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Thank you, i appreciate that! As far as something to hold the stones in place goes, there are a few considerations: Firstly there is water all over the place, this means the angle iron would need to either be treated or be made from stainless steel or aluminium to prevent rust, not a deal breaker. Also the stones come in a number of thicknesses and sizes, this would require some sort of adjustability and a very low profile. A number of adjustable holders and sink bridges are available for this purpose. The way I get around all of this is to place a wet dishcloth under the stones if they are moving. Thanks again!

Thanks for your thoughts! Let me start by saying that I have been freehand sharpening for decades and have never until very recently used a guide of any sort. This system came about as a result of obsession and gives instant and unlimited adjustability which I like (probably not necessary at all but gives me piece of mind). Yes twisting the wrist is to avoid the changing of angle if not being perpendicular to the guide as with a wedge or other device. Usually once I have the angle I will adjust my grip to have a fingertip touch the stone, knowing how the knife feels in my hand this gives reasonably accurate repeatability. I do not use wedges as I do not have anything to accurately cut them, also they are another loose piece I do not need. I would however advise new sharpeners to use a guide of any sort to help learn what different angles look and feel like, it will shorten their learning curve. It is also very much worth pointing out that within reason, the exact angle really doesn't make that much difference but, the consistency of that angle is somewhat critical. I will sometimes check the manufacturers website for their angle and then make a decision on what to do based on that and the condition of the knife when I received it from the customer. Your system seems to make sense, it obviously works for you. Hopefully it will give someone else an idea or help them on their journey. It is fun coming up with ideas and trying them out, you never know where it leads! Have fun and stay sharp!

​@MaritimeSharpening Thank you for your kind answer! Indeed had in mind to share my thoughts for other viewers too, because I instantly recognized your experienced hand movements. I didn't sharpened many knifes, maybe 25-30 times, all personal knifes, soft/medium hard steel.... so I'm still learning. Just recently learned that a rough stone (600) will cause chipping on AUS8 steel. I thined out the blade at the last half inch behind the edge, and may have grinded too aggresive... Wondered why I don't get a burr, till I looked under the microscope. So, now I know to use grits above 1000. Also had my thoughts on the optimal height of the working bench, and found out that with it at ellbow height (lower before) I have the most consistent bevels. And yes, the specific bevel angle is less important than consistancy in grinding. Happy sharpening! 😀

@@lone-wolf-1 You are correct with regard the height of the stones, body mechanics dictate that elbow height will give the least tendency to role the blade as it moves away and toward you. Another important consideration is where your fingers are placed on the blade, when the blade is flat on the stone working the big bevel you will remove more steel where your fingers are so, higher up will remove material closer to the shinogi line and lower down will remove more closer to the primary bevel. But also, when working your primary bevel, the further away from the edge you place your fingers, the more leverage they will have and the more difficult it will be to keep a consistent angle. regarding thinning and grit size with harder steels. It is definitely possible to over thin a blade, the thinner it is the less support the steel has. You can still use lower grits but you will need to use less pressure. I imagine you had thinned this down to Zero or very close? At this point you should raise the blade to 15 - 20 degrees and add a small primary bevel or microbevel. This should return some stability and strength to the edge. If it is too thin or thinned to an apex you will almost certainly chip the blade in normal use, even if it is only micro chipping. Keep on sharpening stuff, its a very interesting journey that sets you on a mad quest for ever sharper blades, it could drive you insane! Have fun with it!

@@MaritimeSharpening​​⁠. On this particular knife I tried first time sharpening it at a compound bevel from about 11-13 degrees at the tip to 18-20 degrees at the heel for heavier tasks, plus 60-40% ratio. I aimed for a convex edge and rolled pretty aggressive the right side transition towards the heel with 600 grit, that's why I got micro chipping only at the heel. Need to adjust my finger pressure, because now I realized it‘s higher near the heel because of less leverage… I corrected with 3000, skipped 5000 because of lazyness to grab another stone, and finished with 8000. Stropped with 3 micron Siliciumcarbide on leather and just yesterday achieved my first hair whittling edge! Not quite clean, but still surprizing. Just recently started to use a 5x magnification stereo microscope and it's a game changer! I was so happy with my progress, allthough it was this sharp only on the front half. So, there is still lots of room for even sharper. It's very addictive! But I think, I will stop the strive to perfection where it gets unpractical. There is a too sharp for the kitchen border line. Now I need to hide most knifes from visitors, nobody is used to razor blades in the kitchen, and they cut on marble and glass and bang the edge on everything. Once I was coming home and followed the blood drops on the floor. My 24 y.o. son: „I didn't expect your pocket knife to be THIS SHARP!!“ I said: „Oh, how many times I warned you, ALL my knifes are razor sharp.“😏 As a reminder I still have the bandage (since 5 years ago) wich is put on the finger of his duplicated hand cast in plaster, mounted on a marble socket. 😑 And I think, I will not buy knifes with super steels (AUS-8 is my hardest) and better stones (I use amazon 20 bucks set) for ultimate sharpness… But still dream about VG-10, white/blue paper steel, SG2, D2 ….and high carbon steel… But that's how addicts talk… we'll see…😅… because some times I'm sad because I don't have something to sharpen… Very first sharp blade I sharpened as a 14-year old on a tiny nail clipper blade. I tested it on my young mustache, and had to start shaving afterwards to get rid of the gap…😅 „Dad, can you please teach me how to shave?“😂Now I‘m 57 and the fascination of sharpening kicks in again.

Thank you kindly!