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Mini's can be a challenge! Glad the video helped, good luck on your new water pipe.

Glad it helped! I agree, one would think to keep it simple in the mechanical realm. However in the engineering world its another story, this is especially true on German vehicles! Thanks for the comment

Yes I did figure out what was wrong with it. My truck ended up needing a fuel tank (I resorted it using gravel, electrolysis and POR-15 fuel tank coating), fuel pump, and fuel filter. I bought the truck and it had been sitting for a long time. Ran fine when I started it but after I got gas it started clogging up. The tanks on these trucks are metal so the inside will rust after too long (these trucks are over 30yrs old). Pump was on it last legs and the pickup was clogged with rust which didn't help. If you ever change your pump go ahead and change the filter too, mine was on the passenger side of the engine. Fuel filters should be changed as periodic maintenance anyway and you could remove it just to check for rust or check fuel pressure with a gauge. Harbor freight has a decent fuel pressure gauge. Check codes just to see if you have any known faults as well. Also these trucks have issues with the fuel injectors. Honestly it comes down to checking things out to figure out what the problem or the problems are. Good luck!

My truck believer it or not has not even one tad of rust anywhere on or inside of it the motor has low miles but i had just put in a new clutch and one day after a month of driving it on the highway all of a sudden there was a big bang (at first thought was my carrier bearing but wasnt) and my truck lost all power so i just coasted it into the ditch and she hasnt worked since. She gets power now but i cant get the thing to start. My starter grounds out but i cant get a hammer in there where i have enough room to hit it

​@@taylorridgeway2371 Good info, doesn't sound like you had the same issue as me. So if you're going after the starter I'm assuming its not cranking over? The hammer method is one way to test it but I'd recommend you check for power at the starter first, constant 12v to starter motor (big wire) and switched with key 12v to solenoid (small wire). If you have power on both and still suspect the starter, disconnect the battery and remove the starter. This will give you the opportunity to check to see if the bendix drive gear on the end of the starter is still attached (it's rare but if it fell off it could get lodged in your flywheel causing a loud noise and shut the truck down). Also you can test the starter yourself with a battery charger (youtube it) or have a local auto parts store test it for you. Good luck

Glad it could help! I drove myself nuts when this happened to me on a customers car. Good luck out there!

No worries at all, glad to know I could help!

The LED's are located on the front of the ecu (front being toward the front of the vehicle). There is a small inspection window on the ecu and you should see 2 LED's, one green and one red. *Keep in mind that your carpet may be of this inspection window. I had removed the carpet in this truck so it's probably a lot easier to see than in a truck that has carpet. Check under the passenger side of the seat for the ECU and you should find it, there may be a small portion of carpet that needs to be moved.

Nice deal! The no start after stalling could be a number of problems honestly, however the fuel system is a great place to check for problems. You should have throttle body injection unless someone has converted your truck to a conventional carburetor. If your truck is stock and hasn't been converted, you'll see what appears to be a carb (throttle body) on top the engine but there should be 2 fuel injectors at the top center spraying fuel down into the engine. I've heard these injectors can be a problem and you may want to inspect them to see if they are spraying fuel correctly (use caution working around fuel). It should look like a spray/mist - not a stream. Both injectors should be spraying when the truck is running or starting is attempted. You may need a helper to turn the key while you try to start it.

Not sure exactly what you have going on but if the truck wont start check the positive battery terminal, it might be (depending on year) a rectangular type battery terminal with I think a fuse-able link, if you have this check the fuse. Just guessing off of the many circuit malfunctions your ecu is sending codes for. Other than that I would check a service/repair manual (might be able to find a pdf online) and check the wiring diagrams out.

I have all the same codes +32 Did you find a solution?

It was the mass airflow sensor. I got the one from Amazon, if you can still find it. Good luck.

I initially bought one from eBay that didn’t work.

@@danny1064 the 1986 doesn’t have a mass air flow sensor

No, I sold it about 5 years ago.

@@willnicholas7918 do you know a lot about those trucks? I’m needing advice I have one that just refuses to run right, it’ll fire up shoot straight up to 3200rpm then will go down to about 200-300 rpm and does that over and over

@@andrewc5014 I am not a expert on these trucks to be honest. It really could be a number of things. However it sounds like it could be an idle air control valve/fast idle valve issue. With colder weather around this time of year parts like that can get stuck intermittently at a cold start. You may want check for codes like I show in this video, I would also check your vacuum lines. Again, I am no expert on these trucks.

@@willnicholas7918 Okay thank you! I had went through and capped off all my vacuum lines but I won’t rule out that I didn’t miss one. I have changed throttle body’s several times and it’s did the same with them all so it’s all beyond me!

@@andrewc5014 No problem. Ok I see. I would also say check the throttle linkage but you probably already have seeing as you've replaced the throttle body. Vacuum lines are cheap to replace, sometimes they won't be split in half but the ends will crack and still draw in un-metered air. You may want to replace them and connect them back to their respective locations. I do remember I needed an idle stop solenoid for my truck before I sold it (I never replaced it though). I remember it idling erratically but I cant remember if I had the same symptom that your experiencing. I know idle issues on older vehicles can be a challenge. A Chilton or Haynes manual may help you diagnose the problem more effectively. These trucks are known to have many issues leading to poor idle/drive-ability. Sensor problems are expected as they are all older now, the fuel pump on mine was the culprit on why it wouldn't start. You'll also want to change your fuel filter to prevent problems with your injectors as the injectors can be a problem in some cases.

No problem, hope it helps. Just wanted to share my experience, good luck with your repairs!

I wouldn't have made the video if the connectors weren't interchangeable and as you can read in the comments, others have experienced the same problem. Perhaps you have a different model year and some connectors have been updated? Manufacturers do change things (sometimes even on the same model year). If you have the P0118 maybe you should check your coolant temp sensor? Hope you get the problem resolved!

It's worth a shot resetting the ECU. The 1st thing I'd do is check to see if the alternator is any good. You can remove it yourself and have your local auto parts store test it for free. Check your fuse boxes for bad fuses as well using a test light. If you don't find any problems with alternator or fuses then you'll likely want to get a hold of a wiring diagram in a service manual and trace the circuit(s) that feed power and ground to those electrical devices that aren't working. Good luck and God bless.

Jose Melara pointless comment, but thanks anyway

I too have a pointless comment to make

Hey, sorry it took me a couple days to get back with you. The LED's are located on the front of the ecu (front being toward the front of the vehicle). There is a small inspection window on the ecu and you should see 2 LED's, one green and one red. Keep in mind that your carpet may be of this inspection window. I had removed the carpet in this truck so it's probably a lot easier to see than in a truck that has carpet. Check under the passenger side of the seat for the ECU and you should find it, there may be a small portion of carpet that needs to be moved.

What he said is true don't rely entirely on the codes these trucks are some of the best reliable vehicles ever build but they are tricky when it comes to bad idle and similar issues the tbi will drive you crazy if you're not familiar with it I hope you fixed your d21 by now but i can help you if need it btw I Turn heads with my 18 inch titans they look bitchin on my Nissan

@Five hundred 20s ok that happened to me once so ended up being a bad fuel injector but also a worn timing chain could do that disconnect one injector from the harness and turn on the truck it will start btw some z24 came with only 1 injector and a 4speed manual tranny if u have that IDK so start by checking that good luck

@Five hundred 20s I have the same problem with my 86 v6, it goes into limp mode @35mph

These trucks definitely have character, they don't make them like this anymore!

Will Nicholas Do you still have this truck if so can you make a video about the door chime sound please

I actually just sold this truck a couple months ago so unfortunately I cannot make a door chime video for you. Definitely a creative video idea though! I ended up getting 2 trucks to replace this one, a 1990 Toyota 4x4 and a 2008 GMC 2500HD 4x4. I might end up putting some videos out on these trucks in the future.

Will Nicholas Ok thanks though

will Nicholas so what was the problem because i am having the same truck

Hey there, yes I did finally get that Nissan Pickup running. The problem with the Nissan was that the truck had sat for about 5 years and the fuel tank had started to rust on the inside. After I filled it up with gas the rust clogged up the fuel pump only allowing some of the fuel to get to the engine (not enough to keep it running). After restoring my fuel tank, replacing the fuel pump, and changing my fuel filter the truck ran great. I will try enable comments on that video now.

I have enabled comments on the Nissan video, thank you for the info on that and the response!

Always best to ohm the sensor when in doubt. Thank you for sharing the good and bad readings you got. Glad the video helped out!

Jacobo Gaitan glad the video helped out. Can’t say I blame you for thinking to color match the connectors. Glad you got it strait!

art glad it could help!

Thats awesome man! Your story is the whole reason I made the video, to help people out with something that's easy to mix up. Yes I had the exact same symptoms, running rough, P0118, and cooling fan continuously running. Thank you for commenting, glad you got your car fixed!

Glad I could help, don't make the same connector mismatch mistake I did lol!

Even if I do, it will be an easy fix, thanks to your video. I have made marks on the mating ends of connectors and taken lots of photos, so hopefully that should help. Was a pain, but the housing is out now. It would've been lot less difficult if Mini were to put the electrical connectors with the clips facing up ;)

Your not kidding, that connector on the back of the housing is a pain to remove. Always helps to take pictures before so you can see how everything goes back together. If you've got it removed you can definitely install the new one, best of luck to you!

I’ve been trying to find a diagram or something about where the connections from the wiring harness goes. Do you know where to find that?