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I haven’t had any intermittent issues with the emulator but it will not let the Cummins go full throttle. 80% is the best I can do. I turned the tuner up to compensate for that so I’m happy with it. Got 50hp injectors and compound turbos now (365 & 480)

What do you mean?

@@bradbarnes2046 mine is a 4430 and i see the difference now

I’m from Alabama

No baffles Means no air flow?

I’m confused by your rambling. When my house was built they used this insulation. I added flooring in my attic for more storage space and the insulation that was there had packed down so I added more. There is plenty of air flow in my attic. I have a ridge vent down the center of my roof.

@@bradbarnes2046 I insulate at over 10.000' In the rocky mountain I own the company I will use any and all products To the builders or customers request Here the code for attics is r49 With county building dept inspection Before dry wall So my rambling is what I see here is a 2nd mistake Not a passing job here I challenge anyone any where no matter the project And give a 4 yrs warranty to home owner Find anyone else offering that. So give me on place I can post you photos of work It's 10 outside and we have a huge job going with no heat in the home All we use as we work is a small heater And his one is over 3.000' So I think I know what I am rambling on about sir

@@jeffking5343 I have yet to turn my heater on this year and in the summer time my power bill is never over $200. 4k sqft house. Also my house is over 20 years old so

@@jeffking5343 Is English not your native language? You need to communicate a bit more clearly.

The timing belt broke on the car. The engine came to a stop real quick 😁

Factory A arms. Just changed out the shocks.

Yes it is still working. I’m having a problem now with the fuel lines loosing prime but a few turns of the key and the truck will start

Yes it did but I would suggest buying a slide hammer

You have to bleed the fuel lines to the injectors. If you are not getting fuel still make sure that the fuel off or the engine shut off valve is correctly installed. That is easily checked by pulling the engine shut off cable. Hopefully that helps let me know if not

I followed your instructions and got it started. Thanks. It's running rough at the moment. How would I know if all 4 cylinders are running? I think i need to rotate pump like what you do on an older car to advance or retard it. What do you think. The choke lever is hitting against the exhaust manifold. Before i could pull choke and kill the motor but i can't now. Also before, i have tried to turn off the motor using the key but it wouldn't. That's why I used the choke to kill it. Today messing with the choke didn't shut itc off. I was able to turn the motor by up the air intake.

I’m glad to hear that you got it running. When the engine is running smoothly it is running on all cylinders. The Diesel engine doesn’t have a choke. The leaver on the side of the pump that you are pulling is the fuel shut off valve. The key will not turn off the older tractors. You should be able to rotate the leaver to clear the exhaust manifold or you could rotate the pump but I would try to realign it to where it was before

I watched a couple videos. I reinstalled the lever up instead of down like where it supposed to be. I should have checked it before mounting the pump back. I don't want to take the pump off. I hope removing the exhaust manifold and injector lines, i have enough room to flip the lever downwards. I'm learning. This is my first diesel equipment I have ever owned. Thanks for your help.

No, it would only lock up in the top 2 gears

id be careful using a weed eater if you got wires in the attic

The TRX suspension on the rear works great the problem with the front is there is not enough length for the TRX suspension to fit. The YFZ is a little shorter

@@bradbarnes2046 gotcha, so TRX rear & yfz fronts alrighty. Did your axles ever have any issues and or if you ride steep downhills did it ever feel tippy? Thanks for replying

Elka on the front would probably work better but for the price I couldn’t justify

@@fudgeman333 I haven’t noticed any tipping issues. It does ride smoother to me and it absorbs harder hits better

Can you get to the ball by just removing the fitting?

I will look for it

Thanks I. Would really appreciate it.

I found the pedal

Are you on Facebook ? So I can private message you and come up with a price and shipping

Yes brad barnes. It’s me any my wife outside in the dark

I did a Goggle search for the cap and I can’t find anything. You may need to go to the dealership to get a new cap or get a machine shop to make you one. The cheapest option would probably be to go to the dealership though. Sorry I could not be more help to you. When you do find the part number would you list it in case someone else has the same problem. Thanks

I rewatched the video several times. I have no clue where that came from. Good eye lol

Tom I bought mine online for about half the price and I haven’t had a problem with it leaking yet. The parts that I got looked to be good quality parts

I went back with the factory computer. I had the same problem with towing. You can have the transmission shifting great and once you are towing it doesn’t want to shift correctly. But to help you out go to the temp vs pressure and adjust that line. I will say that a light bind will have you thinking a flare as well. It is a difficult thing to figure out what to do sometimes. Sorry I can’t be more help

I need to make a video showing the newest update to my truck

I went back to factory tuning with SCT. It worked the best for me

It is about near impossible to get it to shift correctly with a standalone computer I went back with Ford

Alexander Rosales I’m not sure about that but the filters are around $10 each so not going to break the bank

I will have to show a video of driving it. Right now I'm in the process of tuning the transmission the DCS way. I do the like the option of using tow/haul which is the main reason for swapping

@@bradbarnes2046 I'd like to see that

It's the seals on the shaft. If you don't have them on correctly or when putting the pump back on make sure that you don't mess them up. You may need to get a small flat head screwdriver or something small to help get the seal into the pump. Go slow making sure that the seal are going in correctly and I suggest a generous amount of oil to help slide the pump back on. If you have never taken the pump off I would say that the seals have just went bad. They should look something like this )-( with the tops facing the opposite directions. Hope this helps

Look into DCS Diesel Conversion Specialist. I started looking into them myself for transmission controller. I want to have tow haul back. I will be coming out with some new videos soon.

I have and they don't offer anything yet. You'd think there would be more options as common as this swap is becoming.

I used the Dodge ac pump but the Ford switches.

Just curious is there pressure building up in your fuel tank. There should be a way for the tank to vent if it is building pressure. If it's not that there is a fuel line that comes off the top of the pump that goes back to the tank. I need to blow that out but also you're blowing the trash back into the tank so you might have to clean the tank out or hope that it gets caught by the fuel filters. Let me know if that helps you

question while its running is there suppoesed to be pressure inside the pump cover

MKOMKONNNN not sure which cover you are talking about. If you take the top line off the pump does fuel flow out?

@@bradbarnes2046 the injector pump cover

@@bradbarnes2046 f01.justanswer.com/koboma/5be57af7-9995-4ca8-9ec1-2c0822070ab9_1840_FUEL_INJECTION_PUMP_AND_DRIVE.pdf

You shouldn't have to worry about lining the timing marks on the engine because you're not going to pull out the gear. At the end of my video I explain how the pump will be timed back with the engine. The shaft has a flat with a dot on one side. Inside the pump there is a dot on one side. If you need to rotate the pump to align the dots you can use a large flat head screwdriver. It's very simple to do. About the water in the fuel. I hope that it didn't rust anything in the pump. Apple cider vinegar will take the rust off the steel but it will also eat metal so you can't leave it in there very long and never put aluminum in it. Probably the best thing would be steel wool and automatic transmission fluid

@@bradbarnes2046 so if i don't remove the drive gear from the engine that goes to the pump i don't need to time the engine before removal?? makes sense but don't wanna mess up!!

Which one, on the fuel inlet or the return to tank elbow glass ball????

I have made a few more updates to the program. I need to make a video on how to read the data logs. It has been a long process and I still make changes to sometimes

Cody Hurd I’m sorry but I did not make a rebuild video like I was going to. But the pump is really easy to take apart. I took pictures of everything as I was taking it apart. I will say this be sure to keep the pump ring at the end going the same way. If you mess up and flip it the wrong way the tractor will never start back. An easy way to tell if you need to flip the ring around is the pump will never suck in fuel. But like I said it was extremely easy to take apart and put back together just long as you take pictures as you take it apart. This was the first one I’ve ever done and I was surprised how easy it was.

Cody Hurd watch this video th-cam.com/video/MpsJma1nvGg/w-d-xo.html. I found this the best video to show what you will see inside the pump

@@bradbarnes2046 thank you i will