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I never got the hang of wheelies, so no idea. But it did decrease the amount of rotation needed so it might help.

The rules I was hoping to race in did not allow internal modifications, or that weight would have been gone!

Mine was extremely weak, I could stand on it and barely get it to function. I figured it would be enough to trail brake at the track with little risk of losing the rear tire. It needs more mechanical advantage on the brake piston, slightly longer lever.

@@minigpracing3068 same here but I use my bike for wheelies so I need that rear break to work 😭😭 thanks for the reply I emailed the seller

@@jayppop3333 do you use the foot pedal for those or a hand control? With the foot pedal, you are screwed. I sat and stared at it for a long time and the only way to fix it is make another pedal lever that will do what you need. I've sold my z125 so I can't even give recommendations anymore. Seems like it would be easy to chomp out of some aluminum on a small mill though.

@@minigpracing3068 lucky I'm a machinist maybe I can make something work 😢 damn fuck these guys haha I can't believe they still sell these on Amazon

@@minigpracing3068 support told me to look at your video for install 🤣

I've barely even looked at my 125 in years, after the drunk hit me I haven't ridden but once. All the racing around me has stopped so I should probably just sell this little guy. From what I remember, the filter is just a screen, and I think (might be wrong) it is located behind the right side engine cover. I just checked my website and didn't see any articles on cleaning the screen, not positive on the procedure.

Thanks. I ended up selling it last summer, all the racing near me ended and after the crash with the drunk I still have problems with quick head movements. My poor Harley has been sitting on a jack for more than 2 years, and my Buell is also just sitting under a tarp.

@@minigpracing3068 Hope you continue with a successful recovery and get back on the bikes soon dude. You definitely have a knack for wrenching on them and thanks again for the videos, saved my ass. Especially the ratchet strap trick to hold the engine in place, man reading that in the instructions scared me lol

Mines tight also but it doesn't engage so the rear break doesn't work unless I'm standing on it trying to fix it

@@jayppop3333 i put the stocks back on. As good as they look i kept function over form. I just have them sitting in the garage in a box somewhere now.

@@bry954rr damn that sucks

@@bry954rr I contacted the seller maybe I can find a fix I'll let you know

@@jayppop3333 theres a review on amazon that he replaced the spring to a longer one. I ran into after i i put the stocks back on. Dont really care for it anymore. Im over it.

Amy, An auto choke is nice because you generally won't need to mess with it. It will activate when cold and open when warm. For manual choke, you need to set it when you start the motor. As the motor heats up you will need to adjust the choke open to keep the motor running and then when fully warm you can completely open the choke. It can make riding a little tricky for the first few minutes until warm enough that choke is no longer needed. I've had vehicles with both manual and automatic choke, the auto choke is easier to use.

My guess would be a damaged shift shaft, but just a guess. Disconnect the Arashi linkage and make sure the pedal moves freely. Also make sure the shift shaft moves freely too, you should be able to turn the shift shaft linkage with firm pressure from your fingers or thumb. Don't forget to rock the bike a little while doing this so the teeth can engage. Also make sure the linkage between the pedal and the shift shaft is not hanging up on anything like the nut on the end of the pedal.

Same thing on mine when I first did this job, I forgot a small part in the center of the clutch, pretty sure I go back and show putting it in. I'd take a look there first. Also make sure the cable didn't come off up at the grip and that you have a small amount of freeplay in the cable, not a bunch. Any free play over 1/8 inch is too much. You can check the clutch by pulling on the lever on the side of the engine, if it is really hard to pull, then it is most likely a cable problem. If not, someone at the z125owners forum should be able to help and you can post pictures there (after 10 posts) so everyone can look and see if they spot the issue. I've barely even looked at mine in two years now, so things are a little foggy.

Yup! That's why I left it in the video.

@@minigpracing3068 how’s clutch holding up so far? Installing mine tomorrow and gonna follow your video (ps: anything else you could recommend after the fact? )

@@sambumanglag6432 Be very careful on the first trip out! Mine set in a lot and I had to pull into a parking lot to reset the cable because I could no longer pull the lever to disconnect the plates. Haven't done much more since for a few different reasons, the biggest reason was the head on in the car with a drunk. The "local" racing I was building this for also evaporated so my motivation has been really low.

@@minigpracing3068 oh wow seriously? I’m sorry to hear about this’ hopefully things will get better for you soon my friend. I’ll be checking on this cable reset issue for sure. Thanks for sharing your help

@@sambumanglag6432 Thanks, and thanks for watching. I should mention that at least one other person on the Z125 forum mentioned the cable needing adjustment within a very short ride, so I don't think it had anything to do with the bearing that I originally forgot to put back in.

I noticed the same thing but he goes back and puts it in

I made those by welding some 7/8 inch tube to some 34mm tubes. Then just cheapo clip ons. The clutch cable isn't great, I have one for the KLX110 that should clean it up, but I have even started the motor this year, so mods and stuff are not really happening.

2005 Electra Glide Ultra Classic.

@@minigpracing3068 very nice, I have an 06’ RoadGlide FLTR1

@@markbostic4706 Same frame and maybe several parts are the same. It is halfway torn down to fix a leaking seal on the transmission output shaft, most of the primary is off now but having trouble finding motivation to get back to this job. Already have hours of video I'll need to chop down, that nut on the compensator was really tight!!! Finally got it done but thought I was going to break the breaker bar doing it.

@@minigpracing3068 it’s great that you do all your own wrenching.... I use too but I’m getting to old to get motivated like that so pay other people to do it now.. supports the economy and everything right!?!?

I don't remember if I did or did not. If you are going to then use the lower strength blue stuff. Certainly won't hurt to apply some.

@@minigpracing3068 yah I got the clutch side in yesterday, now break side. I use blue locktite as the screws come off pretty quickly if I don't.

Should be able to get my email from the about tab for my channel.

no sir no email anywhere here

@@airpower7692 hmmm... It was there a couple weeks ago, I'll have to look into it and see what's going on.

I just checked it on a computer, looks like they won't show the contact info in a mobile app. That's a real pain. On a computer you should see a "view email address" button that you have to click, it should then display. You'll need to be signed into your account too.

@@minigpracing3068 ok will do tomorrow

Truthfully, yes. Its a good upgrade or at least for most of the people that did this mod. The stock springs give very light feel. The only way I wouldn't do this is if you had a strength issue in your left hand.

14:59 spin master cylinder adjustment all the way down. The brakes work differently than OEM...all the best.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to get back on this bike until next Spring, lots of work left to do too.

How did you adjust it ?

I don't remember, and this carb isn't even where I'm living right now so I can't easily check. Sorry.

For the amount I've been able to use them, yes they are good. The back brake is the only real issue, it doesn't have much mechanical advantage so it doesn't apply a lot of force on the master cylinder.

Definitely a very good set especially the brakes which connect directly to the master cylinder billet end.

My it doesn't even brake well... the piece of metal is too flexible

Yeah, hoping that I'll be able to ride again this summer, then I'll figure out what needs to be done for the brake issue. It really is a problem, the only good part is you will never e able to lock the back wheel with the brake, I've tried and even standing on the pedal it won't produce enough pressure to lock it.

Thanks. Hoping that I'll be able to get back on my bikes this season. Lots of things I want to do to the mini's.

You are not holding the torque wrench correctly. Hold the handle on the end. Any other location and the torque will not be correct.

Laying down gently will have nothing the same as a crash, not worth the effort. With the axle and passenger peg sliders installed, the only other thing that will hit is the clipons. And again, won't tell anyone how well it will survive the impact.

Yes, I do agree.

On an R1, no idea. Never owned one. In order to flip the pivot on the shift shaft, you'd need room to flip it and room to run the rod through. You could maybe flip the toe lever so that the rod connects on top. I looked at this on mine, and maybe it can be done. Except the rod will probably interfere with your foot. Just a guess since I don't have that bike to see the layout.

@@minigpracing3068 yea its my brothers bike..i gotta zx10 and zx14 gp shift easy

Yes it should, pretty sure a few of the guys on the forum have done this on their 17.

Thank you so much for your most helpful video and kind tips on using this product, I'm sure everyone will benefit from this assistance. I know I have.

I actually had it written on a paper that you can see in the Trex slider "review", but I couldn't read it on my tablet. Looked in the service manual and it says 44 inch pounds which is pretty light. Most people could apply this with the screw driver handle and a tight grip.

Sorry I haven't done more videos lately. Was in a car crash last October and haven't been right since. Haven't even started any of my bikes since then due to the lingering problems. Not sure if I'll ever heal enough to ride again.

Mini GP Racing oh man, sorry to hear. You’re guidance has been a big help, and I hope you can continue to find joy in being around bikes to some capacity. If not being on one, maybe coaching. You’re videos are really good.

Also, been there once before. I had a really bad snowboarding accident where I couldn’t walk properly without my hip clicking. Took a couple of years and a lot of PT to get back to form. I think initially, it’s really hard to get out of the mental/motivation funk to do anything. Then once you find out how capable you are, you kinda work on things slowly.

@@minigpracing3068 oh noooo...so sorry my dude ....blessings and healing power🙏🏾

@@suspensefulness thanks. Still hoping to be back on the road and track this Spring.

I just approved it, thought I had done this a few weeks ago but maybe I didn't, not really sure.

That is a cheap one from eBay or Amazon. That is one of the missing projects, lost some recordings and just haven't put that one together. Requires drilling some holes. Makes a small difference when you are tucked down behind it.