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Yeah, I finally have more free time 😅😅

I haven't printed in ASA but I don't think there should be any problems.

Be warned, printing is very addictive 😁😁

Tur mn-560 - isn't mine 😄

Hi. I didn't use sandpaper, but that doesn't mean you can't use it. Maybe a better solution would be to change the print parameters to make this surface smoother....

@@alberto1P Hmm... Print parameters should be pretty good, at least I think I can't get it significantly smoother with my printer. I'll try sandpaper in the next days and keep you updated.

Cura has the option to choose what print first. - "Shell" -> left gear -> "Outer before inner walls" and - "Infill" -> left gear -> "Infill before walls". With this you should be able to get Cura to print in whichever order you need

Of course, you may think this way, but I can assure you that this is not the case. I press down on the wheels with the same level of force each time as when zeroing the caliper. Unfortunately, objects made of plastic are not very rigid and are prone to bending. Therefore, in order for the measurement to be correct (I will repeat myself here) it is required that the wheels are pressed down with the same force as when setting 0 (this should be a small force).

@@alberto1P This is to ignore the backlash of the gears right? As the play creates a range of error, but if the gears are strained in one direction and locked. Then they give a proper and repeatable value. I think Is not so much bending as the space between Teeth.

@@AlexanderZapataIndividual Exactly, just as you write. You can see how to the backlash correction at the beginning of the video below: th-cam.com/video/67zloBT8CIw/w-d-xo.html

Why do you write like this? Do you have any problem with the mechanism working properly?

Hi. I do not know how to do it automatically. To do it manually, you must at the right time select the option to replace the filament from the printer panel. This is described in the video - turn on the subtitles. Greetings Albert

@@alberto1P thank you. I’ll try that. I’m having trouble when I change the filament on the pause at layer height. It purges out the old color but then when it starts to print again for the numbers it leaves a blob on the print before printing the Numbers. Do you know what setting will reduce that blob?

@@ChadLower I had a similar problem but it was before I changed the filament. Moments before replacing the filament, the printer would think for a long time and during this time it would leave a blob on the surface. I managed to solve this problem by setting the parameter 'initial retraction' to 0. I don't know how I could advise you, maybe you don't clean the nozzle thoroughly after changing the filament?

I thought about it for a long time, but unfortunately I do not know such a way.

@@alberto1P How about adding a spring so the second gear is always slightly pushed?

​@@Niohimself Too much measurement range, it will not work.

In my opinion, after you change filament you don't correctly extrude new filament. It is not enough to just pull out the old one and put in the new one. You need to extrude the correct amount of new filament from the nozzle (in the hotend can be air so the layers don't stick well).

I used stainless steel parts, so my caliper is water-proof :)

It depends on how accurate the part is. Default I use 25 mm/s on external and internal walls, max 15mm/s on the first layer, 50 mm/s on others.

See here: cults3d.com/en/users/AW_3DPrint_Tools/creations

Hello do you have this file and can you sell it to me, I'm in Brazil and I would like to have it in hand to build it

@@marceloricardosilva6493 Hi. You can found it on my profile on cults: cults3d.com/en/users/AW_3DPrint_Tools/creations

@@alberto1P i can't buy it, because the site doens't have a ticket option, can you send me a another option on whatsapp ?

@@marceloricardosilva6493 I'm sorry but I ONLY sell my design on the cults site.