วีดีโอ

Thanks so much 🥳

Glad I could help :)

The problem I had was that almost all my oil leaked out at the race track. Not when I removed the filter. So I am really not sure hey. I dont want to lie. I would reccomend to just to a proper service and replace the filter outside. The filter inside and also the oil. Dont do a half job :)

Unfortunately... yes... I still do. Much less but it looks like the longer it runs in the car the more it fades. Please note I did install a Oil catch can with the PCV and then also my top timing cover leaked ao I had some other leaks but they are sorted now. I will have to monitor again

I quickly updated the link in the Description... thank you :)

Спасибо ! Подскажи на 2.0 TFSI (BPJ) подойдёт ?

I am not sure sorry :( havent worked on that engine yet

I unfortunately have no idea. All I can think is that it should be near the turbo as it is connected to the vacuum lines on the turbo

So glad to hear that... thank you :) Also I am unsure sorry... lol... This was a while back but I use WD40 now... not a lot but it does a great job with cleaning :)

Currency? Also is it including the CV?

@ $ yes including the part

That is crazy! Wow! That is probably why I am doing everything myself 🤣

What do you see when you scan it?

Not like crazy but getting thumps... irretaring ones. Feels almost like small missfires

question what is your oil pressure at idle curious because mine is at 12-13 PSI at 800-820 RPM

Honestly... I can not check... I tried 3 different tools and I cant see how much it is... Super weird I know 👎 but for some reason yours sounds very low. I know our Cam Bridge in our car has a small mesh in it that you have to take out. That small mesh breaks off and clogs the hole. Maybe it happened and now it can't push oil through the hole causing lownoul preasure 🤷‍♂️

I can't pass the emissions test (

Hi. By adding this it won't make you pass the test. It will only fool your car to think there is a CAT but their isn't. It will go on the back one

Yes it will work :)

No you dont have to use Gasket Maker :) the rubber seals it just good. And the leaks stopped after changing the top timing cover :)

@ “after changing the top timing cover”? Just replacing the gasket didn’t help? Because my situation is; I have a Front Camshaft Seal leak aka upper timing cover adjuster magnet seal - that is the seal between the adjuster magnet and the upper timing cover. My upper timing cover gasket doesn’t leak. I’m worried that since I have to remove it and put it back in order to change the Front Camshaft Seal might substitute a future leak. Any advice on this? - apart from the obvious putting a new upper timing cover gasket even though the current one isn’t leaking? I already have a new one and gasket sealant but I don’t want to replace it if I can remove it and put it back without it leaking.

Sorry for getting back to you now... YT never showed me this comment 🤦‍♂️ I get what you are saying. Because your going to remove it now and install it again, it might start leaking. That would have also concerned me. To change the seal around the cam magnet you will need to remove the top timing cover as it will be super difficult to try and do it while it is in the car and the seal is designed to fit perfectly and tight over the cover and the magnet. By trying to force the new seal in it will only damage the new seal and it is not something you want. I see it is preventative maintenance. Once you removed the top timing cover you will see how easy it is and you will laugh at yourself for overthinking it 🤣🔥 Space is a bit minimal but it is super easy. You can get new gaskets only but in my case the price was almost the same to just buy an entire new cover than just buying the seals :)

If you have the funds then yes, go for it :)

Unfortunately not 😭😭😭😭😭

@megalodononwheels no worries, good video anyway

Thanks for adding! Now I also learned something about these cam followers 👐

Thanks for adding, can you please let me know why? They are the R8 upgraded ones

@megalodononwheels Existing test for coils here on TH-cam, where under pressure misfiring coil, and that is best way for testing them.

Suuuuuuper glad I could help :)

I dont know if your saying this with a humor or disrespecting 🤣 VCDS gives it in an Excel format and to read the data in Excel is just to much lol. Better to get it in a Line graph

@@megalodononwheels My point is the graph is not made in real time, like the title says. You can't drive and have someone in the passenger seat watch the graph. Also looking for an excel alternative for the same reason as you. And am not looking for an online graph. Was hoping to just drive then when I stop; look over at the graph.

Then, this tool is not the right tool for what you need it then. Sadly it only drops everything into a Excel sheet. Only when you stop it... Otherwise you won't know what is going on lol. If your looking for a good datalogger tool. I bought the HP Tuners MPVI3 tool and I love it. Make sure the tool is compatible with your device otherwise it won't work properly

Noooooo... I feel your pain. Something like that happened to me in the past as well. I won't forget it was a Lexsus, and I was using a different tool. I had to do it on the bench as well, and I could not pull the file according to the description of the car, so I tried another one and it worked. When it came to writing the new file the ECU didn't wanted to know anything 🤣🤦‍♂️ I lost that money as well lol... I would really recommend you to use the OBD2 rather. Just make sure you dont bump the cable or anything. Just leave the laptop on the chair and stand outside 🤣🏆

Thanks so much :) I am most definitely going to do some VCM Editor... :)

Thank you ... 👐 I try to help even the people that doesn't know HO Tuners at all :) I feel that a lot of the tutorials skips the basic things that should also be looked at for new comers :) I appreciate the kind words

This just warms my heart haha thank you :)

🏆

Always the one behind the Catalitic converter. Did you remove your cats now that you want to install them?

@@megalodononwheels Does it really work ? Because here, the mini catalytic converter more expensive 😔

If you are purchasing the right ones then they shouldn't be to expensive. But in short. It is never garenteed to use the Mini Cat. To tune it out is always the best option

@megalodononwheels after I installed it. The error code p0175. What should I do sir?

Never had the light popped up until I had it properly tuned out :)

Whoooooo... Glad to hear that :)

I like the way you said it lol. Its hard but not impossible 🏆 yea Mechanics likes to charge a lot for this lol

Always the one behind the catalytic convertor :)

Ohhhhh I will go check it out thanks 🔥

That's the only stuff I've found to work. And it does work. You have to leave it in all the time, or the smoking returns withn an hour of engine operation.

Thanks man! I feel the same about these. Its like as soon as it has been in the car for some time also wears off and starts smoking little bit by little bit more

Thanks lol

Thank you so much :)

I was hoping someone would have replied to you already lol as I dont think a bad PCV will cause a missfire only on CYL 1 and 3. Usually it just gives a bad idle and a lean code. It must be something else under my opinion. Also I never had a Purge valve DTC so I can not help with that. I wonder if the Purge valve won't cause anything? Otherwise you need to check the compressions on these 2 pistons.

@megalodononwheels I fixed the problem, by selling the car. Lol.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Both passed same time but It looks like Right was faster because the left one pulled out underneath him and he made up some ground

Hallo hallo. Can you please send me the logs... maybe I can have a look at them :) Ok so with the story of the N75 valve opening and closing, I dont think it is doing that because it is Faulty... It is being told to close because of some condition... such as Boost that might be to much. Please log your throttle body and see if its also opening and closing... and log your rpms with it and your desired and acutual boost along with wastegate if possible. If your throttle body is opening and closing by itself without boost overspiking it can be a tuning problem... is your car tuned? If your throttlebody is opening and closing because of boost overspiking then you have a problem with the boost. Then for your other questions about letting go of your throttle and then stepping on it again, it says that the boost is leaking out somehow... For example... Do you have a dump valve? If yes then its a common problem as it is releasing way to much air into the atmosphere that your turbo needs to spool up again. When did you check your Diverter valve last? Do you have the Revision D one or the one with the rubber diaphragm? If it is the rubber one it is probably torn... Otherwise you might have a boost leak somewhere that is causing your boost to drop. Hope this helps a bit.

@megalodononwheels Hey thanks for the reply. I'll do a new log with the new n75 and send the link from datazap to you. The car is stage 3 with hybrid turbo. And the theory that boost is too much is a very valid one, the tuner asked me to turn counter clockwise the screw from the wastegate actuator a little bit to try avoid this issue, its my next step. The dump valve I had a dv+ from GFB but had to uninstall because during the installation the mechanic dropped the brass piston and made a dent in it. Lol. Now I use the stock actuator dump valve.

@megalodononwheels oh and no pressure leak I checked everything, every hose, pipes. All good. Thank you so much mate!

@megalodononwheels If you could tell me beyond n75, boost, rpm, what values should I log in vcds?

That is a difficult question to answer as it all depends what you want to check?

You will need to google that lol... I am not sure hahaha

Super cheap... abour R3000... its shy of 200 Dollars

Press it inwards on both sides :)

Super glad I was able to help! 🏆

I am cheering for B8 lol

@megalodononwheels l'Audi A4 B5 resterà sempre la più bella anche se B8 é più veloce ... 😍

I would just like to find out from you, why is it that you want to change the O2 sensor as well? Because the PCV and the O2 sensor doesn't really play a roll together

@@megalodononwheels Thankyou for reply The code "P218700" popped up.That says system running lean at bank 1. So i figured nearing 100k miles, it could use new 02 sensor for bank1, along with the pcv valve.

For your car to pick up that it is running lean, it means the O2 sensor is doing what it is supposed to do... I would just change the PCV and then if the problem continues I would then try the O2 sensor... No need to go change a sensor that is working :)

That depends on you :) The PCV has more parts that fails than just the Diaphragm... so changing the entire PCV is also preventative maintenance :)

Supposed to be hahahaha... Its like that meme... What car do you think is fast but is not really fast? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@megalodononwheels But they're not... I literally own a 1.8T car and these are definitely not supposed to be this slow

Seriously lol

Unfortunately it wont help with the smell :'( All it does is help giving the sensor a "false" but more acurate reading to make the car think there is still a cat in it and that it is not blocked or removed... For the smell the best will be is to get a second one or just get a more expensive one... Another suggestion is to maybe buy a second hand one that comes from the same car... Quick question... the cat you bought... was it man made? Because sometimes when they weld the flange to the pipe the flange warps and then it does not seal properly and can leak causing the smell in the Cabin

@@megalodononwheels thank you so much for replying I really appreciate it. I understand that that won't work with the smell. The actual smell is coming from the back of the exhaust. And it's a cheap catalytic converter I bought on eBay it looks like it was business made but I believe from China. It was less than $100. So what I'll do is I'll try to add a smaller converter behind it and hopefully that will take the smell away from the exhaust. Because like I said, it works fine it passed emissions it did not fail the emissions test and everything's working fine. I have great power on the car the car runs great. Thank you so much again for your time I appreciate it

So many year's ago that black pipe that goes from the PCV to the intake manifold used to be a small pipe that was pointing down to the road from your car... the oil particals that used to come out of the PCV was messing on the roads and it became an environmental issue and making the roads slippery... So they had to come up with an idea and it was to just send it back into the engine... I know right lol...

Haha from South Africa lol... Glad I could help :)

Is the sensor before the cat or after the cat? If its before the cat you dont need one and if its after the cat you can get any one that fits :)

@ after

Yea in that case you will need a cat fooler...

You actually have 2 sensors one at the top of the engine which is the one you see when you pop the hood is the air fuel ratio sensor at the bottom of your cat or in the middle of the car in some cases is the second O2 sensor it’s the exhaust sensor or sniffer this is the one the mini cat goes on Walmart site has them for $16.00 a pair you need 2 if you have a V6 or V8 typically only one for the 4 cylinders

@@megalodononwheelsyup 👍🏽

Glad I could help lol