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You have two choices: 1. Keep your existing time-based scene and over-rule it with a timer that takes priority over it. Set up the timer to over-ride the lights’ output to 0% between the hours that you want the light to be off. 2. The option I would use… add a second option to your existing time-based scene and nude the hours you do not want the light to come on. E.g. 23.00-06.00. Set the our out for the light during these hours to 0%. So the light will be triggered, but it won’t actually turn on.

Thank you!

Yes, you can. But remember that the switch will always over-ride the PIR. See my other videos to see how they’re configured.

Thank you!

Apologies! This comment slipped by me un-noticed and I no longer have the device as it was just on loan.

It’s not possible to control colour changes, no. The device seems to be primarily designed for enabling scenes or devices in on/off states. You could set the Latching back to the factory settings and use repeated voice commands to start and stop the RB device ports in order to dim ip and down. But, to be honest, I think that will drive you crazy. You’re better off using it to simply turn devices on or off.

@@CasamBee thanks :)

You make a good point there with the sensor relay switching regularly. My thinking is/was just that it’s simply easier to control the linger time from a single source rather than mix two sources. For example, you could set the sensor relay to 15 seconds and then set Casambi to 15 seconds. That would give you 30 seconds linger but you just need to remember to add 15 to whatever value you set on the Casambi side. And, of course, you could set the Casambi side to 1 second and fully control the linger time from the relay sensor (potentiometer). Just use whichever method suits you best - there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way.

Is there a difference in activation time on detection between a CBU-TED used as a sensor and say the CBU-CEFL Casambi sensor due to the TED being powered up? Hope that makes sense…

@@petersquire5517 I guess there might be from an electrical/electronics point of view, but nothing you’d notice in practice. A TED powers on pretty much instantly.

This may seem like a dumb question, but how do you configure a CBU-CEFL presence sensor to only turn a scene on when it is dark?

@@petersquire5517 A good question! Look for my video about controlling my porch light with a presence sensor. I don’t remember the video name, sorry. In short: first create a basic scene with the light(s) dimmed to 100%. Then create a time-based scene which only turns on the basic scene during sunset and sunrise. Then assign that time-based scene to your presence sensor as ‘presence only’.

Try controlling the fan directly using the CBU-Relay on the Luminaires page. Is the relay in a position where you would be able to hear it click on/off? If it is and you can’t hear it, then it’s likely the relay at fault. If you can hear it click but the fan doesn’t spin, then your fan’s likely at fault - or the wiring connected to it. I’d really need to see your current switch configuration to comment more.

Many thanks for your response and its as I expected. Yes Relay clicks on demand so I think thats working as for fan it has a strange control wire connected to relay so will get the electrician back as they installed it. Just wanted to be half sure it’s not the Casambi kit or my Scene… before I pointed the finger. Its under warranty. :-)

A very good question! And one that people get mixed up… In the lighting control industry, a presence sensor is a sensor that can detect motion and light. Whereas a motion sensor can only detect movement. It can’t be used to detect light too. And, admittedly, the tiny clear sensor in one of these latest videos was actually just a motion sensor but I might have referred to it as a presence sensor - I’m just so used to it.

That’s right. If the presence scene was pressed again, then your light comes on and the fan - and it’ll stay on until you turn them off. If you pressed the absence scene again (when everything was already off), then your light would stay turned off and the fan would spin for 20 mins (or whatever time you’ve set) before it eventually turned off by itself.

@@CasamBee So is there a way for the light not to go off in that use case to ensure user presses rocker in alternate direction to turn light off hence confirming Absence scene? Tks

@@marktime61 not really, no. This is because they’re not true latching switches (they’re technically push buttons). You could edit the ‘off’ animation so that it actually included x seconds of the light being on before it’s then turned off and the fan staying on for a while. But even that would still require pushing the correct (on) button again after a certain amount of time to keep the light on.

@@CasamBee Thanks. In practice its not really an issue I’ve realised as the fan is on until light goes off and the fan timeout cycle begins or restarts so amounts to the same end result:-)

Refresh the iPad network list, Mark. It could be that you’re logged in on that iPad with a user that doesn’t have admin rights (to edit the network configuration). If that is the case, ‘forget’ the network and then log back in with an admin account.

That’s not a bad idea and it’ll also give me an excuse to make more videos. I can already think of things like porch lights, entrance lights and kitchen bench lighting.

Thank you! I’m happy to hear that people find the videos useful.

Thanks, Patrick!

You should just be able to duplicate the the two EnOcean switches and out one at each end of the room. If you find that means you’re still having to press the same button twice, create on and off buttons for each switch and disable the Use Toggle option. I’ve not forgotten about the bathroom fan video for you - just been really busy.

The CBU-TED can't be used for on/off switching because of the dimming curve. Instead use something like a REL-240 from Liga Air. That'll do the job and they also have a very small form-factor. Alternatively, add a 230VAC relay to a CBU-ASD. That'll do exactly the same job.

@@CasamBee Thanks for your prompt reply as I need to order a device asap. What about if the default dimmer range is set to 100% - meaning full on? Thanks. (I also have a spare TED so could try)

@@marktime61 I wouldn't risk it... Even if you could alter the dimming curve of the TED to go from 0 - 100% as quickly as possible, there's still that 'ramp up' to 100% and ramp down to 0% (even if it's a really short time). Much safer to go with a true relay. The TED designer once told me that it's the fade-down from 100 to 0 which is problematic if trying to use a TED to switch 230VAC (rather than the fade from 0 to 100, as most people would suspect).

@@CasamBee Understood and thanks

@@CasamBee Apologies but another related question. I have used EnOcean switches successfully for on/off dimmer etc and there are many modes/function under the Casambi App as to the action taken by these Switches. I wondered if you know which type/mode would best replicate a push to make switch as the bathroom fan scenario would normally take power (via light switch or spring back switch) and then after power removed the fan would continue on a timer/timeout within the fan. An ordinary Sw function would be in the wrong state after the timeout. Perhaps an EnOcean Sw mode or a Casambi App timer could work?…. Thanks again

I suspect you've already got this working, but in case you're interested I've now answered this in more detail in this new video: th-cam.com/video/NvBLrU-LLNo/w-d-xo.html

Sure! You can write the list here. But the list needs to contain the types of LED drivers which your lights use.

@@CasamBee 1. Recessed spotlight, LED chip 15W,1375lm 2. Recessed Laser Blade Spot Light, LED 10W,925lm 3. Surface Mounted Spot light, LED 2x3W ,83lm/W 4. Recessed spotlight, LED chip 15W,1390lm 5. Recessed spotlight, LED chip 15W,1375lm 6. Recessed spotlight, LED chip 15W,1375lm 7. Linear light, LED 10W 8. Recessed Spot Light, LED chip 7W,83lm/W 9. Surface Mounted Spot Light, LED chip 7W 10. Recessed down light, LED 24W 11. LED Inground Light, 1x2W, 240V 12. LED Inground Light, 8W, 240V 13. Recessed Underwater Spot Light, LED 3x2W 14. Wall Mounting Landscape Light, 1x4.5W, 240V 15. Projector Light, LED 8W, 220V 16. **All lights above NON-DIM driver .. 17. LED chip, 9.6W, 24V,TRIDONIC LED Driver 100W, 24V 18. LED chip, 9.6W , 24V,TRIDONIC 80 LED Driver 100W, 24V 19. LED chip, 4.8W, 24V,TRIDONIC LED Driver 60W, 24V 20. LED SMD, 48V, IP67, side bend, 6w,40W, 48V AC-DC Single output LED driver Mix mode (CV+CC) with built-in PFC; Output 48Vdc at 5A

@@fareedalshihab5177 For lights 1 - 15 (which aren't dimmable), you'll need to use a relay switch to turn them on/off. There are several of these to choose from on the Casambi website. Personally, I recommend the Liga.Air models as they have a very small form-factor. 17 - 19, if those Tridonic drivers are dimmable, they're likely to use DALI control. So in that case you can use the CBU-ASD or CBU-A2D. Both do the same job but have different form-factors, so see what suits you (or your electrician). Note that the CBU-A2D is the newer of the two devices. 20. That looks like an LED driver which can control tuneable white lighting. Against, I'd suspect that the LED driver sis DALI controlled so you can use the ASD or A2D, as mentioned above. But you need to get more details from the manufacturer to confirm the LED driver's control method. Hope this all helps!

@@CasamBee Thank you for the information, was very informative.. For the lights, from 1-15, what if I wanted them to be dimmable, do i need a separate driver for each, or is there a driver or a specific device from casambi

@@fareedalshihab5177 it depends… if the lights are standard 220VAC dimmable lamps then you can just use a CBU-TED. I’d recommend no more than three lamps per TED, but Casambi claim the amount is not limited and instead based on the inrush current.

Unfortunately not. It’s designed specifically for Amazon Alexa.

Yes, a DALI PSU and a CBU-DCS would do the same thing. It's just the purchase cost of the extra device to consider... FYI: don't ever connect a DALI PSU to an A2D or ASD, as it will damage the Casambi sevices.

Yeah, I've been aware of the Homebridge option for quite some time. Bear in mind that Casambi API access will no longer be free from the 1st July 2022 onwards, though.

@@CasamBee Yes I grumbled as a domestic user when I heard but was semi assured they would not close the door on us. Seems odd when so many are going open and using thread and matter..

It’s because Casambi’s focus is on commercial installations, not residential homes. But, of course, their devices have naturally crept into the consumer market via online resellers - it was unavoidable. I’ve been meaning to do a ‘part 2’ of this video but I just haven’t got round to it yet. But, like you said, it requires an extra solution to make it work: a device called a X-Moment, and they’re not cheap…

@@CasamBee I did not know that! Honestly I rather blame the installers kind of misleading us in this aspect. I already looked at the x-moment, it's a possibility, but switching to a different system like Hue seems cheaper. I only have 4 separate light fixtures with casambi, so not that much lights to replace. Thanks for your input though. I'm simply disappointed because of it and I was looking for a way to dim the lights as well via voice commands.

It depends on what type of light(s) you want to control. But, in general, it's one device per light load. Feel free ask ask as many questions as you like via TH-cam. I will reply - even if it takes a few days.

Yes, DALI DT8 is supported for the CBU-DCS, CBU-ASD and CBU-A2D. There are multiple TW fixture profiles available for all three of those devices. Just look for the profiles names which include 'DT8' and 'TW'.

You probably manually controlled the light(s) being controlled by that timer. So I doubt it was the timer, it'll have been manual control.

@@CasamBee Nope. Set timer in advance (future) and then not touched the App/phone at all. Its on its own currently as testing. Other Luminaires will become live when the building project is finished (home renovations and new kitchen)..

@@marktime61 are your devices losing power? If they lose power, then they also lose network time which would clear the network time. Also remember that a timer should be refreshed after it’s been created ( or wait until its start time arrives in the future. It’s a bit hard to advise anything else without seeing your network configuration (which I can’t)

@@CasamBee Thanks I am in touch with Casambi support and sent them my config. Initially they cant see anything wrong with it but my network is not on permanently due to building works so I will re-evaluate when its all up and running. One other Q you might be able to comment on is what does the red badge (circle) indicate in the App? When I open it there is nothing obvious and the badge disappears…. Think it has a “1” in it.. thanks

@@marktime61 id all of your devices lose power then they lose network time and your timers won’t work. The red circle over the Casambi app icon is telling you the network(s) in your app have recently had a configuration change. …this is presuming I’ve understood which red circle you’re referring to.

Any permanently-powered device acts as a repeater. So you don’t have to buy ready-made repeaters.

All network configuration (including timers) are stored on each individual device within the network. However, if a device loses power or its connection to the rest of the mesh network then it will lose network time and the timer will not work correctly. Use the All Luminaries button on the Luninaires page to check if you have an island issue. You have an island issue if the all luminaires button does bot turn off/on all devices in your network.

The phone location is irrelevant unless you’re using it as a gateway device - in which case it must be connected via bluetooth to the network.

From my experience, people tend to use DALI drivers for larger LED lights rather than LED strip. For LED strip, a PWM4 is probably the cheaper option. Yes, the PWM4 PSU voltage will need to match the LED strip’s voltage and you also need to make sure that the PSU will offer enough amps for the lengths of LED strip(s) you’ll use. Yes, you can use four strips with a single PMW4 but, again, make sure your PSU can cope. A single PMW4 device will be visible in the Casambi app but you can adjust each of the four channels individually.

All you need to do now is install the Casambi app. Then create a network, pair the devices and configure them as you want.

You mentioned extern relay do I need that or

@@MrHazaraak47 only if you intend to control a 1-10V controlled LED driver.

Casambi-enabled bulb: they usually offer tuneable white lighting but weaker signal range. CBU-TED: usually offer a better signal range but no TW. A CBU-TED and Ikea’s dim-to-warm bulbs could give you a slightly similar feeling.

It can be used on both, but you first need to share out your network (using the device you used to create the network).

That’s right. Casambi devices are designed to be powered on 24-hours/day. And, as you said, any devices which are powered off will still allow the remaining devices in the network to be controlled - but only as long as they are all within range of each other! If even one device is powered on but can’t communicate with the mesh network then you will create an island issue and communication will not work properly. Luminaries generally power up and connect to the mesh network within a second (if not even quicker). From my experience, sensors can take up to around ten seconds to power up and notify the network, depending in the manufacturer.

@@CasamBee Thanks for your extensive explanation. Whilst I can and will troll through the Casambi website and its partners, I am wondering if there is a single device that supplies power (12/24v) for Led strips that also contains dimming (Driver/Dimmer)? Or if this is always a 2 box scenario? (Driver + Dimmer). Your thoughts appreciated. Thx

@@marktime61 yeah, there are plenty of Casambi-enabled LED drivers available - meaning the Casambi module has been built into the LED driver’s PCB. Have a look at the Casambi website for lots of examples, then find a reseller near you.

@@CasamBee any that contain dimming as well as drivers? Tks

@@marktime61 yes, they’re all dimmable drivers. (Because the Casambi dimming module is built into them).

Apologies! This one seemed to have slipped through the net and I only just noticed it now as I'm about to make new videos. In short, yes, it non-voltage, just a closed-contact.

An element could be a couple if things. For example, in the case of a 2-channel luminaire, each channel could be considered an element. And a relay, or switch within a luminaire, can also be considered an element.

@@CasamBee So its the lowest form of control in the hierarchy? One Luminaire may have one or more elements for example?

@@marktime61 An element isn’t considered a separate part of the control hierarchy, it’s the device (which the element belongs to) which is controlled by the control hierarchy. Yes, one luminaire/device may have more than one element. For example, a 2-way relay means two elements.

Yes, you can have multiple Xpress switches assigned to the same network. They can then control anything within the network - even two Xpress switches controlling the same luminaires (in a case where you may want to duplicate the switch at opposite ends of the same room. They won’t interfere with each other because they’re assigned different Unit IDs.

@@CasamBee Thanks very helpful

Thanks!

Thanks! The most basic option is a 230VAC relay attached to a CBU-ASD. But there are now many different types of relays made by Casambi's partners. You can see the various devices here: casambi.com/ecosystem/ Just search through the text for 'relay' and you'll find them. ...cost-effectiveness is a completely different matter, though ;)

You can find your local Sales partner from the list here: casambi.com/contact/

I’m not aware of any 8-button Casambi switches. I believe one or two companies have created 6-input button interfaces but not actual wall switches.

Hi! You're right, the wattage of the LED driver is irrelevant as the Casambi device is just controlling it. You could use two Casambi devices if you like, but you could also use a single CBU-A2D (AC powered) or a CBU-ASR (12-24VDC powered). Both allow 2ch 0-10V control. It really boils down to how you'd like to control them. If you would like separate icons for each LED driver in the Casambi app, then go with two Casambi devices. If you're ok with both 0-10V channels appearing under the same icon then just use a single device. You could always start with a single device anyway and buy a second if you feel you might get more flexibility that way.

Press buttons 1 and 3 on the Xpress switch at the same time (that should wake it up). Then quickly go to MORE > NEARBY DEVICES within the Casambi app, select the Xpress switch and then choose UNPAIR DEVICE. It'll then ask you to press a button to confirm. Then it should be un-paired.

@@CasamBee Thanks! After asking I tried one last time - clicked Unpair -> Start -> hold 1 and 3 and then a magic happened - saw a moving bar, clicked a single button and it unpaired. Clicking both buttons and going to unpair couldn't detect any actions I've tried.. Almost drove me crazy :)

what is the luminare capacity for 1 network

Yes, it's technically possible. But it takes quite a long explanation and actually installing it isn't quite as easy as it seems. Give me a few days and I'll make a new video about this.

@@jumadirosidi8421 Classic: 127, Evolution: 250

@@CasamBee ok we will wait, and hope soon, thank you

@@jumadirosidi8421 I've now made a video on this topic. It's Tutorial 17 if you want to watch it. Sorry it took so long!