วีดีโอ

Project was completed and came out exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

@jimmypotts4516 It's all covered in the various videos. The harder part was blocking the water port that's internal on the exhaust elbow that put water into the exhaust. Very small hole and inside the elbow from the water jacket of the elbow.

@shutinyanks on this bike the return cable is the only one that had an adjustable cable shield.

All the various parts were bought at multiple online Kart shops and or eBay. As far as what parts you will need, I have no clue. If your attempting a build like this you will definitely need to problem solve as you progress.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 pillow blocks w/ jack shaft and how did you adapt to crank on motor, Also the clutches as well

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 All im asking is how u adapted the clutch, pillow blocks and shaft to the motor

I had to have 2 custom machined gears for the motor. I may still have them if your interested.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 I'm interested.. can u please send me photos

Thats an odd one. If the pull cable is sticky the return will be slowed down no matter how good that cable is. You will have to cheetah cable individually, the barrel on the bar without cables hooked up to it, and the linkage on the carb(s).

That can definitely cause it. I've also pulled out the " push return " cable to fix the issue. Just know that you need to make sure the return spring is working properly if you pull out the return cable. Many bikes especially off road do not use 2 cables.

Additionally, if the cable is being pinched it will not release. In that case it will have to be rerouted.

Hell ya. Glad this vid is still doing what I intended it to do.

Best of luck. You can always pull the return cable and do a single pull only cable.

That’s what I ended up doing too! I did it this morning and fixed my issue. The only thing going on now is if I tighten down the bolt on the throttle plate it does not snap back so I got nut pretty loose at the moment so I’m not sure what’s going on there

Search for "All Balls Racing" on the internet. They have a chart that will get you the correct bearing set. If in the instructions it says to space under the lower bearing, keep in mind the extra space of the neck tube that can be trimmed off as I did in this video. It helps so that you may not have to buy an expensive stem.

Turned out great. It did need more gear range without changing the gear sets but thats life. At lower gear ratios, the front was way too light and it wasn't drivable since you couldn't turn with tire off the ground.

Dual performance go kart clutches. The videos cover it.

Disconnect both cables from the throttle barrel and see if the function properly. If they do and the barrel spins free on the bar end. The cables need slack in some way. You can always remove the reputable and run a pull cable only. Just make sure the return spring definitely functions.

If you have 2 throttle cables, you can eliminate the return cable and use only the pull cable. This can be done for diagnosis as well as permanent. If you run it permanently just make sure the return spring system is working properly. If the pull cable shielding or throttle barrel is damaged, the throttle will not return. These steps and option will help diagnose additional problems.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 thanks for replying , my throttle snaps back like it should but it's hard to twist on the gas , I haven't seen anyone with this problem , so I think the return cable is working but the pull cable is not I think it's coming off the throttle tube like in your video but it looks like you can't adjust the other end of the cable like you did as there is only one nut , i have thought about removing the return cable just worried that might cause problems like stuck throttle lol

I would disconnect both cables and test the slide of each individually. Also work the mechanism at the carb end to see how is functioning without any cables connected.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 yep done that , they work fine off the bike carb spring works good too , I'm thinking of trying to rout the cables in a different way , there is nothing else I can think of, I'll let you know what it was if I ever do get it fixed 🤣 I just spent heaps on the bike getting a tune and a exhaust but I can't enjoy it because the dam throttle don't turn 🤬

Yes I do

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500I would like to buy one. What’s your email? I can send you details.

Well thank you. I was above 1000 before but I go on binges of no new content and then binges of posting new stuff week after week. One day I'll hit it bug and become a TH-cam star 😉 😉

Your welcome. Hope it solved your issue.

It didn't.. Now I just scratch my head

You can remove the "return" cable either for diagnostics or forever. If its because of 2 cables this will definitely fix it. If its something else, it will help narrow the issue.

Your welcome. If all else fails, remove the return cable and run only the pull cable. Although this video should solve the issue.

You didn't miss it. They are just a set I had laying around. Most likely you can find a set on ebay. If your talented enough to do the rake you can definitely swap out shock bushings IF needed. I think these are 2 inches shorter but not exactly sure.

I believe the OE length is 12.5. I can measure the ones on it if you'd like.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 I measured the OE length at 320mm or ~12.59 inches. Same as you. Yes, if you could measure the ones you have on this build, that'd help me source similar rear shocks & springs. Thanks!

Dang, I knew I would forget. I'm on vacation currently and will set a reminder for myself.

They are 11 inches long from center to center at full extension. Probably easy to find on ebay.

You can switch to a single "pull" cable. Many bikes only use 1 cable to pull the throttle open.

Off hand I would say its around 60 lbs

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 do you have videos of it running/driving?

Typically only 1 has an adjustment point. Once you find that then you adjust it and that almost always fixes the issues. If that doesn't work then I remove the return cable and only run a pull cable.

They are my favorite platform to build on as you can probably tell. I've done 3 bobbers, 4 cafes, and now the current raked out lowered one.

This is going to require basically a phone call. Are you on FB so I can PM you my #

I'm shooting for a month from now. This one will not be torn down and a complete repaint. It will be offered for sale with OE paint on tank and only the frame areas with bare metal repainted. If the buyer wants a "full job" it will be offered after purchase.

Oh! Ya you did it to yourself there. The CX is my favorite platform to build on. Glad you like this one. I've not done a rake on any bike until this on.

Sorry for the delay, I was on a cruise ship. I used a pair of Hilliard Fury clutches with a jack shaft.

If all else fails, going to a single "pull only" cable will also fix it.

@@thedutchmanandthedigger1500 I have a honda rebel 500 with pull and push cables

You can always switch to a single "pull" cable. I've done that on a few just to cut down on the number of cables.

The ski engine was removed and a 11hp Briggs was installed. The ski motor was just too much. After the Briggs was installed, the Kart was sold. All videos of it are here on my channel.

Not sure how long it will take as I have no clients lined up that want USD for conversions.

Thank you and yes the box will fit under the engine much like the CX/GL boxes I build and sell. Although it will only have 2 mounting tabs and it doesn't swing down.

Only thought would be if the cable has a fluid/lube inside hat is thickening when colder. You may have to figure out if its cable related or carb related.

Glad to help. I love finding ways around spending $. This was a simple work around and saved time as well. The cost of Cognito components is outrageous.

No, I have never had to. Most only have 1 adjustable cable. Some have 2 locations to adjust though.

Thanks so much!

Once it was built and ran for a few months, the motor was pulled and swapped out for a Briggs 11hp. It was just too much motor to make use of. I couldnt keep the front down and that made it difficult to run any track.