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This time in the shop, we break down the chassis for the roadster pickup for finish welding. We then set up the makeshift paint booth in the shop and prepare everything for prime and paint. After a quick reassembly, we repair and install the brake/clutch pedals, and run the brake lines to the axles.

Some time has passed since our last video. We go over some updates around the shop and make some significant strides forward on the roadster pickup project!!

Today’s major task is to securely mount the body to the frame. This is the first step in handling the steering setup for the car. While we put these simple mounts together, we swapped out the front brakes, exchanged the Model T headlights for some original paint BLC headlights, and adjust the mounting position of the split ‘37 Ford front wishbones.

Today in the shop, we tackle the job of building radius rods for the rear axle. We convert the original 1937 rear torque tube supports into radius rods. These will properly support the rear axle equipped with an open driveshaft planned in the near future.

Today in the shop, we finalize the design of the transmission crossmember that will strengthen the chassis and also support the rear radius rods.

Today in the shop, we make great progress on the RPU chassis. After tacking in the rear axle spring perch, we build out our transmission crossmember to both support the transmission, and verify the location of the F1 ford brake and clutch pedals.

Today in the shop, we pick up where we left off with the distributor on the Flathead. We set our points gap, and use our newly developed timing tool to set our initial advance, then test it out on the flathead. Interested in purchasing a timing tool? They’re available for $30 shipped anywhere in the US. Follow this link: paypal.me/Thehotrodworkshop?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US Send: $30 In the “...

After a long day of finish welding the frame, we install the flathead ford engine and trans. Then we split the wishbones off the 37’ ford front axle assembly

Over the course of a few days, we bit the bullet and built a brand new frame for project “TeeBurn”. We chip away at some 2x4 3/16 thick steel to form a familiar shape to hot rodding. This brings us one step closer to piecing together a really cool roadster pickup!

Over the past few months, we’ve been chipping away at this 1939 Ford to get it prepared to run. After properly setting it up on the stand, we inspected, cleaned, adjusted and rebuilt what was necessary to confidently fire it up. One large piece of the puzzle is set in place.

Today in the shop, we rebuild a 1946-1948 Ford flathead distributor. We discuss the evolution of distributors on Flatheads through the years, dissect our 46’-48’ core, clean reusable parts and replace all wear items. Tune in for “part2” when we prepare the distributor to factory settings, adapt to our 1939 flathead and more!

Today in the shop, we finally get the 59A off the floor and safely mounted on the engine stand.

Today in the shop, we cut out the rotted cowl vent and patch the hole with new 18g sheet metal

Shorts: a few of my favorite things

Project Teeburn: Donor door patch panel

Project Teeburn: Hanging the drivers side door

Allentown Vintage drags Fall 2022

Project TeeBurn: Finish welding cowl section

Fish Carburetor Breakdown

Shorts: Roadster pickup update

Shop Upgrade: Store and Stage Rack

EMMR: Hot rod Annual Allentown Vintage Drags

Electronic ignition vs. Points

Shop upgrade: Hammer rack

Project TeeBurn: Wheelbase mock-up

Project TeeBurn: Address the pile of parts

Fab tech 3: How to determine bead rolling pre-stretch

Quick n’ Easy: Tig torch stand

Project TeeBurn: Mistakes were made