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My Haitian brother. Merci

The right way to replace the fuel pump is from underneath by removing the fuel tank and you should seek advice from your local garage

I need Info , this sam controls front low beam lights

This videos sucks you need to show how to remove it not tell us how to remove it after you already did it

REPLACE MY FUEL PUMP THE PROBLEM STILL THERE

I CAN NOT FIND MY EKPM3

HEY WILLIAM I HA VE A 2001 BMW X5 3.0 I HAVE A BIG PROBLEM. CRANK AND START AND DIES SO FAST. NEEDS HELP PLEASE

My ccv heater valve melted 😢 🎉❤🎉

great now make a part 2 of the video and show where you fill it

Good presentation

Do you have a video of how to change Oxegen sensor for this model?

The camera is not showing what you’re explaining. I can see the hose laying there but don’t see where it’s connecting to!

I took help from your video thanks a lot

Is the pressure switch for 3rd gear green or black

Not make sense you Camara is not in the right place can't see the numbers

Hello, pls how did you fix the water leak. Thank you.

God job

Interesting !!!!!

Good job

Thank you!

Great video that helped me fix my Land Rover LR4 for $21 and not the $600 it cost for the LR dealership to replace the PCV diaphragm previously. They told me they had to remove the valve cover but that is not the case. Yes the PCV diaphragm is in an awkward spot on the back of the passenger side valve cover but it can be accessed. I sat on the stable part of the front of the engine compartment and leaned across the engine and had no problem getting to the PCV diaphragm. I disconnect the vacuum hose the runs right over top of the PCV diaphram by simply squeezing the clamp and pulling up on the front connector. The rear connector is on the back of the passenger engine head but I could not get a good enough squeeze to remove it. Disconnecting the front hose connector allowed me to shift the hose to the left to get to the PCV diaphragm. I used a small 90-degree angled pick to get under the three tabs that you can see and had to pick at a fourth back tab to free the PCV diaphram cover; it took some finesse to get it removed. Don't be afraid to break the tabs because the repair kit comes with the new cover. Just be patient when removing. When removed, I noticed that one of the tabs on the valve cover was broken. I was careful so I think the dealership broke that tab. Anyway, one broken tab hasn't affected the function of the diaphragm as the cover is solidly locked in place. The cover just keeps the diaphragm in place, which gets sucked and sealed from the inside when the engine is running and creates a vacuum. I notice my LR4 was running sluggish before the check engine light appeared, but after replacing the PCV diaphragm the truck ran like a champ. The check engine light stayed on after the repair, which made me doubt the fix. But after a day and 20 engine start cycles the computer reset and cleared the check engine light. I ordered a pack of two diaphragms from amazon for $23, with tax, which is for the V8 engine that has two diaphragms. Not sure how long they will last but the two OEM diaphragms got tears in them at 40,000 miles and I'm pretty sure this diaphragm will last as long. I hope this helps.

legend you saved me 😅

Thank you. Good video. Will help a lot!

Very complete and clean job

Another useless video completely don’t know what your talking bout

🔥 HELP! Im not sure if anyone will see this comment. But my EKPM3 Is not getting any power to it. The ground is good. I check the relays under the dash its all good. Anyone out there that came across this issue. 2011 e90 n55 sedan thanks in advance

Waste of time, sorry!

Thanks sir

You need to put this corner on a Jack stand & support the steering knuckle with a Jack. To take the top bolt out you just have to move the brake line there is a bracket holding the brake line that needs to be removed. You might want to get a 18 mm flex Wratchet style head wrench & 21 mm regular wrench to hold the nut on the other side.

For anyone else, mine was the module requiring to be coded. I used NCS expert and kcan cable

what about the other bolt. how do you take it off?

What is the size for the socket to take off the bolt

I'm having my car in limp mode , please help. the car turns on and stays on but the idle goes from 1k to 3k up and down , up and down

I put in 3 quarts and it is over-filled. A really helpful number would be the transmission fluid capacity on this car. I'm not exactly sure where you are getting your 3.5 to 4 quarts from. But it is expressly noted to not over-fill the transmission. Getting this right is imperative, and a pain. My suggestion: 1. check the transmission fluid level before you start. Bring that level up to manufacture level (dipstick level hot). 2. Let the engine cool. 3.Drain the transmission and measure this quantity (volume), this is the amount of fluid you'll need to replace. (This is why you let the engine cool, the transmission fluid you'll be using to replace the drained fluid will be at room temperature.) The reason for this is the transmission fluid has hiding places, like the radiator, that you may not drain. So, you have the total capacity - the residual capacity and now you add 3.5 to 4 quarts and you're over-filled. Fixing this is a messy major headache. 4. Checking the final level, bring the car up to running temperature. Parking break on, foot on break, slowly shift the gears P to R to N to D to - and + then back. While the car is running check the dipstick and hopefully it is where it needs to be. Things you'll need: 17mm socket and a breaker bar (I used my socket wrench and put the handle into a lug wrench). An expandable funnel (Walmart and less than a dollar). The dipstick port is insanely located and where the new transmission fluid goes. A new washer for the bolt (get these at the Subaru dealer when you buy your transmission fluid, it is the same size as the one's for changing the motor oil). I have a 2009 Forester XT. Hopefully this helps you.

Very helpful video, Brother. Thank you.

I have 10V at the output of the fuel pump controller. Also 10V on the fuel pump cube. The vehicle drives and there are no problems with it. ISTA shows the same voltage

I cannot see the line on the gap tool,that shows 0.043. Can you please show a better camera view or picture please? And thank you! I really need to know this! So I can put mines in rite!

I have my break hose cracked is that an issue???for code P0171

Engine size needed

Is this at the front of the car? I no you reach it through the passenger side . Is the part that connect to converter just right there ? I thought it came from passenger side and went in back of car by passenger tire?

Is this at the front of the car? I no you reach it through the passenger side . Is the part that connect to converter just right there ? I thought it came from passenger side and went in back of car by passenger tire?

Keep posting this car

Great job

Thanks for this video, your about to save me a few hundred bucks! do you have a video on replacing both belts on the 2010 Subaru Forester?

How I message you?

Thank you, I would like to know where the P0340 Back 1 sensor is Nissan Murano 2009

Ummm....this video is missing A LOT

Iscritto e messo like al video.la mia macchina ha quel problema.non parte e manca corrente alla pompa del serbatoio.volevo chiederti dato che da poco mi si era rotta la pompa alta pressione con limatura.dovuto sostituire iniettori e pulizia a tutto l'impianto di alimentazione.se la pompa alta pressione gira a secco non c'è il rischio che rifaccia limatura e tocca di nuovo cambiare pompa bassa alta pressione iniettori e pulizia impianto alimentazione?

I try open the box of gloves you know how i can open it

Good video