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If you have a second with a harness what’s the use case for this?

EDK is the best knot hands down. Always was always will be. Of course as with anything there are exceptions, and a comprehensive understanding of how knots operate under load is advisable. The point of a low profile knot is that it is less likely to snag when the rope is pulled, which is quite important when you are many pitches from the ground.

Just add a second overhand. It still pulls more cleanly. It’s also a LOT less likely to be tied wrong at the end of the day when you’re tired and visibility isn’t as good. Those knots look good for rescues potentially

I was trained on this years ago as an instructor, but this was a great refresher since I've gotten a little rusty. Thanks!

Oh hey, a purcell method that doesn't make me want to choke people, thanks!

Awesome girl thanks

This saved me in a pinch. I had just kayaked a ways to a crag for some lead-rope solo, gotten all my gear out, and built a ground anchor before I realized I had forgotten my harness. Fortunately I had decided to bring my cordelette and my phone. Thanks!

Why would you fall if they unweight? They are still attached to the rope, you”re still attached to the rope, you would just lower a few feet if they stood up. Assuming you both have a third hand in. With stopper knots in the rope and third hand Prussiks the system is closed without attaching yourselves together.

Lol, watching that board bend as you weight it :-) Good video

You can also clove-hitch rappel to your PAS (eg, Petzel Connect Adjust but not the duel one)

really well done thank you

sound and solid but yeah often the material gets tossed around for "faster" rappel after many hours of approach and climbing...then you or your partner find themselves going down with little more than a locker and a few slings. Hopefully there is many ways to do this!

It's very useful for foot loop and even to belay a climber from the top/ hugs and go ahead Sara🌿🐈💚

Just shared this in my group and in instagram! Thanks so much!

Have you had any issues popping out of the bindings? I pop out of mine minimum 5 times in my 20 minute downhill session every time. I don't know if it's user error or product error..

I should tie a knot with her. She looks very safe. 😉

Given how often the alpine butterfly is noted to isolate a damaged section of a rappel rope, I suggest more consideration of this as the actual knot to join two ropes. It is far easier to untie after loading, lays nearly as flat as the flat overhand, and apparently has no greater slipping tendency under rappelling loads. I have used a back-threaded variation as my gym lead tie-in for years(which I've never advocated for anyone else!), and while it may not be quite as strong as a fig. 8, it's never slipped, in 15 +ft falls around factor 0.3, yet is easily undone afterwards. Caution should always be taken if dissimilar diameters are joined, and it the knot might ride up against an eye, carabiner, etc. where only one strand is actually loaded.

excellent job explaining why its done a certain way.

great video!

I like that. Great trick to know.

That's cool !! Awesome!! I have never seen it done this way before. Thanks, Sarah.

Thank you, Sarah! This has been the best video that I've watched to demonstrate several modifications. So very useful! Kudos!

your ATC gear is on the wrong side to rappel down.

Good points. Good explanation.

That tittle doesn’t do justice to how informative this video is. I’ve been looking for a tutorial on the rappel extension for a while. Thank you!!

Nice I have tried this while rock climbing

Always great content. Thank you. I usually use the basket hitch on a 120 cm sling. I offset the ends and tie an overhand, so I have one short loop for my rappel device and one longer loop as my anchor tether. It seems to work really well and I haven't been hosed yet.

If you have two strands of rope, you should never need to pass a knot on rappel. Fix both strands. First person goes down on the strand of rope that doesn’t have the knot. Unfix both strands. The first person down ties the strand of rope that has the knot into them selves or into the anchor or on a tree or something else, and the second person does a counterbalance rappel on one strand. Bang, both people down with zero knot passing.

Very comprehensive video. Thank you!

thanks! so quick and visual.

Hey ! thank you for this video. i am a mountaineering instructor in India and this technique is useful as i use munter for belaying often.

My friend did this a much easier way. We had just climbed the nose in 2 days. Our first big wall. Freed up to 5.11, French free to 5.12. Then full aid after that. Slept on on a ledge at camp 4, the actual rock , no portaledge, space bags to sleep in, we went light. Now the relevant part. We rapped fixed single lines down the east ledge descent. I went first and had all the climbing gear. My friend Jared had our small haul bag. His ATC was in the bottom of the bag and I had my spare rappel figure 8, so I gave that to him for the rappel. Within 200’ of the bottom, I noticed the rope had a knot joining another 60 meter rope to the ground. I also noticed chains to my right with another fixed 60 meter rope to the ground. Seemed easier, so I swung over switched ropes at a ledge, then rappelled to the ground. Jared didn’t see me do this, and didn’t notice the knot until he was on it. By good luck and some bouncing, the knot went throw the large eye of the figure eight rappel device. Badda-Bing Badda-Bang passed the knot in seconds. Knot a recommendation though🙀

Thanks!

Wow, didn't know I needed this. Good beta

Great video !

This is the best pas break down I've seen. 3 years of personal research in 6min. Good job. only feedback: could have spent more time on dynamic pas ( rope /dynamic slings are rated for multiple ff2's ) vs static pas ( dyneema fails + increases forces / nylon often fails ).

I wonder what's the etimology of the knot's name

Is this really more secure than a flemish bend?

But the Daisy chain support around 3kn thats not real ?

Appreciate your videos a lot! Quality content. In the longest, and less redundant configuration, clipping only the bottom loop, you say (2:57) that a biner on the other side is necessary to prevent the overhand from rolling. Wouldn't it be stopped by the fact that it's a loop? I can totally see how a biner to close the system would matter for the other two systems though (your favorite overhand on a bight i.e. folded over configuration 0:43) and the basket hitch configuration (3:38).

Good stuff Sarah, thank you

Watching your videos helps me with my depression. I wish you all the best. I hope you continue to educate people about the joys of climbing. Keep up the good work young lady!

Hi Sarah. Enjoyed your video. I am also a fan of the Garda hitch and stumbled on your video after publishing my own. I thought you might enjoy seeing the bull hitch variant i used in mine. Not promoting, just sharing. Cheers. th-cam.com/video/OirPmQYueWQ/w-d-xo.html

Excellent content!

I was just taught the fig 8 with retrace for an anchor, I don't know why I'd ever tie a flat figure 8 when I know a double fishermans, but that's really good to know it's dangerous when pulled that way. Thank you!

Great job young lady! You are a good instructor. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the nice video. In my opinion, it's much better to leave the follower tethered until they are ready to rappel. Without it, they could be in for a rude awakening if they aren't paying attention when the leader shifts their weight unto the next anchor. Seems worth the minor drawback of inconveniencing the follower with cleaning the anchor to me.

Thank you very much for helping me with my depression. You give me a few minutes of solace.

Is there a reason you would use the garda to attach your footloop sling to the rope instead of attaching the sling directly with a kleimheist? Easier to release I guess?

Great video! One thing to note is that using a knot in your sling is going to be a real bear to get out after you weight it. My current solution to this is to keep a dedicated tether (120cm nylon) with an overhand knot about half way for extending the rappel, because that knot is never coming out. Just like you show at 2:12. I was seeking out a way to slim down my setup and get rid of single-purpose items like that. A wise old Gunks guy on FB suggested this, which blew my mind: Using a double length dyneema sling, clove hitch your rappel biner in about half way, wherever you like it. I've only tried this out hanging in my basement but it seems to work great. I use both legs of the sling, but you still get 11kn if you use one strand. Using a bigger biner helps a lot, which led me to also ditch my belay-specific BD Gridlock biner (figure 8 style) for a standard HMS. Cheers!