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Def a matter of shame - I was already using this piece and took it apart for the video. Couldn't find my wrench while reassembling!

If you can find me someone who sells and ships foxxmounts or Monstertech to Asia for less than $400 for 2 mounts, let me know.

@@thelungilife6057 @The Lungi Life g'day mate. Great video, don't mind this hater. Ive read through all of your comments and I've finally managed to find some alternatives to bits and pieces you mentioned. One question I did have is about the larger rubber clamp end you have (the black one on the Bessey clamp). Seems like having a larger foot print like you have would contribute to making the whole thing nice and sturdy like yours. Again, awesome build it's pretty much identical to any pre-built stuff for a fraction of the price. I'm in Australia and they'll cost me $100 to make each which is still 200-300 cheaper than the monsters or Foxx.

@@Darkhorse77777 thanks buddy - best is to head to a shelving maker, and get those feet. The tiny orange Bessey clamp feet are not great. The big rubber ones are super cheap - I believe they were 8 Singapore dollars each. They're just industrial shelf unit feet.

I sent my drawings to a local fabrication yard - they cut the base plates. I mean, if you have a CNC or acetylene torch, go for it. But I'd trust a pro, and they won't charge you much.

@@neerajsoman Thanks for the info!

It's the only strictly European component. Their labour costs are insane. I mean, I am happy their people are paid a living wage - but as a consumer, waa waa wee wa...

Hey! So, I got the 3060 from a cabinet maker - they drilled in the M8 threads for me. All comms over email. For the plates, I drew them out in smartdraw (See the files in the description), and emailed them to the machinist/metal shop. It took one or two back-and-forths to explain - esp drilling countersinks.

Lol, Ikr? I got a lot of shit for that on Reddit. Was being incredibly lazy.

Bolting together 2 pieces of pre-formed profile and a clamp is not "design" - or else they would have patented it. I drew out and cut my own custom bases - better than theirs, and made a video about how to do it cheaply, with parts descriptions. Definitely more effort than a shitty comment on YT.

@@thelungilife6057 nah mate, I'm actually building a whole standing frame from 4080 extrusion, cutting, drilling, and making my own mounting plates as opposed to having someone else make them. Directly coping a brand's exact design isn't rocket science, but you shouldn't pretend that you came up with it. Especially when you apparently don't have the skill to use a tap yourself for the holes in the frame, don't know how to use loctite, and you use a set of pliers instead of a socket set or a wrench to tighten down the nuts for the clamp like a cave man... But somehow I'm expected to think you're capable of making the rest of it... Let alone those base plates which require more machining then you're even capable of considering you said your "machinist" did the threading... Maybe keep your story straight instead of acting like you did any of the actual work yourself. The inconsistencies in your story and aggressive reply are all I need to know. Clearly I hit the nail on the head to begin with since my original comment was beyond tame, but since you want to be a prick about it, I can come right back at ya chap. Have a nice day ;)

The lengths are really up to you, as your desk and chair dimensions will determine how low and how far down you want your stick/throttle. The vertical is very adjustable, so that's less important than the horizontal piece length. Mine are 250mm vertical, 50mm horizontal. .

Good question! Honestly, I just asked them to provide me with steel plates, instead of aluminium. I only used aluminium 3060 profiles. Point is, for those plates you want the material to be as stiff as possible. The profiles' complex structure keeps them stiff. But for plates - steel has about 3x of aluminium's Young's modulus. You'll have less play in your setup that way (and it's not like weight matters a whole lot, unless your desk is flimsy).

@@thelungilife6057 Ohh ok. Alright I’ll try to look them up and see if they can come up with something for me. You wouldn’t happen to have plate drawings for a Virpil Warbrd base and Virpil CM2 throttle would you..

@@Jiterator ah, no,.unfortunately. should be easy enough to find dimensions on their website though!

@@thelungilife6057 Heh no worries. I'm sure I can find something in the forums. Thanks for all the help!

@@Jiterator how did you go with these base plates? I'm about to purchase 2x warbrd base with constellation alphas and i want to give this build a go! I was thinking about tracing the base plates and then transferring into illustrator

A machined base plate is not different than a hand made base plate. You just use a different set of tools to get the profile cut to your preferred shape. You can cut it with a coping saw if you want, the end shape is going to be as good as you can make it with hand tools. If you live in any city, you can quite easily find a place to machine a simple base plate for cheap. I mean he paid $8 for the cutting, so not exactly "exotic"

Then you missed the part where I bought all those components for 1/8th the cost of MonsterTech locally, and drew the plates/got them cut, too. Read video descriptions, it'll save you some embarrassment.

@@neerajsoman Well, that doesn't change the fact that this is a clear ripoff of an existing design and that you didn't even have the guts to at least mention where you get it from in this video. This would have make it completely acceptable then. If someone should be embarrassed, that's you who let believe all those people that you were a mechanical genius where you were just a copycat. Anyway, I appreciate the effort to find the parts and reference them.

@@guillaumegaillet4066 it's not the same design. I don't use the same internal bolt attachments, but L brackets. Literally the only part of this in common with Monster-Tech is a third party clamp not designed by monster-tech anyway, but by Bessey. But I guess embarrassed ignorant troll's gotta troll.

Ah, I'm afraid you're on your own for that. I found the orange/red caps to be a bit slippery. I got industrial shelf legs with matching M8 insertion screws, from a local shelf/cabinet shop.

@@neerajsoman oh I got it mate, thank you :D

Excellent comment

Really, really depends. It was 10-20 bucks, depending on complexity of the base plate. However, I'm in Asia. Even if Singapore ( where I am) is relatively more expensive than most of Asia, it's still cheaper than Europe/North America.

Left intentionally a bit loose at this point, as you'll need to adjust the height of your stick once you mount the baseplate anyway. It's just on there at this point for ease of assembly.

@@neerajsoman Thankyou! And one more question, is there any reason I couldn't use a square baseplate of wood?

@@bennuwa wood works as well - I used 8mm model airplane plywood in my initial build. Model airplane plywood has thinner and more layers for the same thickness as carpentry plywood, and is stronger but more expensive. Though, that's the absolute minimum thickness of plywood that works without flexing, and I'm not sure how long it would last.

@@neerajsoman Thanks! I have another question, what size have you made the holes on the baseplates, for the four corners of the thruster/joystick? Your diagram says '7' but that seems way too large. How big are the holes on the devices themselves and surely any size would work so long as a screw/bolt can fit through the hole on the devices? Please let me know. Thanks

@@bennuwa those are 5mm, which I believe also works for Virpil sticks. The 7 is the countersink size - it's showing up weirdly cause I used cheap drawing software, heh.

Hi, did you end up making an instructional video yourself??! I'd love to see it if so!

Basically means a 30mm x 60 mm profile. 4080 is 40mmx80mm. You can use that too, and get the appropriate bits, but you'd actually be better off going down to 2040, instead of going up to 4080. I think Foxxmounts uses 2040, and it seems to work okay - I doubt any person is strong enough to really flex any of these profiles! Any flex will likely come from your baseplate, as long as your clamp is tight.

Vielen Dank! Das ist gut fur Europa, aber der Versand nach Asien kostet 60 Euro. Sorry for the out of practice Deutsche ;)

@@neerajsoman Das ist sehr schade! PS: Dein Deutsch ist super!

Unfortunately, that's going to be hard as I live in Singapore. If you're outside Asia, you're going to have to do your own research I'm afraid. Though if you're in Asia, best to get on Alibaba and put out a request for proposal, and you'll be flooded with options. If not, best to go to your nearest metal fabrication yard (like FMB in Singapore) - window fabricators will have all of this stuff. They may even give you these pieces practically for free as they'll be scrap cutoffs too small to use. Metal yard will also have a variety of rubber feet - the thread diameter is standardized.

@@neerajsoman Yeah. In Asia, but not SE Asia. Was hoping the links would at least point to the same thing as presented in the video (i.e. Bessey Clamp). Other Aluminum/metal parts, gonna have to research locally to see what's out there. The THREADING on the inner pieces may be a challenge to find a place to do it.

Bessey clamp.can be found on Amazon at the link below. If you are able to source the aluminium profile, it's highly likely the shop or fabricating yard would help you with the thread tapping too. I just asked the machinist there. www.amazon.sg/dp/B0057PUFMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_eac9FbH17AS3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@@neerajsoman Yeah, I can find the Bessey, but the HEAD PART (Black) that he has on his in this video actually looks like it'd be a lot more secure. I dunno if that was some custom fitting he did. Plus, considering hard to get 75mm of Profile, I guess I'd go with 100mm for the future adjustability and stableness of the mount. I haven't been able to find any good source of Aluminum profile in Japan, and what's on Amazon is extremely overkill in price. Could get it from Aliexpress, but up to 60 days to deliver.... Dunno where there's a shop that could do the threading inside the profile as well. There's 3060A and 3060B series. I'm not sure the difference and if that impacts the rest of the parts on his list that interacts with it.

If you're in Japan, then it may actually be easier for me to ship you the profiles and plates as a kit. It's just shipping to EU/NA that's problematic. Cost of labour in Japan is going to be super high, consequently, plate cutting and profile cutting will cost a lot, locally.

Makes sense if you're in Asia/Middle East. One-time shipping of metal bits to Europe/North America gets expensive. It would work out only marginally less or about the same if you got Foxxmounts while in the US or Monstertech if in Europe, if I ship a single unit or a pair rom Singapore to those places.

Thanks for responding i bought the fox mounts last night

5mm works - I tried 3mm on the joystick plate and that flexed a fair bit. 5mm is totally rigid. I still use 3 mm plate on my throttle though - the slight vertical flex is actually quite nice for the throttle. But I use an X56 throttle which is pretty light. Would use 5mm for the Mongoos or any metal throttle.

Smartdraw - it's a cloud based SaaS thing.

@@thelungilife6057 Thanks a lot!

It's why I'm also using longer T-bolts. It's not a perfect fit, and they're slightly canted outwards. Doesn't really affect the purchase; not wobbly.

@@neerajsoman Makes sense! Again thanks for your project. I'll try to find 4080 compatibility and see how it goes.

Largely the adjustability and flexibility. Basically, the bessey clamp isn't quite as fussy as others. Others will require you to endlessly fine-tune the gap. Also, whichever clamp you get, try to get as wide a clamp "foot" as possible - you'll end up with less pressure on your furniture and get a more stable hold.

@@neerajsoman Thanks, that makes sense. I wonder if a clamp "foot" can be customized/attached. And if that affects stability. Will see when it arrives.

@@Spelljammer1 absolutely - this isn't the original bessey clamp foot in the video. That works fine too, but I had a couple of spares from an old shelving unit. Just find one that fits the thread, and it screws in.

@@neerajsoman It looks like I'll have to go for a 4080 extrusion to accommodate my clamp (scared that they gave me a '41mm hole width measurement!). Too bad that means I can't recycle your mounting plate diagrams. :)

I live in Asia, so stuff is generally easier/cheaper to source. But Home Depot's window section, or better, any small window/doorframe/prefab house manufacturer locally would work. They'll likely have tons of aluminium extrusion scraps lying around that they'll sell cheaply.

Thank you for the super quick reply. I saw the doc files after I asked and saw you were in Singapore. Thanks again for the quick reply. This is definitely what I want to build, don’t want to pay $300 for monstertech mounts.... just too much imho

Yeah, I can afford it but the price of "convenience" is far too high for Monster-tech / foxxmounts, when you consider how easy this build is. Not to mention missing out on enjoying something you've built yourself.

Link to a sheet with costs is in the description :) This is significantly cheaper to build in Asia (where I am), because the materials and plate cutting costs are very low. Bottom line is that Monster-tech only makes sense if you're in the EU. Their shipping costs outside the EU are insane. They don't seem to understand the volume of orders they're missing out on if they negotiate better shipping terms, or even set up a production unit in Asia to serve markets outside the EU.

It's a great idea - but I have a pretty expensive electric adjusting desk that I wouldn't want to drill into! May think of doing a few quick mods to your design to make it a little less permanent. Would really like to take a look at drawings if you have any.

@@thelungilife6057 now, that's only my opinion, but... who cares on how the under side of the desk looks like? No one is even seeing it :-) But.... I understand.... ;-)

They do not have them on their own webpage or forum as a part of their documentation? I think I saw them there when I was interested in their stuff. If not so, go to the DCS forum and ask there - quite a lot of cockpit builders and jet-jockeys, so most likely at least somebody knows

Bolts are very close to the clamp - couldn't fit my socket wrench over the bolts unfortunately.

@@thelungilife6057 may be use a wrench??? As a mechanic it hurts to watch! :-P