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They are not terribly expensive. In fact, I would have been much better off buying just buying an old one that is in better shape but it’s a family heirloom.

This is a No 5. I wish that I had a No 9 but you have to work with what have.

Yes. I had some gives, they were lovely gloves, wonderful, amazing; probably the best gloves ever.

It got hot

Cause its HOT!

@@SCHomestead ok just asking. Thought maybe it was bad for the blade.

@ nope. Just bad for my hands. 😁

Thanks for the tips. The tool dip on the steering wheel has work great so far but the stuff that I’ve done on the seat has not held up well. More on that to come.

I just finished the shooting and it cuts.. barely. I should have the video up in about two weeks. I’m editing the final part of the model M now and part two of the sickle bar is next.

Delayed due to storm damage but it should come out this week!!

I’m not at my pc but I looked it up on my phone. The service manual says 3 1/2 Qts. I’d post a picture of it but apparently that’s not an option on TH-cam. I agree that 3.5 gallons make A LOT more sense. Maybe in the fall, I’ll change it out and see for certain. Also, there is no filter in the hydraulic system. 🤨

When you say that you pull with it, are you competition sled pulling? (Tractor Pull)

This one has a ‘repair’ done on the front axle. I plan on widening it in the future but I do not look forward to it. I bet it is going to be all junked up.

Really!? I don't have plans to go that far into it but do you know why Aluminum pistons would cause a drop in power?

That’s not true at all. It all depends on the make of the pistons. My A makes way more power with aluminum pistons than it did with cast iron. Compression is a lot higher on the aluminum ones.

I have a hard time reconciling the material of the piston making a difference in power. The only thing that i can come up with is, maybe, the aluminum conducts heat to the coolant better/faster. Heat is energy; energy is power, but I have a hard time believing that you could tell the diff. I suspect that the difference in is the shape of the piston or the position of the wrist pin. I've worked with various steal, aluminum, and ceramic pistons. They all have their oddities, but I have found that their geometry is more important when it comes to power, but I could be wrong.

Why would I want to use Aluminum Pistons?? On a 2 cylinder engine, you want weight to keep inertia through the RPM cycle. That is why they put a VERY heavy flywheel in it.

It depends on the electronics of the voltage regulator. I’ve not researched the GM one wire ( really three wire ) regulator as I’ve not had one since my 84 Camaro so I’m not sure if it could operate in a positive ground orientation. Point is, I agree with you in principle; I’m pretty sure that it’s negative ground. Thanks for the comments! I appreciate the feedback!

but man let me tell you what, if you can get the tires to hook up AND keep the front end down, it will pull. The two cylinders fire one right after the other (120 degrees apart not 180) that combined with a very heavy flywheel and 4x4 bore and stroke make it a little powerhouse. Also on my list of things to revive/restore is a four disk turn plow. You'd never think that it would pull it but I saw my grandmother clear ditches with it in the 70's.

@@SCHomestead Wow that’s cool.

Thanks Raven!

I hope work is going well; YouTubing doesn't pay the bills. Sometimes I wish I could get a chicken sitter to give me a break from mine!! 😂

@@SCHomestead well one day it might. Lol. When we are both top trending we can rent chicken sitters and go for a weekend lol

My brother's TXT wiht Lithium tops out at 24. My RXV (which has a 3 phase mother controller) tops at 21 like it always has. The motor controller sets the speed but I do get more acceleration out of it.

Well now it's in. It's only about 1 MPH faster. But the torque up hills is way better. And off the line is faster. Charging time is incredibly faster. Well worth it. I'm on the fence if I should put the motor in and go bigger wheels and lift kit. It's a 2013 EZGO. I see good deals on used ones already with lifted with nice wheels. Then I just pay for the motor and lithium battery.

@@MichaelJosephJr934 Personally, I'd add bigger wheels and tires. My RXV is at stock height with 20X10 - 10 tires. My brother's cart is a TXT with a 4" lift (I'm not sure about the tires). Mine is much nicer getting in an out but his can go place mine can't plus it is a bit fast due to the tires.

@@zmikez What do you think the difference with be if I go to the 20x10s? I now have 18x850-8s. And I need new tires anyway.

👍🏼

I’ve done them in the past but they seldom work for my patter of speech.

The difference is in the BMS (Battery Maintenance System). If you have a number of cells (or batteries) in series and put a charge on them to charge them up, some cells (usually in the middle) will not get to a full charge. This is due to internal resistance of the cells themselves and/or the connections between them. Now when you discharge the battery, the cells that had a lower charge are discharged even lower than before. When the charger then tries to charge the battery back up, the cells that are at the upper end of the charge get over charged. This cycle continues until you exceed either the lowest threshold of the battery chemistry on the undercharged cells or exceed the highest threshold of the battery chemistry on the over charged cells. This example is of what is happening in each battery. (A 12v battery is made up of 6 cells. Roughly 2v per cell in a lead-acid battery) When we expand that single 12v, 6 cell battery out to 4 batteries, the failure probability expands beyond the realm of possibility into the realm of probability. The Lead-Acid chemistry batteries of old don't have a BMS for several reasons. Cost vs battery life, robustness of the L-A chemistry, ans so on. I do however know of a few people back in teh day that built their own BMS systems and extended the life of their L-A batteries but in the end, due to the fact that each L-A battery has multiple cells internally, they still fail. Any modern battery design will have a BMS inside it that monitors and maintains each individual cell. THE BMS (depending on design) will either boost the voltage on a low cell (top balancing) or reduce the voltage on a high cell (bottom balancing). If you put in 4 12v lithium batteries, you will (most likely) have a BMS inside each battery but you do not have a BMS between batteries. You will still have to rotate the batteries, have individual chargers, or some other method for maintaining a proper charge balance. You will also have interconnect cables. Without the acid spilling around, it will not be as bad as the old L-A systems but an additional concern none the less. 4 lithium batteries is better than 4 L-A batteries but in my opinion not as good as a single 48v battery. Maybe I'll do a video explaining this in more detail.

@@SCHomestead damn brother, that is quite the detailed explanation, very much appreciated! Thank you for taking the time to write it up, exactly the information I was hoping for to help make the decision.

@@adrian.petrila Glad that I could help!

best explanation i have seen yet of why to go with a single over 4 in series. And I have been doing countless hours of research.@@SCHomestead

Need to know the same thing!

@@WillMV8893 that blue wire originally attached to the charge port. hooking it to power allows the motor controller to shift out of park. figured this out as we were doing the install on our own cart. also, the charger has a communication plug that goes to the gauge. if you don't hook i tup it won't charge at all. the instructions don't say anything about hooking it up and even say leave it unplugged unless specifically instructed to hook it up. if you look into the charger and find documentation on it, you 'll see it's required. hope that helps.

Yes. Originally it went back to the charge plug to prevent someone from driving off with the cart plugged in. I'm planning a video of the tear-down of the plug itself to show how it works as there is VERY little info on what that is and why.

@@SCHomesteadI've already completed the install on my buddy's cart. we even pulled the tray to clean all the corrosion up. it really looks good now. the blue wire hookup was [thankfully] a non-issue when I got to that point. the major gripe I had was the CANBUS data line from the charger to the battery/meter cable. it's really annoying that they don't give better information. again, thanks for the video. it was truly helpful.

@@2007Zee I'm glad that it helped.

It is coming. It is currently a background project but I have shot some video for part 2. it's just not yet to that next level of completion.

After much delay, art 2 should come out this week!!

No Issues. It’s running great! I’m work on two videos to follow up. The first will be a ‘follow up’ video (go figure) the second is going to be a ‘range test’. Still some tech issues to work out to make the range test measurable.

@@SCHomestead thx for the quick reply, I know editing can be a pain. I’ll subscribe. Have a great day!

Great. Welcome aboard!

Doing exact same ting to Rxv. Blue wire😩. Problem I’m have is the solenoid is a fricken clicker. What size solenoid do you have and what else did you run to battery terminals? Think I might need to switch out solenoid but not sure that is 100 percent the problem.

​@@pipernoodledid you figure this out? Having same issue

Thanks for the information!

What do you charge a regular customer for this conversion including the battery?

Hi! Yes, the SC stands for South Carolina. Bees are deceptively complex critters. As soon as you think you understand them, they will prove you wrong, usually in a publicly embarrassing way. 😂

Thank you very much! 😁

I got mine at a local Cart shop (R&R Golf Cart in Seneca SC). If you go to the Eco Battery site, under Products, they list 'Batteries' and 'Bundles'. I'm not a rep for them but I think that the bundles have the mounting bracket, plug, gauge, etc. on the product page for each battery it has a datasheet (not too useful) and a quickstart guide (somewhat useful). I emailed the company (they are actually quite responsive online) and asked about the 'supplemental guide' that is mentioned on page two line number 5 of the Quickstart Guide. They sent me a computer rendering of the installation bracket and it orientation in the battery tray. It's not very informative but it did point me in the correct direction. If you have any question, let me know. I may not know the CORRECT way to install it but I know how I did it. 😁

Thank you for the response. I ordered mine from an online store in SC and they were apparently given bad information from Eco Battery rep. I sent the reseller your video and he immediately sent a bracket my way (which I have not yet received). Once I am able to properly mount the battery, aside from lengthening a couple cables, I'm hoping to be able to use the EZGO transformer not have to rewire the cart to install the Eco Battery provided transformer. 🤞

Just to be clear, I didn't have to re-wire the 12 volt circuit because I used the old voltage reducer. I re-wired the card because I had some corrosion from the old lead-acid batteries that had to be removed and I didn't like some of the short cuts that the factory made. --Mike

I haven’t forgot you. I’ll get out there and take a reading on all of the connections as soon as I can. Work is taking all of my time at the moment.

The green wire is +12v and the black is negative/neutral. If you email me at the address on the About tab on my channel, I'll email you back the little schematic that I have for it. (It was on the side of my voltage reducer)

It never dawned on me to cut them at a 45° until I saw it in a TH-cam video. The video wasn't even about chickens it was a car restoration video. It was just in the background of another shot. When I saw it, it just clicked. 🤦‍♂️

@@SCHomestead I kept the square shape for their box just through a sloped roof on it. But i really need to rearrange in there again lol.