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I favor a UCO lantern you can stack dead wood sticks around it and the beeswax candle will eventually dry out the twigs.

I have a way that might take longer, but it never fails. Cut 4 "logs" 8" long, 3-4" OD, Bind them together, ideall with steel wire, but bark, grass, roots, vines can be made to suffice. and then, once the bundle is well lit, prop the logs together with dirt, wood, stones. Shave off the wetness and bark 1/3rd of the way around each log's circumference. When you assemble this "Alternative Swedish fire torch" (you tube) face the shaved sides towards the center of the bundle. the only dry wood needed is the piece from which you create the shavings wihch you stuff into the empty center of the bundle. "chop" (or baton) these shaved sides, creating chips which you leave attached to the logs. When you assemble the bundle, face the 'open" end of these chips all in the same direction. When you stand-up the assembled Swede-bundle, face those open ends of the chips DOWN. This will "guide' the flames into the logs. Make some scrapings out of the same piece of dry wood as the shavings. To get the dry wood, you can spliit open a small log with wooden wedges, which you baton into some saw kerfs. Alternatively, youc can just baton or shave them off of the "log" of dead wood. Use the scrapings to ignite one end of the Swede. With gloves or debris to protect your hands, wave the bundle around (mostly horizotally) until you get flames out of both ends of the bundle. Stand the bundle on 2-3 sticks or stones, so that air can get uner it. Use a couple of such Swedes to ignite the protruding ends of a Siberian log fire when all is wet. Shave the ends of the logs where you will ignite them, if they are not already charred from being ignited before. YT has lots of videos about the Siberian log fire. You can have a Siberian with 4" OD, 4 ft long logs. To get such logs up in the air, where they need to be, Drive 4 long stakes into the ground Stack 3 logs between the stakes, forming a "wall". Lay your burn logs across this "wall". leaving their ends protrudring about a toot beyond the wall. The fire takes place at the ends of the logs and you can just move them forward as they are consumed. You dont want the wall to burn, so you CAN warm up the ground with a normal fire, dig a pit, and then use hot rocks and the pit to melt snow/ice and make mud, Plaster a 3" thick layer of mud on the fire side of the wall and you wont have to keep replacing the "wall-logs". The Siberian projects all of its heat in one direction, twice as far as a normal fire. Once it is burning well, rain can't put it out. So the Siberian can be out in the rain, while it's heat is safely coming under the edge of your tarp or primitive shelter, drying out clothing /warming you.

back then, they had nothing else, so yes, fire was vital. However, if things are wet, it's 31F or warmer, which aint that cold, IF you stay dry and out of the wind. If you know to use 2 of Amazon's 1/2 lb each "cut-leaf" type of camo nets and 2 of their 1/4 lb each bugnet "suits" as longjons, your sweat will not soak your cammies. If you know to use reflectorize tyvek bivy (2GoSystems" Trifecta', the XL size) as a poncho, you wont get wet from rain, I used "seam seal" tape to assemble a couple of SOL Heat sheets, into a bag configuration. I use this and a net hammock in which to sleep, I pull the hammock and a ridgeline thru the bivy and another ridgeline between the bivy and the Heat sheet "envelope". I also wear a tyvek coverall for sleeping When it's sub freezing, I use local debris between the layers listed above. Shake or strike off any wetness/snow that you can. Add a bit of debris at a time, letting your body heat dry it out. It's trapped AIR that insulates you, folks, not the goose down, wool, spun fiberglass, etc. Air has no detectable weight, or bulk, without sophisticated instrumentation and it can't become so soaked that it's worthless/dangerous to you, as wool, down, etc, most certainly CAN. You can always add a fire, hot rocks, or water bottles, IF you are not moving. My gear lets you move, but you can dump-off the insulation. and replace it later, if you wish.

I'm thinking maybe, take off the damp outer bark on the sticks? A stone backstop and hopefully most of the smoke would go to that, instead of the tarp. All the fatwood that you can muster! I'd carry a supply of it. Build as dry as possible platform for your fire lay. Avoid wet hypothermic conditions period- conmandeer a farmhouse!

Cowboy coffee, that’s how I make it camping, I just let it boil till the grounds fall down themselves, the confederates didn’t have a proper coffee supply, they would used roast dandelion root for a substitute , no caffeine tho, dandelion tea is also good for health, out on the march and see some and pick it, those guys back then knew the land

Coffee drinking is more about how we feel physically and the atmosphere in which we drink it. Prove this by making a pot of coffee on some real cold morning and drink some in the house. Then take some in a thermos and drink it in some scenic location when you're tired from a long walk and in need of warming up. I guarantee it'll taste much better. P.S. You're videos are excellent.

You can indeed easily make fires first time, every time. When you understand what you're doing and put in the time to prepare properly, that is. Doesn't matter if it has rained hard for several days, nor if using solar, Flint & Steel, Rudiger Fire Roll, Bow or Hand Drill, matches, etc. It always comes down to understanding the process and materials, then putting in the time to properly prepare.

THE CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS PARCHED CORN REALLY BLACK (BURNT) AND MIXED A WEE BIT OF COFFEE WITH THAT PARCHED CORN, GROUND IT ALL UP TOGETHER, AND THAT WAS OUR COFFEE, NOT THAT TASTY BUT IT WAS OK - BUT YOU KNOW GOOD AND WELL THAT WE ALL HAD OUR COFFEE AT THE LOCAL STARBUCKS, THEN WE FOUGHT A HELL OF A BATTLE BETWIXT OURSELVES AND BURNED THE DAMN PLACE DOWN - DAMN YANKEE - LMAOx1,000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU ALL MADE A GOOD VIDEO, BRAVO!!!!!!!

if you are doing this in a real life situation rather than a re-enactment with restrictions carry your lifeboat matches in their waterproof container but switch out two of them for a 'magic' birthday cake candle

And another thing, red is a confederate color, not union

It was common to carry a flint and steel kit. In it was usually a bit of charred cloth. A few splinters of fat wood and a candle stub.

Waste of a lot of wax. Better to hold your (better) birds nest in your hand while holding the candle underneath. Once you have flame, invert the bird’s nest and let the flame rise up through the whole bundle. Candles were too precious to be wasted by poor preparation and technique.

Thank you for making this short and pointing out the good and the bad of re-enacting the artillery

I'd say the quickest cheat is to use a bit of lamp oil, but the cold blast lantern that would make sense for camping gear is only a few years off from being period-correct in this context. (Although those settlers heading into the great westward expansion after the war would have that in their kit.)

Did you buy your food bags labeled? Who from ?

Hello! I am a civil war reenacter and would like to know how to shoot a cannon. What unit are you a part of? Im a part of 16 Georgia

I use a stainless steel cup

You might also try going into the woods and draping off some pine pitch or bitch bark. Fanning the flames with a bit of newspaper or a folded map saves a heap of deep breaths.

starting a fire in wet conditions is a very good skill to have... I keep a few candle stubs as you did for this purpose as well - you can drip wax onto the sticks to aid in combustion. *LIKED* the video and perhaps will see you on the march someday. Yar Pard --LT

nice vid man

A very good point!

Nice video, interesting topic.

If you go to some civil war reenactments such as War Days in Jones County G.A you can find Rum Creek Sutler and he is the only sutler i go to if i need it he has it

Thanks 😊

Birch bark! Even when it's damp, it lights up pretty easily.

Nice

it is supposed to be a compliment when i tell you that your channel immediately reminded me of townsend. great stuff, keep it up

Thank you, I've been trapping for awhile now and have spent many cold nights because I couldn't get a fire with wet wood, honestly never thought to use a candle. Thank you.

Do you think the CS Jean wool would be any good? Great video pards

Great to see y'all posting again! The production quality of this video is top notch! Keep it up gents!

That actually isn't too bad.

What would be the main difference in uniforms like sackcoat, frockcoat or shell jacket? I mean what depends what you will get issued with? And was there difference in use?

It could be good for a CS impression, since some confederates had federal Kepis/forage caps, and you wouldn’t be able to tell that the blue color wasn’t completely accurate.

So glad to see another video pop on the home page! Say… what that neat looking hat you got on?

Great Video. What the heck is that carpet hat you've fez thingamabob!?

As a union soldier currently fighting in Gettysburg I find this guide very helpful!

Keep the videos coming pard. *LIKED* the video. perhaps see you and your crew in field.

coffee the "marching fluid" of the Infantry. *LIKED* the video Back Yard History Battles

What is that tie thing around your neck? I have some period material and I love sewing. It would be a fun project. Another great video! Or short rather😂

I think it would be also kinda nice to say something about the rifle which you use. Some history about use of this pattern in war.

Wow, just wow. A great video. I must say good sir you have a knack for editing!

Thank you for this video! Absolutely amazing and I love the quality! I don’t drink coffee myself I honestly think it’s disgusting but still definitely enjoyed!

Definitely agree with you on C&C definitely not the best and most accurate gear but for the incredibly cheap prices it’s worth it. For example myself I’m a young teen getting into the hobby I don’t want to spend 300 dollars on a Richmond Depot Type II jacket from B&B tart and other places. But when I stop growing around the age of 19-21 I’ll start buying that stuff. Honestly for the price C&C is great. Just a rule that everyone should follow. If you know you are going to stick in the hobby get quality leathers and a haversack and canteen DO not buy a top quality Hat Jacket Pant Shirt Brogans Until you fully stop growing around Thank you for this very informative post! I am very excited that you guys are back and I’ve been a fan for quite a while.. I definitely think you would like my channel also! I post more WW1 content because my civil war kit is still growing but you will see more civil war gear in the near future… God Bless!

You should check with the Depot Historic they are very good people and have some amazing products. And when you buy and check out you have two options pay full price or make payments. Last sutler to check is the Maryland Sutler he is every good and has B&B Tart and N.J. Sekela uniforms

Stainless is absolutely acceptable as long as it's a repro and not some yeti or something

Thank you, I can finally get my caffine fix im oh oh, so desperate for. Huzzah! For the coffee!

Thanks for another amazing video, I don’t drink coffee myself, but it’s just fun to listen to!

Do NOT recommend C&C

Damn I’m excited

This is what we’ve all been waiting for!