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@@xz1629 I have to agree with you; not one of my best. 🙄

@@solsol1624 Thanks! It’s such an easy and inexpensive solution.

@@DipalDeb-m3o It’s tempting, even! 😆

It’s been 3 weeks and it still works perfectly. As for how long it’ll last…? I’ll just give it a quick dusting if it happens again.

@@CaptRich-bi3gp Thanks! Around 200 Fahrenheit.

@ducttapersanonymous Very cool product! I found you through the Halloween wheelchair mods you and your group does; admiring work. I am a maker in east Tennessee misplaced from Texas. I'm interested in trying something similar (for next year obviously) here if I can find and network with some others in my area. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated. ✌️

@@ducttapersanonymous Oh, and thank you for the Fahrenheit; L0L...

@@DeKempster Let me know how it works out.

I think not taking care of my suspension problem eventually led to my machine’s catastrophic failure: instagram.com/reel/C-DijSvpLpE/?igsh=bzU2Y3U0eDVtM3Aw

@@CatKingKeefie It sure is, and it works perfectly! Note that the tube contains the finely-powdered stuff, not liquid. Cheers!

@@ducttapersanonymousSo where did you get the tube of graphite, and how did you get it to stick to the contacts?

@@phantomcruizer I bought a tube at my local hardware store. Here’s an example available at Home Depot: www.homedepot.ca/product/the-hillman-group-3-g-powdered-graphite-lubricant/1000167239?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_All-Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-298495632901&pid=1000167239&store=7149&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADhdmz4sj5w5NF-vALOSArax1BBjO&gclid=Cj0KCQjw99e4BhDiARIsAISE7P9S1kzlH3jZ1w6avrrmImt0SqR-DiXpgnJyYY7eadZ7aCfFi-jcSX0aAuEZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds A fine dusting adheres to the surface of the carbon pill, maybe because it already contains some carbon? I don’t know, but it works.

@@thatclover123 I went the plastic route, also. It cut my air flow by half and eventually Gaston managed to pry it off. One thing which worked was taping a length of aluminum foil to the floor, just in front of the screen. My cat is terrified of foil, as he should be. But that’s a story for another day.

True

@@hamsolo8165 You *do* know you’ll have to give me my glue gun back someday, right?

@@raypatson8775 Thanks! Let me know if you find identical Ikea-type boxes.

@@padalan2504 I agree completely. And it only doesn’t work until it does.

Or he whacks me with the spatula. It's a real Mexican standoff.

@@GrumpetteJV I hadn’t thought of that. I’ll certainly try it.

Are you having the very same problem? I’m trying to remember the exact process but what I can tell you is that you need to get into it methodically: the frother was assembled in a specific order that you need to “reverse engineer”. I’ve been taking everything apart since I was a kid (and I volunteer at my local repair café) so it’s become almost second nature? I’ll get back to you with specifics, if possible. Cheers!

@@ducttapersanonymous Hi thank you for the helpful video, and appreciate the response. I already got it out, there were 2 small screws underneath the motor and now Im just waiting for the new parts to arrive.

​@@ducttapersanonymous Hi, Thanks for the video repair. I volunteer at a Repair Cafe and recently someone brought in a Jura Milk Frother. It will heat but the wisk won't turn nor does the motor. I disconnected the motor cable and tested the motor with a bench power supply and it works. I tested the diodes and transistors on the power supply board and they appear okay. Anyone else have suggestions as to why it won't get enabled? There are no signs of milk or water contamination inside. The are two switches on the heating pad; the small switch enables the heating element but what is the function of the larger diameter button, does anyone know? I presume it is a temperature sensor for the container since the heater element would otherwise overheat the milk-hence, the larger diameter or contact area. There is also a thermal sensor on the heating pad but that won't tell the controller how hot the milk really is since or because the pot is stainless steel, which is a slow conductor of heat compared to aluminum or copper. The wisks appear to be in good condition, unlike the ones you have in your possession. Here is a link to a german language repair forum that describes some interesting fixes for the impeller or wisk. komtra.de/forum/index.php/Thread/17096-Jura-72033-Milchsch%C3%A4umer-dreht-nicht-mehr/ Thanks, Mark

@ Hello Mark! I’m also a Repair Café volunteer in Montreal. Which city is yours in? To answer your question, the larger center button is actually an aluminum plate so as to not interfere with the action of the spinning magnets beneath it. Those magnets are attached to the motor in the housing. I’ve found that sometimes the motor craps out, and sometimes the neodymium magnets in the “spinner”corrode if they’re exposed to the liquids inside the frothing cup, as was the case with this one. I’ve also seen that the small switch on the heating plate gets pushed into the housing with repeated use; if that’s the case you’ll need to find a way to push it back up and out. I hope this helps. Cheers!

@ Also, thanks for the link!

@@drewdriver9130 Good question! Non-magnetic screws such as low-iron stainless steel: I don’t have drivers with spring-loaded clamping sleeves, but I *DO* keep a bit of Blu-Tack adhesive in my tool case… and that’ll lead to a new short clip. Thanks! 😊

I’m optimistic and more than a bit naive. Also, there’s some solid product engineering which I really admire to offset some of the enshitification of everything else.

@@ducttapersanonymous Its true, I am a jaded bastard. "Enshitification" is a fantastic bit of word engineering.

@@sterlingodeaghaidh5086 I like your version better.

so its intentional, but youre left out of the intent part, lol. you dont get the official memo you get the inverted scheme.

@@kerry4987 Thanks!

My nuts are unspillable. But seriously, cyanoacrylate with the activator creates a bond which is as strong as the surrounding material. And you’re right, I wouldn’t put nuts and bolts in these drawers; these are mostly for electronic parts.

@@ducttapersanonymous sure I agree the bond is good initially but over time CA degrades

Thanks!

Absolutely!

Ohhhh 😖 You haven’t seen the follow up to this, where I *did* pull out the rod. It’s on TT and Insta…. Shame! Shame!

YEAHGHH, indeed! 😁

Gaston (my cat) still tries but can’t get through that tough mesh.

@@ducttapersanonymous LOVE the cat's name!! Oui, tres sexy~! I've ordered some tought pet screen but I'm thinking my little adopted one, previously feral, is very determined. She tore a big hole, and I found her on the outside right by the dog , by the door. Thinking it just happened, cuz she was a bit spooked. So yes, def'y out today to find some of that good mesh too.

@@mfb6310 I’ve just checked online for options and I believe what I have is Everbuilt 5 ft. X 24 inch 19-Gauge Welded Wire Galvanized Steel Netting, 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch mesh (Home Depot SKU #1000135386) at 14,62$ CAD. It sure does the job of keeping him inside.

@@ducttapersanonymousThank you so much! I got the 5ft x 24in 1/4 x 1/4 inch earlier today, $10 n change, doesn't say welded but it looks it. But I might need more of it. Jazz began climbing the whole screen door trying to shred it, not happy with my covering her escape whole with a mile of duct tape. She got water spritzed and both she & the dog took off. Then she scrambled up inbetween windows & screens that were only open about 4 inches. Yup, I'm in trouble with this one for sure. I'm making a mesh cage catio. Tired of her yelling at me. I wrote the SKU down!

@@mfb6310 It looks like you've got your hands full with Jazz! Wire mesh was the solution which finally worked with Gaston. Other things I tried was taping down some aluminum foil on the floor and I even experimented with micro-controllers; the sensor worked fine but I could never get the motor/spray bottle combination to work efficiently.

Nah, I’d never want poor old Gaston to injure himself. 😊

Imagine if André knocked wrenches on my head on top of that?!? Nah, he’s too adorable for that.

Hello! I fixed another frother (different make and model) last week with the very same motor assembly as the Jura. I'm guessing several manufacturers get their parts from the same factory? Well, this particular model wouldn't start up at all but the problem was a simple one: the contact switch on top of the heating plate had been pushed into the body of the base and wouldn't detect the "milk pot" anymore. Check to see if this isn't the problem, first. Cheers!