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Both passed same time but It looks like Right was faster because the left one pulled out underneath him and he made up some ground

Hallo hallo. Can you please send me the logs... maybe I can have a look at them :) Ok so with the story of the N75 valve opening and closing, I dont think it is doing that because it is Faulty... It is being told to close because of some condition... such as Boost that might be to much. Please log your throttle body and see if its also opening and closing... and log your rpms with it and your desired and acutual boost along with wastegate if possible. If your throttle body is opening and closing by itself without boost overspiking it can be a tuning problem... is your car tuned? If your throttlebody is opening and closing because of boost overspiking then you have a problem with the boost. Then for your other questions about letting go of your throttle and then stepping on it again, it says that the boost is leaking out somehow... For example... Do you have a dump valve? If yes then its a common problem as it is releasing way to much air into the atmosphere that your turbo needs to spool up again. When did you check your Diverter valve last? Do you have the Revision D one or the one with the rubber diaphragm? If it is the rubber one it is probably torn... Otherwise you might have a boost leak somewhere that is causing your boost to drop. Hope this helps a bit.

@megalodononwheels oh and no pressure leak I checked everything, every hose, pipes. All good. Thank you so much mate!

@megalodononwheels If you could tell me beyond n75, boost, rpm, what values should I log in vcds?

You will need to google that lol... I am not sure hahaha

Super cheap... abour R3000... its shy of 200 Dollars

Press it inwards on both sides :)

Super glad I was able to help! 🏆

I am cheering for B8 lol

@megalodononwheels l'Audi A4 B5 resterà sempre la più bella anche se B8 é più veloce ... 😍

I would just like to find out from you, why is it that you want to change the O2 sensor as well? Because the PCV and the O2 sensor doesn't really play a roll together

@@megalodononwheels Thankyou for reply The code "P218700" popped up.That says system running lean at bank 1. So i figured nearing 100k miles, it could use new 02 sensor for bank1, along with the pcv valve.

For your car to pick up that it is running lean, it means the O2 sensor is doing what it is supposed to do... I would just change the PCV and then if the problem continues I would then try the O2 sensor... No need to go change a sensor that is working :)

That depends on you :) The PCV has more parts that fails than just the Diaphragm... so changing the entire PCV is also preventative maintenance :)

Supposed to be hahahaha... Its like that meme... What car do you think is fast but is not really fast? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@megalodononwheels But they're not... I literally own a 1.8T car and these are definitely not supposed to be this slow

Seriously lol

Unfortunately it wont help with the smell :'( All it does is help giving the sensor a "false" but more acurate reading to make the car think there is still a cat in it and that it is not blocked or removed... For the smell the best will be is to get a second one or just get a more expensive one... Another suggestion is to maybe buy a second hand one that comes from the same car... Quick question... the cat you bought... was it man made? Because sometimes when they weld the flange to the pipe the flange warps and then it does not seal properly and can leak causing the smell in the Cabin

@@megalodononwheels thank you so much for replying I really appreciate it. I understand that that won't work with the smell. The actual smell is coming from the back of the exhaust. And it's a cheap catalytic converter I bought on eBay it looks like it was business made but I believe from China. It was less than $100. So what I'll do is I'll try to add a smaller converter behind it and hopefully that will take the smell away from the exhaust. Because like I said, it works fine it passed emissions it did not fail the emissions test and everything's working fine. I have great power on the car the car runs great. Thank you so much again for your time I appreciate it

So many year's ago that black pipe that goes from the PCV to the intake manifold used to be a small pipe that was pointing down to the road from your car... the oil particals that used to come out of the PCV was messing on the roads and it became an environmental issue and making the roads slippery... So they had to come up with an idea and it was to just send it back into the engine... I know right lol...

Haha from South Africa lol... Glad I could help :)

Is the sensor before the cat or after the cat? If its before the cat you dont need one and if its after the cat you can get any one that fits :)

@ after

Yea in that case you will need a cat fooler...

You actually have 2 sensors one at the top of the engine which is the one you see when you pop the hood is the air fuel ratio sensor at the bottom of your cat or in the middle of the car in some cases is the second O2 sensor it’s the exhaust sensor or sniffer this is the one the mini cat goes on Walmart site has them for $16.00 a pair you need 2 if you have a V6 or V8 typically only one for the 4 cylinders

@@megalodononwheelsyup 👍🏽

Glad I could help lol

So the cone filter at a local shop and the shield aswell... shield is from Karp Performance but not sure if they are still around

So the other side of the shaft is a inner CV and the shaft is hallow. I do not know how much grease is left in that one because my boot was damaged for a long time. So I am just trying to shove some grease in there to try and get a bit towards the inner CV for incase it is a bit short

Whooooo lol

Unfortunately I have no idea 💔 hopefully someone will respond with some insights

Unfortunately the VCDS won't fix it. All we can do is enable or disable it. If it is faulty, it means there is an actual problem with the side assist system

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thank you :)

I am sorry 🙌 where are you from?

When I google it, this is what it says... This billet aluminum insert is designed to fill the large void in the factory transmission mount, and limit transmission movement without sacrificing ride quality or introducing any additional noise, vibration, or harshness into the cabin. What I have heard is that it allows less gearbox movement which allows quicker shifts as there is not so much twist in the system

@@megalodononwheels Thank you very much for telling me what function it has, I will buy it for my car because if the transmission moves a little

🤣🤣🤣🤣 I love it lol... Dangerously slow 🤣

You probably don't need to drain all the water but atleast the water from the bottle :)

A lot of info! Thanks for being so transparent 💪 So I noticed that my boost sensor was the problem, different part numbers so when I got the right one the car was pulling better just to see that I have another boost leak lol. PCV is shut so boost is pressing into the crank case and blowing out at the top timing cover... Can you imagine that 🤣 But yea, doing the threads on the shaft is number 1! Super cool idea and will help alot! Glad you got rid of that Retard 😎 your car seems healthy

I am unsure as I haven't worked on the car yet, tell me is it the IS20 turbo or the K04?

Hahaha super glad this Oldie could help 🤣💪

Lol wow... That is one hell of a car you have there then 🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@megalodononwheels its full stock... Only KN filter set😑

@@megalodononwheels take a look on my acc

Agree 💪

Sorry English please. The comment section doesn't give me any translation options

15mm tube socket

Hallo hallo, sorry for getting back to you now. A underboost condition can be multiple things, I would reccomend to check for boost leaks first or damage intercooler. (best practice is to do a pressure test on the boost system) If all is fine then you can try changing it :)

Are you talking about the HPFP or the LPFP in the petrol tank?

😂😂😂😂😂😂 Till today I am still struggling with the boost leak

th-cam.com/video/y1ZCsNQ46WQ/w-d-xo.html Here is the video that helped me with ny oil consumption 🙌

You do it when the oil is cold :)

@@megalodononwheels thx

Unfortunately I will be the wrong one to ask 😂 What you can do is search Liqui Molly (and your location such as USA or UK and ect) then look for contact details and just ask them. Because I never shopped for something like that and used it I am clueless lll

Super glad I could help :)

I think for a error code such as to lean at idle to appear is a bit to excessive for a small leak like that... Will it contribute... Yea it will But will it be the cause? No... Unless it is so bad that you can see the inside of the engine through the gap 🤣 The leak must come somewhere else and I know I usually have a problem with the PCV hose that goes to the Intake Manifold. They have O rings in and they go bad and also doesn't always clip in properly. I would say to rather look at other areas for a leak

Glaaaaaad I could help 🏆

I am no expert when it comes to how many different additives you can add at once 😂 the info I will give you might be completely off the chart 😂 I would reccomend to rather get in contact with Liqui Molly them self and find out from them 💪 Search Liqui Molly and your area and you might find a distributor locally that can help 🙌

Did u find a solution for oil consumption maybe piston soak with b12 I have a 2.0tdi a6 and it also burns oil

Ohhhhhh... Not sure... I also got mine second hand and mine didn't have one

All of them come without one afaik

@@yurii313 many thanks , its rare to open a bonnet and be able to see the sides of an engine these days , let alone see the road too.

Hi, did you come right? I unfortunately dont hsve the RTD so I won't be able to help. But if you did find out how, please tell us how because you might be able to help someone out that is also looking for the awnser :)

Lol he was a big inspiration for me at the time lol

Supppppper glad I could help 😎