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Yes, the 1450mm Mustang tires (from the version 8 era) require the wheel bay to be enlarged a little bit. I don't think I had to modify the geat channel any. Cut carefully! It is easy to cut through the top surface of the wing!

My mods are here: th-cam.com/video/TL6SLhrVwEs/w-d-xo.html

Because I never flew this plane stock, but immediately upgraded many parts of it, I wouldn't want to say if that is a good CG location in the stock format. I recommend you check out the dedicated thread of this plane on the RCGroups site. I'm sure there is old info there about what CG people have successfully used. In stock form this model has a very light wing loading so I expect it is a very forgiving plane in CG location. The generous wing chord will also generate a lot of lift (something the F6F was known for) further easing any CG sensitivities. Bottom line, if your a moderately experience RC pilot with a little warbird experience, a little variance in CG should not trouble you in the least.

@@Chris-kt8rw Thanks for the response. I'll do a little research on rcgroups and see if there's anything there. But can I assume you are flying your modified version in the recommended 70-75mm range?

@@bill72pa Ok, because you asked. ;) I put a 3300 4s battery in mine and balanced it inverted, wheels up and my CG is right at 75mm. With a bigger 4000 mah battery I think that CG moves forward a little to maybe 73mm. I will caveat those measurements however by saying I use Robart rubber wheels that are a lot heavier than stock wheels and I also have oleo struts so there is much more weight (when gear are up) that is behind the CG mark than a stock plane would have. In flight, mine flies well, but is a bit tail heavy. I prefer that because it allows me to land a little slower than a forward CG would. I think with a stock plane running the recommended battery size that 70mm would be a good starting CG.

@@Chris-kt8rw good info. Thanks so much.

The spinner is the PZ stock piece. I cut two slots in it to for the Dynam 3 blade prop. I think it is a 13x7x3.

@@Chris-kt8rw thanks Chris! I bet you get this question a lot so I appreciate the response!

Thank you for the kind words. This plane certainly deserves better components (mostly retracts) than it got. When my 1400mm FMS Hellcat was still flying I still preferred the Dynam.

That's good info for folks still wanting this plane! Thanks for that and good luck and fair skies.

The plastic insert the retract screws into had to have a lot of cutting and shaving to remove enough material to get these new units to sit flush. My plane was in kit form when I got it so never had stock electronics. I added generic Hobby King 9 gram servos to open and close the gear doors. It took a little effort to get the wire push rod arm shaped correctly. I eventually deleted those servos and now close the doors with a stretchy elastic cord the gear leg pulls shut.

Hi Chris, thank you for your kind reply, my P-40 was a PNP (very bad accessories). Are you satisfied with these FMS?, any problems during landings until now?.

The FMS units have held up very well. In 2 years they have been completely reliable. They do have a slight amount of slop in the gear leg but it hasn't been a problem.

Whiskey Jet, I strongly suggest you upgrade the stock Dynam ESC, both because your 4000mah battery is at the limit of the 40amp ESC's capabilities and that Dynam ESC's are low quality. Will it work? Yes, for a bit, before it eventually fails. Dynam ESCs should be used only with Dynam motors but as soon as you upgrade one part, replace the other too. The 40 amp limit is designed for the recommended 2200 to 3000 mah batteries. A 4000mah battery will push more amps and will stress the ESC at high throttle. Eventually the low quality Dynam ESC will fail. A 50 amp ESC provides some amp headroom and 60 amp is even better. Another issue with some Dynam ESCs is a engine stuttering problem they show. Again, some do it, some don't. There have been reports that these ESCs don't work well with other brand motors. My advice is fly it stock and try to stick to the recommended battery sizes. If you want to fly a 4000mah, try not to go to high throttle very much. A few short bursts won't hurt it but a 4 minute flight at max might.

Good to know, thank you so much for the reply Chris.

joshhahn1380 That is the Dynam 13x7x3 prop and the stock Parkzone spinner. The spinner needs to be converted to a 3-bladed unit by having 2 blade holes cut into it but that's easily done if you are careful. A word of caution: the stock Parkzone motor and ESC (BL15 950KV and 30 amp) are not powerful enough to swing this Dynam prop. I use a Hobby King G15 710kv motor and at least a 40 amp ESC on 11.1volt (3s) for respectable performance.

Chris Kenney thanks

Frank's Fly Time RC Agreed, Dynam retracts and struts aren't up to the task except if you can grease your landings every time. As far as I can remember, the retracts were not hard to fit to the plane; minor fitting at worst. To run scale sized wheels however required the wheel bay to be opened up a bit more, so I tried to make those cuts as neat and professional as possible.

Chris Kenney Thanks Chris. I was curious and wanted to find out before buying a set.

K-QUAD RC Mine loves 4s 4000 batteries. Even with a bigger motor and a crash proofing kit mine flies great with the 400 gram 4s 4000 packs.

yours flies super great job well done,,i will change out the servos to the emax metal 9gm

K-QUAD RC Thanks! Did you get the version 2? It comes with factory installed flaps. I hope you like the other vids.

oh yes iam wondering why i got flaps,,you just answered that ,,mine came today,,i was always caution with dynam but watching your videos and looking at the plane iam happy

K-QUAD RC Dynam foam is excellent; the electronics not so much. You may eventually decide to upgrade the motor and ESC like I did.

yes iam going to now that i watched you,,lol

Ben Miz That is my least prefered runway direction. I almost never fly that way now. With the mod the prop has more of a roar. The amps and watts go up too and it is harder on my batteries. I still use the mod now but go with the smallest zip ties I have, about 1mm thick. The speed is still impressive, batteries are puffing less and flight times are longer.

rossimessi1 There is a definite difference between the 1400 and 1100mm. The bigger one is a lot heavier, handles wind much better, has more presence and handles more like a real plane; less toy like. The little ones are better for those with small transport vehicles, limited flying space, smaller batteries. Is the bigger one worth it? Yes, IF you have a large enough area to fly it, larger 4s (3000-5000 mah) batteries and more technical skills, because it is more intricate. It needs smooth landings too or you'll destroy your landing gear. Neither size is ideal on grass.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Been watching videos of the FMS1400 on grass (rcinformer and others). Seems to cope alright. Though that is the V4 with suspension retracts. What would you say is the max wind you'd take the 1100 up in? It's nearly always windy here. thanks

rossimessi1 over 15-20 mph would be problematic I think. the larger one will land on grass, if it is manicured and you grease it every time.

sorry, 11x6x3

Multirotor Go Yes. it's found at Walmart and all hardware stores

It sounds like you didn't have enough speed built up before applying elevator to yank it off the ground. Let it get fast on the ground first. Keep it straight down the runway and build throttle to at least 3\4 . Maybe try 1\2 flaps on take off too to give more lift.

And for the 2200 bat placement, you said flush to the front of the wood tray? The front would be all the way froward right?

Yes, just not overhanging the front, into the nose cavity. Best way to check CG (center of gravity) is put the battery in, retract the gear into the wing and balance upside down at the spot called out in the manual. 45-50mm from the front of the wing, where the color changes from white to orange.

Slide the battery forwards or back until the plane balances on two fingers, placed on the CG points on the wings.

I put the 2200 mah 3 cell battery forward on the wood tray so the front of the battery is flush with the front of the wood tray. I did not push the battery into the motor compartment. This T-28 balloons "nose up" if you deploy flaps when the speed is too high. I still use about a 3 percent down elevator mix on full flaps.

Yes, I never even tried my 580 kv on 5s. There were too many reports of burn ups.

Thanks Charles, and thanks for the sub!

If you protect the bottom of the plane with packing tape, the leading edge of the wings too, it should belly land great. You are correct; I would definitely look for a good 2 blade prop for longevity. The Parkzone Extra 300 prop would be a good choice. Take the tail wheel off it you do. There is no need to risk breaking it.

Thanks for the info. Happy landings.

I use FRSKY Taranis and at full flap deflection I have 5% down elevator mixed. I think it is half that at half flaps.

I don't have any other small Trojans so I can't comment on that. The eflite will be more expensive, but you get the AS3X receiver. I recommend you check RCGroups threads on this one, the eflite, Dynam and Durafly. I think this one is a great flier and value.

This one fits the bill. Check out RCGroups threads on the different T-28s in thus size range: Eleven Hobby, Dynam, Durafly, Parkzone, eflite

The motor is not stock for this plane. It is the FMS PAEP 4258 550kv motor from their F3A Olympus airplane. In stock form, this Mustang is a 4 cell plane. The upgrade motor is designed for 5-6 cell batteries. I used a 5 cell in this video.

That's 93 amps static load. It'll be less that that in the air.