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Glad it helped. The cap is the part that flips the flap for internal or external air. Without that your ac will be stuck on external. You can screw the flap shut to force internal circulation. There is a video in my auto playlist that shows a way to replace that part someone else made that might help.

Glad It helped!

Glad it helped

Glad it was helpful!

There is a video recap at the end that might help you that goes over the steps. I find step by step laid out in a document easier to follow but that is just me.

It actually is what breaks off from the vent that closes to circulate inside air. You can screw the cover closed if you want the high cool option and prevent air from outside. To replace that part, you have to take the whole dash off. I did see a video of someone that just replaced the vent flap from the side door on youtube. just FYI

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Glad it was helpful!

Someone commented that the plug was part of the switch for inside/outside air intake. Just FYI

Hi - I had to go start my truck to check as I didn't remember. I still get 4 chimes when started. Will have to find that setting as well. Post back if you find it! :)

Glad it helped! good luck!

it appears the model is no longer available. This is the link I had in the video. You may want to chat with 4Dtech. I did not use the programmer as I enabled it using Forscan 4Dtech.com - Rear Camera Harness for Sync1 4” screen - $60 www.4dtech.com/backup-camera-programmer-harness-for-ford-vehicles/ Make sure to check your screen for compatibility on the 4DTech sight!!!!!

In addition - looking at the link, it looks like harness A supports all screens and models. The cable picture looks similar to what I installed but would double check with 4Dtech

Thanks for the comment John - I just didn't want to spend a lot of $$ on it and enjoy the puzzle.

Thanks for the comment - hoped it helped!

My truck does not have auto fold mirrors so can not test this. Head over to the f150 ford forscan forum. There is probably info there. Let us know if you find anything! Good luck!

Thanks - here is what I found - 1st Issue with push-down barrel latch, serial number 1 - 91.417, manufactured 1882 - 1902 . www.american-firearms.com/american-firearms/z-pic/pics-S/Smith%20&%20Wesson/S&W-32cal-safety-hammerless-right.jpg Also found that SN 32K was mfg in 1883 series 1. So that is why I think 1882 - good luck with your search!

Check out the www.gunpartscorp.com/ for parts. They have helped me in the past

@@TMackTips Yep, I'm tinkering with the hammer trying to expand the cut out for the sear catch. Just about got it...still a work in progress... Shelling out another $80 for the hammer isnt my cup of tea if I can get it running smooth... I have the blued model, SN 25XXX... Id double check your number for the DOM and your sources...if it had a squared trigger housing and an exposed hammer, Id agree with you, but it should be round as mine is and no exposed hammer. Known as the New Departure or Lemon Squeezer, 1st models (and a key is "hammerless" in .32 not .38). The model 1-1/2 was started in 1878-1892 and the key is one side plate screw on the left side in all model variations 1-4, model 5 had the S&W logo on the right frame. from 1909-1919. From the photo you have here... appears to be at least a 2nd model...(It has the tall tell sign of the S&W logo on the right side of the frame), 1st models didn't have the S&W logo and have two screws on the left. If you take off the grips, you should see the spring for the safety...flat is pre SN 53000... coiled is after 53000. My source info is right out of S&W's book by Jim Supica and Richard Hahas.

Thanks for the updates. Will take a look. The confusing thing is my SN is very low and falls squarely in the first model. Good luck with your hammer mod!

Glad you liked it!

It depends on what version of sync, and oem harness you have. I used an adaptor Y cable that had the RCA video connector in place. If you measure the video input pins, and measures out right, those would be your inputs. There are some videos out their that show splicing or adding pins to the existing cable. I did not do that so not 100% positive. Good luck and let us know the results!

@@TMackTips I’m gonna give it a shot.. I ordered the Veepeak scanner, I’ll follow with attention the steps of your video and I’ll let you know how it goes..

I am not sure on this as I did not remove that part. Looking at the pictures, it appears there is a pin that holds the top sight in. You may have to remove that to access the firing pin. Also the hammer looks like it should pop off the stud. You may have to remove the bottom screw in the handle to remove the large spring in the handle as well. If you figure that out, please post back as it may help others. Good luck!

@@TMackTips thanks and merry Christmas

this was an aftermarket ford talgate camera. if that is what you were asking. As long as the camera has a video input rca type plug - it should work fine.

Thanks, but I don't understand your comment?

@@TMackTips i can't find smart life in samsung smart things

See 1:59 in the video- you have to add a device connector. Also, my phone is android. It might be different on apple ios.

Glad it helped

Josh That might be possible if your 4" screen tests right for the video chip and you can still get the adaptor Y cable for the display. And you mirror has a standard video plug that you would unplug and plug in to the Y cable. Cant say for sure yes - but the video and links might point you in the right direct. I also put a rearview mirror camera on my jeep. See this.... th-cam.com/video/9rrL09uTUP8/w-d-xo.html

Ya - I have since installed a bar that holds up the hammer so I can silence the clock. It was driving my family crazy. The 1/2 hour bong comes from the gear bar in the middle rotating and making the hammer lift and strike. They hourly chime - if you let the spring wind all the way down - wont spin the counter wheel. Or he might of wired up the counter wheel from spinning. Post some pics and let us know how your coming along. It was a long process to figure out how to align the verge assembly to get it to keep running. And also I think it was the elongated holes on the clock facings as well. Good luck and hope to hear it bong in the future!

His restore was actually incorrect. Hire a professional!

No problems at all with this setup. The only issues is when we had ice storms, it got covered and blocked the camera - but hay, that would happen to any of them!

@@TMackTips well in that case a little warmth could help! Haha.

I did not see that as an option in the forscan spreadsheet for my 2013 F150. I think they are totally separate circuits with the blinkers being controlled with a relay. Head on over to the ford forum. Someone there may have an answer. www.f150forum.com/

HI Mike, It depends on a few things. Year of your vehicle, sync system, and what camera you used to replace the old one (factory or 3rd party cam). Some after market cams only support the solid lines, not the guidelines that move. Mine I just have the solid lines that don't move. Some cameras you need to switch those on by a switch, or cut a wire to turn on/off. I would head over to the forscan forum and provide more details on your setup. Hope that helps and let us know how it turns out.

I have a regular tailgate. You replace the emblem with the camera version. The biggest issue is making sure your sync screen is video capable.

Thanks for the info - I do not have a rear sensor on mine. There maybe another setting that would enable it as well. Check out the forscan forum - they may have a solution!

Glad it was helpful! Let us know how it goes!

Hi - yes you can disable the tire pressure sound and notifications. Although I have not done this on my 2013 F150, I have turned them off on my Jeep using a different utility. I would check out the forscan forum for more detailed information. Here is what I found in the forscan 2013 XLS. BCM Module 726-23-01 0101 53 x*xx xx TPMS Autolearn Feature: 0=off, 1=on xxx* xx TPMS Autorange Sensors Feature: 0=off, 1=on 726-24-01 0100 53 x*xx xx TPMS Sensor Type: 0=MY06, 1=MY09 xxx* xx TPMS Sensor Pressure Range Type: 0=low, 1=high 726-25-01 0640 99

I did not have issues with accessing the FCDM module and address. It might be related to the interface device you are using - i have read others having issues with ones that have the switch on them. good luck and let me know if you were successful!

Thanks - it appears the model is no longer available. Also the links to the 4D Tech cable changed as well. I have updated the description. Good luck and let us know what worked for you! 4Dtech.com - Rear Camera Harness for Sync1 4” screen - $60 www.4dtech.com/backup-camera-programmer-harness-for-ford-vehicles/ Make sure to check your screen for compatibility on the 4DTech sight!!!!! Videosystem Compatible Emblem Backup Camera for F150 F250 F350 F450 F550 Year 2004-2016 - $80 (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KTHTMJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - it appears this model is no longer available so replaced the link with a search. www.amazon.com/s?k=Emblem+Backup+Camera+for+F150+Year+2004-2016&ref=nb_sb_noss

I tried that on my 2013. The global widow settings did not work so you are probably right about have to have 2015+ models.

@@TMackTips yeah looked into the forums and they say that the vehicle has to have the 1 touch buttons which both front doors do but when fiddle with the codes it wouldn't activate

Hi Richard, That is sort of how it works. If you enable Bambi mode - your fog lights will remain on when you turn on the high beams. DRL is different. You can enable parking lights, fog lights, and others to come on during the day. Turning these on overrides the manual switches. I don't have the LED lights so not sure if they are tied into the parking lights. Here is what I have in the spread sheet I used from the f15 forum site. Day Light Running Lights BCM 726-11-01 x*xx xxxx xx 1 = DRL enabled low beam 2 = DRL enabled fog lights 3 = DRL enabled turn signals 726-12-01 xxxx x*xx xx Daytime Running Lights uses Parklamps: 0=disable, 1=enable (Note: ALL park lamps will be on including tailights) I have mine set to use both the fog lights, and parklamps. Hope that helps. If not check out the forscan site link in the video title section. Happy Roadtrip!