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Awesome lesson on building a walnut table!

Awesome video! Thanks for the detailed walkthrough. What did the final dimensions end up being? Also, you kind of look like John Krasinski

Do you shim under the slab at all? I have some oak thet went all crazy on me in the kiln it’s 8/4 so I have some room to flatten

Good Video. My first try had a little leak, but it all worked out.

This is exactly what I needed in a comparison, thanks

Can I ask why are mantle not put up like a shelf

Is it possible to know the where the rocks where taken for the chimney?

This is very informative, Thanks for sharing

Thank you

Great job and very helpful

You provided a few opportunities, thank you

Disaster to awesome in 2:35. You saved that table. I will now go watch the full length video.

Vacuum the holes out, the rods will go in easier!

Best for detail sanding?

I love this video. To-the-point, great info and covers a lot of the important points, nice tips and tricks, less effort on intros and effects and just a classic "how to." 10/10

Thank you first a great video. Can you tell me the type of tape you used on the board? Once again, thx

If you have a crack that extends to the edge of the slab, can you just tape the end in addition to the backer board, or is there some other solution to seal off the vertical part of the edge? Thanks. Good clear video appreciated.

Thank you for the tutorial, very helpful 👍🏼

Thanks, learned a lot. Like the way you sat the mantle on the rods to mark locations. We have been using template, this is a much better way. Thanks again.

For those of us poor folks who have craftsman tools vs festool can we do this also

I dont know about this guy. He says make sure you stir it. On the can it says not to

Thank you, My first attempt at finishing a redwood slab for a friends' wedding. You give easy to understand explanations and demonstrations. Thank you.

Nice Job Looks great. I have done two live edge slab projects. My first was a bar top for my backyard pub. It was fun and turned out well. It was made to be half inside and half outside with a window I can raise with a pully set up to raise the window in nice weather. After two years the top on the outside portion of the bar started to get a crazed looking surface. Is there a way to fix this or a type of epoxy that can handle being exposed to the suns UV rays?

What are the rods you used to mount it on?

Thank you.

Do you polish the epoxy somehow for a finish or just hit epoxy with whatever you’re using on wood ?

shouldnt pour twice, they form as seperate layers that dont attach well. you can literally peel them apart with your fingers. always mix more than you need. i had that issue with a section of bathroom floor. the microscopic gap layer drew moisture in and it all seperated. literally lifted it all up in one go using my hands. ime making some speakers out of some very old wood that has a huge crack down one plank, hopefully i get it fixed up as well as you managed there. i have to say the thought of expanding epoxy is a worry, i have some electeical grade that doesnt expand or contract at all, but thats expensive stuff. have you had any issues with it expanding and spreadig the crack further? or has it all been good?

Best instructional video I’ve seen for this

I failed to mention before that I had applied 3 coats of the original sealer/finish before adding the 1 coat of satin finish.

Thank you for your video! I have a 60" round rustic pine kitchen table that had been stained and needed to be protected from water. I used a natural bristle brush to apply each coat and ragged it off after about 15 minutes, letting it dry 24 hours between coats. It looked great, however, I really wanted a satin or matte finish, so I used the Waterlox Original Satin finish in the can (same as your video). I must not have stirred it well enough because it unfortunately dried very shiny. I was very disappointed. I called Waterlox and they suggested that I sand the table top to remove some of the last coat, add another sealer finish coat, then use their urethane matte finish product to get the matte finish I was looking for. I sanded it, then applied the one coat of sealer by brushing it on and letting it dry without wiping it off. It looks horrible at this stage, with very shiny and mottled areas mixed. I am very confused about what to do next because I don't want to make it worse. Each layer is adding product and I don't want it to look like a plastic table. I loved my original table because it was rustic and not shiny and now it is far from what I started with, color wise (added amber color...was grey/brown) and the sheen is to glossy. I would love your advice about what I should do. Thank you so much!!

I'm a painterman thank you for the video

Which one would you use to do some drywall once in a while. Most of the time will use on wood.Ty,

What number was that sanding

Nice

That was a great sander comparison, just subbed to your channel. I'm planning to buy a Festool sander soon, and was wondering would the RO 150 be too heavy to sand paint off plasterboard walls for pre-painting prep? I'll mainly be using it to sand wooden panels on my workbench but it would be nice to use the same sander for DIY painting projects. Thanks very much.

That's amazing. I thought the max cut depth for the saw is like 1 3/8"? It's amazing that it could cut 1 3/4". Thanks for sharing!

I think this is a poor choice of subject to focus on when you know your following is engaging in much more harmful activities.

This channel sucks so hard.

You skipped the entire breadboard end section? Dumbest “how-to” ever.

Thank you for the clear and concise video...I'm glad that I watched it before starting my seal coats on my 72" x 24" x 2" live edge Black Walnut top (making either a coffee table or a desk). I had taped one side first with Tuck Tape and was about to brush a seal coat one one side then wait and then start the 1st main epoxy pour. I realized after watching your video that with the small cracks/veins in the wood (some go all the way through) that I would not be able to get the seal coat completely through to the other side and that I would need to flip the board over to seal any parts that remain exposed. I will remove the Tuck Tape from one side, sand & clean, complete the seal coat on BOTH sides, sand & clean, re-tape one side with Tuck Tape, then do complete the main epoxy pour process. Long winded comment to say thank you for posting the video...much appreciated. I am a beginner and found this extremely helpful.

Thanks for showing the prep work. Most videos glance over that. I did trial and error and with what epoxy costs, that’s expensive

Think the original would look great on mahogany ?

can bark be left on?

Amazingly informative; learned a lot, thank you very much

similar for exterior doors?

Ive never seen warm as you pour before. Good idea. Thanks.

This was very helpful. Thank you for sharing! 😄

Cuts like a hot knife through butter 😮

Why not use a permanent backer board to reinforce a thin (1 inch) top board? Any issues with that? I'm thinking ahead to attaching the legs.

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