow planks tend to have less noticeable deflection from cupping making them easier to work with. They also allow room for expansion and contraction within each expansion joint. It’s also a good way for me to use up materials that would otherwise be scraped.

I’m somewhere around 50 at the moment.

I’ve never had an issue with them in the spring. The deeper into summer you get the more of an issue they become. I generally pull my traps down in early June.

or at least find the studs before the vanity comes in and hid the holes behind the vanity itself...

Thank you!

I’m not 100% sure what you’re asking. For doors I use a concealed Blum hinge with a 1/2” overlay. For drawers I typically use a full extension slides. I don’t see a lot of difference between the different brands on the market. I don’t recommend buying the soft close full extension slides that side mount as I’ve seen a high failure rate with them. If you want soft close I recommend you go with Blum bottom mounts.

I do typically make minor adjustments to my cut ticket to compensate for the differences in material thickness.

Thank you!

I’m using Cypress in the video. I actually use Southern Yellow Pine for most of my hives though.

Thank you And thanks for watching!

You’re welcome Thanks for watching!

I’m using cypress in the video but I typically build out of Southern Yellow Pine for myself. Also, Eastern White Pine is a popular choice for many beekeepers. It has a lot to do with where you live and what’s most commonly available.

I don’t currently. I may try to draw one up and do a video in the Fall or early winter. That’s typically when I start building equipment.

Yes, an 8” thick mattress will work perfectly fine. The mattress in this video was approximately 10-11” thick if I remember correctly.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

To be honest, not really. For me it’s a convenience rather than a savings. I typically build my lids and bottoms / pallets. I also run some 6 frame equipment and I build that as well. It’s really a time Vs savings thing.

Thank you

Thanks!

Certainly. It would just take a little hardware from your local building supply.

I would agree with you if the wood wouldn't be stressed out. But this a box that will be receiving a lot of pressure from the hive tool when trying to get a frame out. Even with screws and glue you can sometimes separate the top part of the box.

Hey Michael, didn't your momma teach that when you have nothing nice to say, keep your mouth shut? And since you are so fast and great at it, why don't you post yours? I bet you one thing though; they won't be as beautiful and exact as this one is!

No worries! Your eyes did not deceive you. You did see me using Tightbond II early in the video. That was on the jigs I was building. Later on when I was assembling the hive boxes, I did switch over to Tightbond III. I apologize if I didn’t clarify making that switch in the video.

Most commercialy produced hives tend to use the larger box joints. The smaller 7/8” joints tend to be a little easier to set up and cut for most people who would like to build their own. I wanted to show several different options in this video so each individual could decide which construction method would suit them best. You are correct. In most woodworking projects, box joints are made to be the same as the material thickness. The reason for this is typically for the cosmetic appearance of the final product. Although common practice, this does not define what a box joint is. It can be either larger or smaller depending on the design aspects and or structural needs of the project. Thanks for the question. I hope this helps. Wes

Thank you! It gives the TH-cam algorithm fits trying to figure out who to put each video in front of but it’s where we are. Glad you’re enjoying the channel and thanks for the comment.

Thank you And thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you!

www.southerncraftwood.com/post/bottom-boards

Sorry the last one was bottom boards. Try this www.southerncraftwood.com/post/building-beehive-boxes

Yes, you should be fine. What you want to stay away from is interior grade plywood such as ply made for cabinets.

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

I have never tried a miter of any kind on a hive box. Personally I like box joints because they equally distribute the lifting load across all four sides of the box. I would be interested in hearing feedback on boxes made with locking miters after a few years of use but I really don’t want to test that theory myself. I really believe that over the course of a year or two that they will fail.

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video!!

Yes it is possible. It would be the same principle as the 1 3/8” box joint jig with a few different spacing adjustments. I haven’t done the math on it but you could do a 3/4” box joint and save the trouble of the extra pass at each finger. Also, I would recommend the stack dado over the wobble. The stack gives a flat cut all the way across the width of the cut where as the wobble will give a radius to the bottom of the cut. Hope this was helpful

A few things could be causing your troubles. If you rabbet joint is not cut square to the board or if the straight cut going into the rabbet is not cut square, this will directly affect how square your box is. This will cause your box to be racked somewhat sideways. The cut across the width of the board being cut slightly off square as well as boards having twist in them will generally make your box rock when sitting on a flat surface. I would suggest starting by checking the quality of your board. Then from there, I’d double check that your cuts are perfectly square. Best of luck Wes

Are you making the rabbets with a crosscut sled, or using the fence? If everything is off, maybe your blade isn’t parallel to the miter slots

@@liquidrockaquatics3900 yep the fence was off

@@brianw.520 glad it was just the fence. My job site saw is horrid like that, but I already have zero clearance plates for my dado stack so I have to triple check EVERY TIME I MOVE THE FENCE. I am talking measuring from the blade to the fence, then fence to miter slot across the blade to get the measurement. Then I have to check both ends of the fence and usually move one I have found one trick that sawstop owners use that actually works fairly well for some other fences is to half lock the fence then release, then lock. The half lock starts to engage the locking pawls and pulls the fence square with its rail. It doesn’t stop me from measuring repeatedly, but it has cut down the amount of adjustment to get the fence square

@@liquidrockaquatics3900 good advice! That's insane to have to check all that every time but I'm finding it's much easier to slowly check and get it right the first time vs. speedily perform something and have to correct a mistake

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

For me it’s a couple of reasons. The wider the board, the more cupped and twisted boards become an issue as far as getting them to slide into the dado. My other concern is the expansion and contraction of the boards themselves. These bottom boards are constantly experiencing changes in moisture content. Throughout the year they will grow and shrink multiple times. The smaller boards give me more opportunity to introduce more expansion joints to help allow for this movement.

Thank you and you’re welcome

It’s awesome to get messages like this! I’m so glad I could help. Best of luck as build and grow your apiary.

Create a Bed has them on their website for all the different mattress sizes as well as both vertical and horizontal layouts.

I’m glad you were able to take the plans and video and work out a method that works for you. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments.