The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor blade is already sharp to do the job. Not just talk. I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade).
I've got drips from my sprayer (my fault,too much paint ),will this method work on base coat or is wet sanding with 800 grit my best bet ? I know I will have to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat since I already let the base coat dry. What do you suggest ?..,thanks.
Great skill to watch. Thanks. I've got a de-nibbing question. I work at home and do the best I can to clean before painting and keep the garage as dust free as possible. Of course, I often end up with a lot of nibs right across my clearcoat. Usually I denib more or less one at a time, but sometimes there's too many for that to be practical (like today with a hood). I'm wondering what your best approach would be based on what I have to hand. I have hand papers up to p7000; I have 1,2 and 3000 soft back disks, and dry paper disks up to 10k. BTW I use 1K Acrylic Lacquer all the way (it's much more convenient for a home system) so it's relatively soft for up to 30 days compared to 2K. What approach would you recommend? Hand sand all spots? Whole panel? Rotary or DA sand? What grit progression. I usually finish with range of Megiars compounds and polishes and scratch removers. I really want to avoid re-flowcoating.Thanks in advance.
Look into Xtreme Solutions products out of NJ. They have a ton of compound and polish choices that might not directly attack one item, but might give you more options on your follow-up work.
Great info and the best video I've seen so far on how to use the Clecos. When you Tig weld the panels , are you just fusion welding the two pieces together, or are you using a small filler rod ? I'm going to try a couple of welding methods with your instructions. I want to try acetylene gas fusion welding and Tig fusion welding just to see how it turns out. I prefer no filler rod if I don't need it, that way there is no extra heat introduced when grinding off welds. Hopefully I can get the perfect "no gap" butt weld. I think Jim Marriot was talking about the Cleco Bridge Clip style of attaching two pieces of metal together. I saw Lazze using these on one of his videos. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the knowledge !!
mate i listened to your advice and it is an excellent method. Warning to those who attempt this though, if you are scrapping paint as this method suggests, quarter panels and the like often have strange countours. So if you you are applying the razor ensure even the blunted edges are not close to another painted surface. Also, using an unmodified razor held perfectly flush against the run, and gently cutting off the main body of the run will save you an extensive time when using the scrape tool. I find that if you already have one, a knife sharpening stone of a similar grit to his, works excellently as a stiff sanding stone and can be cleaned easily in water. Good luck guys.
The flange edge /joggle tool is like 20 bucks. Just buy the tool and have a dead accurate overlap seam. Or do a actual buttweld without the clecos. No need for both. That approach demonstrated, being able to manipulate those tabs before and after, is pretty unlikely on your standard patch panel work. 90% of the time one piece is still fixed to the vehicle with limited working space.
I've been watching vids about this since last night, about a dozen so far. They all mentioned the razor blade method but this one goes the extra step to show how to smooth the corners & curve the razor blade. Excellent tutorial and now I'm going to try this on my black Jeep that I almost ruined with clearcoat runs. Thank you Sir. Gotta love TH-cam!
I dont know if anyone gives a damn but last night I hacked my gfs Instagram password using Instaplekt. You can find it by Googling if you wanna try it yourself
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor is already sharp to do the job.
Great job. I use the razor blade also. Great idea to bend the razor. Will try that now. I have the other products and pads from 3M. My Atlas is very difficult due to many sharp contours
thank you for that. im about to weld my first patch and I didn't want to use a full lap. this will allow me to use the clecos and still have a flush butt weld.
If you are removing some clear coat, why not just sand slightly the fender with 2500 grit and give it another coat of clear? Then once the clear coat cures, you can do the compounding and polishing?
Time and materials. Both cost a shop money. Re-clearing means two bake cycles, and possibly having to mask a panel twice. Bake cycles in a both cost a good bit so one can quickly sand a run and buff/ polish it without burning the paint its faster and cheaper than the alternative. Also, 2500g on a run would be way too fine. 1200-1500 to remove a run would be best for quick results and then finishing it with 2000g like shown in the video would be ideal.
Now we use 3 4 and 5000 grit to buff less. Took 10 years to learn that
So you're using the burr created from sanding one side of the razor blade to create the curve.
Ya, better watch out for that flying nib dust by wearing a safety mask! 🤣🤣🤣
😮
Thanks for showing how to lead without trying to sell those horrible Eastwood products. Simple and affective
Thanks man, that’s so useful!❤
Can I use an angle grinder?
@SPOOKSTR Funny guy
the blade technique really works.
Will this work on enamel paint on wood?
Does this concept apply to just the clear coat
Very informative. Camerawork a bit annoying
Even if you insist on clecos, try this instead: th-cam.com/video/_u31t13QO6A/w-d-xo.html
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor blade is already sharp to do the job. Not just talk. I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade).
I've got drips from my sprayer (my fault,too much paint ),will this method work on base coat or is wet sanding with 800 grit my best bet ? I know I will have to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat since I already let the base coat dry. What do you suggest ?..,thanks.
I SPRAY FLAT BLACK OVER IT WHEN UM CLOSE, THEN BLOCK IT, IT HELPS YOU GET IT PERFECT 👍💯💯💯🤝
Thank you to show this great work. It is very useful to know that technique at my current project I work on at my channel. Regards from Germany, Ralph
Great skill to watch. Thanks. I've got a de-nibbing question. I work at home and do the best I can to clean before painting and keep the garage as dust free as possible. Of course, I often end up with a lot of nibs right across my clearcoat. Usually I denib more or less one at a time, but sometimes there's too many for that to be practical (like today with a hood). I'm wondering what your best approach would be based on what I have to hand. I have hand papers up to p7000; I have 1,2 and 3000 soft back disks, and dry paper disks up to 10k. BTW I use 1K Acrylic Lacquer all the way (it's much more convenient for a home system) so it's relatively soft for up to 30 days compared to 2K. What approach would you recommend? Hand sand all spots? Whole panel? Rotary or DA sand? What grit progression. I usually finish with range of Megiars compounds and polishes and scratch removers. I really want to avoid re-flowcoating.Thanks in advance.
Look into Xtreme Solutions products out of NJ. They have a ton of compound and polish choices that might not directly attack one item, but might give you more options on your follow-up work.
This is what we in the UK would call 'a lot of faffing about'.
roughly how long does it take for the clear coat to harden enough to start this process? Is that yellow pad more or less aggressive than a wool pad?
Разумный подход к решению некоторых задач..... спасибо.
Thanks for showing me how I will be welding on my next panel!
Awesome,thanks
What a brilliant video. Cool tip about shaping the razor blade. Many thanks.
That's 3-4 steps more than I do, and I don't have tabs to trim later. Ever try wingnut clamps?
Great info and the best video I've seen so far on how to use the Clecos. When you Tig weld the panels , are you just fusion welding the two pieces together, or are you using a small filler rod ? I'm going to try a couple of welding methods with your instructions. I want to try acetylene gas fusion welding and Tig fusion welding just to see how it turns out. I prefer no filler rod if I don't need it, that way there is no extra heat introduced when grinding off welds. Hopefully I can get the perfect "no gap" butt weld. I think Jim Marriot was talking about the Cleco Bridge Clip style of attaching two pieces of metal together. I saw Lazze using these on one of his videos. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the knowledge !!
mate i listened to your advice and it is an excellent method. Warning to those who attempt this though, if you are scrapping paint as this method suggests, quarter panels and the like often have strange countours. So if you you are applying the razor ensure even the blunted edges are not close to another painted surface. Also, using an unmodified razor held perfectly flush against the run, and gently cutting off the main body of the run will save you an extensive time when using the scrape tool. I find that if you already have one, a knife sharpening stone of a similar grit to his, works excellently as a stiff sanding stone and can be cleaned easily in water. Good luck guys.
Very nice, was surprised seeing a left hand tin snips in your right hand lol
So after you perform the but weld on the joint with the clecos and tabs in place . What do you do to eliminate the tabs and complete the weld?
The first reading I thing he was like wtf lol
The flange edge /joggle tool is like 20 bucks. Just buy the tool and have a dead accurate overlap seam. Or do a actual buttweld without the clecos. No need for both. That approach demonstrated, being able to manipulate those tabs before and after, is pretty unlikely on your standard patch panel work. 90% of the time one piece is still fixed to the vehicle with limited working space.
I've been watching vids about this since last night, about a dozen so far. They all mentioned the razor blade method but this one goes the extra step to show how to smooth the corners & curve the razor blade. Excellent tutorial and now I'm going to try this on my black Jeep that I almost ruined with clearcoat runs. Thank you Sir. Gotta love TH-cam!
I dont know if anyone gives a damn but last night I hacked my gfs Instagram password using Instaplekt. You can find it by Googling if you wanna try it yourself
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor is already sharp to do the job.
@@reborn74nova But he shows how to do what he recommends. Do you have a video showing your method? BTW, my attempt was a huge success.
@@ncognitod.460 I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade)
⁹I[p
Very good information clear and to the point..thank you
C'mon, that's not a butt weld. You really shouldn't be leading astray all the wannabes watching this stuff.
Rico, You should brush up on your weld type understanding.
Nice video but might want to take the ring off bro before you scratch the good part lol
Great job. I use the razor blade also. Great idea to bend the razor. Will try that now. I have the other products and pads from 3M. My Atlas is very difficult due to many sharp contours
I’m jealous. Take a look at the hood of a ‘16 Civic!
Great vid. The “kick up” is called a joggle btw.
And then weld? The seam and fill holes?
I guess im missing the point. What are these for? Temporary holding?..
I'd like to see how you do a whole fender, like they did in post-war Italy.
Turned out really good! Thanks for showing.
I wipe my butt with 2000.com
If you use a "soft" hammer, the shrinks can progress easier, with less tool marks. Wood, leather and plastic mallets work well.
thank you for that. im about to weld my first patch and I didn't want to use a full lap. this will allow me to use the clecos and still have a flush butt weld.
good job thanks
If you are removing some clear coat, why not just sand slightly the fender with 2500 grit and give it another coat of clear? Then once the clear coat cures, you can do the compounding and polishing?
Time and materials. Both cost a shop money. Re-clearing means two bake cycles, and possibly having to mask a panel twice. Bake cycles in a both cost a good bit so one can quickly sand a run and buff/ polish it without burning the paint its faster and cheaper than the alternative. Also, 2500g on a run would be way too fine. 1200-1500 to remove a run would be best for quick results and then finishing it with 2000g like shown in the video would be ideal.
My dick is more coarse than #2500
Dastardly XK120 that Herpes is like 500 grit, Lol
Clear ain’t cheap. Razors are cheap
nice informative video. chipmunk tombstone...chortle
Great job!!
Didn't think that was going to smooth out but good job.
You're the guy that did the series on the dual wheel street rod aren't you? you sound just like him.
so you' want to have the tabs on the new piece of body panel? Or does it really matter?