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Thank you for watching and message. You mean the one to detach the speed select dial? It is not a screwdriver, but a radio pliers. Tips were re-shaped with a file by myself.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 thank you for replying, I mean the screw driver to remove the two screw on the accessory shoe on the side of camera( the silver strip with the two screws)

@williamchen5832 Also for them, the tool I explained is available. But for such pig nose 2 holes (:), the screwdriver with the fixed (distance) tips is better. It is difficult to find such a screwdriver in market, so that we should prepare it by filing. The appropriate material is a cheap screwdriver with many tip attachments. You can find a similar shape attachment to the pig nose holes. By filing, you can make its shape more suitable.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 OK I see thank you for explaining!

Thank you for a message. It is a very cheap screwdriver with many tip attachments. I modified the shape with a file to adapt to appropriate hole shapes by myself.

Thank you for a message. No, I'm just an amateur. I cannot do the full-overhaul.

Thank you for watching and a message. The charging lever does not go back to the original position by itself. OK. You can find the spiral belt spring under the lever (under the top panel). 1) Torque was not enough at the previous assembling. 2) Not hooked correctly. 3) Spring was broken. As the possible cases. For your reference.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 thank you very much for your answer! I have opened it up and have already seen that the spring looked a bit loose but after giving it another winding around the axis it was to tight was pulled of its position. Is it possible that there is to much friction due to old lubricant or something similar? It seems as if it is not as free in it's movement as in my other Exaktas. It cannot be appreciated enough that you are answering in such a detailed manner to questions regarding old cameras of people half way around the world. Again, thank you very much!

@marvintix Please see #3 02:47 as well. It shows how to charge the torque at re-assembling. Of course, sticky old grease should be removed.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 I think that way of charging the torque does not work with my VX500 because the way of the lever is shortened and I don't know how to surpass that.

@marvintix Rotate with lever, keep the torque with your finger, attach the lever again, rotate with lever...about 3 sets of this process, rotation will be stopped and torque will be charged maximum.

There is a suitable series for you. m.th-cam.com/video/bkG7Jd4h0ek/w-d-xo.html

Fortunately, my one is still working (but not proper). It is better for you not to expect such a old meter so much. The points to see are... Selenium solar battery is still working or not. All electric circuits are proper or not. There is no physical obstacle on the movement of indicator hand.

ご視聴ありがとうございます。距離計は大体いつも触ります。ライカタイプは対物レンズを外しますので、必然的に調整しながら組み戻す事になります。

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 参考になります！

メッセージありがとうございます。田宮の模型用のカッティングマットです。 www.amazon.co.jp/タミヤ-クラフトツールシリーズ-No-56-カッティングマット-プラモデル用工具/dp/B01LXPGSQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=59022033291&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3Phne5WSzHZ3DE0BYIQRZ4zHiTFWmCtFANDhcNDxUcEbhzxzLuixzyw8TLvUSiKpDok__vq-zhbipVSS39VZHBO_XAc0r1_E3Zl9oO_QJGU0493VUEVhGD2DTXgcayHKfcoY6_9YiuVkYpBtbWc9yrpRS3FuteRnWlK3sSAv25uoGaGof7AnjVLBEvSxhvwwDeEa0KmBoCN6NDZ7rgqjcQ.HS-m8tEjFoeEKZeHjay6iVjA4XFjYz3EM5d9h0zOuzI&dib_tag=se&gbraid=0AAAAAD9tClwwE21NzgKbtyK1-gUcAt7tW&gclid=CjwKCAjw_LOwBhBFEiwAmSEQAaau5-Zn3B-u_SSpyvHMdzgyo3TjhiBaCNxWElUZvW75QF4ZfVEZ4BoCTJEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=665711296721&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1009230&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9768714822090580560&hvtargid=kwd-335447106398&hydadcr=8872_13690254&keywords=タミヤ+カッターマット&linkCode=plm&qid=1712183957&sr=8-4

ご丁寧にありがとうございます！

コメントありがとうございます。 寸法でしょうか？全てではないですが、なるべく動画中で寸法を定規で示すようにしています。 基本は、古いものを採寸するのが良いと思います。

​@@blackcatcameralabo7871 動画中の寸法を参考にさせていて頂きます。 ご返信ありがとうございました。

Thank you for a message. You need to expose the blade area, so I think you should disassemble with obedience to the regular procedures. Depending on the model, just with detaching the rear lens, you can access to the blades, but back side only. You can wipe also front side with bend cotton swab, but you may feel not-satisfied. By the way, if the oil stain does not stop the smooth moving of blades, you can leave it. Oil stain does not affect the photo itself.

​​@@blackcatcameralabo7871 Got an mint uncoated 5cm/2 from 1938 together with matching Contax II. The problem is that if it evaporates and goes to the lenses and it's a huge problem (haze). Seen a beautiful Canon 50/1.5 LTM(sonnar) with a huge back element haze from exactly this kind of issue !!! And my country's summer is quite hot... not like Nippon, so an evapation migt happen :P Seen somewere that you can remove all the front element group and expose the blades from the front. hmmmm

I'm afraid to use a cotton swap with this old blades , I might bend them !!! But your idea using a bent swap is not bad at all !!! I think disassembling the aperture mechanism and cleaning the blades themselves is a more safe option . If I bent them I might be able to replace them with blades from an jupiter 8 but it's to risky.

Oh, I see. About old canon, its a particular symptom. The selection of oil seems not to be appropriate. Nobody know at that time. If you have an anxiety on evaporated oil, it may be better for you to remove all old oil and give new oil. But deep disassembling is needed.

ご視聴ありがとうございます。 自分でも、アッと思いましたが、塗料なんです…。

Sorry, no plan.

Can you fix mine if I send it to you?

@monsieurgolem3392 Sorry, but No.

If I'm correct, I purchased glass one at Amazon. I assume plastic glass is not so good, because its surface is distorted. The glue is often pasted on the back side of old mirror.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 Thank you, the same doubts about acrylics are with me).

Did you do anything like the replacement of shutter curtains? If not, adjust the shutter tension.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 still never did this. Though going to try if curtains tear off as result of my actions:) Should I change intermediate gear position to change tension of one of the curtains ?

@Abrec66 About the tension adjustment, only 2 goal-side-drums are related. Action is just detaching/inserting the stopping pins ("L" shape) to free the tensions. Any gear is not to be detached. When you adjust the tension, the good way is to give the low tension on the 1st curtain first (low as far as possible. If it can run till the end smoothly, it is enough as the standard of adjustment starting). And after that, give the tension on the 2nd one as well gradually.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 So thank you for your golden advice. I'm still learning how I will be doing this, and now it is much clearer after your words. My appreciations, Sir!

I have an idea. I doubt, but what if after releasing shutter at hi speed 1/1000th somehow to slow down one of the gears by fingers to see if the spacing is the same along film frame. It would give a close to real life vision of the relative curtains situation when normal shooting. My pure fingers)...

Thank you for a message. Do you mean the thin sprocket shaft? If I'm correct, it is fastened at body top side with a normal screw on a gear. (I don't remember clearly. )

I mean the silver "spool" that was suddenly removed at 6:27 :D

If so, it is what I explained above. If im correct, you can find a screw(with a gear) on the body top side. Very small space to insert a driver... I don't remember it ir a normal or reverse screw. Please try carefully.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 Hmm I dont see a screw anywhere there. On the top there is only a little mark with a triangle hole at the place where the sprocket spools axis is situated

@vincentanno1997 Oh...anyway, the gear on the top is the obstacle to pull out the pillar. If the screw head has a triangle hole, you must use such shape screwdriver. You can find such item with many tip attachments. www.amazon.co.jp/【2020年最新版130in1】精密ドライバーセット-MOVMAO-トルクスドライバー-滑り止めハンドル-多機能ツールキット/dp/B085QK2T6V/ref=asc_df_B085QK2T6V/?tag=jpgo-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=342401902689&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15958492312837043447&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20636&hvtargid=pla-894949069918&psc=1&mcid=e3caad712d523598ba4399533bceb5ab

No, I didn't polish those parts. Thanks for a message.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 thank you very much..!

Do you mean the half mirror film between the combined prisms? If so, it cannot be cleaned. The prisms can be separated with acetone, but the mirror part is a vacuum metalized film. It is very fragile and can be wiped out easily. If you want to improve the view, the only way is clean other parts on ray ways.

Thank you for 2 messages. Please read my reply on another one.

コメントありがとうございます。確証はないですが、機種ごとにそこまで大きな違いはないと思います。 ただ、経験から言えば、いくらシャッター幕の寸法を正確に切り出しても、幕竿への取り付けシロでズレてしまうので、剥がした元の幕と大まかに同じ程度でヨシとした方が良いと思います。 各竿の位置、すなわち、それを決定づけるリボンの長さの方が重要です。チャージ状態のそれぞれの竿位置が再現できるように作業するのがポイントです。

Thank you for a message. I can say nothing without seeing actual yours. Can't you rotate the lever fully? and does the 2nd curtain back to the charged position correctly? How the top screw on the winding lever? If it is loose, the position between the lever and the gear under the lever might has gone wrong accidentally.

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 I will maybe upload a video for you and then send you a link. Written descriptions are always difficult to do and understand, I think. Thank you very much already :)

Did you figure it out. I'm having the same problem​@@vincentanno1997

Thank you for a message. That is a screwdriver with many attachments set. Maybe, cheap made-in-China product. You can find many such kind of item in Amazon.com.

コメントありがとうございます。 戦前コンタックスと同一ですので、シャッターテンションのチャージ部は、構えた左下にあります。 m.th-cam.com/video/9CK63OYMepI/w-d-xo.html こちらの07:08辺りをご参照ください。

ありがとうございます 見させて頂きました こちらを参考にしたところ粘りのあったスローも無事ベンジン洗浄と注油で蘇りました。 ただ、1/1000だけ露光しない不具合は綺麗にしても改善されずテンションの調整場所を伺いました。 ですがこの機構だと先幕だけ強めたくても後幕も一緒に変化してしまうようですね 中央の先幕だけスプリング調整しないといけないなら更に幕軸を分解する必要がありますか？

@user-uv1es9de4i この系統のZeissのカメラは1か所（ボディー下側の巻き取りドラム内）にまとめられた3つのスプリングで先幕と後幕を動かしています。スリット幅はLeicaのようなシャッター走行時ではなく、巻き上げ時(と、言いますか、走行前)に設定されます。選択するスピードによって、巻き上げ時に先幕が止まるタイミングと、後幕が止まるタイミングが違いますね。1/1,000（や1,250）秒はスリットが最も狭いので、先幕が止まった（＝フックに引っかかった）直後に後幕も巻き上がりが止まります。一方で1/2秒やバルブはスリット幅が広いわけですから、先幕が止まった後も、後幕の巻き上がり量が随分あるわけです。 よって、1/1,000のような最高速が開かない場合には、スプリングテンションの調整ではあまり解決が望めません。（全て同じ軸上に固定されており、3つを個別には調整できないため。） ①後幕の位置をギア1～2歯分巻き上げ方向にずらし、スリット幅を調整する（設計通りかどうかは無視して、私の経験則としては、1/1,000秒の巻き上がった状態でスリット幅は2㎜くらいは無いとダメかなと思います） ②先幕からフックがスムーズに外れるように調整する（フックの掛かりが浅くなるよう、引っ掛け板を手で曲げることになります） の2パターンくらいなのですが、①の方がより根本的な解決方法です。②の場合はシャッターボタンの押し方（サッと押した場合）によっては後幕が走行直後にはもう先幕に追い付いて連結してしまい、スリットが全く開かないまま走行が終わってしまうというケースがありえますし、追い込んだ狭いスリット幅のままですと、やはり画面の途中で追いつかれて画面の後半が露光されない（先幕の走行（ボディー下側への巻き取り）がモタついた場合、途中で後幕が追い付いてスリットが無くなってしまう）トラブルが発生しやすくなります。

Thank you for watching and a message. Do you mean the wrench around at 02:30? That was included in certain tool set supplied by Japan Hobby Tool, but it seems to be not-available now unfortunately. www.yodobashi.com/product/100000001000300334/

Woops! Sorry, I'm late but, I got it now. That is a wrentch for plumbing. ips-tool.co.jp/shop/archives/604

Thanks for watching and a message. The 2nd curtain does not run smooth till the end, correct? Maybe, running power is weak aginst the resistance factors. ・Running power...Spring torque (tension). ・Resistance factors...Gleasy stain around shaft, gears. Degraded (became harder) curtain. Good luck to you!

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 ok, i’m trying to put back a little bit of tension in it, it seems it has never been done before, so i’m trying this out. I’ll keep tou update if it works out! Thanks a lot

Tension up is also OK to try, but I would like to recommend giving a little bit of benzene around the main shaft and gears first, to wash out gleasy stains.

ご視聴ありがとうございます。本来は専用工具が必要ですが、要するにU字なら何でも良いのです。この場合は奥まっているので、100均の長細いペンチの先端をヤスリで加工した自作工具などで対応します。今回の話ではないですが、蟹目の穴の距離が近い場合には、マイナスドライバーの先端を削って作成したりもします。 ペンチ品は可変で色々な穴位置に対応出来て便利ですが、可変ゆえに片方の穴から外れてしまい、カメラを傷つけるリスクがあるので、しっかりと固定して使った方が良いですね。 A-Rリングはシャッターボタンの周囲なので、手垢や錆などで固着している事もありますので、ねじ山部をある程度潤滑をしておくと良いでしょう。最初に芋ネジを外しておくのもお忘れなく。

ご丁寧な回答、ありがとうございました。大変参考になりました。

Thank you for a message. I re-used old one. Open the clip with a knife carefully, and remove the old fabric completely. To fix the new curtain and ribbon, it is better to use the instant adhesive.

Clip...Do you mean the ones for exposure slit? Roller...Do you mean the curtain drum?

@@blackcatcameralabo7871 apologies for the confusion. Yes, I meant the metal clip for the exposure slit where ribbon connects to the curtain. By roller I only meant the way the metal clip is "rolled".

Thank you for a reply. Anyway, for such a clip type, it is better to use the instant adhesive (Cyanoacrylate). Good luck to you!

Thank you for a message. Please refer to #2 03:57. th-cam.com/video/dQimr4oJp0Q/w-d-xo.html You can find the smaller reel to attach the string. Please do not forget to go through the pulley right-bellow of the mask.

Thank you for a question. www.ebay.com/itm/254938642189?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=luqdxdH0QwO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=VdzhOyLCTlO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY www.ebay.com/itm/384834473714?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=skUtt3opThO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=VdzhOyLCTlO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY