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I have definitely run higher discrimination many times, when I’m in the older fields, I tend to lean towards low dis discrimination since a lot of my pewter stuff, smaller buttons would be discriminated out, not to mention the amount of times i’ve went after a target that was masked by foil or can slaw.

I am in NC

You are absolutely right!

Me too 🥹

For real! I’m at Digstock X right now. It’s been an….interesting time.

It’s a great machine. The customization of programs and fine tweaks you can make to tone breaks, audio filters and tone sounds…I’m afraid no one is touching XP right now. Maybe the Nokta Legend is sort of comparable.

Thanks!

Nice! 😂 It will be colder here quite soon. Don’t care to detect much in the cold, but I do it. Going to digstock December 6th-8th in Tarboro, NC on a 750 acre farm. Hope to have some footage there.

Thanks! I appreciate it!

No, custom program that I mess around with based on my soil conditions. It is based off of the general program though.

Thanks! I’ll have a new equinox video out this weekend.

Weird isn’t it. I’ve seen that happen before. Just thought it was odd.

I get about 5-6 hours in most Saturdays. I do some detecting after work. I’ve got a few permissions that I’ll be unloading to the channel over the next couple of weeks.

That predator phoenix is in my opinion, THE BEST!

Absolutely! So, I always hand pick Chromis and Anthias. Once handpicked at my LFS. I then check them over one by one for obvious signs of Uronema before I leave the store with them. They can be asymptomatic carriers anyway. So, keep that in mind. The success in keeping them is feeding often, small meals throughout the day. Especially at first. If you have insufficient filtration to do that continually, you can scale back the feeding for them over the course of several weeks. The anthias and chromis that were in the tank before the additions are only fed once or twice per day. These new guys will be fed 4 times per day on the auto feeder.

Thank you! Still tuning it.

Right?! There’s benefit there, no doubt! There’s proof in their distribution of adequate light intensity and par. I don’t doubt that they’d be great lights to have. However, I don’t have a tank full of thousands of dollars in corals. I can’t justify that type of purchase. I just want to enjoy my tank and its inhabitants.

I like the footprint of a 150, good height, depth and swim length for larger fish.

Turkey baster at the foot. You have to squeeze the bulb hard and super close to an edge to start exposing the foot. Make sure it’s water only and no air in the baster. Just keep doing it about 5-8 times and it’ll start coming loose. Keep working at the foot until it gets mostly removed, then I grab them by hand and super slowly start pulling, they’ll release. They are all healthy and doing well at my LFS. If you happen to have Marco rock like I do, sometimes they can bury themselves deep in the rock. In that case, I irritate the nem to get it to close and then flip the rock over. They’ll reach for the light and most of the time try to relocate.

@@justinadams543 I always thought it was much harder than that!

@MikeLemming that’s all I’ve ever done to remove anemones. I used to use a powerhead with a small hose attached to it so I didn’t have to squeeze the bulb. It doesn’t work for every nem, but I removed 11 of them using that method.

Thanks!

Thanks bud! About to trade those nems for corals soon.

@@justinadams543 any tips I just had my first nem split, want to get them to split a little more consistently?

@@gabrielblaisdell6473 so, what kind of anemones do you have? Mine are RBTA’s. They tend to spit a lot without much help. But, I do know that it depends on your water quality and the maturity and health of the nem. These just can’t seem to stop splitting. I don’t feed anemones ever. So, maybe focus on consistency within the aquarium. Testing parameters, lighting schedules, flow…there’s a bunch in play there. I don’t know how mature your tank is.

Thanks!

💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽

Thanks! Appreciate ya!