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Hi there, this would be project dependent. If you are doing a garden path then you can do it on top. However, for larger projects like a driveway, you may have to get a friendly bobcat operator or small digger in to do this for you.

Hi Jacquline! GardenStax are made from high quality chemical free heat-treated timber.

Hi Eli, thank you for your question. For information about the diameter of post holes, follow the link to our SureWall Installation Guidelines: 3724441.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=3955610&c=3724441&h=a4c2b464a50bc949aac4&_xt=.pdf&fcts=20200129174714&whence=

I worked in excavation for about 17 years and from what I experienced with landscapers in that time, I'd say it's definitely not one answer fits all. This is the reason why for many places, an engineer must design a retaining wall over a certain height. If it was just one blanket rule then engineers wouldn't be needed. I've drilled ground that was like rock, and you could get away with a hole depth less than the height out of the ground, and a fairly small diameter. Then it would go to the opposite end of the scale, where you have moist sandy ground that had very little firmness to it. These holes could be deeper than the height out of the ground and a larger diameter. You have steep sideways sloping ground, steep ground front to back, and again this can change the depth requirements. Then you have very expansive earth and not so expansive earth. Clay can dry, shrink and drop, then expand when it gets moist again, putting a lot of "push" on the wall. To help prevent this, landscapers would cut the earth back at an angle to reduce this effect, filling the space with drainage rock. Of course that meant excavating and getting rid of more earth, and buying in more drainage rock. The one thing I've seen countless times (especially with DIY jobs LOL) is the wrong choice of depth/diameter for the hole, and some time later, the wall starts leaning forward, and it's very ugly. I've worked with cheapskate landscapers that cut all the corners they could, and I've worked with those that did a very similar wall in similar ground, but did the job in a whole different way. The worst ones would fill behind the wall with the expansive clay they dug out. I can only imagine what those walls looked like down the track. So my advice is research as much as you can so you can make an informed decision on the depth/diameter of the hole, based on you site conditions.

Hi Alsub! Please give us a call or email and we can help you out with that: www.strol.co.nz/contact-us/

Hey there, sorry we only sell SureWall in New Zealand.

Hey there, the maximum grade we recommend SurePave can be installed on is 20% (1 in 5) or 11 degrees, providing it is installed as per our standard installation guide.

Hey there, sorry we only sell SureWall in New Zealand.

Did you ever find anything comparable in the US?