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2014, works on any 14-18 year model.

That's about it BUT I would go more than 3mm: maximize that surface area against the aluminum head so it doesn't groove. Try to just clear the diameter of the camshaft.

@@MY1PATH did you use a stone or a lathe?

@@Lordprimate Lathe, squared against a spud. See other comments for details. Lapping was done on sandpaper.

I haven't had to deal with that before. But maybe you can pry the plastic ring off and then slip a bent wire (coat hanger) in the hole next to your broken knob and pull it up. Or you may have to remove the fabric off the back to see inside...

I'm running a universal wastage actuator with boost reference directly from the turbo. It is the simplest way of accomplishing basic control. On a TD27 or similar size, set up your nozzle stop screw so the vanes have a 2.5 mm gap. A gap of 2.0 will provide 'instant' spool which is cool to watch but doesn't actually make it faster. (Higher EGT's less fuel economy & more air than you need at any given moment). If you are chasing fuel economy you can open it up as much as 4-4.5mm or play with it until you find a balance you are happy with.

If you buy the kit it comes with the tools. If you buy the inserts, they come with nothing but the inserts. See Video description for more details. ALSO, mine ended up failing. So I had proper adapters machined to use instead. See comments below.

Sorry, I am not fabricating products at this time. I have also been in touch with Mishimoto and they do not plan on making a Forester version. My best advice would be to take a Mishimoto Rad to a radiator shop and have them braze/weld the AC mounting brackets directly to the radiator. This will interfere less with the radiator mounting tabs and fit better than the brackets I made.

The F710 was great back when console controllers didn't work well on windows. Those days are long gone. My Xbox One S, Switch Wireless Pro and PS4 controllers all connect to PC and serve their desired purpose without issue. (I don't even own those consoles) Out of the box they are just better and they are highly customizable. U Play, Steam, Microsoft and other mainstream games/ game hosts have excellent native support for the Xbox One S controller. Also on some timing critical games I noticed that the Logitech would lag just enough to make me miss my timing. the worst was timed free running sequences in AC Syndicate.

See previous comments, some one beat you to the correction by 8 years... It's also mentioned in the description.

WG actuator with boost directly from the turbo. VGT's may be more efficient with advanced control methods, but they aren't required.

You can but the seat back may fold different. With out having the bottom to lean on.

Just pull on it gently. It makes more sense once you get in there.

@@MY1PATH as in pull it down then out? i havent opened it yet waiting for my pens to be delivered 😁

@@Souneed Either end, the springs sit on little pegs with a foam damper inside the spring.

@@MY1PATH thank you !

@@MY1PATH rip i just got my pens g2 tried to change spring for my f310 logitech but the springs dont fit sad sad the come out as soon as buttong is clicked dunno if i got the wrong g2 pen version coz urs is a g2 pen - 07 and mine is g2 pen - 10

are you serious? yes he is dead! 20sec at 20psi 🤦‍♂...I'm faster on the stock turbo

@@x20-team A lot was going on there, it wasn't just a 0-110km/h. 110F weather no intercooler and no fuel increase over the previous turbo I was running and I was accelerating up a hill because I wanted to see it build boost with some resistance. Since then I have added intercooling and gone to a larger turbo. I've got it to 30PSI and the engine seems to love it but the transmission hates it.

I remember asking myself the same question but I don't recall what I did about it. Maybe I used washers? A few of the insert ended up cracking about a year later and they were a PITA to remove so I had some conversion bases machined and never looked back. I found myself adjusting the valves less often too! Take a hydro lifter and a solid lifter to a competent machinist and tell him you want. For me, the peace of mind is worth the price tag.

The mod is nothing new to the Z world and I don't know if anyone else had this problem. At the time my Z basically lived in the 4-7k range on my weekend canyon drives. Every few months it would come back ticking like a sewing machine and I would re-adjust. One time I found 2 or 3 lifter bases were loose and half a time-sert came up with them so I got the right parts made and the valvetrain stayed silent.

@@MY1PATH Thank you very much!

Take note of the orange pads towards the end of the video, those are the trigger position sensors you may have misaligned them taking things apart. The trigger does not need to come off to put the spring in but if you took it off you may have changed the clocking of that sensor...

Open it up and clean it? Cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol but don't leave any fibers. Check under the button rubbers for dried sweat, spilled soda, dirt etc... Contact "Dots" on bottom of button rubbers should be uniform color, clean and dry. Use endust or electronics cleaner to spray out micro switches, stick sensors and trigger sensors. My daughter drooled on her controller (appearanly the left stick is chew toy during cutscenes?) , literally half the internals were coated in dried saliva and it was worthless, the strategy above brought it back to life 100%.

But if it's just worn out, it may be time for another. I highly recommend the Xbox One S (or newer) Bluetooth controller. PS4 and PS5 work good too with Steam profiles.

@@MY1PATH my daughter did the same but I don't think it needs to be cleaned I think she changed modes or something

@@MY1PATH I just bought it 4 day's ago 😭😭

Yes, it was less work on the fingers.

That's good question but I don't think you can. I have since moved on to using an Xbox wireless controller(bluetooth) with my PC games, never been happier. Native support for more games and zero issues with input lag.

@@MY1PATH Yea, im thinking of getting a ds4 instead. Its the best and most comfortable to me, but prices isnt too friendly. Im debating whether i should buy a ds4 or a f710 since its on sale for 29.99 on amazon. I might just spend the extra $30 for a ds4.

Those mods work great on stock ECU. Keep it moderate on the porting. If it's a street truck or wheeler casting seams and valve shrouding (on the port side) is all you need to work on.

@@MY1PATH the plan for the truck is to be a street/wheeler so really the higher up power is what were after for now at least. first idea was a TB polish, and still might proceed. after driving my 3.3 5spd for the last 2 years then driving that, I now understand why the 33e swap might be considered the best "drop in" upgrade. but I, and my brother have read and seen what they can do so were really interested in pushing it a little.

Yes! Boost and mods supporting boost are the big reasons to run nistune.

@@MY1PATH oh cool I'll get in touch with nistune as from eat I was reading you havto let them know that it's dor a d21 wd21 in advance

@@joelball3728 yes, the truck chips have to come directly from nistune Australia.

Hey mate who did you deal with? Are you able to let me know so i can deal with them please? Iv been told it won't work?

@@joelball3728 DIRECTLY FROM NISTUNE AUSTRALIA. POC is Matt, Matt IS nistune. Talk to him before buying.

I’m pretty sure there isn’t one, I’ve never bled mine in my 300 either just topped it off

Good question, can you reach a needle nose or extended needle nose into the hole? Is the knob broken or missing? If its missing can you screw a new one in?

I believe I am running MECM-V171 (91-93 MT FED) I think MECM-v136 (94-95 MT FED) is also in the database. I'll double check next time I'm in my laptop.

Correction, MECM-V171A and MECM-V131 are what I found in the ROM list. And only an .ent for the v131. Both are 91-93 MT FED and Nistune compare function tells me they are identical. If there's a difference between the two ECU's, Nistune hasn't found it.

yeah man, just don't tighten them as much as the Nissan manual says. They just need to be snug enough to hold the adjustment.

Just use them for part numbers now...

When both Wheels had traction on dry road they would turn different speeds. If I goosed the throttle the inside wheel would lock up and spin. But yes, on lower traction surfaces it acted just like a spool.

You are correct! But someone beat you to that comment by 5 years.

@@MY1PATH yes sir, but I'm very thankful I saw this post. Presently looking for the parts for my old project car