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Entschuldigung, ich verstehe die Frage nicht?

Hi Thijs. This is a good question! Hardening and tempering is always a balance between hardness, brittleness , strength and wear resistance. You seem to have the drills on the brittle side. You could only try hardening the tip by protecting the shank with a heat-sink when heating. I think though the hardening process is fine but once you have hardened the drill, you need to temper it to reduce brittleness. Do this by first cleaning the shank of the drill with fine abrasive paper so you can see clean shiny metal. Then, with the drill on a piece of scrap brass sheet, heat from underneath with a spirit lamp. Heat slowly from the shank end (not the drilling tip) and the steel will slowly turn pale yellow, brown, blue etc. When the very palest yellow just about reaches the drill tip, stop the heating. If this goes too far, you will have to re-harden and start again. This tempering process will make the shank of the drill less brittle. Hope this helps! Matthew

Hi Matthew, thank you for your extensive reply. I willl try to temper them as such next time, In the mean while I made a 0.7mm drill without affecting the pivot steels properties, and it has not broken yet. This checks out I guess due to the pivot steel already being tempered, although I do notice the drill being slightly more blunt after lathe usage (probably since pivot steel is tempered to blue?). Your videos hasve really helped my incline plane clock build. Cheers, Thijs.

@@thijsrikkerink6333 Yes, blues pivot steel as found will work but as you say, it is relatively soft so will need lots of re-sharpening or re-hardening the tip. Good material though to use as blanks. M

Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciated.

I just finished my work with this clock and it came through beautifully. It just required thinking things through before just diving into it. Of course, these are time=only movements, so you're not dealing with that complication. Winding a fusee clock is somewhat reminiscent of winding a weight driven clock. The winding tension doesn't really change going from unwound to fully wound. And of course that translates into a very consistent rate over the course of the run time. I'd like to see more of these in my work.

Thanks for your kind feedback. I'm glad you found the video of use. Probably too late now but I would recommend a gut line between 1.4 and 1.5mm diameter. M

@@halnwheels Interesting observation re the winding force. A good sign that the mainspring is matched to the fusee. Good luck with future repairs and thanks again for your feedback! M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thanks for both your replies. The line I used is more like 1.2mm. I'll remember for next time. The stopwork action is secure.

@@halnwheels Magic. Sounds good. M

Thanks Keith for your kind feedback. never say never! M

Thanks for your kind feedback. Appreciated. M

Glad it was of use. Thanks for your kind feedback.

Thanks for your input.

Thanks for your kind feedback! M

Thanks Eddie for your feedback.

if you send me a couple of images via email happy to have a look. Matthew

Hi Bradford. A good question. Without doubt if you are doing a lot of soldering and want one solution to last a lifetime I would go for the Sievert professional system with a seperate propane tank and two or three different sized burner heads. toolshouse.co.uk/products/sievert-pro-86-torch-kit-with-regulator-and-2m-hose?variant=41393479581894&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC1c8H9z7T35qfINfhjQ3leb7RZYM&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvIXCqOjiiAMVjZRQBh3o8itHEAQYBSABEgJL__D_BwE. If you are just doing the occasional bit of soldering, get one of the ones with the burner fixed directly to the top of the canister; the DIY type. In addition to either one of these you will need a spirit burner for small soft-soldering and blueing jobs. IMO the creme brûlée type are dangerous and annoying and should be avoided. Hope this helps! Thanks for your continued support. M

@@ArtBites Thank you for your kind feedback. Here is a video I made in lockdown on that subject. Its a bit informal but hopefully has the info you need. M m.th-cam.com/video/6pjGC-k0v7I/w-d-xo.html

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks thank you so much! That is exactly what I've been looking for!

@@rooftoppete thank you for kind feedback, glad it was of use. Appreciated.

@@cmj2b It is called the winding ratchet or winding work comprising ratchet click, ratchet wheel and ratchet click spring. Hope this helps. M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks awesome. Just what I was looking for thanks🫶🏾

100% natural gut line. Metal wire rope is not suitable due to the relatively small radius as the narrow end of the fusee. Video here... th-cam.com/video/SPVnAbIUal0/w-d-xo.html

@@clc7800 Thank you. Appreciated. M

@@yvesrochet3288 Thank you!

When editing the video I wondered whether anyone would pick up on that! Well spotted. You are right; not best practice for sure. When I next make a lathe based vid I will mention it. Thanks again for your feedback. Matthew

@@edwardmanukyan454 Thank you!

Thank you!!!

Thanks Mark for your kind feedback. Hope you are doing well. M

@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.

@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.

@@lohikarhu734 thank you, appreciated. M

That's a good point, there was a little bit of vagueness to the indexing for sure. The improvement you suggest would be useful if you were cutting something like an escape wheel that needed a bit more stability. M

Thank you for your feedback! Yes, always a frustration when limits of available tools etc limit your work. M

Hi Ian. It is a washing machine motor I think? My landlord is a heating engineer and he threw it together for me. I will send you some snaps of it in situ! Yes the arbor/mandril is held in place by a draw-bar. In the shot of the dividing plate you can see the handle I made to tighten the draw-bar. I set the depth of cut by slowly moving the cutter down, locking it between cuts and waiting for the blue land to almost disappear. Ideally you stop just before the line goes altogether but somewhere in that region. With Thornton cutters it is in theory possible to lower the cutter so it just touches the wheel blank then lower it by the specified amount. If it were on a 102 I could do that but on the Myford vertical slide it is just easier to do it slowly over a dozen successive cuts. Hope this helps and hope you are well. M

Thanks Dell. Hope you are well. M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks yes keeping well , enjoying retirement all well your end.

Thank you for your kind feedback! Appreciated.

Thanks Franklin! M

Hi Tim. This supplier is excellent... www.brasscastings.co.uk/12-58-diam-soft-yellow-brass-rod-suitable-for-clock-restoration

Good point, I put it in the description now M

Thanks gents !

Hi Darryl Thanks for your kind feedback. When you begin hammering the brass the hammer kind of sinks in like hitting a piece of plasticine. After a while the hammer bounces and the tone changes. Bit of experience I suppose. On the edge of the material you can also see it gets compressed. Obvs if you hammer it too much it cracks and you have to start again. CZ120 also responds to further work hardening... just get a piece of scrap brass cz120 and experiment. Cast brass is really unpredictable. M

You are welcome! M

Thanks Graham, appreciated.,,..M

Thank you! Really appreciated. Makes all the difference!

Yes it would. You would have to make a jewel but using diamond that is not maybe as difficult as it seems. In a clock a jewel I agree would look nice but really offers you no advantage over dead-hard polished steel. Would be a nice exercise to make one though!

​@@howtorepairpendulumclocksThanks, I might just try that. I have a friend who is a jeweler who may be able to help.

Thanks David for your support. Really appreciated. Makes all the difference.

Thank you,,, appreciated. M

Thanks as always Ian for your kind feedback. M

Thanks Franklin. Hope you are well. M