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Yes, the rotary encoder controls the setpoint for the ping pong ball. Thanks for pointing out that the site was down, I hadn't noticed, check back in a couple of days or so, it needed a bunch of updates apparently. And I don't have the time to fix it right now.

@OffHoursEngineering No problem.I'm trying a similar project for university , but I'm using a potentiometer to set the height but I can't get it to work.

@elsoudani4028 it should work basically the same with a potentiometer. Instead of reading the pulses from the encoder and increasing or decreasing a variable you'll just do an analog read and transfer that value to a variable as the setpoint. It might be a good idea to supervise the value from the potentiometer and only change the setpoint if it changes more than .5-1%. otherwise it might be a bit unstable.

Yes, if you want too. You can buy it without any electronics and reuse what you have on hand. That's what I did.

It depends on the application. If you're using a PWM driver for a DC motor it doesn't really matter since motors aren't that sensitive to that type of interference. For electronics such as microcontrollers or computers it's a different matter. An easy check to make is getting a multimeter and put it in AC mode while measuring the DC voltage. Ideally you should measure zero. If you have more than a volt or two it's not great. If you are having weird intermittent failures this is also a good way to troubleshoot if a power supply is failing.

@@OffHoursEngineering ok, my 20€ ac-dc gives 79V ac, but with the oscilloscope it looks like it is rather around 10V, so I probably need to upgrade, eventhough it is only a for an intrated servo? Is their any correlation between ripple and lifetime?

It depends. Sometimes I use double sided tape, or screws, or masking tape and super-glue. I have also recently added an aluminium plate where I can drill and thread holes for even more secure work holding.

Yes, I agree. They are better at compressing air and would give higher flow over the filters. But this was mostly a quick and dirty proof of concept. And the amount of particles it catches is actually better than I thought.

@@OffHoursEngineering better than what I have going on. I'm currently just standing at my cnc table, holding a vacuum hose. Lol. The dust was so bad on my last day of cutting that I've decided dust collection is a must now. I've seen good things said about those cyclonic bucket dust collectors. Maybe I'll try that.

Yes, I know. But when I made the video that machine hadn't been launched yet. It is almost as if bulkman stole my idea, haha 😄.

It is still going strong, I've had close to no issues in the first year of running it. The only problems I've had have been self inflicted. Today I would go for their "Ultimate Bee" which is basically the same but with ball screws. But I would definitely recommend it.

@@OffHoursEngineering That's the one I was thinking on getting, thank you very much for the reply!

Yes, as long as the power supply can provide enough amps. So if you have 4 stepper motor drivers rates for a max of 5 amps, you will need a power supply that can deliver 5*4=20 amps. If you are planning on running the steppers hard. But I would suggest that you put individual fuses/mcb's before each driver. This makes troubleshooting easier, you can instantly see which driver that is tripping a breaker for example.

@@OffHoursEngineering Thanks for answer, what 220V fuse do you use to connect to wall power outlet?

Generally a 6 or 10 amp Mini Circuit Breaker (MCB), but it depends on the load and your power supply. If you have a 6 amp fuse you have around 1320 watts of power and with 10 amp you have 2200w. In the example with the 5 amp stepper drivers and a 36 volt power supply (almost the same setup I have, except I have 2 power supplies) you would need 5*4*36=720w so a 6amp fuse on the 220 side would be more than enough.

@@OffHoursEngineering Now I understand it, thanks :)

My screws were definitely not fine, but I'm happy you were more lucky than I was. But you can't really compare servos to steppers, that's like comparing apples and oranges. Like, of course they will work better, faster, and be more reliable. That's what they are built for, the torque curves between steppers and servos are completely different.

15000? Wow. What motors are you using?

Yes, I know, their "Ultimate Bee". But they didn't have that when I bought my QueenBee, I think they only launched it before Christmas last year.

No problem, from the top of the Z-axis stepper motor to the bottom of the machine it is 585mm but that can vary a bit depending on how you place the z-axis limit switch.

I wanted to get going quickly, simply, and cheap. And make no mistake you can use a router for probably 90%of what the machine can do, you only have to adjust your speeds and feeds to be able to do it. I have even succeeded in cutting cast iron with it. But I will replace the router with a 2.2kw spindle shortly. I'm filming the rebuild right now.

@@OffHoursEngineering great. I really enjoy watching when harder substances are milled on a similar/same machine. Im quickly learning the size/quality/type of bit makes a HUGE difference when pushing a machine to near its limits. Look forward to seeing your new video.

@@OffHoursEngineering I read on the Bulkman website that they designed the QueenBee pro/Ultimate Bee to run with a 2.2kw and even a 4kw spindle.

Yeah, I saw that as well. But the max I'm going to go is 2.2kw. I actually bought a 3kw spindle at first but the weight and size is way bigger than I I first thought and I think that especially the weight might lead to more trouble than it is worth. You would probably need a lot more rigid gantry to be able to take full advantage of it.

@@OffHoursEngineering There is a place here in Canada where they purchase different CNC kits, put them together and sell them at a premium price. Anyways.... they will not carry the 1500x1500 because they say there is the potential for too much flex. What is your size ? It looks like a 1000x1000. I ordered the 1500x1500 because I need the size but I fear I may have made a poor decision. What are your thoughts?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I'm happy to hear that you liked it! The only problem I've had was during the assembly with the bad quality of most of the screws. Apart from that it performs flawlessly.

Hej Ernste, kul att höra! Jag har provkört lite Alu för att förbereda inför att bygga ett fäste till en riktigt vattenkyld spindelmotor. Det kommer komma upp på tuben i snar framtid, men jag vet inte exakt när än. Det har funkat okej, det lilla jag gjort. Men jag behöver fixa bättre fastspänningsmöjligheter för att göra det mer användarvänligt. Jag har varit riktigt nöjd med ESTLcontroller, väldigt slimmat och lättarbetat Interface. Man har bara det det man behöver och inget lull-lull. Sen finns flera enkla makron för att mäta in olika formvaror. Det enda jag saknar, som gör att jag tittar på ett byte till linuxcnc, är att jag inte kan ställa in individuella "Home offset" för Y-axeln i ESTL. Så jag kan inte referensköra Y-axeln för att se till att den är exakt 90° i förhållande till X-axeln. Om det inte varit för det hade jag behållt ESTL på maskinen. Men det blir en senare fråga efter att jag bytt ut fräsen etc.

@@OffHoursEngineering Okej. Ja jag kommer väl inte köra speciellt mycket alu heller, känner bara att jag vill att de ska vara möjligt. Du nämnde Raw maskinerna i någon film, och jag var så otroligt nära att beställa en sån men så plötsligt försvann modellen. Åja, de är en sån röd 1419 jag har, köpte den för att lära mig. Nu funderar jag på att antingen bygga om/ut den alternativt köparen lite större. Å denna queenbee är ju klart intressant. Skulle du rekommendera?

Ja, jag skulle rekommendera den, jag skulle köpa den igen. Jag kan inte se att det är mycket skillnad på bulkmans grejer eller ratrig eller ooznest eller andra av samma modell. Det enda jag egentligen är missnöjd med var kvalitén på vissa av skruvarna, så jag skulle köpa på mig bättre skruv redan från början om jag skulle bygga en igen. Jag tyckte också det var synd att raw 1.5 maskinerna försvann de var lagom dyra för en hobbymaskin. Deras nya raw Avantic är för dyr för att vara av intresse för mig.

@@OffHoursEngineering Ja de är i blodigaste laget om man inte ska köra produktion utan bara lite hobby. Ja men du de låter som att jag får fördjupa mig lite mer i denna maskin. Tack så väldigt mycket för dina svar. Återkommer säkert senare med mera frågor. 🤪👍👍👍

I bought it directly from Bulkman. The only problems I had was with the quality of the screws, many of them stripped out from being looked at wrong, and with cleanliness. They hadn't cleaned the aluextrusions after cutting them so I had to clean up a lot of swarf and crap. But apart from that I'm very pleased with it so far.

@@OffHoursEngineering Thank you. I think this is the kit for me...

The drive is a huangyang but I've gotten hold of an ABB ACS 355 I'll be using instead. We were throwing it out at work so I nabbed for free. The drive is a vevor, it might not be the best quality but I got a great deal on it on eBay.de. I've already designed a spindle mount for it and that video will be coming as soon as I source the material for it.

@@OffHoursEngineering ABB is on another league, great catch. Are you sure that your z axis stepper motor will cope with the spindle weight? In my case, I bought a dust collector shoe from B3D, which is made from metal, quite heavy I'd say (didn't know better at that time). It turns out that when mounted the 3A motor was simply not strong enough to handle the considerable spindle+dust shoe weight, not only losing steps but not being able to lift it at all. At that time I had my motors setup so that they were not powered when idle, and with a lower max current. I had to repeat the experience with my current settings but all it seems to me that I'll have to design and 3D print a new dust shoe out of ABS.

I have thought about it but the 425oz steppers I'm using should be ok. Otherwise I can either replace it with a 100w servo motor I have or gear it down with a belt. If I do it correctly I could balance out the weight of the spindle a bit as well.

@@OffHoursEngineering I sincerely hope that you manage, but if you don't and have to solve it, please do a video on that!

Don't worry, I will make a video about it no matter how it goes.

I'm glad to hear that, and that is one of my goals. Since there is so much misinformation and bad practices floating around out there.

Thanks man, it means a lot to hear that!

Don't worry, I have more in the pipeline.

I think I got one but I didn't keep it I'm sorry to say. But Bulkman have a pretty comprehensive build manual online. Where the parts needed are listed at the beginning of every chapter. bulkman3d.com/knowledge-base/queenbee-pro/

Greate to hear! With the Z-Axis in max positive direction it is 595mm high.

That would be nice, I'm all for repurposed materials. Most of my electrical stuff comes from the wastebin at work.

Nej, det är inget jag har planerat att göra. Det finns många andra som har gjort det och jag använder ju ingen av de själv. Men jag har tänkt att filma när jag uppgraderar till linuxcnc eller vad det nu blir.

@@OffHoursEngineering tack för svaret

The control side, yes, but I would suggest you build a CNC plasma cutter instead of a router for cutting sheet metal.

Ja, överlag är jag nöjd. Den är definitiv prisvärd och kvalitén skulle jag säga är jämförbar med andra portalfräsar av samma konstruktion. Jag anmärkte på ett par saker i filmerna jag gjort men det värsta var nog kvalitén på skruvarna och det är ju trots allt rätt lätt att åtgärda om man vill det. Jag skulle definitivt välja Bulkman igen hellre än dyrare leverantörer, jag kan inte se att det skulle leda till några fördelar. Men jag köpte ingen elektronik från dem så jag har ingen aning om vad de levererar för produkter där

@@OffHoursEngineering okey härligt och höra. Ska nog pröva. Får jag lite problem så hör jag av mig.😉😀

Haha, gör det. Det har andra redan gjort 😄

Thanks, nice to hear that you like them! And I definitely will keep it up!

Thanks!

Unfortunately I don't speak Russian or read cyrillic. But I hope your happy.

@@OffHoursEngineering Hello, I wrote you a comment to the video, I wrote a like and a subscription, I also want to buy such a machine, thank you

@@OffHoursEngineering Please tell me your opinion about this machine, thank you

I have honestly never heard of that, how would that work? Most of the ones at work are rated for -40 to +80°c environments.

@@OffHoursEngineering They work, but they detect the metal at different distances depending on the ambient temperature. I do not know if it only occurs in the cheapest, but in the world of 3d printing they stopped being used because of this problem.

I made the table 1200x1200mm for my 1010 QB Pro and that has worked fine. If you are planning on getting a different size QB pro I would suggest adding atleast 200mm to the outside dimensions of the machine to get the table size, maybe a 50-100mm more if you want lots of room around the machine.

@@OffHoursEngineering So if I get the QB1515, then the table should be 1700x1700. Not sure where to get such a large piece of wood. Thanks for the quick response. Your videos are great and very useful. Any additional thoughts on using ball screws??

If you can, I would at least make it 1500x1700 because the Y-axis stepper motors stick out about 150mm from the machine. Not yet, I've been swamped at work and otherwise lately so there haven't really been time to mess around in the garage.

I ordered the 1015 and mentioned that it would be nice if they had a dimensioned drawing. I was told that... C&P "1000x1500mm is the frame. For the frame + motor you need to add an additional 46mm for the spacers + either 56mm or 86mm depending on which stepper motor you choose. (mine are the standard no choice 23) If you are building a table or enclosure for machine size 1000x1500mm, we recommend making it 200mm or 300mm larger than the frame. So for you, the space around1300x1800mm." I also noticed the stepper motors were in the back which for me would waste space. Asked if they could be placed in the front and they can be. This is still an increase over the frame size but at least this extra space will be on the front of the machine where it may be useful. On the back it seems to me just wasted space for no purpose. It also seems easier to wire it up this way. This can be seen in his th-cam.com/video/ePbAace3L44/w-d-xo.html I am space challenged to the point that I dropped down from the 1515 to the 1015. Still have space for it but every bit counts.

I omitted it by choice. Since I am not running a VFD at the moment there isn't much interference. The only possible source of interference is the stepper motors and they are not nearly as bad as a VFD. So far it has worked without a problem for I don't know how many hours. When I upgrade to a VFD I plan to do some testing to see if cable management and grounding is enough or if I need a filter. The only supply to the arduino is the USB from the computer so that is probably the cleanest supply in the entire system :)

Where would you install the EMI filter? Planning to buy a QueenBee Pro and looking for information about everything required for a safety installation. Great video

On the incoming line to the VFD. But it is important understand that a filter would suppress any distortions feeding back from the VFD to the mains but any interference from the motor wires would still be present and might cause problems. So proper grounding and separation of signal and power cables on the machine is still a must. Nice to hear that you like the videos!

You are correct, it is. But the T-nuts I used have serrations on the back that cuts through the anodisation and makes proper contact. And in other places I used threaded holes for the ground cables and then it is not an issue.

I'm using ESTL controller and an Arduino nano as a breakout board, I discuss why in part 6 of the build series. I hadn't really planned to do a how to video of the software, Christian knülls own TH-cam channel describes fairly well how to go about things. And there are others as well if you do a search on TH-cam. I'm happy to hear that you like my build, I'll be happy to help if you have any more questions.

Went for the 1500mm and shouldn’t have bought a water cooled 2,2kw spindle as that fucker is way to heavy for the width. Currently running an off brand Mikati router. But hey, I’ll be making my own upgrade for a smaller more heavy duty machine with the current machine.

@@KeckerErt Dang I already bought it and got it in. Its okay I'll end up reinforcing it along with the entire frame once I get it built. I just need to figure out what software to use since I model everything in Solidworks and have a GBRL (the one they recommended) unit. I'm thinking Vcarve Pro and hoping I can transfer a Solidworks file directly into it and it will read the entire model; does this sound correct or doable?

Yes, I think so. Vcarve pro can import STL models for 3d toolpaths so it shouldn't be a problem. But I think there are some limitations, like you can only import 1 model per design or something. I researched it before I built my machine. That's why I settled on ESTLcam. It can do 95 percent of what vectric software can do for a fraction of the price. And I use fusion for all my modelling so I don't need the modelling functions of vcarve pro or aspire.

@@KeckerErt do you have the 80/40 extrusion like the website says for the queen bee pro or did you get the older light weight setup they had before? A good reference: do you have the 80/40 extrusion like the website says for the queen bee pro or did you get the older light weight setup they had before? A good reference, I can’t attached the link because it removes my comment but here’s the location that gives the extrusion strength: MOTION Automation Intelligence WHAT ALUMINUM T-SLOT BAR SHOULD I USE