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At the crank.

@roguearttuning but in the vid you made more hp

@@dannymartinez8522 because it's modified and tuned......

​@@roguearttuningI guess I misunderstood in the description all I read was stock

you have to get the combustion chamber machined on the heads so your compression ratio is okay. from my understanding after that you can just bolt them on

This is just the Subaru OEM Mitsubishi made TD04

Subaru td04L13T

Modified stock Subaru injectors are 👎👎 injector Dynamics or Fuel Injector Clinic. This wasn't my car, is a customer's. Would definitely have ID1050x's or FIC1000s if it were my car

@@roguearttuning it was a joke.

It crosses my mind all the time. To be honest, business has gotten a lot busier in last 1.5-2 years or however long it's been, so documenting has been hard. I think about it regularly but just haven't gotten back into the swing of it. Maybe one of these days soon. On top of lots of cool cars that I work on, I also have an S14 that I'm k24 turbo swapping, about to start rebuilding the R32, so have some things that would make great content. Maybe I just start bringing camera with me again and filming where I can 🤷‍♂️

@@roguearttuning yeah totally life happens but you could probably get a bunch more viewers with the r32 or the Silvia because there arnt many people doing that type of stuff to cars on TH-cam and would love to see Subaru content to if you do start back just know I’ll watch them so

@@roguearttuning yeah will watch for sure I’m thinking of buying and second gen wrx

@@roguearttuning Are you allowed to film costumer cars?

@@kaboom1077 pretty much all my videos are customer cars. You talked me into it btw. I vlogged a stock turbo 19 STi Thurs/Fri w/ pretty much full bolt ons minus intercooler and turbo. Made good power but clutch started to slip on ethanol. So I still need to upload and edit but maybe I'll have it up in a few days. Did 332 whp/382 wtq on 93 and 374 whp/449 wtq on E77 w/ slipping clutch

You can do that but we're using an electronic boost control solenoid. Just a solenoid that diverts a certain amount of air (based on tuning) from the wastegate to hold it more closed.

I always wear a seatbelt and always have. As years as a tech and tuner, you kinda get out of the habit of throwing one on immediately every time you get in a car because there are a lot of cars that you don't actually put on the road. Theres no point putting on a belt to put a car in the lot or put on other side of the shop, or on a dyno. So every now and then I don't realize for a minute or two, but even that is a rarity. I think it was a little blown out of proportion honestly.

For 280-300 whp, I'd do a few things. Most of them you could even use stock upgrades. Get some 06+ wrx/sti injectors (commonly known as Dark Blues, they're 565s), fuel pump, upgraded top mount (even am OEM STi would be a nice upgrade), and a stock STi turbo. You could use a VF39, or the later VF43, but personally I'd go VF48 from the newer gen. That with a downpipe and a good intake will easily do over 300 whp on pump gas. Best intake hands down is the Cobb SF, it moves way more air and has better intake temps than everything else by far.

Feel free to contact the Rogue Art Tuning page on IG or FB if you need any help with mods or want any remote tuning done.

@@roguearttuning thank you for the advice, i had almost exactly that planned. do you think i would benefit at all from running an ewg with this setup?

Stock 550s on later models max around 300-320 whp, sometimes a few more. Warlbro 255 is fine but I've come to prefer the AEM 340 to everything smaller than a 450. If you're looking for 400 whp, you'll need like ID1050x injectors and a turbo that can move way more air than a Stock one. Even the new STi turbos run out of steam around 360-370 whp with full bolt ons, and about 380-390 whp on E85

@@roguearttuning i put a ej207 ra jdm , did the ej205 crower parts, guides valves springs viton seals with std cams just done 3,100klm iag sump kit , big torque great video helps me i am 68yo .

there is no need for extra wires

Its obviously not, its a Skyline Sedan GTS-4. But calling it a GTR Sedan is easier than saying its a Skyline Sedan GTS-4 with the motor/trans/diffs/HICAS/brakes from a GTR with a GTR front end

@@roguearttuning oh okay

So catted downpipe will help with sound and raspyness, won't affect power too much. The Cobb downpipe is fantastic but is a little more expensive. A 3 port is nice, its just a better way of metering air than the 2 port factory style, so controlling boost can be a little easier. Fuel pump i recommend pretty much stage 2 and up. Not necessarily needed for stage 2, but even at that level youre starting to push the OE injectors, might as well give them all the help they can get

@@roguearttuning awesome, thanks.

This was a bit ago now, if I remember correctly the motor wasn't original but was still stock, but the TD04 was original with chassis and had 260k miles on it 😅😅 held up well honestly and he's had no issues with it since

@@roguearttuning yup.. td04 suprisingly held up pretty good from all these years of abuse... While my vf30 on previous setup shortlived with cracked rear housing and dead shaft bearing about 5years ago i think.. lol

Also i found out by running parallel fuel setup, walbro 255 and adjustable fuel pressure regulator, i bump the base fuel pressure at around 45psi to compensate high duty cycle... And atleast on hot day it maxed out at 90% peak and usually it hover around 85-87% peak duty...

It does he some head work but I honestly dont remember all the little details. Been a bit now since I've touched this one

Its been daily driven since this video without a single issue

@@roguearttuning hell yeah! I’m building my wrx right now and a lot of people have told me just sell it cause it’ll just blow

bro i'm tired of everyone telling me this.@@nathansmith9812

Still going strong?@@roguearttuning

Even running stage 2 power figures it stretches out what the OEM pump can run. Stock turbo, 19ish psi it can keep up, but barely.

Thanks a bunch! I double check every dyno tune on the street after. Sometimes its slightly different off dyno, and you can really do low load driveability tuning very well on the dyno normally, so I usually street tune, throw on dyno for wide open throttle, then test on street again

Idk if I just dont have enough content or aren't consistent enough or what, but I actually get that question a bit. I always try to get more into making videos and end up too busy and put them on backburner. Ill keep trying to put some thing though, even if its somewhat irregular

It reads pretty close to the local Dynojets I've used. Little more than a Mustang

I normally do. There was one clip in here I did not but that's not a regular thing

I do. You can email me at stew@roguearttuning.com or DM us at facebook.com/roguearttuning

I cant remember off top of my head, I will ask. It does have the KillerB spoolinator kit which adapts any v-band big turbo to stock location too which is pretty sick

Agreed. The 04-05 STi has seemed to hold up the best over the years and easily has the strongest rear diff of them all. And I think the 06-07 STi is the best looking of them all.

Rogue Art Tuning 2007 sti is a car I’d like to collect one day

If I were to purchase another, Id do exactly the same

Bugeye ftw!

Yes! I support every Cobb platform. I dont have much experience with VW or BMW, but still support them as well.

Im based out of Orlando and travel to Tampa regularly. I can also come out to like Jax/Miami areas if we can put together a few cars

Driving on dyno trips out ABS and shuts all that off. Goes right back to normal. As soon as you pull off. Customer loved it but wanted a little more. Came back for headers, 1050x injectors, Radium FPR, and Cobb fuel pressure diff kit. Retuned and it made about 360/390. Cant remember exact figures off top of head. But that was about 4 months ago since update and has had no issues

@@roguearttuning Kewl.....thank you.