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Cars By Mike
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2013
Classic car enthusiast sharing my experience tooling around the garage to bring cars back to life.
Fuel Pickup and Sending Unit Mods - 1968 Rambler American
We got a brand new high flow fuel pickup but it wasn't intended to go into a 1968 American fuel tank. The pickup was advertised to fit Javelin applications so I took a chance anyway and, as can be expected, it didn't fit so we've got to make it work.
มุมมอง: 96
วีดีโอ
Clutch Linkage - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 26121 วันที่ผ่านมา
I've got a clutch linkage and parts I was sold as being correct for a V-8 manual car but nothing lines up. The outside bellcrank pivot has to be moved and we need a lot of work on the pedal pushrod to make it all come together.
Final Engine Install - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 207หลายเดือนก่อน
The 401 V-8 and T-10 transmission go into the 1968 Rambler American for, hopefully, the last time. Follow along as I install the flywheel, clutch, and transmission before finally dropping the whole assembly into the car. It can be a tough one-man job and I had my fair share of setbacks on this one but the job is done. 00:00 Introduction 17:16 Flywheel 22:13 Bellhousing mod 23:22 Block spacer 31...
Odds N Ends To Prep Engine Bay - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 1252 หลายเดือนก่อน
Finally starting some assembly on the Rambler and getting closer to having our engine placed. The little tasks always take the most time. Brake lines and heat shield need to go in now while there is still room to work.
Road to assembly is LONG - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 2133 หลายเดือนก่อน
Getting everything that needs done prior to beginning assembly is tedious but we're making great progress. In this video we're doing lots of paint prep and finally get to test out our spray setup. We also get a first look at the color we picked for the car.
Mangled Pillar - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 955 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video I repair the broken and ripped up section of the b-pillar on the Rambler. It's the part directly where the door catch mounts and has some challenges.
Wrinkle Finish Valve Covers - 1968 Rambler American
มุมมอง 1235 หลายเดือนก่อน
Trying a wrinkle finish on a set of valve covers for the AMC 401 going into the 1968 Rambler American. First time using the product so it will be an experiment to see what we get.
1968 Rambler American - Sprung Door
มุมมอง 2085 หลายเดือนก่อน
Some prior damage on our 1968 Rambler American caused the driver side door to be sprung. It does not want to close and is flapping in the breeze. It's time to get it fixed so we can get on to better jobs.
Procar bucket seats - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 8512 ปีที่แล้ว
Seats finally arrived for the Rambler after a seven month backorder. Went with Procar low back seats. They are super affordable with respect to upholstery in general. Had to whip up some custom bracketry to mount them but it was not very complicated. Tags: #Procar #bucketseats #interior
Home-made sheet metal edge roller - Shopfoolery
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Why hammer and dolly rolled edges on sheet metal when you can spend way too much time making tool? Turns out it worked a hot damn and did a great job on some complex shapes with very little effort. Tags: #shopfoolery #iaintamachinist #handmadetools #edgerolling #sheetmetal #fabrication
Reconstructing a dash pad from an incomplete core - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Not much was left of the dash pad core when we started. It was missing large pieces and was even sacrificed as a donor part at some point. I'm using what's there and building the missing pieces from scratch to rebuild the dash. I also should mention it's super affordable using readily available materials. Most of which can be had at your local craft shop. Tags: #carsbymike #dashpad #upholstery ...
Disc Brake Update - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Why is hardware so hard to sort out??? Anyway, the disc brake conversion is complete on the American. It's a very simple job when you have all the right pieces ahead of time. The braking components of the kit are good quality and fit nicely. Tags: #carsbymike #carrestoration #customcars #restoration #modifiedcars #AmericanMotorsCorporation #AMC #AMCRambler #AMCAmerican #Rambler #RamblerAmerican...
Dual Exhaust from Scratch - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 5622 ปีที่แล้ว
Building our 3-inch dual exhaust from raw mandrel bends. We're starting from scratch, have no existing pieces to template from, and don't even have so much as an original exhaust hanger. We're also trying a new tool; the exhaust pipe cutter from Harbor Freight. It's, well...testy. Tags: #carsbymike #musclecar #hotrod #AmericanMotors #Rambler #dualexhaust #glasspacks #ThrushMuffler
8.8 Rear end conversion and custom spring plates - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Freshening up the rear end and fabricating custom spring plates for the larger axle tubes. I'm using a cut down Ford 8.8 rear end from a '93 Explorer with Trac Lok differential and 3.73 gear ratio. Also replacing the shackle bushings with Prothane urethan bushings. Those bushings come too long and need to be trimmed prior to install since the frame rail on the American is only 2 inches wide. Ta...
Disc Brake Conversion - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 3.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Your braking power should be upgraded whenever you add significant amounts of horsepower to your car. It's important and the old drum brakes on the Rambler were not going to get the job done. I'm installing the disc brake conversion kit from American Performance Products. As per typical, I run into my share of issue. This brake kit can be found at American Performance Products, www.amclives.com...
Make full-scale templates from photos - Tech Tips
มุมมอง 712 ปีที่แล้ว
Make full-scale templates from photos - Tech Tips
Carburetor reveal and accelerator mock-up - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2632 ปีที่แล้ว
Carburetor reveal and accelerator mock-up - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Master cylinder rebuild fail - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 3692 ปีที่แล้ว
Master cylinder rebuild fail - 1968 AMC Rambler American
What's the difference between a 6 cylinder and V-8 battery tray? 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1482 ปีที่แล้ว
What's the difference between a 6 cylinder and V-8 battery tray? 1968 AMC Rambler American
5 Minute Rebuild - 4-speed shifter - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2612 ปีที่แล้ว
5 Minute Rebuild - 4-speed shifter - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Harbor Freight 6-inch Vise and Bonus Shop Project - Shop Stuff
มุมมอง 12K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Harbor Freight 6-inch Vise and Bonus Shop Project - Shop Stuff
Custom shifter housing - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2312 ปีที่แล้ว
Custom shifter housing - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Long form shop relaxation - Making a rubber dust boot from scratch - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2782 ปีที่แล้ว
Long form shop relaxation - Making a rubber dust boot from scratch - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Headers need attention - Drivetrain mock-up Part 4 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 6102 ปีที่แล้ว
Headers need attention - Drivetrain mock-up Part 4 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Modifying transmission tunnel to fit shifter - Drivetrain mock-up Part 3 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 3622 ปีที่แล้ว
Modifying transmission tunnel to fit shifter - Drivetrain mock-up Part 3 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Fitting Engine - Drivetrain mock-up Part 2 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Fitting Engine - Drivetrain mock-up Part 2 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Fitting motor mounts and bellhousing - Drivetrain mock-up Part 1 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 2272 ปีที่แล้ว
Fitting motor mounts and bellhousing - Drivetrain mock-up Part 1 - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Repair dented fuel tank - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Repair dented fuel tank - 1968 AMC Rambler American
How to customize plastic parts, new gauges fit old school cluster - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 4252 ปีที่แล้ว
How to customize plastic parts, new gauges fit old school cluster - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Forming dimples in sheet metal - 1968 AMC Rambler American
มุมมอง 1702 ปีที่แล้ว
Forming dimples in sheet metal - 1968 AMC Rambler American
Can I use those engine mounts you use on a sbc 283? I have a 62 rambler classic
Probably not without some significant fabrication. I think the mounts on the early 60’s cars are very different from the late 60’s cars like mine. I’ve heard of Chevys going into the AMC cars but not with off the shelf parts. There is likely someone out there in the AMC forum that’s gone down that road though.
Is your rambler a unibody?
Yes, it is
Seems like a lot of extra work for nothing?
You’re likely right. I’m pretty well committed to running a 1/2” fuel line from the tank to the pump. It’s bigger than required but gives me some headroom over a 3/8” line
You will need to buy a mini starter for the other side to get the header in if they are headman headers!
Absolutely! It's very tight in there with headers. No way a stock starter would squeeze in. These are Doug's headers. The back tube on the right side is separate from the rest of the header so it makes installing a mini starter from the top possible. I lost video on that but I'll be sure to take a segment when I'm on that side of the engine again.
I believe the linkage is specifically for 66-69 4 speed Americans. 3spd and small car like gremlin/hornet are different, I had to pay dearly for my pedals and linkage. Nice work!
All Doyle products are 30% off tomorrow (9/30)
Would you mind filming details of the clutch z-bar install if it's not to late ?
That’s going to get some special attention so be on the lookout for that soon.
The bellhousing spacer you used was for a automatic trans. It doesn't protect the clutch from water and debris. I made the same mistake on my 65 american with a 360 and a T10
Where did you get that oil filter housing? Looks like much better flow through that! Never seen it all done that way before but it worked for you!
@stockamx When I had that short block built, ENQ TC316N was the part number on the invoice for the timing cover/oil pump assembly. I did find a product page on Engine Quest matching that part number and looks like it may be it. enginequest.com/product/jeep-timing-cover-290-304-343-360-390-401-67-78-with-oil-pump-new/
Show us the finished product please
CAN YOU SEND A PICTURE OR THE DIMENSIONS OF THR 8.8 REAR SPRING PLATES ?
I don't see any comment options for pictures but if you send me an email direct, carsbymikechannel@gmail.com, I can send you a dimensioned drawing. Believe it or not, I still haven't mocked up shocks yet so there may be revisions coming. I'm not sure just yet but drawing has the correct layout for 9/16" u-bolts
Just got done doing the exact same thing on mine. Bought all new brake lines on Ebay very reasonable. However I put the heat shield inside the car.
I was really on the fence about the heat shield since I’m almost certain that moisture will saturate that fiberglass backing. I’ll have to avoid the rain for sure. The inside is going to be getting a full treatment as well.
You may have to use a different paportioning valve. One for front disc and rear drum. This will change how the brake fluid is sent to the different sizes of wheel cylinder bore versus front caliber bore. The original valve is for drum to drum. Easy fix though. Good work so far. Cheers
You’re likely on to something there. I’m unsure if the original has enough adjustment to get the job done.
Looks good. I haven't thought of insulating mine
I’m anxious to see how effective it is.
Hey Mike, when adding the disc brakes, are any modifications need to the master cylinder?
@@jessea1118 nope. The kit says you don’t need any changes to your master cylinder.
Looking good! i think the color will turn out nice.
Where can I get this kit? For my 1960 rambler
@tmills2200 American Performance Products makes this kit. www.amclives.com/products/1955-1977-amc-rambler-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit?_pos=1&_sid=8467a3c3f&_ss=r I'll update my video description also. Good luck on your project!
Looks like a Ford-style shifter. My '69 AMX had that shifter originally. It had been replaced with Hurst aftermarket, non-Competition Plus shifter when I got it. then I found a rebuilt factory Hurst Competition Plus shifter and put it in along with new shift rods, bushings and clips.
Good fix. One thing at a time
I have so many small things to do on my 67 Rogue that it’s not funny. I feel your pain. It is truly a labor of love. Keep at it, you’ll get there. I just wish that there were more parts available for these cars. Wishful thinking I guess.
I keep finding things everywhere I look. I’m struggling right now to find the sweet spot of how much time I really ought spend nitpicking and just putting the car back together.
@@carsbymike5154 I battle myself on how far I want to go with my Rogue. Like you , I have to pick and choose on what’s important. My Rogue is completely stock and original. A complete restoration is out of the question. I’m just out to preserve the car because of its uniqueness. Keep at it, you’ll get there.Also, congratulations on fatherhood. Cheers
Even replacing the coolant tank and hose it'll still leak after a couple of weeks, use part # B-71750 hose from AutoZone and a 1 inch to 3/4 inch brass barb coupling from Home Depot, cut the hose in a 90°, spray some WD40 on the coolant tank and hose, the hose will slip easily over the entire nipple, cut the quick disconnect end and join both hose with the brass coupling, use 2 clamps on the coolant tank nipple and 2 clamps on the brass coupling, this will fix it permanently I did it to my 2014 F-150 last month and it hasn't leaked since.
That’s what they should have done at the factory. I’m lucky enough to still be leak free but it’s just a matter of time. Manufactures always designing for easy assembly knowing full well it’s going to fail.
Seems like everything I paint ends up with a wrinkle finish....
Funny you should mention that. Kevin Tetz had a recent video that had that same issue. th-cam.com/video/XQWd_BtESwU/w-d-xo.html
Hey buddy I'm building a 69 gasser. I got a 401 and a 390 but I think I'm going to go with the 401 and a manual transmission. I'm wondering how to get a hold of you so I can pick your brain on a couple things if that'd be okay
For sure, I’m happy to help if I can. Send me a message to my channel email, carsbymikechannel@gmail.com
@@carsbymike5154 awesome! When I get the opportunity I will send you an email. Look forward to chatting about the ramblers. Thank you sir
LOOKING FORWARD TO UPCOMING VIDEOS. BEFORE YOU KNOW IT THAT YOUNGIN WILL BE OUT IN THE GARAGE WITH YOU!
GOOD TO SEE YOU BACK.
Thanks, I hope to keep it up.
Congratulations! Nice to see you back.
Congratulations on becoming a new father
Very much appreciated. Thank you!
Hope you are doing well Mike. I have recently gotten a parts car with the headliner somewhat intact and I'm wondering if you are interested in the dimensions of the headliner since I made a 2D Drawing of it. Would be a cool video of you doing the headliner since we all have our tips and tricks
Not sure when the headliner will come around on this project but I'd love to see what you have.
Is that a factory part ?
The hose was a factory part but the coolant reservoir was a Doorman replacement. Besides price, availability was a big factor in going with the Doorman reservoir. If I remember right, the Ford part would have taken several weeks to get and I really didn’t want to wait that long.
What size is this gas tank? Have a 68 myself and can’t find this info anywhere, or anyone selling one. Thanks
@BustinShit TSM for '68 says it's a 16 gallon tank for all Americans. Hope that helps and good luck!
Brand you orden
I got this kit from American Performance Products, www.amclives.com/
Hey how did you remove the dashboard any sujestion I need to restore mine
If you just need to get the dashpad off, the nuts on the back are tucked up in there pretty tight. It would help if you can remove the heater core/fan assembly and vent ducts to get at them better. A good swivel adapter on a 1/4 in ratchet helps. It's mostly blind if the dash is still in the car. Removing the whole dash can be a real pain. On my car the windshield was already removed so the screws along the cowl section were exposed and easier to get to. I would say, if you don't have to take it out, don't. But if you do need to get it out, you need to remove all of the a-pillar and kick panel trims. I don't think you can get the screws along the front edge with the windshield gasket in place so that will probably need to come out too. If I remember right, I removed the vent ducts to access the inner support rods easier. Overall, don't rush it because it can be quite frustrating.
I'm really not fond of Harbor Freight cause nothing in there from what I have seen is made in the USA,, Even the American Flags they sell... Made in China BUT....Have that same vise.. Works great for what I do...
This vice is made in Taiwan far better quality then made in China. A made in the USA vice this size costs over 2grand!
I’m going to the junkyard
Why did you stop making your videos?
I became a new parent about a year ago and time has really gotten away. There will be more videos coming in the near future, though. The projects are right where we left off so there won't be anything missing from the progress.
Whats the part number of the cable or for what model
I got that cable from American Parts Depot. Their part number, at least when I ordered it, was 940 5701E. Hope that helps!
Are any more vids gonna be posted?
It's been a long time since I visited with the Rambler but it will be coming back into focus soon. I'll be posting more videos along the way.
@@carsbymike5154 I’ll be here waiting! :)) I’m building a 1969 javelin and these videos help a lot!!
It appears to be the same one Sears was calling the Craftsman Professional the last couple years they existed. While not an old USA name brand vise i think it deserves a heavy bench, one secured to the wall so that you can get after really heavy work on it when the need arises. I cannot imagine working in a shop without a hell for stout bench. That means no wheels, wont move under tough jobs requiring a lot of jerking and tugging at the vise. Additionally, i want a good quality grinder, 1/2 hp or more, 6" or larger wheels, one wire, one stone. Mounting of vises and grinders properly to benches is very critical and a lot of guys don't know that.
I am a guy into antiques, I have several old vises but this one is really attractive for such a new piece!
I just priced reupholstering one driver seat from a '63 Rambler ( individually adjustable reclining seat) at a respected local upholstery shop, furnishing the cloth myself and them supplying the vinyl . $1300+ 😢
I have a 77 Hornet set that have about 200k on them, on 4 different cars, the Hornet they came off of, a 64 Classic 770, a 66 Rebel, and the 68 Javelin they are on now. The Javelin is getting a full Mustang II suspension with Wilwood brake setup, and the Hornet setup will be going on my 63 American wagon, (car #5). Have 35:55 replaced rotors once, and calipers once (and will again when I switch them). They got new bearings and seals last time they were switched.
Did you try replacing the o-ring in the connection first before replacing the tank?
Late reply here but, yes I did. I was hoping it would be an easy fix like that but it kept on dripping sadly.
@carsbymike5154 I would say late reply!🤣 All good though. I did the same thing. Replaced o-ring first and that didn't work, so I replaced the whole tank and air box and that fixed my problem.
What is the part number for the old ring?
O ring part number
@oliverdunn1350 I think it depends on if you have the 3.5 Ecoboost or the 5.0 V8. Also, it depends on what hose is leaking. If you do a search on Google for the o-ring, you will get some really good results as far as o-ring kits to replace all the o-rings for your hoses and expansion tank. I don't think I used an OEM one. I just bought a bunch of random o-rings and matched them up to the one. I think it was the closest. I do know if you buy the o-ring from the dealership and it's stupid expensive for a an o-ring. I think it's between $10-$15. Hell for that you can buy a whole assortment of o-rings, which will work. If I'm not mistaken, my o-rings is a Tuff Ring. I found their o-rings to be thicker. Once I got it in the hose and the hose put back on my new expansion tank, she sealed right up with no problems.
Thanks for the video. I’m planning to do this change on a 65 Rambler American. What set of sockets, wrenches and torque wrench were you using?
I have a mix of stuff I’ve picked up over the years. Mostly older Craftsman sockets and wrenches. My torque wrench is a Gearwrench that I like a lot.
Don't be a statistic.... Finish what you started. I don't generally buy other people's projects but I just bought a 69 Rambler 4 door for not much than a song..... the guy I bought it from bought it for a project during Covid, put some Nice Legecy Wheels on it and put in a 3.8 V6 and A998 (TorqueFlight) 4 speed auto trans out of a first gen Dakota in it and then lost interest in it. The interior is in decent shape except for the front seat which is absolutely trashed but I have some bucket seats that I bought off of facebook marketplace fir $50 a couple months ago simply because they were like brand new and $50 is a STEAL, why not buy them even if you don't have anything to pout them in because you just never know. I'm not going to put alot of money into, I just want something cool to daily drive and take to cars and coffee's and local car shows.
👍💯
Hi Mike, I'm wondering how you took the gauge cluster off, trying to do the same with mine
To get the whole assembly out of the dash, it's just four screws from the font. For the gauges themselves, I dug up an old picture of mine when I first took it out of the car. There looks like eight phillips head screws holding the circuit board to the bezel. The gauges should come out with the board.
24.5 steel truck wheel about a 100lbs with 1/2 plate welded to a cut off Freightliner drive shaft full off sand because heft is ones friend on a deal like this
did you drain the radiator to remove the fluid from the overflow tank?
whats the part number for the large hose with the connector?
I used an 82 spirit setup on our 62 American which is a rear mounted caliper and is easier to route hoses on americans. All hardware was a direct fit. Only issue was sourcing hoses so I had to climb down the rabbit hole of figuring that all out and wound up with two body mount fittings, two 3/8"banjo fittings and two 12" hoses with 3AN fittings on each end. Money end was $250 for the setup, $100 for a pair of rotors, $70 for a pair of calipers, $60 for hoses, $70 for pads, pad hardware, and bearings. throw in grease, abrasives, a can of self etch and a can of paint and it was right at $600.
Good sense of humor, dude! So I don't need another vise but I always like looking -- and when I went to Harbor Freight to get a couple cheap clamps I checked out the Doyle and agree that it looks like a quality build. No need for a swivel base if mounted on a movable stand -- but that setup is not typical for a vise, as I guess you know per your response to an earlier comment. But if that beast gets moved to a bench in the future you have a great stand for a grinder/wire wheel. Cheers.