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There was IMO nothing wrong that that tap. What you thought was ground off is what a non bottoming tap is supposed to look like. Nor did it look dull.

Is that tap a 3/8-24?

Looks good. That's how you learn, think something up and do it. Keep at it , it will turn out fine.

The hunters star would go on the cheek rest . A grease hole would be the only appropriate thing on the other side of the stock.

FANTASTIC WORK & DESIGN!!

0000 steel wool between coats worked for me.

I did 4 coats and its holding well after several years of club shoots

you are doing a great job

I appreciate the time and effort put into this. I think it is fantastic to see people putting this kind of effort and talent into the build. To have some style and class in a build speaks volumes of the craftsman .

Where did you get the stencils for this

Stain sits on TOP of the wood. To make the grain stand out, I'd use TransTint Dye. Maybe a mix of Dark Walnut and Reddish Brown (like 10 drops of Dark Brown, and 5 drops of Reddish brown per Ounce of denatured alcohol). Then use an oil finish. Just my $.02. The Browning is easy. I've used the Birchwood Casey stuff, and it turned out nicely. Fun project. You did well on the carvings...braver than I was.

Use an alcohol based stain

Beautiful carving , but I think you should have spent that time on your metal to wood fit. Nice work though.

That's looking good. Nice job.

I used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown for my barrel and its held up extremely well. I dont have any other experiance though. I put a long piece of round stock in a vise as a pilot/support rod. Heated with a torch till the surface moisture was gone. I put 4 coats on and used 0000 steel wool between coats.

Bone black for darkening

Don’t loss faith brother….. we all start somewhere….👍

Patch box ….. rather than hunter star.!!!

“ measuring once and swearing twice”. My new favorite quote……when build a smoke pole…….!!!!😂

"I sound like a female Swimmer."..LOL 🤣...I almost drowned on my scotch...golden

Don’t sell yourself short, this looks amazing!

This is super cool, what wood did you use for the stock?

Took me about 2 hours for a friend of mine to guide me in the right direction

Part numbers? OEM kit number 27273 is tough to find, I see they have a 57273, perhaps updated kit? What is part number for spare Lisle 'tap' ?

Ok i have a broken one in 06 town sbd county van 3.5 what do i use get it out

You all love your Fords, still?

Spark plugs 5.4

I made it with only breaking 2 with over 130,000 miles on the plugs. Sucks, but I’m so glad it wasn’t 8. I would’ve started tying up a rope if it would’ve been all 8…

I have the 4.6 in a 2005 f150 am I going to have the same difficulty?

Did you soak them or heat your engine up?

Day 3 two broken plugs out. 2007 F350 no room and can’t see. The Lyle press must be pushed in all the way or the tap will not grab. Had to tapper the tap on a grinder and press down real hard with a 2x4. Back plugs are a nightmare. I made a drill guide out of the old plug but the cobalt drill was no match for the porcelain.

youve got the most updated Lisle tool with the 4 grooves around the shaft of the extractor... im surprised it got too dull after just 2 plugs... ive done 4 plugs so far with same extractor... i did the warm engine, 1/8 turn,,, then soak for a few hours and socket wrench-all 4 broke so im going to try warm engine, impact wrench on the last 4... be so glad when this is over. Thanks for making video

Your poor tortured soul I can imagine the lump you had in your throat 😢

I broke 3. Still trying to get 2 out. Using oem tool now after bending the pusher twice on cheap ebay lisle tool.

I just want to cry that I was dumb enough to buy one of these junk motors.

That's funny a fridge full of beer or a cabinet full of liquor!

Hilarious ....but so true! Love the pile of sticks idea!

That tap is "worn" by design. Known as a "plug tap," the first 3-5 threads are ground/tapered even brand new. By contrast, a "bottoming tap" only tapers something like the first thread or so. Actually, having both would be excellent for this application because you could start with the tapered plug, back it out, and make sure you have as many threads as possible by using a bottoming tap in the threads you started with the first one. Now... I imagine these are specifically sized for this tool so they MAY have to be made. (Stock bottoming tap cut flush then welded to the right size shaft.) Of course, this is for anyone who has a garage and the means to weld and modify a bit. But that would be my suggestion. After 7+ years of this topic being posted, the consensus seems to be to heat the engine up first. Use neverseize high temp if you plan on keeping the truck-on the threads and a small amount on the sleeve internal to the combustion chamber. (I am leary of zinc in there, but many say to do it anyway.) Impact at a throttled state- not full-bore torque. Make sure your wells are blown out / cleaned before removing the coils, and again after removing them. Check coil boots for deformation due to oil from valve cover gaskets, and replace if swollen / deformed- this condition has been blamed for arc misfires. I have the 2006 4.6L and have NOT done this... yet. All my troubleshooting has exposed no other possible problem, and at 95k miles is definitely is missing. Another mechanic had .060" gaps on a 145k engine with original plugs. My approach will be to warm, crack all to a half turn, soak with [Ford, if I can get it,] carb cleaner, and while still warm (contrary to what Ford suggests, which is to let it sit over night,) back them out one by one using a Kobalt torque driver OFF of the impact setting. And... pucker factor 10: hopefully I won't be making love to the engine bay for three days trying to finish all 8 plugs.

This may sound like BS, but every now and then with enough lube, you can disable the fuel pump so the engine won't start then crank it a few times. Sometimes the compression will push out the porcelain intact and twice I've had it push the whole sleeve out. It doesn't hurt a thing and it only takes a minute to try it. Plus you're not sending a ton of crap into the cylinder.

Oh my god why is this so funny?💀💀💀

I paid $108 deposit to use the removal kit. All 8 plugs came out, each unbroken in one piece, Praise GOD! Two days later returned kit and got my money back. It wouldn't profit me anything to lie, so I tell the truth.

I have f150 4x4 pick up ,Ford 2door, I broke the last new spark plug .how do I take it out

Hahaha, that is a good technique! :-)

Avoid breaking these. 1. Impact wrench with at least 120ft pounds 2. Get the engine to operating temp 3. Full send 4. Break none 5. Beer

I have a 2007 5.4 and the spark plugs were changed about 2000km ago. I had a misfire in cylinder 2 and pulled out the spark plug but the sleeve was not on it. I cannot see it in the cylinder. Is it possible that the whole piece feel down further?

Great review! Have a question - is there a die you could use to rethread that tap?

Great video which direction does the tap and extractor screw into the sleeve of the spark plug clock wise or counter clock wise

Once again another of FORD'S "BETTER IDEAS".

Im really praying this don't happen to me.great video very helpful

This is depressing as Hell but super helpful as far as removing the broken ones. But all eight! I hope I have better luck. Thanks for the video and the advice!