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@@charlesprice7897 been working for years now.

@@myjuanbrown7784 yeah

@@ecuperformance3320 makes no sense to build a motor with stock parts

@@CrazyClips1001 yeah that must have been quite a job. Crazy how everything worked right!

@@Vgk36 if the fuel temps aren't high there is no need. Always choose the correct fuel pump & regulator Chinese regulator and too powerful pumps will heat up fuel a lot Also always run a returning system

Email works no problem, we get 100+ emails per day.

Email our office : info@einzel.nl

​​@@DriftJesusYour address would not send from the US Respectfully, Seth

Otherwise the unplugged ABS prevents starting the car.

​@DriftJesus where can i find the diagram for the pins? In the video you said you jumped 2 sets of pins but only showed the 1 set of pins?? Thank you

@@Philsilva06 in the vid you can see exactly which ones are bridged

Thanks for your opinion. I like to have wiring on the outside so its easy to troubleshoot. If its a SEMA car I'll make it behind a dash. There is not "a lot of wiring" its just wired in a way that everything is fused, contrary to many racecars we had in the shop with problems where 80% of hot signal wires weren't fused. So no, its not a "problem" its exactly how I want it. The problems we see with clients in EU and USA is PDM's and wiring behind a dashboard in a caged car interior that you cannot work on.

2 cars for me . And other 6 cars i build my self with friends Now almost 5 seasons Never had an issue with relays and wiring .. or any electric problem All behind the easily removable dash .. if you are good with your work just trust your self and put them their ... i just giving you advice here you can take it you can leave it .. the choice is yours ..

@@hadiq8965 I think we built over 60 cars.

@@DriftJesus 60 cars like that ? Then you stopped improving at wiring detailing and position long time ago .. all things you do is ok But wiring ..... if am a customer i will be sad

@@hadiq8965 thanks, no advice needed. The reason we build wiring like that is because each component (engine harness, interior harness, switch panel between seats, center fuse / relay panel) can be removed in 30 seconds and all connectors are separate. This way, a mechanic can remove either of the components and measure or make changes rather than laying on your back in a caged car. Also, the indicator lights are fly back from the device rather than actuated by the switch. This way you know the device is really on, and not just the switch.

Email our office please : info@einzel.nl

Never had any trouble getting new S14 hubs

Does the steering shaft still clear through the sikky headers? on a LS s13?

@@S13_Sender you need to use the included WF adapter. Also not sure if everyone's steering shaft is routed the same. On this car the adapter was all that we needed.

They fail from age. New one will see another 15 years

Hi! Thanks! Best hit up info@einzel.nl

Still 50% cheaper than what I'm used to haha.

see the other two videos in this series of three.

No.

You're missing something thats said in the video. Even the majority of the B25's are ovalized. Ovalizing is not a problem untill you boost things.

@@DriftJesus But the majority of M50's also have 250k km, so is it really bad rod ratio, which doesn't necessarily make sense on stock engines as the b25 has great rod ratio, or is it simply they're old, high km and probably with meh maintenance ? But really was mostly asking for insight on the impact of rod ratio on the actual performance and feel, rather than on longevity, because that's mostly what you've talked about, but I'm not sure it matters for most guys building their engines as they're either street cars not planning to drive 100k km, or race cars that see the track twice a year and not full seasons endurance, so I'm not sure the wear is as major as you highlight it to be for most people.

Also a B30 doesn't have a "great rod ratio" either for boost. The way people judge if something "really matters" often is different from how I judge it, which is fine. Once you start looking for real life performance that beats a $9000 N/A new V8, it starts to come in play. If you don't mind staying below that performance, or don't really stress the car (small tires, road driving, instagram fun) none of it matters, you can have fun with the worst engine ever made. Now, if you do want to exceed 550 wheel and 7500rpm, all these things DO matter and ofcourse as said in the video, is not just rod angle / thrust & ovalizing. Its all just aimed towards finding the maximum performance, if you don't do that everything is fine. The car will however not perform like it could, which is fine for many people.

@@imnota again Ovalizing and rod ratio doesn't matter much for N/A. I have a 104k km first owner M50B25 motor which is ovalized, removed it myself from an automatic trans car. S54 or S50 will see intergalactic mileage and still run strong despite less than ideal rod ratio, because they are N/A. However boosting these motors is not a great idea, unless , as said before, the car has an easy life. Michael Essa in FD usually needed 4-6 motors per season and he knows everything there is to know about them. Yes there are instagram & stance guys with "1000whp bro" S54's that don't break but that's because those cars aren't stressed at all. Its also not just a matter of longevity. Watch the video again, its not only about rod angle and thrust. The job & conditions for the piston are greatly affected aswell.

@@DriftJesus I understand that the reason the less than ideal stock engines or instagram builds last is because most people don't stress them like an FD driver does, and it's kind of my point, most of the people watching this video and questionning their builds right now aren't FD drivers either, neither do they plan on going around the world in their cars. But what I don't understand is that all the theory points out to an NA engine wanting the highest rod ratio possible, with bikes being at 2 and F1 at like 2.5, with all theory articles saying it's what makes them make power at high rpm, but then engines like the S50b32 which have ratios WELL below that and yet broke hp/L records. I guess the S50 maybe isn't the best example because realistically it doesn't rev that high, but let's take the K20 engine, it has 1.6 rod ratio which isn't anything impressively high, yet people make crazy HP/L while also keeping it alive past 10k rpm. So really my question is the 1.9+ rod ratio dream that most theory article talk about actually will make an NA engine make more power, or is it not real world applicable because it'll only matter at 15+k rpm, or even will it not help at all the power delivery? A question also left, is you say "good rod ratio FOR BOOST" plenty of times in the video, but never really explain what makes a ratio good for boost, but not necessarily for NA and the other way around. Because it's the first time I hear of such concept, most info about rod ratio is basically just X rod ratio = good and y rod ratio = bad, nobody really talks about different goals for different use cases, and people seem to tend saying the higher the better, but you don't point to that and with how knowledgeable you seem you have a good reason to think that way

We supply those too, but you cannot do that with an existing unit.

The correct thickness for the past 16 years :)

Welcome! I love this vid

Our job was the chassis , which was finished yes.

The nice Blaze

Absolutely, much stronger than stock. Rear kit too.

N/A its less critical. Why stay under 3L?

Good Q! Nope doesn't matter !