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For what? Intake or exhaust? Case, air cooler or water cooler radiator?

No problem!

500-1600 RPM

No, it is very quiet.

You're welcome!

Around 600 RPM.

Thanks for letting me know about that!

No problem! I'm glad it was useful!

Yes.

Thanks, I really appreciate it!

Np

Sorry, that's all the light I've got.

By that, are you referring to ARGB, or do you just want to change the lighting mode to your preference?

There are no options other than lights on and off. It's a crappy keyboard, so I hope you didn't pay much!

Yes.

@@ThePCExpertAmateur Thanks, but I ended up going with idcooling

No worries. Why'd you choose ID-Cooling?

@@ThePCExpertAmateur I've seen and heard mostly positive reviews from them, and that might be a bad sign because all positive no negative means its rigged, but, in this case, it isn't, they actually make good quality products, in this case, the fans, I have ordered them already, waiting for them to arrive haha

Just like many other manufacturers/resellers, ID-Cooling has good and bad products. Let me know how you feel about the model you got and which, please.

That is exactly what you can do. Last I saw this case, it was under a different brand: DarkRock.

Sounds about normal. You could try using FanControl by Rem0o, which can tell you the actual percentage range for your fans if you run that scan. Almost all fans are limited at the low end, and when it gets below a certain voltage they can't turn anymore, even the ones that say they have 0 RPM.

@@ThePCExpertAmateur Oh wow, that's an interesting little program. I just played with it for a bit and it has better fan control than the actual bios. I'll have to check it out properly when I have the time, thanks 👍👍

You bet! It's got a lot of functionality, so make sure to explore it a lot.

Thanks! You should be able to connect the ARGB to your motherboard via an ARGB header. Usually, at the base, there's a white piece of plastic, and then it looks like a 4-pin header missing one of the middle pins. Do NOT try to connect it to an actual 4-pin header! Not all mobos have ARGB headers, though. If you don't see it, tell me which mobo you have and I'll look it up. They are almost always located along the edges of the mobo.

You're welcome! Depends on which set you bought. Some fans have it in the controller, others in the fans.

I'm not an LED hater, I just have no use for them. They don't help performance and they waste electricity. Sure, they're pretty to look at but even with the glass side of my case a foot from my face, I don't spend time looking inside unless I'm doing something. I understand that many people want them, so I don't dissuade people like some volunteers on forums. If your lights are soothing or whatever, more power to you! I have the ARGB on my cooler unplugged. ;) I'd have the ARGB on my mobo turned off except I use my mobo to demonstrate the A/RGB LED displays.

If you have documented the changes with test results, I urge you to contact Intel. If they blow you off, go to Gamers Nexus and JaysTwoCents!

Do you have any documentation of the degradation you've observed? I haven't had any problems with my 12700k. Have you contacted Intel? Filed a complaint with Gamers Nexus?

Great! So glad I could help!

Thanks!

Glad I could help!

Thanks for the question! These are the specs of the III's fans: (300~1650 RPM / DC 12 V, 0.23A, 0.35A / 83.5 CFM / 2.3 mm H2O / 33dB-A). That means the Kaze Flex is definitely superior. They don't have ARGB, but they do have RGB: www.scytheus.com/kazeflex-140-square-rgb and you'll need to get the KF1425FD18SR-P. (the 18 refers to max RPM) They have ARGB , but only 120mm. Kaze Flex ARGB 120 www.scytheus.com/kazeflex-120-argb Kaze Flex 2 ARGB 120 www.scytheus.com/kaze-flex-ii-120-argb The Kaze Flex 120mm ARGB is slightly better than the Lancool's fans if you get the KF1225FD18AR-P. For the KF2, there's only one (KFS1225FD20AR-P) and it's somewhat better than the original.

I've asked Tony about the ETA. You definitely cannot put 2 LF3s in those positions. You MIGHT be able to install one but the other would have to be smaller. If I have time, I'm going to try. This morning, I already took some measurements and flipped the front mounting tray around so that the fans are recessed, which gives some space for a rad.

@@ThePCExpertAmateur Thanks a lot for the response. I should have been clearer in my previous response but I am intending to put a single AIO on the side of the case with 3 140mm fans. And then normal (so no AIO) fans on the front and bottom. 3 140mm fans in the front and 1 140mm fan in the bottom towards the front. So I will only have one AIO on the side of the case with fans set to exhaust. And then front and bottom intake fans. (And of course top and back exhaust fans as well) I am very concerned with fitting the Liquid Freezer III with 140mm fans AND fitting all the other spots with 140mm fans as well. Very concerned whether it will all fit. Either way, I really appreciate the effort you’re going through to help me out and again much appreciated for the thorough review. Keep up the good work!

Ah, thank you for the clarification. Yes, that will be fine. You can look at page 36 of the manual. I think, since you have the wider LF3, that you'll need to reverse the front mounting tray for extra clearance on the side, though. Manual link: www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/Manual/case/Multi-SETA-A2-Manual.pdf I haven't yet had the chance to verify what you're discussing but, if you want me to I will do that after I get home today. What say you? Happy to help!

@@ThePCExpertAmateurOnly if it’s not too much trouble for you. I would certainly really appreciate it as it would allow me to make a much more informed decision when it comes to going for this case. Thanks a lot!

I'll even attempt to make a video.

Love that comment - very amusing! Thank you!

I appreciate it! Thanks!

You are most welcome, and thanks for sharing that glimpse into the early years of (fairly) extreme watercooling!

You will find that there is no predicting how much a Chinese company will demand for their fans. Look at SAMA, which started price-gouging with crappy LED fans and only recently has started to move in the direction of better performance instead of just looks and quietness. The Noctua A12x25 is famous but it's neither the quietest nor the most performant (or both) but the regular models are amongst the most expensive! For $12 with a speed switch and decent performance, it's actually one of the cheapest options from a known brand. Most of the others that offer speed control are far more expensive. I do have a USB-powered fan from SXD00L that includes a pot. speed controller for $16 (but I think this one is probably better); the initial review will be out next weekend.

Thank you, I won't!

What fans are they?

If you tell me which fans you have, I can answer...

You're welcome - I'm glad it was helpful!

Thanks! That is one of the many tests I'll be performing on all of my fans.

You're welcome!

Thanks. I've got a bunch of tests to run.

Yes, you can change the colors because it's ARGB. Plug it into your mobo ARGB (4 minus 1 pin) header, make sure that any BIOS setting for ARGB is turned on, and then use software (mobo software, OpenRGB, SignalRGB, etc.).

Not very quiet but not very noisy, either.

Thanks for sharing! There are others that are also quite good, but most are either unknown and thus a risk, don't have a great rep, like SAMA, or are expensive.

I'll do my best to help. Are you saying that you plugged your ARGB cable from your AIO into a 4-pin header on the mobo? Which header is it? There should be a designation on the mobo, or you can look in your manual. Is this your mobo: www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A620M%20Pro%20RS%20WiFi/index.asp If the header has 4 pins and is black at the base with a tab on one side, that's a PWM header to control the fan, not the lights. If the header has a white base and 4 pins, it's most likely RGB (not ARGB). Both of them use 12V. An ARGB header uses 5V. If you plug an ARGB cable into an RGB header, you'll fry the lighting.

Until they rev up to max RPM, and then they're a bit noisy like almost every high-speed fan, right? :) Thanks for commenting!

@@ThePCExpertAmateur Fan curves are your friend with these. Lol!

@@jamesm568 Definitely!

Yeah, I'm sorry about that. I wasn't using my mic and tried to correct the volume in post, but it didn't work well, as you have pointed out. Thanks!

What is it that you're having trouble with? Have you checked my videos about connecting fans yet?

LOL!!!! Thanks!

Hey, if you're satisfied with it, that's great. I'm not saying it's not worth $8, just that it's not going to suit the needs of some people. I agree about the wrist rest; that was poorly designed.

@@ThePCExpertAmateur I spoke too soon.. after gaming with it several hours over 2 days (very limited keys needed), then I actually got in my email and found multiple keys did not work! =/ So it's going back to the store. Try typing a message without the letter N. LOL

@@laurenandtheyarn3619 @laurenandtheyarn3619 That's even worse than the one I bought! Wow! Thanks for sharing!

What???? I don't have a hijab. I'm a man!

I guess you didn't see my video beforehand, right? Yeah, just take it back, John.

@ThePCExpertAmateur no I just looked it up on Google and found your video. And to top this off, I paid $17+ for it. There is one born every minute.

Take it back to Ollie's - they'll accept it.

Well, that sucks! Make sure to put a review on Amazon. If Amazon offers for you to join their review program, you can get free products!

@@ThePCExpertAmateur Oh I will, however I have noticed a trend since I saw your video. Companies are introducing new models of fan with much less power. 1500 RPM seems to be the new standard. Given these are on their way anyway, I will try one out and see if they make much difference to my setup. I will of course let you know how I get on too. Thank you for your help.

@@djGreenALERT Most likely, those are for people who want quiet fans, not performant ones. I look forward to your update!

@@ThePCExpertAmateur I toyed with the idea of replacing one fan for another, but seeing as the pack contained 3 fans, I decided to think out of the box. I replaced the fan that was on it's way out and sure enough no it wasn't as powerful as the one I had.. but I used another fan as well (connected to Molex) using a heat resistant non-permanent adhesive, I stuck it to the floor facing upwards. Mixed with the outside temperatures dropping rapidly (about 20 degrees Fahrenheit) I have to say, this has worked a treat. The GPU was idling @137F / CPU @120F Hard Drives around 120 (C drive) / 100 for the other drives - Compared to now = GPU 98F / CPU 90F - Hard Drives C= 82F / Other Drives in the 70's. Overall, I am more than happy. It just took a little bit of adjusting.

Great job! What is the name of that adhesive? I would be curious to know how it performs during the summer heat.

LOL! With stabilizers and a rear rotor? Probably.

Great! I love how soft it is.