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I bought those a few years back on AliExpress cheap but pretty sure they are available on eBay

Hello, this video was made for members of a YTM225 group that I built carbs for. I did a few batches of 10 with good results and feedback from the group. Unfortunately I do not have current plans to do more. However I may post a video in the near future on which carb to get and how to modify it to work on the YTM.

Most people place it in the utility segment like a Big Red because it's shaft drive but I think it fits better in a sport / cruiser category due to its weight, nimble handling, peppy motor and speed.

I totally agree, ergonomics sitting position to transition to standing or lift ur bum for bumps just way better, way more fun to ride, even today I'd enjoy riding that bike and could keep up with modern trail atv , they were the business back in the day,

Before I bought my first 225DX back in 1984 (yes I'm 53 now) I owned a 83 200X back then, bone stock, stock gearing and original balloon tires and my buddy who had an 83 225DX used to beat me in top speed. This is an unbiased, first hand account with someone that experienced these machines when they were new and I believe I provided a fair and somewhat scientific testing process and evaluation compared to my other YTM225 machines which is broke down at the end of the video with many details outlined on each build.

The same Mikuni VM26 carb would work with modifying the flange and installing the slack adjuster elbow to the top of the carb cap. Stock jetting is nearly identical between the 200 and 225, both have 20 pilot jets, needle clip set on the middle #3 position with the main jet being a 110 on the 200 and a 112.5 on the 225. Installing those jet specs in the VM26 will get you real close with perhaps lower the needle clip one slot #4 to raise the needle to richen the mixture seems to be the sweet spot on the 225 motor.

I use a 30mm Mikuni VM26 flange, they can be had on eBay and Amazon. In order for it to work with the stock intake you will need to either drill out the holes a about 1mm on either side for the mounting bolts or cut and slot the flange with a Dremel for a better fit/alignment to the intake (check the vid for a visual). If you still have your stock manual choke, best to remove it and the cable and leave it intact with your old carb. If your motor is stock then the stock jetting is a good baseline for the new carb. 20 pilot jet, 112.5 main jet, needle clip dropped down one slot from the middle position to #4 to raise the needle. Air/Fuel screw on the new carb was good at the factory settings which was about 3/4 turn from fully seated. OEM carb was 1.5 turns out from fully seated +/- 1/4 turn. If you ride in colder weather or have mods like a pipe then I suggest going up to a 22.5 pilot and 115 main jet. These settings should get you close to the sweat spot. Always conduct plug checks to help verify jetting. Light brown color on the electrode is good, white or gray is lean (not enough fuel) and oily or black (too much fuel) is a rich condition. Granted this is based on a good motor not smoking and burning oil. Back fire on deceleration is also a symptom of a lean condition. Good luck

@@2wo2wo5ives8 Thank you for the reply. Yes the machine is stock. for now...

@@2wo2wo5ives8 Did you notice an improvement in performance?

@@snake61007 yes, mid range in particular which is good considering that is the power and used most often. It complements other mods I have installed on different 225's, pipe, +1k high rev CDI and stage 2 Web cam. Another trike I also have a ported head and 71mm 229cc 10.25:1 high comp Wiseco piston. A larger carb is needed to get full benefits of mods but this VM26 works well on stock machines, especially better than the Chinese knockoff carbs.

If you're asking about the rear wheel offset, the stock rims have an offset of 1.5" difference in width depending on which direction they are mounted. Valve stem out is narrowest, valves mounted inward give you 1.5" extra width each side so a total of 3" wider in the rear. Narrow setting would tuck the wheels in under the fender making more aerodynamic at high speeds vs. the wide setting putting the wheels out further.

I build these, this video was intended to help the purchaser have a smooth install. Unfortunately I don't plan to to another batch anytime soon.

With your ATC you could change sprockets if you wanted more top speed, however you will lose some low end power. Adding one tooth to the front or reducing teeth, smaller sprocket to the rear. There are online gear ratio calculators to give you an idea of a potential change

eBay is a primary source for used, occasional NOS (New Old Stock) and some new parts that are cross platform between ATV's and motorcycles. A fair amount of parts interchange such as Tri-Motos YTM200/225, Quads YFM200/225/250 Moto4, YFB250 TimberWolf/Bear Tracker/Bruin 250, Big Wheel and Trailways BW/TW200 and dirt bikes TTR225/230, XT225 all share the same head for instance and top ends. Join some Yamaha Three Wheeler groups on FB as many times parts and information is available.

Thank you sir. Purchased from the original owners

Hi, the black 85 DR was the slow poke of the bunch considering the conditions were the same for all of the trikes. It's a low hour machine and ran fine so I believe the tires were the biggest factor being they are smaller diameter then other 22"s and rather heavy. That's the only way to affect gearing/speed on shaft drive machines with the exception of increasing the max motor rpm by the likes of a rev box CDI.

The video was intended to provide additional instructions/demonstration for several person's I built the custom carb for. I did an additional batch of 10 with positive feedback. Unfortunately I don't know when I will have time to do another run.

But we need mooooore 😆

Having watched the entire video a reasonable person would see I have provided one of the most comprehensive and fair top speed tests in addition to providing several other YTM225's for comparison.

@@marcusaurelius8717 all my trikes but one are back in MN. I currently work in FL where I have an 85 225DR

Reproduction Simpson M50 MX helmet

Hello, for a Timberwolf YFM250 motor swap you will need to use the smaller yoke from the YTM225DX or DR trike as the Timberwolf is bigger and elongated so won’t fit into the swing-arm housing with out causing damage. As for the wiring, you just need to simply swap in a DX or DR stator to the Timberwolf motor and it run with the existing trike electrical harness

@@2wo2wo5ives8 good idea! Thanks for the info!

Sorry for the late reply Jordan. I did a mid-gear swap with a reverse model which requires some modifications to the cover as the left side cases are different between the models. I have a complete write up on how to do it in pdf but have not gotten around to making a vid post. The mod has been working flawlessly for two seasons now

@@2wo2wo5ives8 ha too late already did the swap! Went pretty smooth. I replaced the center case halves so the reverse cover bolted right on. That's allot of work though. You did it with the stock dx center case? I would love to learn more about that. I Have another dx to add reverse too.

I got lucky, paid $700 from the original owner two summers ago. Prices are all over depending on where you live and availability. Down in FL this same trike could fetch upwards of $2500

Yeah, we do mph in America

@@colinl5951 he has literacy issues lol