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There's a small gain by doing the base gasket delete all on it's own.

I put the ported stock 45.2mm top end back on the saw and it runs great. Forget the 48mm top end exist, it's a down grade with the non windowed piston and the crappy timing numbers it has. I dont know of a windowed piston that fits and it's really hard to fix the timing with the supplied piston, the exhaust is too high, it free ports if you drop the cylinder and the combustion chamber gets tiny if you machine it down. This project was a pita and didnt work out.

Lol Can you tell me what the piston measure's from the top of the wrist pin hole to the top of the piston? The piston that comes with the 48mm kit is 12.5mm.

I messed up, it's a 036 piston and the wrist pin is 10mm so the stock bearing fits. I think the 038 piston could work too, it's a 12mm pin, if it's bearing doesnt fit the one for a husky 61 does, it has a 12mm pin too. I test fit a husky 61 piston, it doesnt work because the rings end is in the intake port, it fit the rod fine.

​@@nseric1233lol Can you let me know what the piston measure's from the top of the wrist pin hole to the top of the piston? 48mm that comes with the kit is 12.5mm. Just curious.

@@jamesh8136 It's 17mm from the top of the piston to the top of the wrist pin hole. I rounded when I said close to 5mm taller, it's 4.5mm. With two base gaskets and a 1/8 spacer plate between them it should fit or be close enough I only need to sand the band a little. The bad part of the spacer plate is you need one under the carb holder too and need to slot the lower muffler bolt holes.

Alliexpress, they're only a couple bucks. Search for 5200 chainsaw air filter, more stuff pops up when you search for the more common 5200.

Timberpro6150. It's about 5 years old, I dont think you can get them anymore, they were a very good chinese saw. You can find similar ones on alliexpres. Look for the one with the small bolt at the very back. The good air filter is also on there for a couple bucks.

14000rpm but it would drop to 10000 cutting so anything over 13000 was just extra noise lol. I have a 61 husky torn apart for a 72 kit. It looks like the 48mm 61 piston might work in the 48mm cylinder and it has cut outs so the transfers can flow a lot more. The 61 piston is a couple mm taller but otherwise fits, I'll have to mill it down and run a couple base gaskets to make it work.

@@nseric1233 well yesterday I got mine going. My numbers are very similar to yours as far as the RPM's go. It feels more torquer/grabbier than the 45.2mm but doesn't have the rpm in the cut to hold rpm like the smaller one does

I looked up that piston and found two variants of it. The one you have does it actually have windows in it?

@@jamesh8136 No but the sides of the piston are 1/2 an inch from the cylinder so it can flow in that area. There's also a stihl 038 48mm piston that might fit.

I did a little googling today... The stihl 036 48mm piston is likely the best one to swap in. It has a 10mm pin just like the clone, the ring pins are off to the sides of the intake port like the clone and it has big windows for lots of flow. Im sure it's taller but dont know how much, taller isnt a big deal tho sanding the squish band down will fix that so will running a couple base gaskets. The husky piston has the ring pin in the middle of the intake port, which may in up in the port if the height is off a touch.

I made a new video on how I make them. I use steel now after my homemade plastic one failed on my timberpro. You can also find better plastic ones on ebay they're called performance intakes for 5200 chainsaws.

Raise the transfers the same amount as the exhaust if not a little more. My 52cc saw has ex 104, tx 120 and 78 intake. It runs pretty good and stays at higher rpm in the cut than another one I did with 24-25 degrees of blow down.

@@nseric1233 Thank you. I prepared the cylinder, raised the exhaust, but I'm having trouble raising transfers with my tools. I will run it with long blow-down first and I'm also preparing a second piston with a chamfer on the sides where transfers are. I understand that this acts the same as raising the transfers. This way, by changing pistons, I could compare how it runs with long and shorter blow-down.

@@homopit42 I end up grinding the piston in the quad transfer port cylinders as I make a mess trying to raise the transfers, it's good for 2-3 degrees. I can grind the top of the transfers in the dual port cylinder ok with a flat top grinding stone in my dremel using the top of the stone not the sides. It's slow going but does a decent job, it catches and makes a mess in the quad port ones tho.

I did a base gasket delete on all of em. Squish was still about 040 without the gasket. I have a 50cc one down to 025 but had to deck the cylinder to get there. My supmix/timberpro has .030 after decking it. I dont have a lathe, I found 2 inch abs has the same id as the flange on the cylinder. I put a little piece of pipe in a 2 inch elbow, glued sand paper to it and sanded the bases down.

16000 plus, I was trying a new cylinder and tuning it, I had it set too lean for a second. It broke by the flywheel side bearing but the bearing spins fine, could of been a fluke tho and that saw was 4-5 years old. My 5800 runs at just under 15000 rpm and is doing just fine. I run 32-1 to help them survive. I've found 14000-15000 rpm to be the sweet spot for these saws. Raise the exhaust any more for more rpm and they dont gain anything you only loose tq.

@@nseric1233 appreciate the information I've been starting my builds off with 20-25:1 and then 32:1 is what I use as well.. Ooh forgot to ask you about your 48mm builds did you bire the wrist pin out to 11mm or did you happen to find a wrist pin bearing to work in the rod without opening the pin hole?

@@jamesh8136 I started out with a 62cc saw with the 10mm wrist pin and skinny rod. The smaller wrist pin bearing has the same od as the larger wrist pin bearing, the hole in the rod is the same dia with all the pistons/strokes.

@@nseric1233 that's good to read on the connecting rod/ wrist pin bearing. But I might be SOL looked at the picture of my 48mill kits and they don't show the wrist pin bearing as being included. Prolly gonna need help finding where to purchase them.

@@jamesh8136 The extra 48mm cylinder I bought came with one, yours should too.

That's how much I ground out of it. Turns out it was a bit too much, I recently put a new cylinder on it with widened ports, opened up lower transfers, opened up the side of the piston and stock timing numbers, I didnt raise or lower a thing. The new ported cylinder is a bit better, the one with raised ports revved a touch higher with no load but the new one holds better rpm in the cut and starts with less pulls cold. These saws need a bigger carb and intake which I have not porting, the porting helps a little, the 365 carb/homemade intake helps a lot.

@@nseric1233 my plan is to go 0.5mm just how much base gasket is deleted.. As for bigger carb, do you know maybe venturi size on original 62cc saw, I know on 365 372 is 17.5mm

@@hardcoreplayafromthehimala4888 I raised the exhaust .5mm on my 58 with the base gasket deleted and it rips, I tried the stock height and left the gasket in on the 62 just to try it, I can always take it out later. The stock carb is 12 or 13 mm, the 365 carb is a lot bigger at 17.5. I have a chinese 365 carb which maybe a touch smaller than the husky one at 16 or so mm but still plenty big for this saw. You cant put the 365 carb on the stock intake, the throttle plate hits the metal ring in it, its that much bigger. Did you see the performance intake for these on ebay? it makes putting the 365 carb on easy. I had one and copied it. I made mine from a broom handle, thin 7/8 od metal pipe glued to the flange with a plastic 7/8 id pipe over it going into the bored out carb holder.

@@nseric1233 I saw that, also saw video of guy that make and sell it... Question about that, do you know length from cylinder intek to the 365 carb?

@@hardcoreplayafromthehimala4888 I bought the first intake that guy sold lol. They're a different color and type of plastic now which is good as mine melted, hence the homemade one. The intake is real close to 7/8 of an inch long and is 1 inch od where it passes through the carb holder. I made mine a little long then installed it and marked it flush with the carb holder/divider and cut it off. To make an intake I cut the stock intake about a 1/4 inch from the flange and stuck a 1/2 inch long 7/8 od metal pipe in it then slid 7/8 id/1" od plastic pipe over that making the whole intake a little over an inch long(both the metal pipe and the plastic pipe were the end off a broom handle). I dremeled the hole out in the divider to 1 inch. I then put it on the saw and marked the intake flush with the divider, removed it and cut it to length. I used seal all to glue the intake together, it doesnt leak plus the carb pushes forward on it so it likely wouldnt leak even without sealer. This set up works out well, the 365 carb is longer by the same amount you shorten the intake so your airfilter and top cover line right up.

64 on the .325 15 inch oregon bar. Its the exact same bar/chain set up as a husqvarna 50ish cc saw, the bar and chain came as a kit.

​@@nseric1233 one more question,do i need to replace the sprocket from 7 to 8 teeth,i bought a 15 inch bar and new 325 32T chain but when properly tightened it binds and won't rotate freely a full circle.

@@VlatkoVeselinovski You can run a 7, the 7 is better if you cut large wood, the 8 is faster in medium sized and small stuff. My joncutter5800 came with a 3/8 sprocket, make sure you have a .325 sprocket to match the .325 chain.

​@@nseric1233 mine came with 325 0.58 and i replace it with new K095 15inch 325 0.50 bar and 325 0.50 64DL chain,maybe the chain is tight and i have to runnit and try again.

It's a worth while mod, you will gain a couple hundred rpm. The inlet on the muffler needs opened up on most of them, it's smaller than the port, grind the inlet and gasket out to match the port.

Did you see my comment below about switching the plastic pipe to foam pipe insulation, its better yet. I have a stage 2 dynojet jet kit and a big hole in the top of the air box. The jet kit was the first thing I did to the bike, it makes it a bunch snappier off the bottom end. I have a danmoto pipe on it now. It's pretty loud but makes more power off the bottom than stock, the top end seams about the same. The best thing I did to the bike was the ricor shock, cut fork springs and imtiminators tho. Im not going to pull my forks apart to show the cut fork springs but its a good free mod. You cut 2 inches off the top(closely wound) end of the spring and put a longer spacer in, this increases the spring rate making it stiffer with less brake dive. 2 inches is about the max you can cut off the spring, it will coil bind if you cut too much off it. I ran with cut springs for a bit before adding imtiminators, it was quite a bit better than stock.

NSEric 123 yes I saw it and will do the same. Thank's

I really appreciate the offer but my diy intake is solid on the 5800 and there's no need to replace it. The one on the 6150 was made by leafy.

I'm interested interested the 3d printed intake

With all the stuff going on right now Chinese saws aren't cheap or worth getting at the moment, im sure the prices will come back down eventually tho. I have 200 Canadian into my joncutter 5800, that's cheaper than a good used pro saw and its just as fast as one. Im all about bang for your buck, if china saws cost 300+ dollars im going to get a used pro saw instead.

@@nseric1233 my thoughts exactly.

The 365/372 carb is what's on mine, it bolts up like the stock carb but needs some mods to make the choke and throttle work. I'd try just doing a little porting on the 45cc saw first. With less CC's you wont get as big of boost as I did with the bigger carb/intake, the stock carb is only a tiny bit too small for 45cc. I had a 45 for a bit before getting the joncutter, with just a little porting and a muffler mod it ran better than the stock 58 or 62cc Chinese saws.

I'd have to tear a saw apart to make a video showing the manifold so that's not likely to happen. What you do is cut the manifold off at the flange that goes onto the cylinder then glue a piece of 7/8 or 21mm id pipe onto it. You also have to cut out the plastic divider/carb colder so the new bigger pipe fits. The new set up ends up flush with the divider, this makes more room for the bigger carb too.

I have done so and I've used jb weld I have to redo it because the manifold broke. I didnt know I had ordered the 52cc cylinder for the 32mm stroke crank an piston hit cylinder with no base gasket and with a .024 base gasket so I used that gasket and a .016 gasket and it raised it up to give me .021 squish unfortunately it raised the cylinder to much so the carb adapter I cant bolt to the cases so it had to much vibration lasted about 3 minutes then the jb weld broke loose telling me it didnt bond well with the plastic. I will try again and do it differently to get it to hold together better.

@@rncboy2 I used a product called seal all on mine, its used to fix plastic gas tanks, it works much better than jb weld. You could turn the top of the piston down on the outer edges so you don't need to stack base gaskets, this also gives you more compression. Or you can sand the top of the cylinder down until you have enough clearance, this also bumps compression. My 5800 (54cc) cylinder worked out great as is, with no base gasket its close to .020 squish and just under 200psi of compression.

I didnt think of that but I am wondering how you sqnd the top of the cylinder dont understandhow the sandpaper would stay on the piston. It was the 52cc quad port 45mm not the 45.2mm I do have a actual 58cc 45.2mm coming didnt even pay attention to see if it was the quad or dual port. .I'll probably make another using the seal all. Had to drill holes through the carb adapter and push jb through it since it was all I had at the moment. Let set and did the same exact process drilled holes again in different spots then applied more jb weld to both sides.

I kept the 52cc 45mm cylinder. The 45.2mm cylinder finally came in I checked the squish with no base gasket it is .0295 squish was hoping closer to .020 but that's alright. I dont have anyone to cut the cylinder at the moment or i would. I did redo the intake manifold I had made. Hopefully this time it stays together. Think the ms290 carb will work pretty well with it. Also cut muffler in half and pulled baffle out and rewelded muffler back together.

m.huztl.net/Chainsaw-Chains-c3054.html?CANDB&gclid=CjwKCAiAhJTyBRAvEiwAln2qBw0CaJ-TWkevFQCwTHdMnwEHbMpxY1kPZk01qCgvLbF0bCs1n5C4AxoCVNMQAvD_BwE

Link the $80 ebay saw plz

Huy Tran www.ebay.com/itm/USPS-20-Bar-Gas-Chainsaw-Chain-Saw-45CC-Power-Cylinder-Gasoline-Engine-Petrol/193333858583?_trkparms=aid%3D888009%26algo%3DDISC.LISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225080%26meid%3D461c6c2e8fec4d7e871046f0fcde9962%26pid%3D100889%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372995172150%26itm%3D193333858583%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DDiscV3&_trksid=p2332490.c100889.m5204 It’s not exactly the same saw but I think it’s still a zenoah clone but the 45 cc version, it’s been 3 years since I got mine so they don’t sell it on eBay anymore sorry!

About 11500-12000rpm stock. They like to be a little on the rich side so maybe as low as 11000rpm.

@@nseric1233 awesome thanks

I swapped the carburetor for a bigger one, is that what you mean? If your asking about adjusting the stock carb, they're on the left of the saw in front of the on/off switch. The carbs on these are pretty sensitive to adjustments don't turn the screws far, try 1/8 of a turn at a time.

3/8lp .050 on a stihl 250 bar. On the stock saw it was great on the modded saw it wasn't quite enough chain. Since this video I switched to .325 and file it quite aggressive. It will pull regular 3/8 too but I'd stick to a 16 inch bar.

NSEric 123 Thanks you, how has the saw held up for you so far?

@@williamyoung2955 It runs better than new and nothing has broke yet. It's impressed everyone who's run it as it's as fast as any pro 50cc saw after the mods. Stock it ran great but didn't cut at 13000rpm and max out at 15000rpm like it does now.

I’m wondering the same thing myself.

The intake port is untouched, the lower part of the transfers is widened and I removed the lower half inch of the dividers in the transfers. The exhaust port was widened until it was 3ish mm from the edge of the piston and raised about the thickness of the base gasket, it is also bigger in both directions at the muffler flange. The muffler opening is enlarged to match the bigger port. I took the same amount off the edges of the piston beside the transfers as I did the top of the exhaust port. My Dremel wouldn't do the top of the transfers so I had to grind the piston instead. I took the base gasket out too. I didn't advance the timing on the 5800, I couldn't get the flywheel off, I did on the 62 by about 1/4 of the keyway, it added throttle response but not any more cutting power.

@@nseric1233 nice

After you mod them they do, stock not so much.

I read the stuff on opeforum, the guy who made the intake on my 62 replied to you there. I copied it and made one for the other china saws I have. I posted in forums that I copied someone elses work it was him lol. The biggest difference between his saw and mine are the cc's, the timberpro is 61.5 and rips, the joncutter is 54.6 and works pretty good too. A lot of the Chinese saws claim to be 58s or 62s but are 52's. It's hard to find the 61.5 but if you can its a more powerful saw when ported and the exact same weight as the smaller cc versions.

I drilled a hole through the baffle with a drill bit that just fit through the pipe that comes out of the muffler. If I had a do over I wouldn't do it, the saw is pretty loud now and it only runs a hair better than stock.

It adds 3 inches of width to the seat, the problem with the stock seat is it's too skinny so wider is better. This setup is 4 inches wider than stock where you sit. I've since switched the pvc to hardish foam tho, it's a little better yet.

@@nseric1233 thanks for the reply