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Mine too. Ive tried several thing, among them replace the MAF sensor without success. Now im about to replace the intake maniold...

@@lionyahud see if the swirl flaps are stuck. This deserves a full video. Clogged intake is often the issue. Does the turbo sound strained? Or not boosting at all?

Yep. Im on to the under body and fuel tank connections next.

Hi, I have also starting issues I change, full all transparent fuel lines,Highpressurepump,Fuelfilter, and the FuelPressure controlvalve on Rail but not helping its a C270 cdi W203 year 05/2001 170hp, but when its starting example with startspray it running very well,normal and i can drive ! Can something wrong in Tank,Fuelpump i have two in Tank i dont know which one is the Pump but when the pump in Tank has a problem why running after start Normal ??

Hmm. Get the $3 worth of resistors and diode and do the egr electronic bypass. Disconnect the electrical connection at the modulator on the firewall after. See if that reduces the smoking. My egr was holding open. Have just completed 12 days of cleaning the intake manifold, blanking the swirl flap holes and rejuvenating the egr to make sure it closes correctly. It is useful in cold weather, after all. I have a hand, vacuum pump to open it on (very) cold starts.

Without knowing enough about why: it occurs to me that maf over signal could mean blocked intake and busted flaps. If the motor can't breathe properly, the ecu would log excess pressure @ expected rpm and go into limp. Did you say you'd had the intake hose off @ the egr? Maybe stick a camera / probe in the intake and see how blocked the ports are. When they say 7 hours to do the flaps, they are only counting the wrenching. It took me 6 days to degrease and clean the manifold and egr. And another to get the grease off my skin!

@@ArkadiaII put the shunt in today and did a few glow plugs that came up. Thought I'd take the map sensor out and at least clean it and test it. It was oily so I thought I'd cracked it. Connected it up to the wire just to see what figures I got on live data. Figures were the same as the other day, not changing. Thought the sensor was bad, moved the sensor and got a reading. After much head scratching I managed to find a break were the wires were touching each other but were hidden by what looked like cotton. I can only presume the belt has come off, chafing the wires and hiding them at the same time. I must have been lucky when it briefly worked as I'd had the pipe off and must have moved the wires. Fingers crossed this is the problem, it was getting dark so I'll have another go tomorrow. Also need to get hold of a fuse that goes on the battery as the radiator and seats don't work. Thanks for the good advice. I'll report back if and when I get it fixed😉 cheers

@@phillmcaverty That's excellent news! what a find. Let me know how that goes. The front seat fuses are near your leg, driver's side footwell. I had to put 40A in to stop them from blowing. I think it asks for 35A but they would pop from time to time. It's old, the seats are tired! Also, the radiator fan is that big fuse on the battery. Get one new from MB dealer. worth it. I had swapped the whole fan before realising that the fuse was making intermittent contact!

@@ArkadiaII EGR is not their to warm your engine it's there to reduce NOX gasses.

Yes, aussie50 gave me the courage and motivation to diy everything on this ML. Excellent content.

I'm heading back out there tonight. I'll measure the old one and try and get an id from the hose.

OK, the pump is inner diameter 5mm, outer 8mm, the hose is obviously 8mm ID and about 16mm outer. From what I can read the hose is "Codan H511 AUTOMOTIVE FUEL HOSE SAE 30 R6 WP12 BAR ID..." and its cut there.

@@ArkadiaII why not just fix the fuel system so it doesn't let air in?

@@gogogeedus 😂😅 "fix", that is the dream. My long term plan is to eliminate vulnerabilities . And yes, some tank seals arrived in the mean time.

@@ArkadiaII there's a lot of O rings that often need replacing to stop air getting sucked into the system.