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Without the label I cannot tell you for sure. At 4oz/k you would mix 1.3 gallons of fertilizer with the 40 gallon tank. However, I would caution you that you would be applying with less than 1 gallon of water per thousand square feet. The best approach would be two tank mixes depending on your turf layout and tank calibration.

@@ReelTurf thank you! I am not sure how to attach a label on here but it calls out for 3oz /k per gallon of water. All purpose liquid fertilizer with micronutrients (Pendleton turn supply). I have Bermuda sod around our house then native every where else. The net weight is 26.25# . 2.5 gal jug. So do you think i am on the right track with liquid application or not?

With your property size, liquid is definitely the way to go. I found your product label. At 3oz/k you’re putting down about 1/16 rate of Nitrogen per thousand (very low). They suggest that rate to be sprayed every two weeks (spoon feeding) which is a great approach since it contains slow release nitrogen. However let’s be real, spraying every two weeks can be challenging. You could double the rate and spray every 3-4 weeks and be fine. Totally up to you. I typically don’t go over a 1/4 rate of N in a spray application on Bermuda during the summer to avoid burning and surges of growth. Unless you’re using a plant growth regulator, you can expect to be mowing 3 times per week once the Bermuda takes off with the fertilizer app. With your property size t-nex would be highly recommended. Link in the description if interested. The PGR will help you avoid scalping, control surges of growth, and get more out of your fertilizer app. It’s the secret sauce!

Like any herbicide, don’t spray it in the heat of the day. I would recommend the evening to allow a cool night to help dry the plant. You might have some yellowing occur on the Bermuda but it will bounce back easily.

Thank you 🙏 😊

Glad it was helpful!

Hey thanks for reaching out! By flex pipe I’m assuming you’re talking about the type you would run in a flower bed for drip line (minus the drip holes). That pipe is usually connected in line with a pressure regulator that keeps the water pressure below 30 psi. Flex pipe is not typically used for normal sprinkler runs. You will want to use swing pipe for areas that you need to add a single head somewhere. Swing pipe can handle the normal pressure that a zone is carrying. Otherwise if you’re planning a zone, you’ll need pvc pipe to meet the proper flow rates. Hope that helps!

@@ReelTurf I have 3/4” pipe and use it to feed all the sprinklers for each zone. From the pvc pipe to the sprinkler, I’ve used swing pipe. Now, I am trying to add another sprinkler from an existing head rather than from the main pvc pipe. The distance is 10’ and was wondering if I should use swing pipe or flex pipe. Home Depot’s website says flex pipe is rated a max 100 psi but the swing pipe is only 30 psi.

I see what you’re seeing as well. The swing pipe I used in the video is green. RainBird swing pipe. Look it up on sprinklerwarehouse. Rated at 80 psi. But with that said the HD flex pipe shows to be rated at 100 psi and would also do the job.

Appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed it!

RainBird designed this hose barb system and it does not require clamps.

@@ReelTurf Thanks.

Moments I’ll always cherish!

Glad it helped!

Awesome! There are several better options out there. Glad you found one.

@@ReelTurf What is the frequency of your applications and how much N per 1000 are you applying with each app? How much N are your applying in total over the season?

Luckily I bought it before they were “cool.” It’s an awesome machine!

Appreciate that! It’s not the clutch. Mine does the same thing. It’s the belt slipping on the pulley that engages reel drive. I believe it’s a common issue on the flex2100 in general. When I open up that housing the radius on the belt is very small and it makes sense that it would squeal. I came across a greenskeeper video not long ago of them mowing a green. When they engaged the reel, same squeal. Drives me nuts to but I can assure you it’s not the clutch. Based on the way the clutch is designed, it would also squeal in traction mode if it were a clutch issue. Hope that helps!

@@ReelTurf that makes a lot of sense. Guess I'll put the clutch I bought to the side for the future. Thanks.

They’re great! The only thing I would have done differently, is add a 3/4 ball valve. I know it sounds stupid… without it when you disconnect the hose, the water pressure in the hose blows out all over you. The ball valve would allow you to bleed the hose pressure down before disconnecting assuming you’re like me and have a spray attachment at the far end. The ball valve would also make it easier for my wife and kids to use the hose.

It’s amazing the difference new hoses made. The leaks were so small that it wasn’t obvious.

Sometimes you just need something easy! Glad it helped.

You’ll enjoy it!

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

@ user-eo8sq5eg9j You're so right. Say it again, louder for the folks in the back that's not listening!!!...😂

It’s definitely a lot of work but worth it. You could weld one out of steel square tubing pretty easily. At the time I didn’t have a welder and wanted something lightweight and used aluminum. It’s still going strong to this day.

Glad you liked it!

@@ReelTurf will be rewatching tomorrow when my bed-knife from RandR delivers. Wanna Make sure i get the order/torque specs right😂.

When using professional products the rate is not so many oz per gallon. Remember in the video I explained how water is simply the carrier. It doesn’t matter if I use 1 gallon per 1k sqft or 50 gallons per 1k sqft, the amount of product going down on the turf would be the same in that 1k sqft section. What it boils down to is having your spray equipment calibrated. However, given your question, I assume you’re using a 1-2 gallon pump sprayer or backpack. In that case you can expect to aim for 1 gallon of water per 1k sqft. In the instance of this fertilizer product, you can use 8-16oz per 1k sqft or per 1 gallon of water. Hope this helps and also provides insight to water as the carrier.

Really appreciate that! I cherish these moments with him.

I do not have freezing winters. I would assume like any rubber pipe it can expand and contract. You would want to make sure you’re buried below the freezing line and blow out the irrigation system prior to winter.

@@ReelTurf Thank you.

Thanks! I’m glad it was helpful.

When preparing for bentgrass, you’ll want to kill and remove all existing grass. The key to bentgrass is a solid pre emergent program throughout the season. There are not many weed killers intended for bent. I used fertilome weed out.

Depending on the condition of the screw heads, I agree.

Yeah I thought the same thing that takes off rotor screws.

Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully we'll be back at it soon.

Cool tip! I haven’t come across that style yet.

Hello. Yes, your calculations are correct. Typical spray rates are .5 to 1 gallon per 1k. This all depends on nozzle sizes and transport speed. You are probably fine with the rate of .5 gallon of water per 1k sqft for most applications. I would never recommend going lower than that. Water is simply the "carrier" for the product to the lawn. It doesn't matter if you use .5 gallon per 1k or 20 gallons per 1k. You would still be applying the same amount of product on the 1k sqft section. With that said, you should always be mindful of what products you are applying and the season you're in. If it is a hot / dry season, you should apply more water to help the turf better absorb the product and reduce your risk of burning or stressing the turf. In your case, you would either slow down the transport speed or simply drive it twice with 22-24 gallons mixed up depending on your tank size.

@@ReelTurf Thanks man! Appreciate the response. While I was trying to figure out how to get more water into the mix I realized I couldn't drive any slower as I was already at the slowest speed setting with the pedal to the floor to keep it repeatable. I also didn't want to drop the PSI to 20 but was leaning in that direction. Not sure why I didn't think of doubling the carrier and driving around twice - that's exactly what I'll do. I guess I could also turn my sprinklers on to water it in if more water is required? I watched your video of the move to SA and how the Lord Jesus provided for you guys, even to something as seemingly insignificant (in the grand scheme of things) as the color of the house. To know that He is a good father (better than any of us will ever be) is compelling and humbling. As I was reading your response to my questions, and wondering what I'd say in return, a familiar verse popped into my head and I feel lead to share it with you, not knowing what you're currently going through. John 16:33 - "I have told you these things, so that in me you may have peace. In this world you will have trouble. But take heart! I have overcome the world."

Been a busy season in life. Hopefully we’ll be back at it soon.

I have often had the same thought and question. I spent some time researching this a few years ago and never found a concrete answer but here are a few things I have determined from research and personal experience. Liquid does in fact work both ways. Yes, it’s primary method of uptake is foliar but it does wash off to the soil for further uptake as well. I found this to be true when I came across liquid labels that stated to apply the fertilizer to the ground during seeding. This proving it does enhance the soil profile. The second thing I have concluded and has been the most noticeable is the difference in granular vs liquid. It’s often not a fair comparison unless you understand the application rates. I have found most granular bag rates come out to about .75 lbs N / 1k sqft whereas a liquid application is typically a lower 1/8 - 1/4 up to 1/2 rate applied more frequently. You specifically asked about boosting K and the ratios work out to be about the same. My conclusion is you can boost levels with liquid over time. If you want to boost it faster in the soil profile a granular application will do the job as it will be a higher rate. All in all, liquid still delivers the best result in turf appearance and bang for your buck. However granular in some cases when specifically asking about boosting individual soil levels, can give faster results.

Thanks!

It was a GTOPRO opener. It doesn’t look like they’re made as that brand anymore. The gate was about 20’x7’. It was built out of a pipe frame and welded thin sheets of steel to it. The opener used a series of sprockets and chain to open and close. The bottom track on the concrete is a flat strap of steel with a small angle iron spot welded as the guide for the track. The wheels were some heavy roller with a groove that fit the angle iron. Pretty simple setup. I really enjoyed having it. It made the backyard feel bigger but also gave us the security for our vehicles. The only drawback with it was keeping the chain lubed. The sprinklers, rain, and pet contribution would tend to rust if not kept up with. When it would rust it would skip a tooth on the sprockets and get the open and close limits messed up.

@@ReelTurf Thanks for the gate info. I’m using a solar operator now and I’d like to switch to something stronger so I can replace the cedar planks with sheet metal. But I didn’t think about the added maintenance needed on the chain, so maybe I’ll hold off on switching for now. Im not looking to add another task to schedule on my calendar. 👍

Welcome and thanks for the heads up! I've updated the links in the description.

This is a good question! Everyone is talking about how they need an eight blade reel. My take on it is this. DIY folks are buying greens mowers from the golf course that are set up to mow extremely low heights of cut. What nobody is talking about is the clip rate settings. Probably because most don’t know it exist. It doesn’t matter what the blade count is on a reel. If the clip rate isn’t set correctly, you will not get a clean cut. In fact, the higher the blade count, the cleaner the cut. I’ve seen on threads where people state the superintendent of their golf club said they needed an eight blade reel for a home lawn. The superintendent isn’t wrong but what they mean is a homeowner doesn’t need a 14 blade reel because of the maintenance and cost of the reel. An eight blade reel is sufficient for the diy homeowner. People have taken this to think that they MUST have an eight blade reel or it will not work. I personally have an eleven blade reel and if I were to buy another reel would choose the eleven blade again. It provides an amazing polished cut on all heights when the clip rate is set correctly. I’ve tried it from .1406” up to .75” and it works every time but the clip rate makes a difference. I’ve used it on bentgrass, Bermuda, and perennial ryegrass. The Toro Greensmaster is a high precision machine and when adjusted properly, the results are outstanding. You are correct that the standard height of cut kit on the Flex2100 ranges up to .5” height. However, you can add the proper spacers to the rear roller and get it to .75” with no problem. Yes it makes the attack angle slightly more aggressive but it does not result in scalping. If your lawn is extremely uneven to cause scalping in this situation, you probably don’t need to be using a reel mower without leveling the lawn. The Flex2100 is designed to flow with the different angulations of the ground. You should not see scalping with this unit if the lawn is fairly level. One last thought on the topic is the height of the grass between cuts matters. It doesn’t matter what reel count or brand of mower you have. If the grass is overgrown between cuts, you will have to mow it a couple of times to get a polished look again. Mowing frequency plays a tremendous part in after cut appearance. All of this to say, if you have a 14 blade reel, stick with it. Set the clip rate by taking off the side cover of the cutting head and place the pulleys in the proper configuration to achieve the ultimate after cut appearance. Ensure you keep your reel sharp with a paper test before each cut. If your fourteen blade reel is at the end of its service life, consider the eleven or eight blade reel to replace it. The Flex2100 is an amazing machine. Keep up with the maintenance and keep it fine tuned and the results are superior every time! Hope this helps!

@@ReelTurf thank you so much for the fast and Informative response.. i think am just going to stick with it it’s in a great shape and very sharp and the bedknife as well. I already bought a 6 inches HOC brackets along with 8 spacers with Allen screws for the rear roller but I think I have to remove the groomer to install that.

That’s correct. Locate the manual for the groomer that you have. You will find there is a height of cut range as well as a spacer count per that range. It plays a part in the adjustability of the groomer. It sounds like you’re all set. Enjoy that mower, it’s a sweet machine!

Links are in the description and yes, it is adjustable. It’s a good multipurpose nozzle for around the lawn. It has a large water flow.

Hey there! These videos will show you how the cutting unit is broken down and put back together. The same procedure will replace the reel. After replacing the reel, the bedknife will also need to be dialed back in. If you want to contact me at info@reelturf.com, I can show you what the spacers do and the height of cut options on the Flex2100. Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 Cutting Unit Assembly Part 1 th-cam.com/video/S3tMOaIKXiA/w-d-xo.html Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 Cutting Unit Assembly Part 2 th-cam.com/video/YDPBAT3l6uY/w-d-xo.html Replacing The Bedknife | All Things Bedknifes | Do It The Right Way th-cam.com/video/Ya2eevDK6-8/w-d-xo.html