วีดีโอ

@SkippiiKai I was testing at that frequency as a precursor to running this with ferrite. The higher the frequency the less material you need in the transformer. The commercial psu I found this igbt in was running at 40Khz so I was not too concerned. You are 100% right on the NTC resistor! I hooked this to a treadmill motor and promptly burned the bridge rectifier up. I really should get back to tinkering with this.

Why such a high frequency to drive the IGBT? That will just heat the IGBT up and make it slightly more prone to oscillatiions (keep in mind that at high frequencies, that heating element behaves more like a coil, due to its shape.) I'd also highly recommend putting an NTC between the bridge rectifier and the cap to protect the diodes from inrush.

This is very interesting. Just wondering though why it was necessary to weld up the old holes? This is a very GOOD idea. I will see about duplicating this same jig for mine. I never thought about using an old rotor or brake drum for a fixture but it appears to work very well. Great Job!

Don't do it!!! It ain't worth it! Lol it'll desecrate a beautiful work of art. If you have recoil issues hold it high and tight. I made a whole video about how to hold an old revolver with panel grips and have no recoil issues. The video link below should solve any recoil issues you have. The grips were made perfectly for the guns. You gotta hold it high and tight. th-cam.com/video/hmIINRz5Kuc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=U389SSeIOrKr4_an

When you have an NPN and you find out you have a PNP

Yep, I'm sure your target audience is out there somewhere.

once a amazing land replete of culture and history now a hellhole of shameless goldiggers, would you trust them to make your baby formula?

PNP?!?

Have you powder coated these bullets?

With flyback(Zvs circuit)?

Awesome job.

I wish hogue made this laser for s&w j frame m36-1 squre butt .38spl.

Check out Missouri Bullet Co... they have a Hi Tech coated bullet that works great

awesome

For me Tightgroup works well in 45 Auto with 200g cast, but I also haven’t had great results in 9mm. In 9mm with cast bullets I’ve also had Bluedot work well, along with Unique.

The 124 tumble lube shoots well for me, powder coated in Eastwood LFB with Unique. Wanted one load that is reliable and accurate in everything from micro 9 to pcc.

😇 𝐩𝓻Ỗ𝓂Ø𝓈Ｍ

Nice! How's Fastro?

How did you end up getting the piece out.. I have a 1990 Sierra sle same problem mine broke off like that

OUTSTANDING!👍👍👍

Good video thanks

I use the Lee 124 grain tumble lube design for all my 9mm ammo. Works great right out of the mould without having to size the cast bullets. Rusty, K9POW in eastern Tennessee.

Good tool

Is that the Airweight?

Can I ask you a question. As I understand it, using your basic tools, its possible to measure and derive (Mechanical and Vacuum) measurements of Advance at various RPM levels and this is what creates your Advance Curve. Obviously you set Initial timing first by rotating distributor to line up with the desired degrees of advance....in my example I assume Ive set it at 4 degrees Initial Measure 1 (Initial + Mechanical advance eg 4 Degrees Initial Timing + Mechanical) = say the 16 degrees measured at 1500 rpm with no vacuum (therefore you can work out mechanical adv was 12 degrees). Measure 1 taken using timing light on crankshaft tape with VACUUM is DISCONNECTED from vacuum canister on distributor and the hose is plugged to either ported vacuum or manifold vacuum Measure 2 (Total Timing =Measure 1 ...which was 16 deg above + Vacuum advance) = say the 29 degrees measured at 1500 rpm with Vacuum connected (therefore you can work out Vacuum advance was 13 degrees). Measure 2 taken using timing light on crankshaft tape BUT VACUUM is CONNECTED from vacuum canister on distributor to either ported vacuum or manifold vacuum You do these same measures and calculations at various rpms and you can manually chart your advance curves. You can see what is specifically Mechanical advance, what is specifically vacuum advance at each of the various RPMs and therefore how they contribute to the total advance. If you have too much advance or not enough, you can play around with springs for mechanical advance and adjust the vacuum canister if you want to change vacuum advance

Informative video. Ref correct screwdriver size - Brownells has a nice set of bits for the S&W revolvers.

I'm a little late to this party but have a answer to the 124 RN. I found most of my load manuals state 124 lead to be seated at 1.050. Do the plunk test on your shortest chamber and seat accordingly.

Using straight wheel weights my lee 124gr TL drop at 120gr and my 125gr drop at 130gr

But did it work lol

LOL squeeze the trigger and hang on.

Do you have a video of the INSTALLATION of these grips?

Do you have the part number for the spring and grip. Thank you good video.

Can you give advice on which mould to get for powder coated bullets? Im starting to reload for a cz Shadow 2 and plan to do powder or poly coated bullets. Im not sure which mould to get. Im tending to the 124Gn round nose because it is the cloasest to commercial bullets. Would like to hear some experience on that though.

Have you learned anything yet??

124gr

Thank you for the vid. A member of my group gave me a 9 and .40 mold free. The 9mm is the last one your talking about

So, how'd they work out? Do they help manage the recoil?

thanks for the video.

Direct and to the point. Really like this vid.