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I'm glad you got something out of it... best wishes!

me too... such a great class!

Sorry...for the delayed response... YES! As long as the hander does not cross the line..the dog can, but the handler can not.. good luck!

@@TeachersPetK9 Thank you SO MUCH! ❤️

The table is not alive until the closing

Yes, the table is not "live" until after the opening..once the horn or whistle blows to indicate the closing has begun, there is no penalty for touching the table.

I'm glad it was helpful and I've received feedback about the music before... in the future, I will not include a back track...good luck!

Great question! There is a specified finish obstacle for the course and you must cross that finish line to stop the clock. You will receive a full point off your final score for every second you are over your course time. So if the time allotted for the course expires, you will no longer receive points for the game for completing obstcles after that time has expired but must cross that line to stop the clock to avoid continued points being deducted from the points you were able to accumulate during regulation time.

Thank you so much! Good luck on the course!

Thank you. I hope you feel confident enough to enter a FAST event and good luck! Just pick the best route for your dog that is well within your skill set. Don't worry about the points... plan your entry into the gamble and you will do just fine! Last tip.. plan ahead and don't get greedy earning points... a Q is a Q and you don't want to hear that buzzer while on the course... get it done and out you go...

I will work on it... What is confusing about T2B? My guess, it's how teams earn points. To get you started... there is a max time that dogs must complete the course. it is an open competition, which means that novice, open, excellent and masters all run and compete on the same course. Refusals are not called so if a dog misses the weaves, they get two more tries to enter, or if this miss a jump, they can go back and take it as long as they did not take an off course obstacle. Teams earn points based on a scale set by the fastest dog. Everyone will earn points if they completed the course without dropping a bar or going off course. If you are the top dog, you get 10 points. If your time is within 10% if the fastest time, you get 9 points. 20%- 8 points.. 30%-7 points..etc You earn your title once you have 15 q's AND at least 100 accumulated points. I can see where this could be confusing so a video would be a good idea... thanks for the suggestion.. Good Luck!!!!!

Great point... You are right.. the harness is ineffective if it is not fitted properly..

I'm so happy to hear that... You will find that her responsiveness to your voice will become an automatic reflex.. wonderful when you need to get her attention... good for you!

You are welcome! Good luck to you!

Yes, the only difference is that you can take the Gamble or Jackpot anytime during the run, the obstacle points are 1-10 as determined by the judge and once obstacles 2-10 are completed, you don’t earn those points twice is you complete them a second time… I think in CPE you can earn them twice and take back to back.. in AKC you can not. If you fail to complete an obstacle in AKC, you can re attempt it for points but you can not make that attempt back to back, meaning, if your dog failed to hit the contact on the A Frame, you can’t immediately reattempt the A Frame, you must do another obstacle before reapproaching the A Frame… good luck! I find that people experienced in CPE Jackpot do very well in this event

@@TeachersPetK9 Yes. During non-traditional Jackpot you can sometimes do the gamble at any time, it depends on the judge (Traditional you must wait for the first buzzer). Obstacles can be taken back-to-back as long as it is safe to do so and can be done twice. Contacts are always worth 5 and sometime combos are 5 as well, Tunnels and other selected obstacles are 3 points, single jumps are 1 point. Gambles are usually worth 20 points but in Non-traditional where all levels compete, there are usually several gamble opportunities some worth 15 points.

If your dog miss one of the send obstacles but continue to second .. do I re try the whole send bonus ( two obstacles) or do I need to do any other obstacle before second attempt of two send obstacles?

I"m confident you will do great! Look for the best flow for your dog to initiate the distance challenge and strategize to include the higher point obstacles, 7-8-9 if possible. Good luck and let me know how you do.

Yes..but just for clarity. You must start on the designated starting point, which can be an obstacle; but , sometimes can be a line between two designated points in which the clock starts as soon as you cross the plane. And, of course, there is a designated ending. Between the start and the finish, yes, you choose your own path with the exception of the Send Bonus sequence.... you will need to complete the challenge in the sequence designated by the judge.

@@TeachersPetK9 perfect, thank you very much!

@@katherineweppler821 , you are welcome! Just to make sure.. the time starts when your DOG crosses the start line or start obstacle... you can cross the line if you choose to do a lead out... same rule applies for lead outs.. Good Luck!

I just checked on my end and the sound is fine on my end...mmmmmm???? Here is the link..try connecting using this by copying and pasting to your url.. .th-cam.com/video/Ovpum5AuW4k/w-d-xo.html

So sorry this was hard for you to see, great suggestion and something I will keep in mind for the future. Thank you for your feedback.

Thank you! I hope you find it effective with your pup. The boxer I use for demonstration was incredibly reactive towards other dogs. She was a rescue at 2 years and I have no idea her history but I tried many other tools to "control" her. It was frustrating for her and me and there were a couple times she broke free from me, charging another dog. I tried the Freedom Harness and it was like "butter". She responded with the slightest tug. She just needed redirection and she responded quite nicely to the front loading harness... I would redirect and reward and go in the opposite direction. Because she was so reactive, we needed both lines to control her at first, but after some training and conditioning, she did fantastic with just the front clip. Good luck!

I'm glad you found it helpful. Someone asked me how to play and thought I could find her something on TH-cam and realized there was very little. Good luck and have fun out there!

@@TeachersPetK9 Yea there doesn't seem to be much out there.

Yes, but read the course map carefully. Some judges include a "two part obstacle", part A and Part B. They will make this clear in the briefing and you will see that indication in the map. You must complete both parts of the obstacles before attempting another Red. If the two parts were jumps, even if you drop the first bar of that combo, you must complete Parts A and B before moving on.. Another interesting piece is that IF you are attempting a jump between Red, which is not a combo, and you drop that bar, you will receive Zero points for that attempt and you will then go to your next Red jump. If this attempt was after your 3rd Red, then you will get a Zero for that colored obstacle and proceed to #2 to complete the second part of Jumpers. I think of it this way.... RED jump, Numbered obstacle, Red Jump, Numbered Obstacle, Red Jump, Numbered Obstacle..then the course, Part 2 starting with 2. If my third Numbered Obstacles was 2..follow the rules... then start the course starting with 2.. this means you would complete the first part with #2..then start the second part starting with #2..you would do #2 back to back... 1st Red Jump.. One Numbered Obstacle. 2nd Red Jump the ONE numbered obstacles... Last 3rd Red Jump, then your last numbered obstacle.. Your score will be the total value of your numbered obstacles plus 3. Last technical piece.. IF you drop a Red Bar... then you have that 4th Red Jump that will take the place of the dropped Red Bar... if you dropped the 2nd Red bar, than find a replacement Red to take the place of the one you dropped...

Yes, but this is just the beginning. This focuses on marking a behavior we like and how to do so with food or play. Here is another video that breaks it down a little more specifically. th-cam.com/video/3Z40IZLTGqo/w-d-xo.html. I hope this helps clarify.

Thank you Doug. I always try to learn from others, share what we know, ask questions, and support each other's work. You are always welcome to share and I'm sure I can learn from you as well. Where are you located?

@@TeachersPetK9 Good morning. Thank you! I am in Ma.I think you are in IL? Quite a distance from each other!

@@DougZaga , I'm actually in Santa Monica, CA...we are on opposite sides of the country! Wish you much success and you continue to have a positive impact on how humans relate to their human companions.

@@TeachersPetK9 beautiful area. I wish you all the same too. Thank you and have a great day!

Yes, I find that most people have a very difficult time managing both leashes. But, with some dogs who are reactive, it can be a good tool IF, the handler is well trained on how to apply appropriate pressure to redirect the dog. For most, having the leash on the front is sufficient.

Thanks Doug... enjoy hearing from other trainers who understand the value of tapping into the dog's play drive to build motivation to learn.

Couldn't agree more. What I find challenging is that the owners tend to want to have the dog immediately do "obedience" work and are unwilling or uninterested in building that relationship of trust... Either they don't understand the long term benefits or have a hard time connecting to the dog through play. Glad you are out there Doug..sounds like you are doing great work.

here is a link to another video where I'm working with dogs who are reactive. th-cam.com/video/PJ_wrdoqaR8/w-d-xo.html Gracie, the boxer shown in the video was highly reactive, charging a sleeping small dog who was under a cafe table at a community event. There needs to be work invested in getting the dog into a calm state of mind before you can reach the point where your dog will accept a harness, a muzzle, or for some, just the clip of a leash. Tell me more what you are struggling with and I may have a few resources for you. Best to you.

Please keep me posted on your progress. The boxer that is in the video was highly reactive towards other dogs and the freedom harness was the ticket for me to redirect her with little tension and conflict. It worked like a charm. Seems like your pup loves it but just needs to learn to settle. Good luck!

I did not include a very important rule for the opening sequence, what if you drop or fail to complete a red/color combo.... You need three reds.. if you drop a red, no penalty, you need to find another red that you have not used and continue as if nothing happened. However, If you drop a color after the red, you get a zero for that combo sequence. If you are on your third red, you get a zero for that 3rd attempt and you can begin your closing run. If you are on your 1st or 2nd Red Jump, you will be scored for a Red (1) but a zero for the colored obstacle and you go immediately to next required red jump and continue with your opening until done. Please let me know if this is unclear and I will revise the video to include this technical but important piece. On another note, if you are in your closing sequence, attempting 2-7 obstacles... if you drop a bar or the judge calls you out..go to the table to stop the clock. You may have accumulated enough points up to that point to still qualify for your level. Good Luck!

@@TeachersPetK9 My dog did it awesome today! first snooker and so perfect! thanks for your video!

@@allaosypenko3004 , YAY!!!!!! I am so proud of you and your pup! Snooker is a complicated and challenging game since there are so many options and ways for your pup to take a wrong obstacle. Your performance demonstrates the hard work you have invested in your team. I wish you well as you continue your agility adventures.

43 points in 24 sec, level 1

@@allaosypenko3004 , That is a very impressive showing, especially for a Level 1 competitor...and with time to spare!. You know that a perfect score is 51 right? Congratulations! What an awesome way to begin...

I have used the harness for both of my dogs. Harnesses should be used as a training tool, never a way to walk a dog indefinitely. The goal is to have a dog walk next to you in pace and this harness does a great job training a dog to do just that.

Janet, the only thing I can think of is to check to see if your software is updated on your computer... From my end, it is working just fine. I'm afraid I don't know why it is not working for you... keep me posted on your progress.

Skip, I'm sorry you are unable to hear the video. My guess is that the audio player between computers is not compatible in some fashion since on my end I'm hearing it just fine. I have received this complaint before and unfortunately, I don't know how to get around this problem.

No worries. Seems to work today. One would figure audio works or it doesn't. Just having one channel (was my guess) and not the other seemed odd. Who knows? But it is working and gave it a thumbs up. Thanks I will try the harness on my dogs.

Without seeing your dog in action it would be difficult to give you the best response but I can share with my experience working with difficult cases. First of all, how old is your dog? Have you done leash pressure work with your dog? Here is a link regarding Leash Pressure Work that may be helpful. th-cam.com/video/SCnHoqiNAY0/w-d-xo.html&spfreload=10 The key ingredient is to get your dog to walk with you rather than oppose you ... result is trying to escape the harness. The beauty of the freedom harness is the clip on the front! That's your magical ingredient. Harnesses by nature invite pulling or increases your dog's desire to pull or drive forward. The clip in the front redirects your dog by knocking them off balance. Once redirected, you reward them and there you go. However, if your pup is fighting you and escaping the harness, just put a collar on that fits a little better, you should be able to put at least two fingers between the neck and collar. Let me know if this adequately addressing your concerns. By knowing more, maybe I can provide a more appropriate response.

No. I've picked up my training techniques from many different sources. Studying different trainers and behaviorists. My strongest influences would be Michael Ellis, Tylor Muto, Grisha Stewart, Susan Garrett, Sophia Yin, Patricia McConnell, to name just a few. Here is a video link to my work with the Visla. Again, it's important to lay a strong foundation with one dog before moving to two dogs. As a handler, you need to have more value than the other dog. Your relationship with the dog needs to be strong enough to overcome distractions they may encounter in the walk. th-cam.com/video/KLN9DcGpdko/w-d-xo.html Good Luck and let me know how it goes.

Jesus, it is difficult to adequately address your question without knowing specifically how your dogs are responding. In short, with some training, the dogs respond quickly with just the clip on the front which would allow you to handle two dog leads. The successful transition to a Freedom Harness was immediate with my dog Gracie, the one featured in the video. She only needed the clip on the front to maintain control. However, the concern I have, again, not knowing your dogs, is that you give up some head control. If you are dealing with dogs who are reactive; meaning, they redirect their frustration on each other or you as their handler, then you will need to establish some ground rules on the walk before moving directly to the freedom harness. I am sending a link to a video showing me working with two dogs. th-cam.com/video/AbdqUy2UeXM/w-d-xo.html I recommend that you work with each dog individually first. Make sure it is clear to the dog what you expect from them on the walk and you will need to be very consistent in enforcing those expectations. The Freedom Harness works very well in doing just that because you have control on their movement forward by redirecting them with that front clip. Remember opposition reflex is also at play here. The more you pull back, the more they will drive forward so you want to avoid having the clip on the top used exclusively. I hope this helps.

Kevin, it is really difficult to give you advice for your particular situation without meeting your dog. Questions would be; 1) Does your dog lunge, growl, spin and if she has escaped, has she tried to bite the other dog? 2) Is she reactive towards all dogs, or just some? 3) How old is she? What I can share with you from my many years working with reactive dogs is that you need to do several things. In general, it really helps if you can develop a strong foundation in engagement training. Engagement training strengthens your dog's ability to focus on you which will in turn allow you to REDIRECT your dog's attention towards you rather than the distraction. The second piece is you need to have control of the dog's head and any harness will not allow you to effectively do that. A dominant dog collar can be afective but I would recommend finding a trainer who specializes in working with reactive dogs. There are several tools that will allow you to do that. I would NOT recommend a halti harness. Finally, you need to work on desensitizing your dog's reactivity. Again there are several methods and tools but you would need to work with a trainer to develop your skills using them. Last piece of advice, beware of someone who suggests using a shock collar to punish the behavior. Reactive dogs can be very tricky if they are not handled the right way with an experienced dog trainer. I really hope this helps.

TeachersPetK9 I do as well, I would say thank u for ur reply and for ur advice I will try seek some help in near feature and yeah not always does she barks but she goes kinda nuts have never tend to bite or anything so it’s kinda strange why she does get up to a lvl where she is very heated ( not angry) just extremely tense and have hard time communicating with the opposite dog

It could be that she is just very excited when she sees another dog. Either way, if you can really work on your ability to redirect your dogs attention.. but this work needs to be done without distractions first. You can work with food, or tug but whatever you do, it has to become a high value activity between you and her. Michael Ellis, Tyler Muto are two trainers I've learned a great deal from. Check out their videos as well. Good Luck! and keep me posted on how it is going.