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It’s on the shelf at the moment, I am erring towards injectors to be honest, most of the symptoms lean that way!

If the compressor has overheated then it can (and probably will) need a rebuild. You can buy a kit online that has all the parts to rebuild it. However, you can just buy a used one for about the same cost! Worth taking a look at the valve block behind the wheel arch liner as they are prone to leaking and will drop one or both of the front bags over time.

@@garejmali547 thank you I will check that valve block...

New compressor and the air suspension system won't go into lock out mode anymore, very common failure, either rebuild yours or buy a 2nd hand/rebuilt one, they're easy to rebuild and take apart.

@@ThatBritishGuy we disconnected air suspension ECU and manualy bricked the wires so we can lift it every 2 3 days without PC... and it still goes down guess its the valve block front or air bag... both ordered will be at my door b4 Christmas hope it will solve the issue

After a bit of struggling and grunting, I just put the top nut on the shock absorber and inflated the bag, it pushed itself over the o rings. It is possible to carefully push the rings into the bottom of the bag with a blunt tool. Unless we had a dodgy bag, I don’t know if it is possible to just pull the bag over the rings… unless you’re built like a tank!

It doesn’t have them as it is a lower spec SE, it has halogen headlamps that don’t require the washers! Our newer L322 does have them as it has Xenon headlamps. 👍

I could have but the plastic casing was broken on the old one so it needed replacing really.

That’s a very good point! She has proper fuel pipe clips on there now, still doesn’t run properly though.

@@garejmali547 I think your fuel lines are blocked!!

I’ll plug in the diagnostics and check all that this morning, see how it all compares. In all honesty, I’ve changed the fuel pumps, fuel filter and maf sensor so they should all be ok. It seems to start and run better with the maf unplugged but that makes her smoke a bit. Maf plugged in makes less smoke but struggles to start and likes to go into limp mode as soon as it’s under load. 👍

I have one here to go underneath, delivered today! So that’s next on the menu, it’s running well (you can hear it) but it isn’t very expensive so better changed.

The pump is running well, not the car! Lol.

I’m going to double check anything before firing the parts cannon off on Claude, I’m not 100% sure it isn’t a couple of dodgy injectors, or an injector wiring harness. Plenty to look at, I’m sure it won’t be too dramatic.

@garejmali547 Yep that's probably a sensible idea! I'll keep tinkering with mine and if I have any joy I'll report back to you. Best of luck dude

@@muyakimani1622good luck, hopefully we can both sort this out 👍

If I remember rightly (it’s been a while) both ends of the box were capped off with plates and the back plate was bonded to the door skin, then after the skin was folded back over the bottom, the whole thing was seam sealed. Without over engineering it, I think that’s about as good as it can be?

I think he’s saying, the water that gets in through the likes of window runners, (this is how the problem occurs to start with) can’t get out, no drain holes, what size box section is it you used?

If you buy the correct channel for the door repair, as I have done, the channel has vents built in so that it can drain as the originals should. There is a flat back piece which goes against the skin and a box section as original attached to it, with the built in drain channels. If done correctly and sealed to prevent steel contact against the aluminium skin, the repair should be as original or better. I would not use square box section as here , see "Paintman Panels - Land rover Series Bottom door repair section".

I’ve replaced the pipe but haven’t driven it yet, been a bit busy with the other stuff! Hopefully it will help with the performance a bit and reduce the black smoke! I’ll have a blast in it tomorrow and update! 👍

I had a Vito with an OM646 in it, that made it to 250k miles before the injectors fell out and the floor rotted away.

“In and out, ten times fast!” I don’t know if it works on the facelifted version, I’ll have to check!

The tyres are a bit poor, I may look for another (OE) set in silver and then refurb these… or I may just do them one at a time. Or… maybe I could buy another L322 and risk a beating and/or divorce lol.

Cheers, they’re all good fun eh? I’ll be interested in the difference between the 3.6 and 4.4 as that’s our next step, just not right now otherwise I might need medical help!

Do t spend money mines is a £1000 the wheels are worth that the suspension cost over a grand tow bar the lot but it has tinted windows new discs new air bags on the rear come and get it

We’re always interested in new projects and I’ve grown to like the Rangerover.

If it goes pop then we’ll just get a TDV8, 4.2SC or something, not exactly expensive at the moment are they! With a range rover it’s about smiles per gallon while it lasts! In all honesty, what is built well these days?

@@garejmali547 total agree my 2023 range rover has been back in garage more than I've driven it definatley won't buy again have had every model since 1970s just too unreliable not sure what to replace with tbh

Keep the trans in sport mode under 60 mph and it keeps the torque converter from locking/slipping - one of the biggest issues with the transmission. My TD6 has had over 425k hard km’s and is still going strong. That said, the TDV8 is a better towing vehicle and a real joy to drive. See the Harry’s Garage vid with Jeremy Clarckson on the best RR ever

@@Steve_MFr a td6 wont even pull a chug nut out your ass choclate transmission had every model of range rover sine 1970s till 2023 never again always main dealer serviced totally useless

Hmm, what should I be doing with the Rangey? I hadn’t really planned on making much out of it other than lightly restoring it and using it as a replacement for the Disco! Im always up for a challenge, if I was doing a project L332 it would probably be a V8 SC though… which could be considered. 🤔

If it is any consolation, it does my head in! I’ll make a conscious effort 👍

We need to get this Defender finished, then we’ll put some time into the Range Rover. We’re not going crazy with it, just making it well again, with a couple of nice touches added here and there.

I think we are going to do a light restoration, tweak a few bits and roll with it. Always open to suggestions but we have to consider it is mainly for towing our recovery trailer so it needs to be usable!

Will do, hopefully have something to put together later on today!

No ULEZ worries over here, it’s very rural and over an hours drive to the nearest city!

@@garejmali547 in tbat case its a bargain so much car but very expensive on insurance on fuel round where my area in London. Good luck hope it serves you well.

Just need to sort the aircon out and the window things will be history! A 4.4 TDV8 will hopefully be the next one for us, not yet though.

Thanks, I’m pretty sure there is room for a few more videos from it!

Thanks for the positive comment! It’s not really possible to eliminate the oxidisation, it’s inherent with Landrover lol. In my experience the best you can do is using a dual action sander or similar, try to remove as much as is possible. If it has all gone then polish the area with a fine grit pad before applying sealer/primer/paint. If it isn’t possible to remove all the oxidisation then just get as much as possible and use some epoxy to build up the surface and try to seal it. Without oxygen it will slow the process a little. Definitely one of the Defenders Achilles heels!

Thank you, it is hard work and a constant challenge! We have so many more projects lined up but just need to get this defender done for now.

Constructive input always welcome, thanks. 🙂

2mm steel is good for repairs… you can use 3mm however usually when you over strengthen one area you will expose another weak spot.