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That's a good thought! I'm not sure if the crank bolt would be long enough, but could definitely use another bolt or make something to do so. Thanks for the comment! Greg

I did not do any specific tuning right after install, although it is recommended. My plan is to do a stage 2 Doman8 tune as soon as I can get the injectors upgraded and the exhaust enlarged. However, it has run great since without any tuning, even has more power I believe. Thanks, Greg

I'm not sure what you are referring to. Do you mean the output shaft on the other side of the differential? The process is the same for both sides. Let me know if you have another question. Thanks, Greg

Ahh yeah, that's too bad. Yeah, people don't realize how important certain steps in the service process are. Definitely come back to this channel if you have future service procedures to do. Also, feel free to leave comment if there is something you need to tackle that we have not made a video on yet. I may still be able to give you some helpful information. Thanks, Greg

I'm not too sure what positive characteristics the M10 had. All I know is it ran for quite a number of years through production from 1962 to 1988. Mine is the M42, which was good to find out as the M40 had a timing belt which required more regular service. The M10 and the M42 both had timing chains which made them more durable. Thanks, Greg

@ That’s neat. I’m trying to find a website where I can find 318i rebuild kits but having trouble.

These were purchased privately from an ad on Facebook Marketplace. Thanks, Greg

Yeah, that would look good. As long as there is enough freedom of movement from the cable to allow the shifter to move into position. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Thanks for the information! Hopefully it lasts a bit longer for us. Currently Greg wants to keep this engine and install a turbocharger (can't remember if we talked about it in this or the other videos we have done so far). But if it doesn't last, we may go searching for a 325i (not e) engine instead, though they are getting very hard to find, especially in Canada. - Mitchell

@@GBProductions0 your engine sounded ok timingchain wise. only thing little concerned that buildup inside waterjacket i would flush it properly engine running garden hose to heaterhose. theres seal from waterpump to cylinder head and thats weak point, not running years doesnt help. if there is additional waterpump to heater core wire it so you can over ride that if overheating happen, you can turn engine off and keep water circulating. i have cracked head on my M42. id take M42 any time over M20 engine. keep new videos rolling

The process is exactly the same for the right side as the left side, no reason to show both sides. Thanks.

Thanks for the comment! I just did a brake servicing a few weeks ago and the rear rotors are starting to show some pitting and the pad contact surface is not full anymore. As to be expected from such cheap brake parts I guess, as well as just being the rear of the car. The rear brakes don't get worked as much so they tend to rot sooner. They are still more than fine and I will run them at least another year. The fronts are still in excellent condition, no pitting or rust and the pad contact surface is full and perfect condition. Thanks, Greg

@@GBProductions0 Thanks for the reply! I'll give their site a go soon. Awesome tips with everything involved, very comprehensive. Love to hear it's doing well!

If you don't like it, don't watch it. Thanks, Greg

Hmm, does the collar sleeve that joins the axle shafts move freely when the fork is not installed? Does the cable move freely inside the casing when the cable is not connected to the fork or axle? Sounds to me like it is maybe just an issue of a sliding surface being dry and needing some lubrication. It could also perhaps be the routing of the cable from the axle to the cab. Make sure there are no really sharp bends in the cable casing, this could cause binding on the inside. Thanks, Greg

@GBProductions0 it's got a couple loops. It doesn't move freely when disconnected from the front axle. I pull it almost straight routed and it seems the back spine of it drags on the cad

That's odd. I didn't think there was a particular way that it had to be installed so that it would clear the housing. I'm not too sure without seeing it. But maybe take the cable out of the housing again and just double check everything looks okay visually and then try reinstalling it again and see if you can get the cable and fork to move freely in the CAD housing. It is possible that it could be a manufacturing defect as well in the CAD housing itself. Let me know how you make out. Thanks, Greg

Hello, No, I do not believe so. If it was one of the PTFE seals, you are not supposed to put anything on it and not allow your skin to touch the sealing surface. If it was a regular type oil seal I may have put just a light film of oil on the sealing lip to help with installation. The outside surface must be dry and clean to hold still once it is installed. Thanks, Greg

Yes, looks like I put a light film of transmission oil on the sealing surface on the axle flange before installing.

@@GBProductions0 Ah yes got ya...so just a tiny bit on the inside lip of the seal in effect. I'll do the same, and keep the outer lip dry / grease free. Very helpful video, thank you!

You got it! Happy to help. Thanks!

Thanks for the comment! Glad it will be helpful to you! Nice, those will be some good maintenance and upgrade items. Right on! Yes, they are probably the best diesel engine ever made besides the 12 valve Cummins. I have a couple of ALH Jettas with over 530k km on them with original everything, clutch, turbo, injection pump, injectors. Still run and drive great! Thanks! Greg

Hello, I would say as long as the lip on the seal looks like it's in the same position all the way around the crankshaft it should be okay and not leak. But if you feel more comfortable removing it and using the guide to reinstall I think that would work fine too. Just inspect the inner sealing surface to ensure it does not have any damage and reinstall. It's not like the camshaft seal where if you don't get it past the keyway safely it will damage the seal. It's a nice smooth surface so should be good. Thanks, Greg

@@GBProductions0 Hey! Thanks for the answer. Today i got the gearbox mounted but im having problems with the clutch slave cylinder. The rod is extended all the way and no matter how hard i push it against the fork it doesnt move. What should i do?

Hmm, that's weird. Normally you can push back against the hydraulic fluid to allow you just enough space to start the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Then after that just thread the two bolts in evenly to pull the cylinder in. If you cannot push the slave cylinder rod in then it may just be stuck or perhaps there is an issue with the hydraulic system for the clutch. I cannot say I have ever come across that issue before. One thought would be find some longer bolts that are the correct thread (I believe they would be M8x1.25, but double check) and use those to pull the cylinder in part way, just to see if it was just stuck. You will have to be careful though because if something is stuck or bound, applying force using bolts could cause something to rupture, or just break the plastic slave cylinder. Let us know what you figure out. Thanks, Greg

Yes, that would work too.

Nice! Hope you enjoy! Lots of new content coming up starting in August!

No problem!

Hi there, The car in this video now has 380k kms on it. I also have several other mk4 TDIs with over 500k kms on them. No, I have not really done much with suspension on this car surprisingly enough. All I did was put used cargo coils in the back to carry more weight. I will likely have to do shocks and springs all the way around in the next few years. Yeah, right on! Well, there is lots of information on those cars on our channel, and anything else I do on this car in the future will likely be posted on here as well. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Yeah right on. It works well once you get the hang of it and get rolling. Yes, definitely better to do fluid movements and not stop during a rotation, but yeah because we were doing it in the tractor with the rad still in place there wasn't much room to play with. Thanks for the comment, Greg

Hmm.. sounds like you may have to use a sprocket puller then if you cannot remove the bearing cap. Will the plastic cover flex or bend enough to fit the cap out? I would recommend you try a sprocket puller, or any two or three jaw puller (always pull on the centre hub of the sprocket though, never the outside), and just go slow and careful. It should not take much to pop it loose. Best of luck! Thanks, Greg

@@GBProductions0 It looks different than on your engine and a jaw puller is impossible. I tried welding it on. I then drilled and tapped M8's right next to the shaft and use a puller for harmonic dampener to put the sprocket under tension and *then* giving it a whack as instructed. It worked... but now I need to install a new sprocket, new shaft seal, and to reseal the cap that I loosened.

Hmm, I guess Volkswagen must have a special tool for removing that sprocket, as they do with most things. Looking at a picture of your sprocket online quickly, it looks like it would definitely be a low profile 2 or 3 jaw puller hooked in the weight reduction/balance holes in the web of the sprocket. Tension it up then whack it with a hammer. You may be able to find one that would fit, or could also make something that would work for you for next time.

@@GBProductions0 The right tool is a 6 mm punch that you insert from behind through a hole in the cover. Using a puller through the holes would be difficult and there is no special VW puller made for this purpose, at least it is not listed as a T4 special tool at T4wiki. It worked great drilling and tapping the sprocket. Should have done that earlier as I have a spare engine.

That's a good thought! I would have to find or make a fairly long one to have enough leverage, but yeah that would probably work quite nicely. Thanks for the idea! Greg

Happy to help! Thanks.

Hmm, maybe check the adjustment on the cable and make sure the travel is enough to fully engage the collar. If the truck is in the air and there's no load on it, the driver's side axle may very well spin anyway. Was the CAD functioning properly prior to the swap to cable control? I have heard of the teeth inside the sleeve shearing off as well in extreme cases. Might be worth a look into that. Let us know how you make out. Greg

@@GBProductions0 thanks for the reply! Turns out I needed to ad more gear oil.

Well hey, they're pretty decent quality tools for fairly low prices! Haha Great starter tools for anyone who doesn't have a lot of money to spend on tools and equipment like Snap-On or others. Thanks for the comment! Greg

@@GBProductions0 I do have to agree they are probably the best bang for your buck.

Good to know! Thanks for the information! Greg

It can be found on the channel page in the playlist named after the car. All of the work done on all of our cars are filed under playlists. TH-cam likely won't recommend it to you naturally due to the way their algorithm works. - Mitchell

Thanks for the comment! I didn't include anything on that because it doesn't actually matter. I have my switch connected to my router via port 1, with my other devices on ports 2-5. These switches are more akin to a glorified Ethernet splitter than a normal enterprise grade managed switch (at least in the way I'm using it). Some other models have PoE (Power over Ethernet) which in that case you have to use certain ports (usually 1 and 5) but this model doesn't have that. - Mitchell

That is correct. There is no change in functionality from the factory setup, other than the fact that it will actually work as intended from the factory as there is no delay or failure possibility due to the vacuum actuator that was replaced by the cable. It does lock the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft together, but that's it. Thanks.

@@GBProductions0 Thank you sir. Much appreciated!

Hi there, I'll have to give that a try on my next one! Thanks for the info! Greg

Hi there, Thanks for the comment! Yes, I would normally put the nut on flush with the end of the threads to protect them and give a larger puller surface area. Not sure why I didn't do that in this video, I usually do. But yes, great advice for someone trying this out on their own. Thanks, Greg

Thanks for the additional information!

Thank you very much!

The Bentley Factory Service Manual for the Mk.IV Jetta and Golf was used for this job. It was probably mentioned in some of the earlier videos. Greg may have went a little off script from what the manual says in certain parts due to side jobs he wanted to do at the same time, but this manual is pretty much perfect. Here's an amazon link to the manual but Barnes & Noble etc. likely would have it as well: www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-Service-Manual/dp/0837616786/ - Mitchell

Hi there, These running boards had pretty much every type of bit and size from 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 8mm, 10mm, Phillips #2, Robertson #2 and #3. Pretty much you name it, we had it. Hope that helps. Thanks, Greg

Thank you their such a bitch to get off

Thank you! My truck had no vacuum to the climate control when I got it, so there was no effect from having the vacuum lines to the axle disconnected. The brake booster vacuum was a separate line. So I ended up taking the single feed line that went to the transfer case and connecting that to my climate control so it would function properly. But in your case, I would just plug the single feed line that goes to the transfer case, and you could even remove the extra hoses from the transfer case to the axle as they aren't needed anymore. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment! Greg

Hi there, Yes, I found that it's a pain to get out of 4x4 sometimes as well. I found for mine the best way to do it was to always engage the axle first, and then switch the transfer case. Then when coming out of 4x4 always switch the transfer case first, then disengage the axle. I had the best luck with this method. And it did work better most times to be rolling just very slowly while engaging the axle. Sometimes I would still have trouble with the axle lock cable, and usually moving the truck forward or backwards combined with a bit of steering each direction would realign the front shafts so the collar sleeve could move freely. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Thanks for the great reply , glad to know I’m not alone. I will certainly try your method , I had to drive all the way to work in 4x4 the other day lol. Still beats the vacuum though 😂

Right on! Yeah I've been stuck in 4x4 and had to drive a bit once or twice. But yes, certainly better than the vacuum diaphragm! Only thing I would like better is manual locking hubs like I had on my '70 PowerWagon. Thanks!

Got one of these on the way, and I'll say ahead of time at least it's easy to carry a little socket wrench with the right socket in your passenger door and a quart bottle of gear oil always anyways in the instance that it doesn't disengage after you're done using it and you're back on the dry road, and you can pop the CAD cover off and slide it off by hand. Easy job and these gaskets I believe are "reusable" based on the material used and online. I guess depends on how often you actually need to use it vs how much work you wanna do

@@EvanTownsend yes I carry multiple tools in the truck for various things, damper bolts have backed out on me before , power steering etc. I always have tools for the posi lock too , but I always end up getting it to disengage eventually and haven’t had to wrench on it. I’m doing floor pans next week and may re-route my cable to see if it gives any less fuss coming out of 4wd

Thank you! This car had about 330,000km on it when I did this work. It is now at almost 370,000km. Thanks! Greg

Thank you very much! Greg

Hi there, These racks are not Thule, they are Volkswagen OEM. Thanks! Greg

Thanks 🤘

Hi there, That's bad luck! Always something with a project you buy. As far as I am concerned, as long as the inner machined surface of the flange is sitting within the lip of the oil seal, you should be fine. I don't recall specifically how far out the flanges on mine sat when installed, but as long as the sealing surface mentioned above is at least 1/4" into the oil seal, it should be fine and not leak on you. Thanks for the comment! Greg

Hello, I believe it is shown in the videos, but I have a custom made plate with mounting holes that fasten to the crankshaft timing sprocket and then rotates against the subframe/control arm to allow for torqueing of the crankshaft bolt. There is also a VW SST (Special Service Tool) that is listed in the service manual and is likely available through various sources online. Thanks for the comment! Greg

I believe the crossover tube was purchased from Rock Auto - Mitchell

@@GBProductions0 finally found one local on a junk motor