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Thank you so very, very much! They did the opposite with me - installed a “dc” switch on my “ac” series 33 seaflo pump. You totally enabled me to diagnose this issue easily. I have sent the company a picture and am waiting to hear back.

A lot of these type of micro switches are actually rated for DC as well if you look in their datasheets. DC at lower currents and voltages than AC though usually. Look up your switch and see what it's rated for DC. May still be too low current for this application, or may be a bad batch of microswitches? Would be interested to know if the AC versions of this pump have the same issue?

Wow thanks so much for the information I am currently having same problem but how did you fix it?

Yes that happened to me with a pump only two months old. I changed the micro switch and it's running fine, but I wasn't aware of the ac/dc issue. Thank you.

I use the pump switch to turn a relay on to carry the heavy current to the motor

Great idea Thanks for sharing

Thank you so much, I too have been fighting with the same pump and problem. I traced it to the switch but never took it completely apart the way you did , it all makes sense now. Awesome info, Thanks again

Hey Jonathon, how is the D well pump going now, is it still doing the job?

Is there a DC switch for this application?

Jonathan, thanks for this video. Exactly what I needed to diagnose and get going again. And an added bonus: I learned a useful new word, “janky”. Ha!

I don't need a pressure switch. When I need the pump I can just plug it in to my 7 way. Do I have to mess with pressure or diaphragm to wire it direct?

Hi Jonathan. Similar problem ( I think) Thank you for this...... = where did you get your replacement switch from.... I can't seem to find one?

I did some checking on ac/dc switch compatibility. Current wisdom states that an a/c switch of say, 250v @ 30amps, should handle a tenth of the voltage in d/c, thus 25v @ 30amps. Gotta be a REALLY shitty switch there to not handle that, or there's another cause for the burnout.

How do I fix that?

Would a snubber circuit along side the switch help?

Thanks Johnathan that's a great help .I no option other than to buy another switch that will fail in the future from seaflo ,will end up buying another pump non seaflo in the future

What model of the seaflo do you have? I just got the 52 series. I wonder if they still use the ac switch on the dc pump.

I'm sorry... I didn't catch what the symptoms are for your failing switch. My pump behaves as if there is a leak or torn diaphragm, second pump in a year doing the same thing... first one acted up after 9 months, second one after only 3 months. I don't want to rip the pump apart without a solid idea.

You, sir, are a liar! I ordered and received a new pump for install tomorrow. I wanted to watch a You Tube video on install and found your video. I started to box up the pump and send it back, but decided to disassemble it. My SeaFlo, series 42 switch is "12 amp, 12VDC T 105", as it should be. If you have an AC switch, Shame on you or your eBay knock off. Stop bad mouthing SeaFlo. They make an excellent, SAFE, pump.

I tried 3 switch’s from amazon This is a great solution

Whatever dc or account, the switch has to do with current I think

OMG! Thank you! I am having this same exact issue! 💯

All fine but can't find anyone that can sell me a switch.

I've had a look for 10 or 16a dc micro switches and it doesn't look like they exist. I'm guessing the housing is not big enough to accommodate a large enough contact surface or spark arrest chamber. Or there is so little demand that it's not worth mass production. Post a link if anyone finds a suitable dc replacement.

Seaflo do make unreliable pressure switch! D-square will eventually burn out because of DC Surge current, it would be worth while if you install SPDT Relay compatible with DC to avoid this problem.

I have the A/C version, I can't get a response from SeaFlo about whether the AC and DC version of the pump uses the same pressure switch part. You just answered my question :). I've had two pumps fail over the last several years. I've looked at alternative brands but Seaflo seems to be the best despite the short life. I do use my pump every day to supply my household water (don't have a municipal water connection where I live).

I have the A/C version, I can't get a response from SeaFlo about whether the AC and DC version of the pump uses the same pressure switch part. You just answered my question :). I've had two pumps fail over the last several years. I've looked at alternative brands but Seaflo seems to be the best despite the short life. I do use my pump every day to supply my household water (don't have a municipal water connection where I live).

mine just started leaking around the seal for the switch. these are straight up garbage.

Hey! Thank you for the video!! Do you know will that works if I replace this micro switch to this one from Amazon? Funmit WB24X829 Microwave Door Switch for GE Kenmore SZM-V16-FD-63

Hi Jonathan. I have same problem in seaflo pressure switch and I came to video which a good idea to bypass. May I know what type of pressure switch you replace? is it same 12V supply?

Great explanation for a very frustrating problem, indeed! Grateful you took the time to share this solution. Thank you, sir!

th-cam.com/video/nmr3y8egCp0/w-d-xo.html

I have the problem in my off grid system, Finland summer cottage. Very frustrating.

My solution to this problem was to bypass the switch altogether and replace it with an inline "Square D" well pump switch. It's working great now with no issues.

I’ve got the same problem. Did you manage to find a suitable replacement for the microswitch? I’ve found plenty of similar looking ones but not sure what I need in order to prevent it happening again.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I've been dealing with a similar problem, same pump. At least now I know what to check.

Same problem here. They sent me a new pump and i got the same problem again. But many customers seem to be happy on amazon. Could it be that only some pumps have the wrong switch?

Thank you, I keep getting the same problem.

U 2 slo 4 me

Screams like mad but it wont go fast

my build has been running great. still doing good.

In my honest opinion, yes. the stroker crank is designed to withstand the extra weight of the piston. A 50mm piston will ruin the stock crank. Plus it increases displacement.

I'm about to build a139qmb 50mm airsail piston bbk. is the striker crank worth it?