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Great points! That’s why I kept both 😀

@Cut.Weld.Repeat I have both Milwaukee and DeWalt tools. I just pick which brand has the better tool for the individual jobs. You can rock two platforms at once fellas. It's ok to do that lol.

Completely agree with you, I have both and like them for different reasons. I do think the screw guns are better on the Milwaukee side vs Dewalt. But I like the 60V line of products sawzall, circular saw etc.

I think it’s similar to QuickJack. I replaced the wheels (see my videos) and called customer service for an issue. Not helpful, located over seas and took a week to rectify the issue. It still works great though and I’m happy with the purchase

Thanks, I’ll definitely keep that in mind, checkout my other videos for some helpful info.

Haha 😵 from that comment. It’s quite frustrating. I do find the saw because of its smaller size useful for some smaller jobs but I agree I don’t use it often.

Nope that’s annoying. I don’t do that with my STIHL saws

I actually just ran into this issue! Was going to make a video about it soon. What I’ve read is that you need to add extra weight onto the jacks and it will let the jacks down. Will try that today (few hundred pounds)

@@Cut.Weld.Repeatplease let me know if you resolve this problem

They said to open the pressure relief valve (small gold piece on top of solenoid) and add more weight to my truck bed to help it lower. I asked for additional support though, cause this is ridiculous

@ hey man, I’m glad to reply. I didn’t do anything. Just tell my son and wife and I put about 100 pounds dumbbell on it and I was able to lower it so it’s almost like I would say 400 pounds and I did it one at a time. I I unplugged one of the jack

@ appreciate your tip! Thanks

They’re checked with a torque wrench after the the tool is maxed out at that point so I’m not concerned

Totally worth it. No regrets! Makes it sooo much easier

The Milwaukee definitely has a hefty price tag. I do like the Dewalt 60V line. Ultimately may need the 18volt power for heavy drilling / metal / drilling with hole saw kit for doors etc

Appreciate the input! I have a metal fab project coming up soon I’m really going to test out the M12 drill. Lots of holes to drill in different thickness of metal. Will be a good comparison to the 18/20V stuff I normally run

Cool what did you find in your comparison?

I really like it!

Amazon sells them, including different colors and configurations

Great fix, thanks for sharing this!

Great write up, Thank you so much for sharing this!!

Sorry I don’t recall, over a year ago already. Get under and look at it, I remember playing with it, loosening the trailer arm front and rear, maybe a sway bar end link or something. Was able to use a small jack to manipulate it and the 4x4 as well. Good luck with it, sorry I don’t have the exact answer.

@ No problem. I ended up removing the entire arm. Made removing the bushing WAY easier because I could clamp it in a vice. Loosening the part alone was helpful, but still a tight area to work in. Sadly, I did still knick the bushing housing just slightly with the sawzall blade, but it was minor. Little sanding and good to go.

It’s been over a year and holding up well. Ride is smooth as factory OEM

😂

Solid steel I already tried it and the bigger one definitely works as good as a hammer lol

Wow! That’s interesting! Thanks for sharing

My saw I purchased a few weeks ago from Home Depot in Canada leaks and I'm going to return it (still in the 30 day window). Could you please how to identify the newer Rev 3 model?

@@slanger686 should be on the model number sticker. Mine is no longer plastic to plastic and they put a seal around the main part that was detailed in this video. I put gasket sealant around the seam since I already had it opened anyway.

This fix might be detailed on their site in the exploded view, but I haven't checked.

I just purchased a DCCS620 and it is a Type 3. I called Dewalt and asked about any changes recently made due to the oil leak issue and the DeWALT representative was not aware of any fixes put in place. I then decided to open up my chainsaw and see for myself. I saw NO fixes made. I am a senior design engineer and did my own assessment of this oil leak situation. Essentially there are two areas that are prone to leak. First and main is the inner cap component that fits into the oil tank where it is a hard plastic to plastic interface. Ideally there should be a FLAT rubber washer in this interface. A o-ring may accidentally be pressed into tank upon compression. However you may need to notch the flat washer near the bosses since there isn't adequate room for a flat washer to lay flat, possibly. Thus Ultra Black should work well. Remember to let Ultra Black set up FIRST before pressing inner cap component and screwing down tight. The other area is the small o-ring on the plastic nipple from oil pickup tube. This o-ring is way too thin. It fits loosely into case and oil will have no problem squeezing past the o-ring. I used a 5mm inner diameter, 9mm outer diameter, 2mm thick o-ring from Ace Hardware - $0.45. A 4mm inner, 8mm outer diameter, 2mm thick should work too. I chose the larger since it fit. Finger lube the o-ring with a drop of oil so nipple with o-ring easily slides into plastic housing. I applied Ultra Black to under lip of rubber stopper and vent plug since it was easy to do, but I doubt there is any leaking from those two areas since it is rubber to plastic. I have contacted DeWALT and will try to get them to apply these fixes. I have the name of the factory service manager and have emailed him. We'll see if DeWALT chooses to take any action regarding these two obvious assembly and design issues.

Glad it’s helpful! Good luck with it and thanks for the note! 😄✌️

Per the Vevor website, plates are 11”L and the lift system is 63”L. Basically an extended cab truck is the regular length. If you had a quad cab / 4 door this would fit perfect. Anything super long I would add the extension plate. I personally don’t think I’ll ever use the extension plates but ya never know. Good to have just in case

@ Thanks for the quick reply! Their website has 2 different pictures: one marks the lift 74” while the other one marks the lift+extension plate 74”. And they mentioned in a question that the max lift point spread would be ~76”. So I’m confused now 😅. The center of my lift points are 76” apart and the lift pads are 3” long. That’s the only question I have before I pull the trigger

It’s great, really like it. I added another video with a 3 month follow up. Glad I have this in my garage. Super helpful

I’m unsure but you should be able to find that info either with QuickJack or Vevor website.

Water won’t remove oil. I cleaned with a rag first. Then did some isopropyl alcohol on a rag to finish it up. Mineral spirits or similar may also be effective but just use a little

Glad it was helpful!

Bought a whole kit. Coilover fronts and shocks for the rear. DV8 DESIGNS in Florida hooked me up with the best kit for the drop I was looking for. Highly recommend calling them.

Your truck looks really nice. Does that place do shipping?

Yes of course

Can u send the part numbers you used

@@zueszues3178 call DV8 Designs in Florida. I’m unsure of the part numbers it’s been too long

Search my videos I have a whole tutorial on it

Thanks for the heads up! Will have to check it out

Thanks! Agree it’s best bang for the buck and I also like it doesn’t move the vehicle like QJ does.

Metal

4” exact is the lift all the way compressed without the blocks

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat Awesome Thanks!

lol thanks!

Thanks for sharing!! Unfortunately only video I have but basic hand tools and a jack were used to get the job done

@Cut.Weld.Repeat did you have to support the tire and wheel? Ill be on a hoist.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat Toyota validated that this repair, for them included new arm assemblies. $1500 + job instead of $160 in bushings.

2004-2009 Prius. Several other cars/models out there but I found this to be the best one to utilize in my build.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat thank you for the response. Very few people actually reply to their viewers🤙 you just gained another Subscriber ✌️

Thank you! Yes I try to respond quickly to help others. Good luck with the build

Thank you! Took awhile to get it to this point. Bigger things to come down the road. Appreciate it!

You would have to measure your Vette distance to floor and lookup specs on this

I would guess it’s the pin for the trigger to activate the saw. It’s been over a year so I can’t fully recall. However I purposely separated the top screws for the handle only. So that’s my guess

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat Thanks, but I ended up finding out where it went - it's at the end of the metal spring strap that goes around the sprocket. That thing is easy to fly off during disassembly!

Put it in freezer bag for 30-60 mins while doing disassembly. Then I took out, greased it and pressed in with my hands. No special tools

I was just going to ask the same question!

This regulator only takes NPT. I called Aeromotive he mentioned that to me as well until I confirmed the part number for this particular unit. Lesson learned to buy the newer model in the future. Appreciate the comment! Thanks!!

I just spoke with their Tech Support and they said it’s a known problem! Wow! Why don’t they put that note in the instructions?! 🤦‍♂️

@@Jeromeebappreciate the insight. What alternate brand do you recommend from personal experience??

It’s worth the money if you have a similar set up like mine and you’re using it to do basic maintenance underneath. If you have the space and money, I would definitely get a two post lift. Always better because you can lift higher up and it’s easier to maneuver around under the vehicle. I’m still happy with my purchase, but I just wanna give you another option.

Ok thanks for the info ✌️

If I remember correctly I think I carefully cut it and then beat it off. Honestly I cut so much of the ends off I can’t recall now. It does come off. I think cutting it was easier if memory serves me right

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat I’m trying to stuff one into a 280z and it’s not going well. Hopefully this works.

@@chrishardy6471 I looked back.. between 5-6min mark.. I noted that i cut it off. The larger tube has space you can carefully cut it away exposing the main splined gear. In the end I cut that off as well and made a double D out of it to hook up to a universal joint and to my steering column. Good luck with it! Will be really cool. I was driving the F100 today and love the power steering upgrade. Totally worth it!

Yes to be safe always use a fuse! I used a 14-16gauge wire with a 10amp fuse I believe for my switched ignition wire. For the main positive supply to the unit I used 8awg wire and a 50amp fuse. Wired right to the battery.

Completely agree! Thank you brotha! ✌️

Thank you!

These are great trucks. Built Ford tough

Thanks, good idea! Agree it’s a great saw otherwise

My F100 is 4K lbs. my F150 is 6K lbs so that’s the max. Held it fine for the work I was doing. My F100 has been up on the lift for over a week now, no issues. No drop in pressure etc. has been super helpful to have in my garage

Not that I’m aware of. I even pulled it apart to look at the internal gears. It seems it could turn 360. My trucks steering is the binding point.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat awesome! Just got mine have not had a chance to hook it up yet to see.

@@lukecullett9044 good luck with it!!

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat you already did the work! I just need to follow!