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A rock tumbler with some ball bearings will grind that stuff up pretty good. Might take a day but you only have to load it once and it doesn’t need babysitting. Cut a lengthwise slit in that PVC pipe mold and stick a hose clamp on it. Undo the clamp when it’s time to take out the sample. Great video especially giving us the numbers for the ingredients. I’ve seen too many others leave that part out.

Could this formula hold for building the dome of pizza oven? Btw I intend to craft a small light weight portable pizza oven, would appreciate your urgent reply.

Hi there from St Albans UK. I recently set up a de-rusting bath to clean up tools and to good effect. This adds another dimension which can take one into the more creative realm of selective de-rusting to create an artistic piece. It also allows for lengthy and delicate items ( your ruler ) to be de-rusted without a long container. So, I thank you for your creative thinking and generosity in sharing this. I am also interested in building a forge to work metals for jewellery and tools. I really appreciated your video on making refractory bricks. Your explanation of the chemical equation took me back 50 years to my secondary school chemistry classes and the description of how the resulting powder reacts with water to proiduce the insoluable brick which formed under a weight becomes rigid and usable. Regarding producing cylindrical bricks I think a plastic pipe cut in half down its length could then be re-assembled ( with a few locating lugs added ) and clamped with wire. Pressure applied from the top with a weight bearing onto a suitably shaped plunger. I guess you did something similar in your simple round forge video ? Many thanks from one inquisitive mind to another.

@Drjtherrien, what method did you use to compress the refractory tube?

Drjtherrien, How do you think that would hold up in a the burn box of a rocket stove where logs/sticks are bumping and scraping it quite consistently?

I turned my volume up to 100% and still found it hard to hear your voiceover

I'm curious if you tried adding a "reasonable" amount of regular Portland cement or simple Plaster of Paris to the mix? Seems like it might help hold it together better (?) I'd still compress it while curing though - also would be interesting to vacuum bag it, or put the whole brick mold (including weights) in a vacuum chamber. Looking forward to hitting my local harware store for some supplies :) thanks

Use a finely divided aluminum powder instead of shavings and the reaction can be initiated by a match and it will be self-sustaining. It will glow red hot while the elements combine. Be careful with the aluminum sulfide product as it will hydrolyse in moist air, giving off the very poisonous hydrogen sulfide gas.

I found this incredibly helpful for making great refractory bricks. Do you also have a recipe for refractory cement?

Thanks for the explanation and visual! Your nephew is quite proud of you!

Smelting

dismissable tip - to mix dust, try putting a lid on then rolling & shaking. let it settle a moment after.

can this be used for pizza oven ?

Talkalot Doolittle

Make them enterlock like a lego kinda !

The awful noise ends around 7:00, for those who have ripped their headphones off their heads or lunged for the speaker to make it stop

This looks ideal for bricks for the bottom of my forge, thanks for sharing the process and giving the pitfalls too.

Doesn't quenching with water make steel brittle and air doesn't quench I'm pretty sure the best way to quench is with used motor oil

Making an electrolyte for a super capacitor. Turning Prussian blue into sodium ferrocyanide.

Super tripple phosphate is calcium dihydrogen phosphate, CaH4P2O8. If Ca3P2O8 is your goal add the calcium in slight excess.

Could you use this technique to make solar panels?

Super.

@Dritherien - I tried thit today but didnt seem to work. Vety clay like and loose. How long does the reaction take ? Imay have veen a little impatient.

Nothing with calcium is going to be very high temp.

This is awesome

the perlite could be graded to increase brick strength (maybe reducing the maximal temperature that can withstand before cracking). The biggest flow here, in a metallurgic case, is having unreacted hydrated lime. at 512°C, hydrated lime would become just lime, and it will reduce the volume (creating surface cracking visible in the tested surface). low amount of unreacted hydrated lime does not really matter, but large amounts of it could produce "rock slaking" during thermal cycling. to reduce the problem, you can: leave the water for longer (allowing more time to complete the reaction, but one day may not be enough) make a second stage of curing, but this time under water with some phosphate dissolved to react any remaining lime in the surface (this may take time also time, but this would reduce the problems with the surface reaching the critical temperature of 512°C, as it would not microcrack) there could be still some hydrated lime in the core of the brick, but at that point it could acts as self healing roman concrete (if water somehow manage to get there there could become powder eventually tho). most of unreacted lime would be in large granules of lime with a heavy coat of calcium phosphate. other thing: calcium phosphate is not soluble in water. but if the water is slightly acidic, you will dissolve quiet a lot. this may not be the best material to make an insulated fireplace exposed to rain (all rain is acidic).

Can you superphosphate instead of tripple phosphate?

Have you tried the aluminum foil and sodium silicate reaction? (makes alumino silicates, I think?).

How does this compare to plaster of paris/sand (or other aggregate combo)?

To confirm your conclusion about the porosity and thermal insulation capacity of ground up perlite--consider fumed silica. Fumed silica is much more fine granular than how perlite usually comes, and yet it is far, far more thermally insulating than perlite. It is because it has so many porous micro-structures within the material, and such small micro pores (really a lot of surface area per given volume), that is is very efficient at stilling/trapping air molecules within its matrix. Fumed silica in on par with aeorgels in terms of thermal insulation, and is the most common core spacing material used in vacuum insulated panels (VIP's).

This is very useful. I would love to see this made into small furnace/forge with a ribbon burner.

thanks for showing, it took me ages to learn this!!! but I know now! :)

Hi, are you sure this isn’t producing CaHPO4 with an excess of Ca(OH)2? This would explain a reaction from leaving it uncompressed (lime carbonation, and perhaps some pozzolanic reaction with SiO2 from the perlite). I was thinking that considering the hi yield product is only 65% Ca(H2PO4)2, it would either be an 8.5g excess of phosphate for Ca3(PO4)2, or a 2.4g excess of lime for CaHPO4. I’m just going into the garage now to test something, I’ll let you know how I go.

Would tin snips work to cut along the length?

Hey, after reading the comments and saw that 1.77/1 is the possibly the correct ratio, is this true, if so would you use the same procedure as shown in the video? Also do you know the weight and size/bolume of the bricks. Trying to figure an estimate of how many bricks I could forseeably make and if its worth the time(for me) thanks! Ps also is there a direct alternative for the triple super phosphate(like maybe Dicalcium or monocalcium phosphate? Not a chemistry man so I dont know the affect it would have entirely haha)? I can't get it near me anyways so if I have to order it anyways I figure I may as well get something that isn't marked up for gardening. Thanks again!

Is triple phosphate the same as STPP (sodium triply phosphate tech or food grade powder)?

What do you think about adding fireclay as a binder? Do you think that would work?

Nice video however there is a lot of distortion of the microscope section of the video.

Don’t mix while your talking it makes it harder to hear what your saying

That's really interesting. I wonder if you bound the mixed powders in something like sodium silicate, it would make a refractory paint? Im rebuilding my forge with lightweight insulating firebricks and was going to add a very thin sacrificial layer of calsil board. I might try your mix with sodium silicate to add a thin layer of additional protection on the calsil. Very clear and well thought out video. Thanks. Jim

Hi. Thank you for making this Video. Here in the UK it's quite difficult to find Hydrated Lime but I can easly buy Calcium Hydroxide 98% powder. In what ratio should I use it with Triple Super Phosphate? Please. Thank you, Regards.

هلو يا معلم رائع ممكن سؤال هل يوجد ماده لاسق صنع بوتقه نار حتى يتماسك

Thanks. I once made a parallel port to one 7 segment display, say to show the time, one digit after the other. For the pins, I had to coordinate the Basic (i think) program to the segments. I found the byte values for each numeric digit of the corresponding led segments. It could display any numeric value, etc. I suppose there are circuits available now to easilly make numeric displays.

Hello how are you my friend can I name mixing materials and how much weight I don't understand the translation if possible ❤

I want to make di calcium phosphate please give me their process

Is there any possibility of developing a refractory based on MgO or SiO². I would like to get into cast iron and Ca³(PO⁴)² melts at 1670°C which is a bit close for my liking. Awesome recipe. By far the best I've seen on TH-cam (most use Portland cement😢). I've seen a couple of good geopolymers but were harder to source the raw materials.

Awesome video's. You have earned another subscription. I hope your channel grows in the years to come

How did you make it? I could make some anhydrous ammonia but I don't have a good way of condensing it. I'm planning to use some to remove oil stains from a driveway. Concrete is basic so acid piranha would probably damage it.