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Thanks for the comment. Waiting for flight to the mountains.

Me too. Unfortunately, I have never owned or tried that lens

Thanks for your comment

Maybe, but why when its so good for film. I my opinion the Nikon D100 is about this camera in a digital version. And that is a wonderful camera

No but for consistency reasons my Series on 5D cameras should all be done using the same lens

Yes, but it vignettes a bit at boths ends of the focal range, and autofocus isn’t reliable

@@key2adventure959 thank 😄🙂

My X1D mk II works decently with the newest update, version 8 I believe. Though some lenses still refuse to autofocus

Not much I can give, as the lens came with this foot. 300 f2.8 sounds great

Thanks for your comment. Good point you are making. I'll consider that

Disappeared ? I don't have either the 25v or the 55v. My Hasselblads are 28p, 45p, and 90v.

Thanks for your comment, but why is that? I think better of set 3 of the two with the Sony ZV-1 as I prefer - marginally - the Nikon setup for the Canon, but you might have some input, I haven't thought of.

@@key2adventure I think the Canon EF 70-200 f2.8 zoom is better than the Sigma 28-200

@@sangliersepromene Oh yes it is, but it's also much heavier. On the analog camera the Sigma performs very well, and likewise on the crop sensor camera. Where you really notice the difference is on the Hasselblad, where the Sigma seems dated. The Canon is almost sharp enough for the Hasselblad, though not quite to the corners, but I can do a bit of cropping in post. You are perfectly right, the Canon setup is technically the best. Thanks for the input.

Actually, I am testing out some Olympus cameras, and I'm impressed with the results, but I'm still not ready to take them with me on an important trip. Thanks anyway for your suggestion.

Well thanks but that's not sufficient. I want sublime images from some of the gear, and some of the other gear is preparing me for later gear reviews. So one camera, and one that I have already reviewed is not an option.

@@key2adventure Ah, well that’s a whole different scenario if you need to incorporate cameras for the channel. Good luck whatever you decide 👍

Thanks for your comment. It's a commercial trek on which I'm the leader. That means that all personal stuff is carried by others, and we only carry our personal gear, therefore camera and lenses are not a big problem, although there are limits to that. There's no climbing gear for a trekking trip except for some crampons for the glacial traverse of Cho La. I am semi professional photographer, therefore I need some more gear. I do gear reviews (mostly old stuff except the Hasselblads), and bring some more gear for that. And I do a lot of different styles of photography, therefore one or two lenses rarely suffice. So I guess you have no suggestions relating to my sets, just want me slim down. When I climbed on Everest and Cho Oyu (8202 meters) some years ago, I did exactly that, but that was also an extreme challenge. On Everest a Fujifilm X-E2 and one lens and on Cho Oyu even lighter with my Fujifilm X-Q2. That was for the climb itself, in basecamp I had my best camera at the time a Canon 5D mark III with three lenses: 17-40mm, 70-200mm, and a portrait lens, an 85mm f1.8. So the size of equipment depends much on the challenge, but for easier trips (for me that is) like this years trek, I want a diverse set of gear for all kinds of photography.

​@@key2adventure I understand. Thanks for the detailed explaination. I am glad, you are considering the X2D for your trip. I am considering buying one for portraiture photos myself. I think this is a spectacular camera. Have a nice and safe trip.

@@andreasstolten9179 thanks again for your comment. The X2D is an incredible camera, I shoot lots of portraits when travelling, and I love the look of the files coming from this camera. They are so good I rarely do anything to them in post, and that is a big thing for me. I like photography, not the work behind the computer screen.

Thanks for your comment. I wont be taking both the Hasselblad and a full frame digital, that would make too much conflict in most situations. What to use Hassel or Full Frame? It is a much easier choice with something simpler. For the most demanding shots, always Hasselblad and a suitable lens, for something faster moving and not so demanding, one of the crop sensor solutions.

Well that is of course part of the package otherwise I wouldn't be using those F mount lenses on my Hasselblad. Have you seen some of my reviews of older lenses including Nikon lenses? There I present my adapters, of which I have a lot for different camera systems. I even made a video on my adapter setup, you can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/iIrtNQkeEV0/w-d-xo.html

I wont be taking both Hasselblad and Nikon DSLR. The Nikon 1 V1 is mirrorless. I shoot a lot of "crazy" photography. Some of my most wanted images come from pinhole cameras, some even home build cameras. On my recent photography exhibition visitors flocked around one of my images shot with a tin can camera. That's why I usually also on my travels carry some kind of pinhole camera.

Hah, yes I understand your comment. But then I guess you haven't followed my channel, cause I shoot a lot of "crazy" photography. Some of my most wanted images come from pinhole cameras, some even home build cameras. On my recent photography exhibition visitors flocked around one of my images shot with a tin can camera. That's why I usually also on my travels carry some kind of pinhole camera. Definitely not for weight, but it's good that it doesn't add much weight to my already heavy gear.

Well we're not climbing anything. When I was on Everest and Cho Oyu some years ago, I took a Fujifilm X-E2 with one lens on the mountain, but for the trip to basecamp I took a more substantial gear consisting of my then best camera, the Canon 5D mark III with three lenses, a 17-40mm, a 70-200mm, and for portraits an 85mm f1.8. Climbing I go light, sometimes even with as little as the Fujifilm XQ2, but trekking with most of my stuff transported by others, I take a full gear for every kind of photography, and also carry some stuff for later gear reviews.

That's your opinion. Many professionals would disagree as results show something different. I find this a much better camera than both the 5D mark III and IV, both cameras that I have used extensively over period of years. It's true that dynamic range isn't the best, but I find that not very often need more than what this camera gives. Some are completely obsessed with dynamic range, I'm not, I even love the images from old CCD based sensors although their dynamic range was much less than the newer CMOS. In my opinion there's so much more to good image quality than dynamic range. But if you constantly shoot in conditions that require high DR, then I can understand you.

Thanks for you comment. Some difficult questions for a non-native english speaker, but I'll try. The very long papers are cut with a very sharp hobby knife based on razor blades, so manually cut with very much precision going into it. The prints are mounted onto some around 5-6 mm thich boards made for the purpose. They have middle foam material and a cardboard glued to it on both sides. Thank makes them very stiff and light as I demonstrated in the video holding it at one end with one hand. Hope that answers your question. Selv tak 🙂

Tusind tak 🙏

De nada.

That was a bargain 🙂Yes it's only good for photos, not worth anything in video mode.

Thanks for your comment.

Definitely, if you like the results mirror lenses can give, I worth trying it. I find some of the images I get are really pleasing especially with that fabric like structure in the unsharp background.

Wow, you have tried a lot 🙂 I must admit, that if I search ultimate image quality I don't use the RX10, but rather a full frame or even medium format camera. But when versatility is important, RX10 is the answer in my case.

As far as I know it's only the bump up in shutter speed from 1/1000 to 1/2000 second.

Yes, as the lens has no shutter, you have to use electronic shutter. I do that with all adapted lenses, except lenses from the Hasselblad H system (HC and HCD lenses) that have their own shutter and have electronic communication through a Hasselblad made adapter.

Thank you for your answer Me too x2d, I also want to try old lenses. Which mount do you use for the canon

@@СтаниславРайков-в8й I suppose you mean adapter? I use a Novoflex FD to XCD adapter.

@@key2adventure Thank you

Well sort of. If you watched the previous episode, using the 3.2 mpx A70, I printed A4 from an image from that camera. And the image quality was quite sufficient. Magazines don't print images much larger than that, so I actually think 4 mpx would still do the job today. But why then have more megapixel today? There are lots of good reasons among others in order to print even larger. At my recent exhibition I had som A1 to A0 prints, then it's nice to have more resolution. And to be more flexible in post processing, and in order to be able to crop, more megapixels really helps. But as I try to show with this series of videos, you can actually make really good images with low megapixel cameras - if you are not having issues like I did with the A80. Thanks for your comment 🙂

@@key2adventure Thanks for responding. When I said 'magazine quality' I did only mean A4 size. That megapixel count was also good enough for newspapers, flyers, posters etc. I understand your point regarding higher megapixel counts for exhibition quality prints of course. I'm led to understand that's why, (in the early days of digital) silver halide photographic prints were still preferred for their extra detail, especially so in large format.(P.S. - do you have a website where I may see some of your work?)

@@sputumtube Printing for exhibition use, you also has to consider viewing distance. With your nose right up against the image, you need really high resolution if the grain (analog film) or digital noise (digital cameras) shouldn't be seen or part of your image, but if the image is so large it should be viewed from a distance, you might get away with much lower resolution, you might even use the old 3 to 5 megapixel camera for an A2 image. At my recent exhibition a had an A3+ image printed from a 6 megapixel camera, and my visitors thought it was one of the most interesting images. Yes, I have a website for my photography, you find it at www.k2-photography.dk and under gallery, you'll find just a bit of images, but also in other articles on that site, there are more images.

You might be right, I just don't know if capacitator failure would result in this kind of issue. The most odd thing was, that the A70 recovered if I left it without batteries for a couple of hours.

Thanks for your comment. I do agree, and I also had some of these when they were new. This time though I bought this box of old outdated cameras, just to see if it was still possible to make decent images with these. They A70 proved to do just that, whereas this newer A80 failed me due to that strange error. Got some fun images anyway 🙂

V lenses are no problem, once as you say, you have added the focal length to the stabilisation screen. I have also since this video gotten it to work with the electronically coupled HC lenses.

That's good news. I thought you were missing something. How do you find the CF lenses with the electronic shutter ? I'm using 14 bit to halve the sensor exposure. Are you using 16 bit ?

@@Super.Quasar I haven't shot very much with lenses from the V system, and I have only used 16 bit. I should definitely try some more with 14 bit, and I should also do that when I use other vintage lenses.

The expected shutter life of the 1000D is 100,000 - but you actually can't know. Some might survive 250,000 or more, but some unlucky owners only see 50,000 before it dies. I wouldn't buy a 1000D with more than 10-15,000 actuations. For more professional models it is a quite different story. The 1DX has an expected life of 300,000 but mine has done more than a million, and is still clicking happily away.

Thanks for your comment. Sorry about your camera.

Thank you very much. I hope you find one at a reasonable price. I love my XQ2 and it's always in my daily backpack that I use where ever I go.

As you use electronic shutter, it is not possible with these cameras.

Thanks for your comment. I have also used a Mamiya 645 lens, the "normal" 80mm f2.8 on my X1D and X2D, and even that lens, probably the cheapest lens in the Mamiya 645 line-up, did provide very good image quality. In the next episode, that I'm shooting at the moment, the lenses are not high in image quality, but they provide a look that's impossible to get with native Hasselblad glass. But it is always nice there are also vintage lenses that give good IQ.

@@key2adventure I agree. I have a 55mm/2.8, 80mm/1.9, 110mm/2.8 and they are great.

@@What_Other_Hobbies Oh yes, I owned the 80mm f1.9 years ago, what a stunning lens.

You can’t use leaf shutter, electronic shutter is the way to go, although it narrows the usability

@@key2adventure959 Thank you!!

You have to use the electronic shutter when using all lenses which arnt leaf shutter such as Canons etc.

Whether you can adapt a lens to another system primarily depend on one factor, is the flange distance of the system of the lens so much larger that there is room for an adapter. If you look at this information en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance you'll see that Canon RF is only 2mm larger than Hasselblad XCD. That's make it very difficult to make an adapter. Canon EF lenses have much larger flange distance, therefore there are EF to Hasselblad X adapter available. I use a EF 100-400 mm zoom, it vignettes a bit, but it can be used on the Hasselblad. You can find my review on youtube here: th-cam.com/video/gGtPEp6FoQw/w-d-xo.html

@@key2adventure Thank you.. Do you happen to know if there are any third party long telephoto lens that can be used with or without adaptor with X2D?

@@jaekim5397 I don't know any, that mount directly.

@@key2adventure Thanks.. Live in UK?

@@jaekim5397 No, I live in Denmark.

Thanks for your comment. I don't have that many V lenses (I still use them on my Hasselblad 500C/M), but I have tried the 80mm, 150mm, and the 250mm. I find them a bit front heavy and I don't like the pull on the X2D body. I guess the 500mm has a tripod foot, that would help a lot. When I use the Canon 200mm in this review, I'm very happy it has a tripod foot, as this is also a very front heavy system. I would like to get the Hasselblad HC 300mm, which also has a tripod socket, but it's too expensive.

Techart TCX-01 with firmware version 8 works with all of my EF lenses, but with regards to autofocus on far from all. I have consistent results with 40mm f2.8 and a few others. But I can control aperture on all of them. Remember to press the silver button as you mount the adapter. That resets it, and if I don't do that, sometimes the lens is not recognized.

Thanks for your comment. On the Hasselblad it works like a 13.5mm f3.2 lens - so very, very wide.

No live histogram, only after shooting when viewing images.