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Vu Le 3D
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2018
My adventures in 3d dentistry, design and printing
MINTEMP, THERMAL RUNAWAY - dealing with cold room issues on Prusa MK3 and Mini printers
Prusa recommends a 17 C room temperature, but our rooms can be colder than that, especially in a winter time garage.
MIN TEMP errors can be dealt with by hitting reset and preheating immediately. If that doesn't work, you'll have to blow dry the print bed and heat block to get them warm enough to preheat.
THERMAL RUNAWAY is when the heater block drops in temperature for too long. It is a protective mechanism to prevent printer jamming. But it stops your print dead. One workaround is to reduce your part cooling for PLA down to 75%. In this video, I walk through how to make those setting changes in PrusaSlicer 2.1.1
MIN TEMP errors can be dealt with by hitting reset and preheating immediately. If that doesn't work, you'll have to blow dry the print bed and heat block to get them warm enough to preheat.
THERMAL RUNAWAY is when the heater block drops in temperature for too long. It is a protective mechanism to prevent printer jamming. But it stops your print dead. One workaround is to reduce your part cooling for PLA down to 75%. In this video, I walk through how to make those setting changes in PrusaSlicer 2.1.1
มุมมอง: 872
วีดีโอ
How to change nozzles on a Prusa i3 MK3S
มุมมอง 22K4 ปีที่แล้ว
I use a torx t10 precision screwdriver, a channel lock plier to stabilize the heat block, and a 7 mm ratcheting socket wrench to turn the nozzle. A cardboard cover for the print bed is also very handy for keeping your hands from getting burned if you decide to preheat the bed while you are working.
Stirring support
มุมมอง 7106 ปีที่แล้ว
In order to support my large resin washing container, I designed a support platform to hitch onto the back of the magnetic stirrer. Acknowledgements to Baron Grutter for the stirring platform idea, as well as the lid cutout for washing the prints. Get the STL file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2754977 Parts list: Stirring platform amzn.to/2D77ZaO Lunch On The Go Lunch Container Set with Removable ...
Why remove the fan and shroud? Can do without taking them off.
Nozzle needs to be heated at 285c and recalibrate the print bed
I want to change nozzles so bad on my mk3s and this makes it look super easy. My only problem is all my co-workers that have done a nozzle swap soon there after either had leaks or something going wrong. I'd hate to change a nozzle and then my printer no longer prints properly...
Instead of putting a cardboard on the bed, just go to the Settings menu and heat up the extruder only.
the recommended temperature for tightening the nozzle is 280C from Prusa with a torque spec of 2.5Nm, which is just finger-tight. Best to follow the spec lest filament starts leaking
I know the video is two years old now, but it's worth mentioning that you need to be careful with the channel lock pliers that you don't crush the extruder heater wires or the thermistor wires. They emerge from the left side of the hot end (viewed from the front). You'll find out soon enough if you do crush them as you'll get heater failure or mintemp errors immediately you turn the printer on.
Great vid! Newbie here and getting my Prusa today! Want to get right in to CF Nylon and install a hard nozzle. Should I put it on from the beginning and run through set up steps with the CF Nylon?
So much valuable information. Thanks for that! What camera mount do you use? Chest mount?
Yes! Helps a lot! Prusa doesn’t tell you to change nozzle size in settings!
Thanks for this! I've been afraid to mess with my nozzle-- running the stock one for four years now :o But you make it look easy, dropping some key notes I appreciate. Wish me luck :D
I'm so scared of getting burned.
Cardboard doesn't stop my nuts from bouncing.
Why did you heat the bed and not just heat the nozzle? (Manually in the settings)
He said early on that he wanted to keep it warm so he could print right afterwards.
Thank you for this. Prusa's video on this subject is old, vague, and (as many of the comments over there suggested) basically lying by omission. After reading all those comments talking about how people could (and have) broken their printers by following Prusa's instructions, I was scared to even try. I'm still apprehensive about it (so I'm not going to try swapping to the hardened steel nozzle I bought with the printer until *after* I've finished all the prints I need to do for work), but this video *really* helps.
Since you are not using a torque wrench, how do you know how much pressure is needed for the nozzle to be secure enough but not too much so it doesn’t damage the heat break? What is “1 finger pressure” exactly?
You push with one finger, and it approximately meets the recommended force. Doesn’t have to be exact.
thank you, this pace and clarity of the video perfectly explained what I need to do to swap my nozzle.
i did not think it was this much involved changing the nozzle. thank you for the video
It's really not. Video is about 7 minutes too long
The main issue is making sure you don’t apply undue pressure to the heating block while loosening/tightening, which requires you to hold it in place with something. Only way to get a good grip is to remove those parts. You can try swapping it without holding the heating block in place, and you may be lucky to not cause any damage. But really you should avoid doing it that way.
Nice vid
How do you make sure the nozzle does not ram into the bed after changing it? Would "First layer calibration" help with that? Thanks for the video!
I would run prusa setup wizard, just to be safe.
Just adjust the PINDA Probe up or done accordingly
You may rather need to run hot end PID calibration